Builds Trifecta Build Thread - KOH EMC, Cruise Moab, Rubithon (1 Viewer)

[Charles4x4]

It hit me - Today is the day that most teams begin dreaming about and working on their 2019 KOH builds. Over the past week, like many of you, I watched most of the 2018 KOH / KOH EMC coverage. And, like many of you, wished I was there. So, I've decided to do something about it.

My first thought was...we'll...hold that thought for now.

My second thought was honestly of the millions of reasons why it wouldn't work out:
- I have a day job, an amazing wife, and two awesome girls who all keep me busy
- I have a budget, but certainly not enough savings for all I'm going to need to buy
- I have no crew, no sponsors, and no vehicle to start with
- Other than Moab EJS 7-years ago, my 30th birthday present from my wife pre-kids, I've never wheeled on the West Coast and certainly have never competed in anything like KOH
- I am scared I'm going to roll while coming down Back Door There is no easy line!

But, more importantly, my first thought was...I CAN DO THIS:
- I believe that God gave me the gifts of being a creator, builder, and engineer who loves to learn new things and can envision the possible
- I have never backed down from a challenge. I am determined, passionate, resourceful, and love to work hard - I always finish what I start.
- I have never taken the conventional route and it has always led me to amazing experiences - why start now?
- I love offroading and vehicle fabrication. I can see the lines at high speed and envision unconventional lines in the rocks. I love staring at a vehicle and imagining what it can become. I'm not extremely experienced at either, but I desire to get better at both.
- I believe life is a collection of experiences. The most amazing ones typically require a difficult choice at the beginning - should I try this crazy thing? The hardest part is always the same - Starting.

So, this is me Starting. What is my plan? Let's find out...

 

[Charles4x4]

Like most of you, I'm a Toyota guy through and through. I have an 80 series, a 100 series, and a 1st gen 4Runner I restored to mint condition that is currently for sale. I have also spent enough time and research to know that a skillful combination of driver skill and vehicle strength, reliability, and elegant simplicity are keys to success.

So, simply put, it'll be a Toyota.

What about the Trifecta? My personal hobby-based bucket list is simple - create a Toyota that can do all of the following well:
1) Compete in KOH EMC 4500 with a goal of both Starting and Finishing, not Winning
2) Take the family back to Moab, this time at Cruise Moab and do Pritchett Canyon
3) Take the family to Rubithon and complete the multi-day Rubicon Trail experience

And, I'll add, I want a vehicle that I wouldn't be embarrassed to take the family to church in or to grab ice cream on a hot summer night.

The reality is that #2-3 above severly limit my ability to stand on the podium at KOH EMC, and I'm completely fine with that. I want to build something that does a lot of things well.

Out of all the Toyota vehicle options, my favorite for this is the 3rd Gen 4Runner. Here's why:
- It's light, yet strong, and of course reliable
- The stock 3.4L v6 has decent power and can be supercharged
- I love its timeless looks, especially SAS on 37's (which means 4500 Class for KOH EMC)
- It has a great wheelbase at 105" and 4-doors with plenty of room for when the family is with me
- It is refined, yet highly affordable as a base vehicle

A 40 series would be nice for Moab and KOH, but they’re expensive to start and would be cramped with the kids and gear for Rubithon. I'd love to use a 60 or 80 series for Moab, but feel they are simply too big and heavy for KOH. I think a 1st Gen 4Runner fits the bill nicely, but am worried about strength in a few areas (frame/electrical) and while I love the 22RTE for reliability, power is certainly lacking for the desert without an engine swap that is currently not in the budget.

So, what's left? You might have guessed - I'm leaning heavily toward a '99-02 3rd Gen 4Runner that I can "modify". See below:

 

[Charles4x4]

Here is a starting point of what I would envision. And keep in mind, I'm no expert here, so I'm open to any suggestions:

