SoCalJohn- you will not get anywhere with us if you do not answer Jon's question.
Truck won't REstart.
- Thread starter SoCalJohn
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
ouch,,,, I will take the whipping. The CE light did not come on when the key was in the on position, before cranking. Repeated the same test at work this morning, same results...No CE light.
No CE light = EFI Relay
but are you saying there is no CE light and it cranks?
but are you saying there is no CE light and it cranks?
- Thread starter
- #24
In the no start situation after I turn the engine off, I place the key back to "ON" and there is not CE Light, like with a normal start up. Yes, the starter will crank, but no spark is jumping between the spark plug wire and the ground. And to review, all goes back to normal usually within 5 minutes, and the truck starts normally.
EFI was switched out, I have two good ones.
Little more to it than that: No CEL = EFI circuit.
SoCalJohn, time to read the info in the first link in the first reply in this thread.
More:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/167634-92-80-spinny-no-starty.html
See especially post #6.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/167634-92-80-spinny-no-starty.html
See especially post #6.
With the EFI circuit problem you will never get spark. The ecu will not allow it. I had same problem, you can replace relay and problem will continue. You have to fix the wire going into box that holds EFI relay. Trust me I know, I replaced igniter, distributor just to find this out later that it was the EFI relay problem and nothing wrong with other parts. Listen to these guys on mud they know what there talking about.
Thanks for answering. Didn't mean to come off as a douche, but without that little tidbit it's hard to diagnose.
Some time ago I had compiled a bunch of info on this circuit and put it all on my web site. Have a look here:
http://gclcny.com/jh/images/Strife/EFIdiag.pdf
The majority of this info is correct AFAIK. There are a few sore points that I really haven't put any effort into sorting out, mostly associated with ECU logic switching. There should be enough info here to get you pointed in the right direction.
Some time ago I had compiled a bunch of info on this circuit and put it all on my web site. Have a look here:
http://gclcny.com/jh/images/Strife/EFIdiag.pdf
The majority of this info is correct AFAIK. There are a few sore points that I really haven't put any effort into sorting out, mostly associated with ECU logic switching. There should be enough info here to get you pointed in the right direction.
Cranking and firing are 2 different circuts. Starter circuit runs the starter. The truck will crank with the EFI relay on the workbench.
The EFI circuit, ECU, distributor, igniter and coil run the spark.
sorry, by "cranks" I meant "starts," and by efi "relay" really meant circuit. I realized the second one after I typed it but got pulled away before I could edit. first mistake was just the rare southernism that slips out.
- Thread starter
- #31
Thank You, Thank You, I now have someone who will help me with checking the voltage between the Fusable Link and over to EFI area, following step by step on as Jon Held and CJF provided. I really started digging around with this fusible link wire at the battery, and underneath appears to have heat burns on the outside of the wire covering, turning brown. Found a small crack in wire covering as well, with exposed wiring, but no corrosion. Will move on to EFI curcuit as well I will update later.
Replace the fusible links. All 3 come as a kit from Toyota for $12. They do fail after years of vibration and heat.
LOL...
OK fine, it was a slow day today. I trimmed and pasted all 4 of the engine control pages together and printed it out on 11x14" paper. I re-wrote the first paragraph on my diagnostic pdf. and touched up a picture.
It's alot easier to see when it's all on one page in front of you. Should have done this years ago.
- Thread starter
- #36
Here it goes, Tested voltage from "big philips screw head" to Fusible Link after no start situation. 12 Volts was going through even though CEL was not on. Removed EFI relay and checked coil voltage was present at 11.5V . Could not get engine to start with a jumper around the fusible link.
The EFI relay was hot to touch (new one) but the EFI relay would not work until it cooled down. The Relay was ohm out at 81 ohms. Tested spare relay at 74 ohms. Installed spare relay (old one) and it started. Is somthing causing this relay to overheat, like the manifold thus, a no start situation? By the way I haven't heard the monifold fan come on in a couple years, would this cause to much heat in this area.
Eeither way, I will pick up the fusible link kit tomorrow, since it is in questionable condition. And will again switch my EFI relay with my spare when I get home to see if it starts immediately.
The EFI relay was hot to touch (new one) but the EFI relay would not work until it cooled down. The Relay was ohm out at 81 ohms. Tested spare relay at 74 ohms. Installed spare relay (old one) and it started. Is somthing causing this relay to overheat, like the manifold thus, a no start situation? By the way I haven't heard the monifold fan come on in a couple years, would this cause to much heat in this area.
Eeither way, I will pick up the fusible link kit tomorrow, since it is in questionable condition. And will again switch my EFI relay with my spare when I get home to see if it starts immediately.
Follow the diagnostic flow in my description. If you're getting +12 to the fusebox then move on to monitoring pin 8 (+B) on the check connector by the firewall. This will give you an accurate reading of the state of the EFI relay as you whack it. I would replace the fusible links anyway as basic PM.
The relay gets hot due to the heat of the manifold and the load on the circuit. On mine there were several bad and corroding crimps in the fusebox. I replaced them all with high temperature wire with soldered connections. Yours may need to be attended to as well.
You can try jumping pins 2-4 on the EFI relay socket with spade connectors from Radio Snack. This will bypass the relay but if the connectors in the fusebox are toast then you're back to square one.
Again, if the CE light is not on this truck WILL NOT FIRE. No need to crank the starter.
The relay gets hot due to the heat of the manifold and the load on the circuit. On mine there were several bad and corroding crimps in the fusebox. I replaced them all with high temperature wire with soldered connections. Yours may need to be attended to as well.
You can try jumping pins 2-4 on the EFI relay socket with spade connectors from Radio Snack. This will bypass the relay but if the connectors in the fusebox are toast then you're back to square one.
Again, if the CE light is not on this truck WILL NOT FIRE. No need to crank the starter.
Please describe EXACTLY how you tested. THe above doesn't sound right to me. If you put one lead of the meter on the fusible link and the other on the phillips head terminal in the fusebox and read 12 volts then the fusible link is open.
Stick the ground lead of the meter on the neg battery terminal and test for 12VDC in the fusebox and on pin 8.
The logic side (coil) of the relay comes from the ECU, not the EFI fuse. The load side (contactor points) of the relay comes from the fuse.
- Thread starter
- #40
johheld, i will verify the voltage test method with my friend to be sure i described it correctly or if it needs to be redone tomorrow.
Replaced fusible link and also new positive battery clamp. Examined the pins and below wires and found no corrosion what so ever and could not see any damaged wires, below.
CJF/johnheld, Question on manifold, does this suppose to come on automatically all the time or is controlled by a thermostat . Is it linked to a fuse? I observed the fan connected below the tube with a small electric motor sticking out of the side. How can I test this? Is it getting hot due the manifold fan not functioning and not blowing air onto the engine to cool it? Thanks again for your time and patience,
Replaced fusible link and also new positive battery clamp. Examined the pins and below wires and found no corrosion what so ever and could not see any damaged wires, below.
CJF/johnheld, Question on manifold, does this suppose to come on automatically all the time or is controlled by a thermostat . Is it linked to a fuse? I observed the fan connected below the tube with a small electric motor sticking out of the side. How can I test this? Is it getting hot due the manifold fan not functioning and not blowing air onto the engine to cool it? Thanks again for your time and patience,
