92 80 Spinny no starty

[SDFJ60JFK]

Hi All

The 80 will not start I have narrowed it down to a no spark condition. What are the most likely problems.

Do I have an ignitor on this truck or is that different from the 60 because of the EFI...

Not sure what direction to go from here.

Thanks

JFK
TLCA 6192
85 FJ 60
92 FJ 80

 

[decavo]

check the fusable links .. the white one i think .. it ruined a whole day for me not to mention a tow shop bill etc...

 

[SDFJ60JFK]

So where is this fusible link located?

JFK
TLCA 6192
85 FJ 60
92 FJ 80

 

[CJF]

check the fusable links .. the white one i think .. it ruined a whole day for me not to mention a tow shop bill etc...

This caused it to crank but not start up?

SDFJ60JFK:

Is the CEL illuminated with the key in the ON position?

Curtis

 

[SDFJ60JFK]

The CEL is off with key in ON position

JFK

 

[jonheld]

If the CEL is off with key in ON position, then no +12 to EFI circuit. Check fusible links off the positive terminal of the battery by looking for +12 on brass screw in underhood fuse box. If no +12 there then fusible link bad. If good then EFI relay/fuse or associated wiring bad. If good then you will see +12 on check connector on firewall on pin B+ (pin 8). If +12 on pin 8 of check connector and no CEL, then possibly faulty ECU.

 

[80jay]

also check your ignition fuse inside the vehicle..

 

[SDFJ60JFK]

So it is now here at the house, the B+ connectoer has .5 volts on it. I cannot locate the specific Ignition fuse because I have no diagram for the fuse box, but all fuses that I can locate lok and test good with the continuity tester.

I have no spark. What else should I be looking for?

John

 

[jonheld]

Please see my last post.

"If good then EFI relay/fuse or associated wiring bad. If good then you will see +12 on check connector on firewall on pin B+ (pin 8).

The EFI relay and fuse is located in the underhood fusebox mounted on the left fender.

 

[SDFJ60JFK]

So if I am uns=derstanding this right If I have +12 at the brass screw under the hood and no voltage at the connector the relay or fuse is bad. IF I remove the fuse with the key on the relay can be heard clicking...would this mean that the realy is good and I should be looking for a wiring problem.....

Is there a way to jump the relay, if iunderstand the schematic on the side of the relay I shold be able to jump the 2 and 4 opins to test....Is that correct??


Jon Held thanks for the info

JFK

 

[Land Speeder]

Don't know what it's worth to you, but the EFI relay is only about $12. I don't know crap about electronics, so to eliminate the relay, I'd go buy one. If it looks like your EFI wiring has never been touched since 92 then I'd think it has never been upgraded. (This is the idiots explanation since I'm not electrical).

I also understand that not all "non crank" issues on the 91-92's are related to the EFI relay.

 

[jonheld]

So if I am uns=derstanding this right If I have +12 at the brass screw under the hood and no voltage at the connector the relay or fuse is bad. IF I remove the fuse with the key on the relay can be heard clicking...would this mean that the realy is good and I should be looking for a wiring problem.....

Is there a way to jump the relay, if iunderstand the schematic on the side of the relay I shold be able to jump the 2 and 4 opins to test....Is that correct??

When you remove the EFI fuse you hear the relay clicking, but the contact points inside may or may not be toast. Try replacing the relay or give the one in there a wiggle and see if the CEL comes on or leave a voltmeter in the B+ terminal in the check connector.

Remember, without +12 on the check connector you're not getting +12 to the ECU.

The EFI relay/fuse wiring has a tendency to become brittle over time from the heat of the exhaust manifold. This has caused woe and strife for many an FJ80 owner. On mine I replaced all the wiring and fuse box contacts.

Pins 2-4 on the EFI relay can be jumped for diagnostics. I drove like this for a while, but remember to pull the jumper when parked or you will drain the battery. Ask me how I know.

 

[SDFJ60JFK]

Jon

Thanks for explaining that for me, I now understand.

I also now know that the relay is toast and I have to get a new one.

Thanks again for the info....

JFK

 

[slow91fj90]

No spark

I too had this issue with my 91 FJ-80, after replacing igniter, distributor, fuel pump and fuses with no avail, I took to local shop, they hooked up a Modis and showed a Toyota TSB about wire going to EFI relay being too small and under heavy load it would fail. Well they upgraded wire to bigger guage and replaced relay. She fire right up. God I wish I knew about mud back then. Seems this is very common on early FJ-80's.

 

[dfmorse]

Here is a layout of fuses. It is for the 1994 80 series, but still might help.

http://homepage.mac.com/dfmorse/FuseChart3.5.1/

...

 

[jonheld]

TSB about wire going to EFI relay being too small and under heavy load it would fail.

FWIW, I don't think the wire is undersized. I had an ammeter on mine with the motor running and that circuit really doesn't draw much. I think the crimp connectors in the fusebox are subject to corrosion and along with the heat from the manifold cooking everything in that area, it makes for a mess. I replaced my stuff with high temperature silicon wire and all connectors are all crimped and soldered.

 

[GXO]

It is undersized...just the section from fuse to relay in the box. The wire to the intake, etc is fine.

Qualified: It is undersized for factory EFI relays. I had heard that there were Napa and other relays that had more metal to them so they wouldn't blow as often. I have upgraded my 3FE when I had it so I ran stock relays with no issue.

 

[jonheld]

It is undersized...just the section from fuse to relay in the box.

Not according to my ammeter. Like I said, I measured the current accross the load side of the EFI relay and it's really not much draw. Granted this was at idle, but the entire EFI system was running.

When I have nothing better to do I'll rig up my meter in the cab and go for a drive.

 

[SDFJ60JFK]

So I am resurrecting my own thread because I have the same problem again. The difference this time is there is voltage at the brass screw but no voltage at the B+ terminal in the diagnostic connector and there is no CEL with the key in the on position, I have fuel pressure at the cold start fitting.

All fuse are good and the relay has been swapped out for 2 different known good ones.

So is this the infamous wiring issue or is my computer toast??

Thanks in advance for any help.

JFK

 

[jonheld]

If you're not seeing +12 at the diag connector, then the EFI relay is not closed or there is a wiring fault. Current path is from the brass terminal, through the 15 amp EFI fuse, through the load side of the EFI relay, through connector EB1, out to the rest of the system.