Vehicle: '99-02 Toyota 4Runner (3rd Gen)
Engine: Stock 3.4L v6 with TRD Supercharger
Transmission: Stock - will it hold up? I'm not a Tranny expert!
Transfer Case: Atlas 2 or Marlin Dual Case (Strength & Value are a priority)
Axles: Diamond or Dana 60's at both ends, 14 Bolt Rear/Dana 60 Front, or 80 Series Axles on both ends (high-steer front and rear offset are an issue) - 4.88 Gears with Selectable Lockers of course
Tires: I already have four 37x12.50r17 Cooper STT Pro's in the basement that I love. Would need to get 3 more for spares.
Wheels: 17" Beadlocks - brand TBD. Would need 7 total ($$$)
Spare Tire: Likely mounted in the bed at the rear behind the fuel cell
Suspension: 3-Link Front and 4-Link Rear; 14" Coilovers F/R with Remote Reservoir and dual shocks up front
Driveshafts: Custom TBD
Fuel Cell: Aluminum mounted in the bed to make room for rear 4-Link without Panhard Bar
Sway Bars: F/R Currie Antirock or TBD
Steering: Mechanical High steer with PSC Hydraulic Assist (how are the 4500 guys getting away with what "looks" like full hydro by the way?)
Armor: F/R bumpers, sliders, full skid plates, steering guard
Winch: Warn
Safety: Full Roll Cage and all the required safety equipment for KOH (5-point harnesses, racing seats, kill switch, catch pans, etc)

I know I'll need a T-100 2wd oil pan given SAS and hope the fuel cell would give me enough room to house the rear 4-link comfortably. I'd use junkyard skins to create half-doors for KOH (save weight and no worry about dents), but retain the timeless 4-runner look/feel. For the body, I plan to cut portions of the roof and bob the bed 12" or so. This should save weight and add the "topless cool factor" for the girls while on the trail.

But overall, I want it to look and feel like a 4Runner. I don't know about all of you, but most today's KOH EMC 4500 rigs look like buggies, which I do agree is a necessity if you are competing to win. I want to compete and finish, but do so in a vehicle that looks like a 4Runner - retaining what I believe was the original essence of the "Every Man Challenge". Like many of the Jeep Cherokee's competing each year for example.

I also want to keep the rear seats for the family (removed for KOH to save weight) and all 4 doors (swapped out with half-door skins for KOH). Then I'll have a soft top made so we can keep warm/cool/dry on the trail. Overall, think the functionality and weight of a Jeep with the strength/reliability of a Toyota.

 

[Charles4x4]

So that is where I stand today. I've got a vacant garage bay, tons of tools, an Ultra4 Rulebook (v4.4), a vision, determination, and a supportive family. If, as they say, the only way to climb a mountain is one step at a time, my first step is selling my mint condition 1st Gen 4Runner SR5 Turbo to fund my starting budget.

Then find the perfect 3rd gen 4runner to serve as my baseline, recruit a few friends to help, maybe land some sponsors over time, and get it done.

I've got a ton of other ideas, but will save those for later. And I did think of a potential team name: Steel City Racing

Stay tuned...

 

[matzell]

A big thing to consider is the cost. figure out your budget and triple it! I stayed home this year but have raced the past 5 EMC races. I finished the last two, 11th, and 10th place.

4:88's are not going to be enough gear. I run 5:38's with a healthy v-8.

Good luck with your build and I hope to see you out there next year. I plan to go back out.

Rob
#4573

 

[74fj40]

Any specific reason for 99-02? You could probably find a 96-98 and save a little money on purchase cost while essentially have the same truck if your just going to strip it any ways?

Also, a Chinese turbo kit for a 3rd gen is a 1/3rd the cost of a magnuson supercharger.

Diamonds are a great axle, but you better order them ASAP, I have a friend that waited twice as long as the original wait time.

Lots of high end suspension seat companies will build benches to spec. Maybe you could ditch the factory rear seat and put in a custom bench to accommodate your girls?

 

[pjohnson]

You should talk to @RustyNailJustin

 

[Charles4x4]

A big thing to consider is the cost. figure out your budget and triple it! I stayed home this year but have raced the past 5 EMC races. I finished the last two, 11th, and 10th place.

4:88's are not going to be enough gear. I run 5:38's with a healthy v-8.

Good luck with your build and I hope to see you out there next year. I plan to go back out.

Rob
#4573

Rob, thanks for the great advice. I'm glad to have a veteran EMC competitor on the forum!

On the gears, my theory was that 4.88s would be perfect for 37s in the desert and on the road. Then the Atlas would have low enough gearing to work well in the rocks. Just a theory, but was hoping to stick with 4.88s for strength and possibly slightly better fuel economy. Can easily be convenience into 5.29s though.

 

[Charles4x4]

Any specific reason for 99-02? You could probably find a 96-98 and save a little money on purchase cost while essentially have the same truck if your just going to strip it any ways?

From everything I've read, most of the good upgrades happened in '99+. Also, I'd love to get a '99-00 Sport/Highlander if I can find one at the right price - I love the looks without all the side molding you get on the Limited. I plan to sell the parts I remove to recoup a little cost.

