- Thread starter
- #41
Shooting for 5" front (may get cut to 4" due to fenders, or raise body an inch), probably a little more rear. How much were you able to squeeze out?
Tube/Hybrid Stretched 40 Frame and Suspension Design - Advice/Comments?
- Thread starter DirtSniffer
- Start date
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I have about 4.5" in the front with 16's, and about 4.5" in the rear with 12"s.
I'm also pretty low for a 40 on 37"s, about the same height as a 2.5" lift on 33"s. Maybe a little higher.
- Thread starter
- #43
When you get a chance could you please measure your frame height in the middle? I'll probably end up pretty close to you. Maybe 14" front and 14/12" rear would be the way to go for me. IIRC you were saying the 16" was getting a bit slinky in the front. Which reminds me, need to see how I'd fit an antirock bar in the front.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Talk about long threads...but I wanted to make sure you knew of this one
How's my numbers?
Is the brake and drive bias correct here? I always assumed it was in %. Wouldn't 0.5 not be 50%? Or am I missing something?
irate4x4.com
This is the end, I read it from the beginning when I started my suspension, probably twice. Very extremely mucho helpful dude in there that really knows his stuff. Of course, just IMO again.
I'm 12" front and 14" rear, with planned 5" up on both. That's measuring the chrome, which is how Accutune told me how to do it.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Thanks for posting that, I'm really happy to hear how yours drives with your anti's where they are. I'm similar all the way around and have been worried about my antis but had to move forward.
- Thread starter
- #46
Yes, I've read through some but need to sit down and go through it more. Probably around 2 am tonight lol. I'll post mine once I feel I'm getting close.Talk about long threads...but I wanted to make sure you knew of this one
How's my numbers?
Is the brake and drive bias correct here? I always assumed it was in %. Wouldn't 0.5 not be 50%? Or am I missing something?
This is the end, I read it from the beginning when I started my suspension, probably twice. Very extremely mucho helpful dude in there that really knows his stuff. Of course, just IMO again.
I'm 12" front and 14" rear, with planned 5" up on both. That's measuring the chrome, which is how Accutune told me how to do it.
14" 12" is a very good combo that gives nice articulation. I wish I went with 14"s in the front. I'll measure it when I get it on concrete again.
Solid tech
- Thread starter
- #49
Bit of link development. I am going off the general rules of axle link separation = ~25% of tire diameter, and top link length ~75% of bottom links. I think I will be running a CV rear driveshaft, so I have the rear diff pointing up about 10* to try and keep it out of harms way which points it pretty close to the T-case output. I have done the same for the front, but I am playing with the idea of using a fixed driveshaft carrier about 1 foot forward of the front output to avoid having to cut a notch in the belly plate. May not be worth it, just playing around right now. I have determined that unless I am ok narrowing the front axle bottom link mounts, I will need to widen my WMS to 66" to keep full steering lock angle as the tires will hit the links if narrower (Assuming about a 5" scrub radius?) . It would probably be fine to narrow the front bottom axle mounts have a lower convergence (about 16* vs 22*) for the front lowers as it is a 3 link and the panhard will be dealing with most of the lateral force. I also think I need to widen the top frame mounts for the rear, not enough convergence. may slide that tube section forward and mount it underneath as I mentioned earlier and forego the adjustable bracket. I will say, its nice doing this in CAD (Albeit a bit crudely) vs doing this IRL and having to redo everything multiple times over.
Also, might be getting a bit ahead of myself, but I think I might be able to squeeze a decent sized (about 18 gallons as shown), but funky looking fuel tank between the rear top links.
Also, might be getting a bit ahead of myself, but I think I might be able to squeeze a decent sized (about 18 gallons as shown), but funky looking fuel tank between the rear top links.
What axle housing are you planning on using ?
- Thread starter
- #51
Right now looking at Ruff Stuff 9.5 housings and their 80 knuckles.
And with a offset rear you will run into issue with the links hitting the driveline
- Thread starter
- #53
clearance is tight but looks like I should be fine, my lower frame mounts have some separation which helps with that.
Ok so take into account that the Diffs on the fabricated housing are bigger . it will be very difficult to get a 66 wms to work
unless you 4 link the front
unless you 4 link the front
Its when you flex it it will hit I have one like that That is why i went centered diff on my Build and i never had a issue with my Driveline like / to my orion but i just went to a Atlas
The front diff will almost be centered to have clearance I have Diamonds on mine but also have Ruffstuff for the Blue 40 i am building basically the same thing
As you can see there is not a lot of room and any narrower would be tuff . Also you can see where the diff sits and where the frame is
- Thread starter
- #58
The diffs I have modeled should be pretty close to the ruff stuff diffs, they are indeed larger than a regular toyota 9.5 especially on the sides. I am not using a stock 40 frame, I have a lot more clearance and can lift to full stuff no problem and the driveshaft looks fine at full compression and droop right now.
- Thread starter
- #59
Here's what the front diff looks like at full stuff. Ignore the fan interference.
lol show me in real world
