Tru-Fit Vinyl Replacement

[sunrk]

Re NVH has anyone addressed this with the roof? My 80 has no sunroof, and has the old style cloth suspended with bent wires headlining. I'm sure the roof being a large quite flat(ish) panel probably doesn't have any or much nvh damping though I've never taken the headlining off (since it would probably tear and never be replacable!) to check.

 

[CharlieS]

Re NVH has anyone addressed this with the roof? My 80 has no sunroof, and has the old style cloth suspended with bent wires headlining. I'm sure the roof being a large quite flat(ish) panel probably doesn't have any or much nvh damping though I've never taken the headlining off (since it would probably tear and never be replacable!) to check.

I have to imagine one of the adhesive sound deadening products like Dynamat would work great, but then there is the issue of removal and reinstallation of the headliner...

 

[dirtyboots]

I'm interested to know if the vinyl material is a hard vinyl like from the 70s 80s etc, or softer/ less dense?

I installed a roll of some general purpose mass loaded vinyl and it is pretty rigid, but did install over all of the contours of the floor. Also added a thin layer of close cell foam under to prevent moisture building / getting trapped, then jute on top, then carpet. Thicker than normal and I didn't reinstall the plastic steps in the 2nd row seats. There used to be a website sound deaden show down or something like that had tons of info regarding noise suppression. Instead of installing one layer of adhesive stuff I used the guidance from the website. Who knows which works better.

Sunkirk the adhesive stuff shouldn't be installed in sheets on the roof or exterior side panels. If you want to cut small inch circles and spread them out a few feet apart it does virtually the same job, in that it cuts down on the panel vibration. With a solid adhesive sheet behind the exterior panel can affect the ability of the panel to maintain it's shape vs. every day dents and dings. It's pretty heavy as well. Best practice is to get 3M thinsulate or similar to install in between the headliner and roof. I used some spray adhesive with a 3m thinsulate that had a backing, or cloth side, so the adhesive bonded the roof and backing side of the thinsulate together. Again, who knows if it even works or makes a difference for all the effort and cost. HTH

 

[CharlieS]

I installed a roll of some general purpose mass loaded vinyl and it is pretty rigid, but did install over all of the contours of the floor. Also added a thin layer of close cell foam under to prevent moisture building / getting trapped, then jute on top, then carpet. Thicker than normal and I didn't reinstall the plastic steps in the 2nd row seats. There used to be a website sound deaden show down or something like that had tons of info regarding noise suppression. Instead of installing one layer of adhesive stuff I used the guidance from the website. Who knows which works better.

Sunkirk the adhesive stuff shouldn't be installed in sheets on the roof or exterior side panels. If you want to cut small inch circles and spread them out a few feet apart it does virtually the same job, in that it cuts down on the panel vibration. With a solid adhesive sheet behind the exterior panel can affect the ability of the panel to maintain it's shape vs. every day dents and dings. It's pretty heavy as well. Best practice is to get 3M thinsulate or similar to install in between the headliner and roof. I used some spray adhesive with a 3m thinsulate that had a backing, or cloth side, so the adhesive bonded the roof and backing side of the thinsulate together. Again, who knows if it even works or makes a difference for all the effort and cost. HTH

Out of curiosity, did you go to the effort to remove the factory sound/heat deadner stuff that is adhered to the floor before installing the new? Or did you just go over the top of the factory stuff?

Also, if you had any of the factory carpet padding material stuck to the factory sound deadener, how did you get it off of there?

 

[mudgudgeon]

There used to be a website sound deaden show down or something like that had tons of info regarding noise suppression.

Great suggestion!

The business that created that page is closed. But the webpage is still cached and archived.

Fantastic installation and technical guides and practical information.

Sound Deadener Showdown | Your Vehicle Quiet

Vehicle sound deadening is a process, not a product. Vibration dampers, barriers, acoustic foams and decouplers each play a role. Learn what they do and how to use them. Do it once, do it right, enjoy the results.

web.archive.org

Most links are still working.
Video links are not, but all pictures are still there too.

 

[dirtyboots]

Out of curiosity, did you go to the effort to remove the factory sound/heat deadner stuff that is adhered to the floor before installing the new? Or did you just go over the top of the factory stuff?

Also, if you had any of the factory carpet padding material stuck to the factory sound deadener, how did you get it off of there?

IIRC I didn't get too crazy but I cleaned it up with a wire brush and paint scraper and chipped up / cleaned off what I could. There is a thread where someone took dry ice and was able to cleanly remove all the factory stuff. If it's still bonded I don't know how you can do better than Mr. T, kinda like the paint, if it's in good shape it'll almost always be better than a respray unless you throw down some crazy money. Leaving all that stuff on and with the MLV, CCF, and carpet jute stuff I probably made the interior .18% smaller.

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks!

 

[jht3]

I'm interested to know if the vinyl material is a hard vinyl like from the 70s 80s etc, or softer/ less dense?

i don't know what hard vinyl from the 70s/80s is, but the Tru-fit stuff is heavy duty. i would classify it as hard, durable, and slick. but very easy to clean.

i have it on top of a layer of butyl and foam.