Also, a Chinese turbo kit for a 3rd gen is a 1/3rd the cost of a magnuson supercharger.

Great to know - the $2-3K price tag for the TRD Supercharger is steep. I was hoping to find a used one. How do the Chinese turbo kits hold up vs. the supercharger? I lean toward supercharger for more consistency across the power band and also for cooling reasons, but this is a great option to know about.

Diamonds are a great axle, but you better order them ASAP, I have a friend that waited twice as long as the original wait time.

Good suggestion. Once I sell the SR5 Turbo, the base vehicle, axles, and suspension will be the first items purchased. Fingers crossed my buyer coming this week purchases the 1st gen.

Lots of high end suspension seat companies will build benches to spec. Maybe you could ditch the factory rear seat and put in a custom bench to accommodate your girls?

Great idea. I see PRP mentioned a lot on here and Pirate. I assume any of the top brands could make a seat that mimics the stock rear 4runner seat?

 

[mtntoys]

If you don't plan to do any fuel system mods with the supercharger, a 96 ECM can't handle boost. 96-97 have manual slid/cable HVAC controls. I'd avoid the auto(Limited) HVAC if you plant to retain heat. All off the "upgrades" on the later models will be ripped off for the build and are probably not worth the added initial purchase coast. Are you looking for a manual or auto transmission? Might find the right cheap pre dented/rolled rig here: https://www.copart.com/
Good luck, I like where you're heading with this

 

[Charles4x4]

If you don't plan to do any fuel system mods with the supercharger, a 96 ECM can't handle boost. 96-97 have manual slid/cable HVAC controls. I'd avoid the auto(Limited) HVAC if you plant to retain heat. All off the "upgrades" on the later models will be ripped off for the build and are probably not worth the added initial purchase coast. Are you looking for a manual or auto transmission? Might find the right cheap pre dented/rolled rig here: https://www.copart.com/
Good luck, I like where you're heading with this

Thanks. Leaning toward an Auto for now - seems to be easier in the rocks. I assume a Sport/Highlander would allow me to avoid the Auto HVAC right? It so, that'll be the first choice.

 

[White Stripe]

It's hard to solid axle a ifs rig and keep it low due to the design of the frame. If you make the front 3rd of the frame with more "kickup" like a solid axle vehicle frame they you could keep it lower. Low center of gravity and light weight are huge when it come to crawling, especially rock racing type stuff. So you will need to keep it low, yet still have enough uptravel to handle the whoops. Doing this yourself with a full fledged family will be tough and take years I imagine.

 

[Charles4x4]

It's hard to solid axle a ifs rig and keep it low due to the design of the frame. If you make the front 3rd of the frame with more "kickup" like a solid axle vehicle frame they you could keep it lower. Low center of gravity and light weight are huge when it come to crawling, especially rock racing type stuff. So you will need to keep it low, yet still have enough uptravel to handle the whoops. Doing this yourself with a full fledged family will be tough and take years I imagine.

Thanks. I definitely get it and know the challenges that lie ahead. I'm nervous to change the frame too much, but the rule book only applies between the motor mounts and the rear most portion of the front seats.

Overall, I'm up for taking it on and will be exciting to see how much uptravel I can squeeze out of it on the front end while keep the Center of Gravity low.

 

[Charles4x4]

REMOVED (I was mixing different sections of the rule book incorrectly)

 

[RustyNailJustin]

Looking at your last post you are getting stuff mixed up between 4500 and 4600 class.
I am happy to provide some advice, I have done it a bunch in the past for a lot of different people. One thing I have learned is most people ask, then just go try and learn the hard way anyways.
I will just give you a bit of my background so my advice may hold a little more water for you.
I have been into rock crawling and desert racing for over 25 years. I was the first full frame full body rig to finish KOH (2009) before there were classes.
I have raced every year since with the exception of 2018. I was ready for a break and my car needs some much needed love.
In 2010-2015 I codrove unlimited class with our best finish being 9th. In 2013 we built a 4600 class and raced that 2014-2017, with 2 Podium finishes at KOH and 1 at the nitto nationals.
So my advice, read and comprehend the rule book. Decide what you want to build and what fits the best into what you want to accomplish.
Like Rob said cost is going to be way more than you think. At a bare minimum plan to spend 5K per race in just prep and fees.
Buy spares early! Steering pumps, alternator , shocks, axles, fire extuingshers, etc.
Buy stuff you don't think about till it's getting close to race time way earlier. Gas cans, extra tool boxes, GPS, clean air systems, intercom, helmet, fire suit, window nets, head and neck restraints. Buy it early or you will get nickled and dimed to death!
Have your car built and "race ready" no later than October, and plan at least a few days to shake the car down, then start thinking about doing some shock tuning to at least get it close. Once you make the lake bed you can do your final shock tune with all your spares and tools.
Don't forget you will have additional costs, getting your car banded
Your tracker
Your usac insurance.
I have seen so many people come in so blind to this sport. Building the rig is the easy part, it's all the other B.S. that's tough.
That's some stuff off the top of my head.

