Builds Troopie build

[crushers]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/139874-expedition-bj74-buildup-3.html#post2204929
shows another idea i am going to consider.

Gotoy, i have heard of this over the decades but never experienced it. wider tires. spacers and IFS front hubs all put supposed strain on the wheel bearings but if toyota decided that IFS hubs are acceptable then i can not see a serious issue.

Bruce, thanks for the lead on the IFS hubs, i like that idea better than spacers up front. i also like the idea of almost stock parts for the owner to be able to find in a pinch.

cheers

 

[Greg_B]

Forget about the spacers and put 80 series axles in.

I have spacers and 60 series axles and wouldn't give up a mm of width.

Yup, at the speed I move forward on some projects this is a few years out...but I'm figuring some 80 axles on coils under the BJ74 would be a nice mod. Keeps it all Toy, run different BS wheels for daily and off road. Cut the rear FRP off, tube a nest for the Technitop that follows factory roof lines, custom soft-top for the back section, redo the storage drawers so the fridge still fits. Compact, smooth, great 1-2 person rig for back country.

Looking forward to see the end result of the Troopie build.

gb

 

[lshobie]

i run 2 inch spacers - have for 3 years and don't have a problem.just have to make sure you don't over torque the nuts or the stud will loosen up in the spacer - they are made in china afterall. Could easily make up better steel ones.

 

[Greg_B]

i run 2 inch spacers - have for 3 years and don't have a problem.just have to make sure you don't over torque the nuts or the stud will loosen up in the spacer - they are made in china afterall. Could easily make up better steel ones.

At the risk of getting Waynes build thread too far off track...I've been running 1.5" aluminum spacers on my BJ74 for 5-6 years. Not had a problem. Brake clean the wheel studs, just a dab of removable strength, torque the lug nuts, then check at the next service.

I had some 1.5" steel spacers made up. They are heavy. Still sitting on the shelf.

gb

 

[Clint79]

80 series diffs under a 70 with no flares and split rims will have the outside of tyre inline with the widest part of the fender

 

[ForealBoreal]

yikes I am pro wheel spacers then.

 

[lulo]

Forget about the spacers and put 80 series axles in.
.

... x2


Or leave your axles and enjoy (roll over man!!! )

 

[crushers]

stripping the frame
making sure Mitch didn't fall asleep
diffs coming out.

 

[crushers]

diffs out
lift is out
brake line, electrical etc is stripped
truck is not a low rider.

more tonight.

 

[lshobie]

Hi Wayne, looking good. Ever think of putting better brakes on that heavy pig? 79 series would be good but 5 lug - you can put tundra calipers and rotors I am pretty sure, rear disc would be better as well.

Louis

 

[crushers]

the front brakes are the 4 piston same size already which many consider being the upgraded version.
the rear, i have been bouncing this one back and forth for a bit now. the disc are the self adjusting with no brake fade
but
the drum actually has more stopping surface. if they get wet, they suck. no doubts about that but dry and they work excellent. 99% of this trucks life will be dry rough back roads...

still bouncing back and forth but i need to make a decision today as i am tearing down the rear diff as we speak.

 

[crushers]

well, decision has been made (quick eh?) changing to a disc brake rear diff ... not cheap or easy to find.

cheers

 

[lshobie]

I understand the conundrum, but in my opinion nothing and out of any cruiser I have ever driven nothing stops as well as my 79 with these massive front brakes after a day of hard driving they are great. I think Fromage put tundra calipers and rotors on his 80 series axles, I'll have to ask him.

 

[darwink1]

I vote for less tech and more pin up girls......

Keep it up man.

BTW are you in ontario (canada) by any chance?

D

 

[crushers]

yep, in Ontario.

 

[61Mk+]

.....

 

[Clint79]

I understand the conundrum, but in my opinion nothing and out of any cruiser I have ever driven nothing stops as well as my 79 with these massive front brakes after a day of hard driving they are great. I think Fromage put tundra calipers and rotors on his 80 series axles, I'll have to ask him.

Don't you have disk rear diff on the 79?


Crushers.
Can you bolt disk brake rear set up from a 7x series to a drum brake rear 7x series diff?

 

[crushers]

61K, what has to be done, has to be done.

Clint, no this unit is the drum rear.
I did some searching and the housings are the same between the disc and the drum. you need to switch the backing plate, e/brake assembley to inside the rotor, rotor, caliper etc.
these parts can be located here. Backing plate, last year it was close to $500 each new, when i called yesterday Toyota dropped the price substantially.
it is all the smaller parts that is a killer. both the HD and LD FF rear diffs use the same e/brake parts but no one in Canada is parting out a rear disc unit.

 

[crushers]

frame disconnected
set on rollers, i have found these car rollers to be invaluable for various applications.

the frame is now removed. i did a quick calculation of the body weight and built a rolling frame only to find out that the tires i used did not meet the weight they were rated at. the tire busted and the "bolt together" wheel had one of the bolts sheer through the metal. i will admit, it was a bit ... of a wake up call.

after doing some searching i came across a "bale wagon" that farmers use. the rating is for 2000# plus, it has 4 wheel steer and brakes. over kill on mounting and construction and is used in the farming industry for moving 1500# bales around the feed lots. i am off today to take a closer look. if i can make it work then this will be a happy addition to the tool bin.

small shop = ingenuity.

 

[crushers]

went to pick up some of the PC parts.

Scott did his usual fine work. his attention to detail is exceptional and the product he uses is second to none. it is refreshing in todays world to find a company that cares about their work.

if the item to be PC is prepped properly then the bonding of the PC to the item is amazing. i took one of the small pieces and hit the corner HARD with a ball peen hammer, hard enough to dent the metal. if you looked real close at the dented edge you could just see shiny metal. in normal use, this stuff will last for years with no issues. even being dragged over logs, submerged in swamp guts, dragged over rocks, this stuff stands up well. if you scrape INTO the metal of course you will have rust into the scrape but the PC immediately beside the scrape will not rust.

if you do a piss poor prep job then PC is no better than a poor paint job. last year i had a set of bumpers come in from Manafree and you could peel the PC off with your fingernail and see the metal anti rust coating underneath. NO prep was done. straight from the welding shop into the oven. it is applications such as these that cause people to think PC is a waste of time and money.

as in anything to do with paint, prep is the most important part of the process.

that is it for today. my new helper says it is time to head back to bed.