 

[thatcabledude]

i don't know what hard vinyl from the 70s/80s is,

 

[jht3]

View attachment 3325135

haha, ok. i do know what those are. i was thinking some sort of flooring material!

the tru-fit vinyl is MUCH more flexible/pliable than a LP. probably the same thickness however.

 

[sunrk]

Since I recently pulled out the rear full-width bench seat to investigate problems and replace some things I got inspired to 'activate' the long-delayed phase 2 of the flooring work that had phase 1 done about 7 years ago. Phase 1 was much worse due to the horrible decay of the factory underlay and extensive cleanup it required before I applied 3 coats of paint (hardware store cheap gloss white enamel rust-preventive paint with Flood 'Penetrol' added), let that all set up between coats, and then fitted resomat, new underlay and the Tru-fit vinyl over that.

Fortunately when I did phase one I did more floor painting and installation of resomat/underlay/etc. that I'd realised so the second row seat work is pretty easy but it's all about curing time as I'm doing at least two coats of paint and that takes a week for each coat to fully set off since I'm not removing most of the factory bitunemous stuff and the paint solvent interacts with the bitumen (a good thing I think). I took out any of the bitumen that was easy to remove due to age cracking or going really gooey from other contaminents. Otherwise it all stays.



this is yesterday with the area in question fully cleaned up ready for paint of which the first coat went on today.



this is showing how far I'd done with resomat and new underlay with phase 1 - note the back of the front part of the new tru-fit flooring material.

Interior of 80 series toyota landcruiser stripped of seats ready to remove rest of original vinyl - https://www.flickr.com/photos/bondagoo/52954392921/

this shows the remaining part of the original flooring. I'd already cut away the most rear part when I worked on the rear seat latches, etc. a week before.

Interior of 80 series landcruiser stripped of sets ready to remove rest of original factory vinyl - https://www.flickr.com/photos/bondagoo/52954775395/

another view of the same thing after the seats and centre console had all come out.

 

[sunrk]

First coat of hardware store rust-preventive enamel paint has gone in today - because the solvent softens the bitumen of the original sound deadening stuff it takes a fair while to cure but I ran out of paint anyway so have to wait two days to afford another 1L pot (about A$55 at a hardware shop), then I can do the second coat. When i did the front section I did three coats. Total process is at least a month including waiting for three paint coats to fully cure then apply resomat, new underlay, new flooring fit-up and re-fit the seats.

 

[mudgudgeon]

First coat of hardware store rust-preventive enamel paint has gone in today - because the solvent softens the bitumen of the original sound deadening stuff it takes a fair while to cure but I ran out of paint anyway so have to wait two days to afford another 1L pot (about A$55 at a hardware shop), then I can do the second coat. When i did the front section I did three coats. Total process is at least a month including waiting for three paint coats to fully cure then apply resomat, new underlay, new flooring fit-up and re-fit the seats.

Got any pics of the front section.

Is it showing any wear and tear, or holding up ok to use?

 

[CharlieS]

Might be faster to remove the factory bitumen, and then paint.

 

[sunrk]

Only way to get most of the bitumen stuff off would be the dry-ice method. When I did the front section I couldn't get any so just removed any that was loose or busted and left the rest. With the back section I just choose to start doing it as a follow-on from working on the second-row seat issues. Funny how a task can trigger a move into a different (perhaps long delayed) other task.

Plus I figured a bit extra sound deadening at the floor can't hurt.

 

[CharlieS]

I may try the propane torch and gasket scraper method on mine. It worked on a VW that I built into a rally car...

 

[sunrk]

Ok so first coat of paint has set off - the effect of the bitumen sheet stuff is obvious. I may be happy with just two coats of paint instead of 3 but I'll see. Not doing second coat until I get a new tin of the paint tomorrow.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Ok so first coat of paint has set off - the effect of the bitumen sheet stuff is obvious. I may be happy with just two coats of paint instead of 3 but I'll see. Not doing second coat until I get a new tin of the paint tomorrow.

Painting over the bitumen isn't achieving anything beyond looking pretty before you cover it up again.
The rest of it looks much tidier though.

 

[sunrk]

With multiple coats of the paint cured I found it helped the resomat form and adhere properly. I've got a special roller tool to use when putting it down. Second coat of paint in today so I can't really touch it for a week now.

 

[sunrk]

Righto I decided two coats of paint are enough and today it was set enough to install Resomat + (roughly cut to shape) the Tru-fit underlay over the top. Haven't fitted the actual vinyl over it yet. Also could not find my roll of 'Dynatape' (Dynamat's aluminium 'finishing' tape) so gotta get a new one of those.






So in total the job to do both the front footwell area (in 2016) and the back footwell area has used almost a whole box of Resomat and two sheets of underlay, plus the two sections of the vinyl flooring (front done in 2016). I bought all the Tru-fit stuff 7 yrs ago so not sure what costs of it all are now. Just had a look on Tru-Fit's website and can't see Resomat anywhere.