 

[Charles4x4]

Looking at your last post you are getting stuff mixed up between 4500 and 4600 class.

First of all - THANK YOU for all the amazing advice. Again, I'm so thankful for all the help I receive from members of this forum.

You're right, i'm probably reading the rule book the wrong way. Much of what is posted above is a mix of the Front 1/2 of the rule book and the 4500 section (no 4600 or 4800 confusion though). I'm guessing I can ignore a lot of the stuff in the Front 1/2 and stick mostly with the 4500 section instead. I'll also work to revise the questions above.

I am happy to provide some advice, I have done it a bunch in the past for a lot of different people. One thing I have learned is most people ask, then just go try and learn the hard way anyways.
I will just give you a bit of my background so my advice may hold a little more water for you.
I have been into rock crawling and desert racing for over 25 years. I was the first full frame full body rig to finish KOH (2009) before there were classes.
I have raced every year since with the exception of 2018. I was ready for a break and my car needs some much needed love.
In 2010-2015 I codrove unlimited class with our best finish being 9th. In 2013 we built a 4600 class and raced that 2014-2017, with 2 Podium finishes at KOH and 1 at the nitto nationals.
So my advice, read and comprehend the rule book. Decide what you want to build and what fits the best into what you want to accomplish.

Thanks - sage advice and I definitely agree.

Like Rob said cost is going to be way more than you think. At a bare minimum plan to spend 5K per race in just prep and fees.
Buy spares early! Steering pumps, alternator , shocks, axles, fire extuingshers, etc.
Buy stuff you don't think about till it's getting close to race time way earlier. Gas cans, extra tool boxes, GPS, clean air systems, intercom, helmet, fire suit, window nets, head and neck restraints. Buy it early or you will get nickled and dimed to death!
Have your car built and "race ready" no later than October, and plan at least a few days to shake the car down, then start thinking about doing some shock tuning to at least get it close. Once you make the lake bed you can do your final shock tune with all your spares and tools.
Don't forget you will have additional costs, getting your car banded
Your tracker
Your usac insurance.
I have seen so many people come in so blind to this sport. Building the rig is the easy part, it's all the other B.S. that's tough.
That's some stuff off the top of my head.

Perfect - I was anticipating some of these thigns, but certainly not all. I'll put $5K in the Prep and Fees section. Another $5K in Safety and Spares. Then I'll set my target to finish before Halloween! No clue how to shock tune, but I'll figure that out down the road. I've also heard once you're on the lake bed, your coilover manufacturer might help you dial it in, but I'm guessing the line is long for that need.

 

[RustyNailJustin]

First of all - THANK YOU for all the amazing advice. Again, I'm so thankful for all the help I receive from members of this forum.

You're right, i'm probably reading the rule book the wrong way. Much of what is posted above is a mix of the Front 1/2 of the rule book and the 4500 section (no 4600 or 4800 confusion though). I'm guessing I can ignore a lot of the stuff in the Front 1/2 and stick mostly with the 4500 section instead. I'll also work to revise the questions above.


Thanks - sage advice and I definitely agree.


Perfect - I was anticipating some of these thigns, but certainly not all. I'll put $5K in the Prep and Fees section. Another $5K in Safety and Spares. Then I'll set my target to finish before Halloween! No clue how to shock tune, but I'll figure that out down the road. I've also heard once you're on the lake bed, your coilover manufacturer might help you dial it in, but I'm guessing the line is long for that need.

Yes, ADS has awesome customer service, as does King and Fox. You will probably want to get on their schedule early in the week cause it's usually easy and there is not a compressed dead like you will start to feel about Tuesday night.
Most good shock tuners can get you close in one session.
I personally run ADS because of the relationship I built with them over the years. I have been happy with their products.

 

[matzell]

Justin is right. Read and memorize the rule book. Call or email the tech director at Ultra4 if you have any "tech" questions. Other racers are good but Ultra4 has the final ruling. Justin and I have both raced a bunch. I have over built my car and it is heavy but it a solid finisher as long as my talent tank does not run out. Get some dedicated team members to help but plan on doing most of the work yourself. This helps as you will know your car inside and out and know how to fix it. You will need to prep your car between races. I usually spend about 30-40 hours between races. For KOH/EMC plan on spending a month prepping and going through the car. Plan ahead and order parts daily so you do not run out of parts which in turns holds up the build progress. Look for deals, holiday sales, craigslist etc for parts. I drove 500 miles for a set of tires one weekend because the tire manufacture was not making 37's at the time. I have 4 spares mounted and ready to go at all races. I did run out at one race and did not finish one lap! Yes it happens.

Find a reliable co-driver. One that is commited to race the race and help prep the car. One that is in shape helps too if you have to winch a lot. One that you like, get a long with and will take you yelling at him with a grain of salt during and after the race. I actually had a co-driver get out of the car because he was getting beat too bad. One of my other crew members got in for the rest of the race.

Food and beer go a long way in getting people to help. I also make sure that everyone gets a t-shirt with the team name on it. Jsut a little thank you to the ones that help out and let them know they are part of the team.

Talk to suppliers. Do not expect to get anything for free. They may offer discounts which help out a LOT! Do not forget those that help you out no matter how small it is.

 

[Charles4x4]

Okay, I just finished reading the entire rule book. Per the 4500 Modified Class section:
1) The body (exterior of the cab, bed, doors, hood, front/rear fenders, grill, etc) shall be complete with the exception of Modifications for performance and/or clearance are permitted, but must preserve the look of the stock body, as originally manufactured.
- I plan to remove the portion of the cab behind the C Pillar "for performance" (weight saving, allow the cage to stick up above slightly, etc) and bob the bed 12"
- I plan to cut out a section of roof between the A and B Pillars, but I'll do it in a way that isn't noticeable from a side view (imagine a big sunroof with no glass)

2) Firewalls (all-metal) must separate the driving compartment from any fuels, engine fluids, and acids.
- Given my fuel cell and battery will be mounted behind the rear seats, what type of "firewall" is required? Maybe just enclose the fuel tank and battery with sheet metal somehow?

Based on the posts I've seen and past builds, it seems that most people interpret the real requirements for 4500 as:
- 37" Tires
- Mechanical Steering (no Full Hydro, but Hydro Assist seems fine)
- Frame from Engine Mounts to behind Front Seats has to be stock
- Must somewhat "look" like an OEM Vehicle

If the above is correct, then my plans seem to be in line right? I'm probably most concerned about cutting the cab behind the C Pillar and failing tech because it looks more like a double cab truck than a 4Runner...

 

[Charles4x4]

I also read the 4600 section closely. I may actually be closer to 4600 class than I had expected. Exceptions from my plans above include:
- 35s instead of 37s
- I cannot cut the cab or bob the bed
- No Supercharger allowed, but "boring, stroking, and other internal engine modification sare permitted"
- Only one shock per wheel, not two
- I cannot recess the fuel cell into the floor between the frame behind the rear seats
- No air bumps (rubber/poly bumps only)

But, the key question for me is this. If I combine these three sections:
- "Suspension configuration must remain stock, as originally manufactured (meaning that leaf springs must remain leaf springs, coil springs must remain as coil springs, torsion-bars must remain as torsion bars, etc)"
- "Coil-springs and related suspension linkage may be modified or limited and replace with any coil-springs and linkage, and may be installed in any location and orientation with the following limitations and exceptions: Coil-springs must be connected directly to the axle assembly and chassis...Coil-springs shall not be replaced with any type of coil-over shock, unless factory equipped (if so, factory coil-over shocks may be replaced with aftermarket coil-over shocks)"
- "Any and all axles assemblies are permitted"

If I'm interpreting this correctly:
- I can 3-Link SAS the front and replace the stock 4Runner Coilovers with 14" Aftermarket Coilovers with Remote Resevoirs
- I can put on an advanced 4-Link in the rear so long as I keep Coil-springs (no coilovers) with 14" Hi-Performance Shocks (not bypass though)

If this is right?

*The only issue I potentially see with the idea above is "The steering box (or rack, if so-equipped), must remain within 4" of the stock location"
- Maybe there is a creative way around this? Or does this kill my idea?


If this is a possibility, do you all think sacrificing the tire size, weight, power, and shock limitations above in order to be in the 4600 class (less rigs with far less power than 4500 class)? I can always modify further and run 4500 in 2020 if I'm not happy with the rig's performance outside KOH I guess.

And maybe there is a really tall 35" tire out there?