Transmission Troubles

[anjarnold8]

I am trying to remove my transmission to do a clutch and bearing, rear main seal, and transfer case seal replacement. I followed the FSM and can't seem to get the support brace out. So then I thought I'd just take it out with the transmission but I can't seem to find a way to access the two bolts on the passenger side. Will these bolts become accessible once I get the support brace out? I will be just unbolting it from the frame instead of just the mounting bolts. I think I can get to the top one through the cab of the truck in the opening for the low range lever (it is removed).

Any secrets for getting out the 4-speed from this 1984 FJ60?

 

[ChaserFJ60]

The cross-member can be taken apart in three pieces, Whatever way works for you and is safest.

I ususally take off the member from the frame using a thin ratchet wrench

 

[anjarnold8]

The cross-member can be taken apart in three pieces, Whatever way works for you and is safest.

I ususally take off the member from the frame using a thin ratchet wrench

View attachment 2815704

I don't believe this is from an FJ60. Where's all the grease and dirt? Thanks for the image. My next plan is to support it from the transfer case and remove the brace. Once I have that off are the passenger side bolts on the transmission to bell housing more accessible?

 

[ChaserFJ60]

I don't believe this is from an FJ60. Where's all the grease and dirt? Thanks for the image. My next plan is to support it from the transfer case and remove the brace. Once I have that off are the passenger side bolts on the transmission to bell housing more accessible?

yeah, well they are enough. its not easy to get into

 

[cps432]

Put a jack stand under the lowest part of the transfer case. Remove the cross member but leave the transmission mount bolted to the transmission itself. Get a harbor freight transmission jack. Bleed the piston and lube all the threads etc… then mount a piece of plywood to the transmission jack and drill holes in it to accept the studs from the bottom of the transmission mount. Then the transmission will be very secure when you start moving it around. All the bolts should be very accessible this way. Good you’re thinking this through. That sucker is heavy and wants to dump itself to the passenger side when you dismount out from the bell housing. Here are a few pics to help you visualize this rig. I have been able to pull my transmission and stab it twice with little trouble.

I was able to rebuild my transfer case while the transmission was mounted to the jack. Easy to move it around. Plenty of stability to torque things. Like I said. Done it twice like this. Last time I did it alone with no issues whatsoever.
To get that tall transmission out you’ll need to remove the passenger front wheel and jack that side of the truck high in the sky. You got this!

When you go to reinstall that baby get some extra long grade 8 bolts. Cut the hex head off and use a hack saw to make slots in the end for a flathead. Chamfer the end so there are no burrs. Then temporarily install them into the top bolt holes on the bell housing. Make sure they are completely threaded into the bellhousing and are solid with no play. Use them to get the transmission aligned when you stab it. You can actually see where I have one installed in the first picture. Once you get the transmission lined up and on those home made studs you can lay in your back and push the transfer case with your feet and it should slide right into place if you get the adjusting screws on the jack leveled properly. Easy job in reality. It’s just heavy. Be careful and use your noggin.

I also suggest using a jack stand with a piece of plywood under the oil pan to prevent the engine from diving backwards after the transmission is pulled. Use the plywood so you don’t bend the oil pan. And make sure you support the transfer case with a stand when you go to mount the cross member back into place.

 

[anjarnold8]

Put a jack stand under the lowest part of the transfer case. Remove the cross member but leave the transmission mount bolted to the transmission itself. Get a harbor freight transmission jack. Bleed the piston and lube all the threads etc… then mount a piece of plywood to the transmission jack and drill holes in it to accept the studs from the bottom of the transmission mount. Then the transmission will be very secure when you start moving it around. All the bolts should be very accessible this way. Good you’re thinking this through. That sucker is heavy and wants to dump itself to the passenger side when you dismount out from the bell housing. Here are a few pics to help you visualize this rig. I have been able to pull my transmission and stab it twice with little trouble. View attachment 2815828View attachment 2815827View attachment 2815826View attachment 2815825I was able to rebuild my transfer case while the transmission was mounted to the jack. Easy to move it around. Plenty of stability to torque things. Like I said. Done it twice like this. Last time I did it alone with no issues whatsoever.
To get that tall transmission out you’ll need to remove the passenger front wheel and jack that side of the truck high in the sky. You got this!

When you go to reinstall that baby get some extra long grade 8 bolts. Cut the hex head off and use a hack saw to make slots in the end for a flathead. Chamfer the end so there are no burrs. Then temporarily install them into the top bolt holes on the bell housing. Make sure they are completely threaded into the bellhousing and are solid with no play. Use them to get the transmission aligned when you stab it. You can actually see where I have one installed in the first picture. Once you get the transmission lined up and on those home made studs you can lay in your back and push the transfer case with your feet and it should slide right into place if you get the adjusting screws on the jack leveled properly. Easy job in reality. It’s just heavy. Be careful and use your noggin.

I also suggest using a jack stand with a piece of plywood under the oil pan to prevent the engine from diving backwards after the transmission is pulled. Use the plywood so you don’t bend the oil pan. And make sure you support the transfer case with a stand when you go to mount the cross member back into place.

This is remarkably helpful. Good tip on taking the wheel off. The rest of what you outlined is my rough plan, but the visuals is super helpful. Especially for where those passenger side bolts from the transmission to the bell housing are. Thank you for your photos and advice.

 

[77CruiserDog]

Put a jack stand under the lowest part of the transfer case. Remove the cross member but leave the transmission mount bolted to the transmission itself. Get a harbor freight transmission jack. Bleed the piston and lube all the threads etc… then mount a piece of plywood to the transmission jack and drill holes in it to accept the studs from the bottom of the transmission mount. Then the transmission will be very secure when you start moving it around. All the bolts should be very accessible this way. Good you’re thinking this through. That sucker is heavy and wants to dump itself to the passenger side when you dismount out from the bell housing. Here are a few pics to help you visualize this rig. I have been able to pull my transmission and stab it twice with little trouble. View attachment 2815828View attachment 2815827View attachment 2815826View attachment 2815825I was able to rebuild my transfer case while the transmission was mounted to the jack. Easy to move it around. Plenty of stability to torque things. Like I said. Done it twice like this. Last time I did it alone with no issues whatsoever.
To get that tall transmission out you’ll need to remove the passenger front wheel and jack that side of the truck high in the sky. You got this!

When you go to reinstall that baby get some extra long grade 8 bolts. Cut the hex head off and use a hack saw to make slots in the end for a flathead. Chamfer the end so there are no burrs. Then temporarily install them into the top bolt holes on the bell housing. Make sure they are completely threaded into the bellhousing and are solid with no play. Use them to get the transmission aligned when you stab it. You can actually see where I have one installed in the first picture. Once you get the transmission lined up and on those home made studs you can lay in your back and push the transfer case with your feet and it should slide right into place if you get the adjusting screws on the jack leveled properly. Easy job in reality. It’s just heavy. Be careful and use your noggin.

I also suggest using a jack stand with a piece of plywood under the oil pan to prevent the engine from diving backwards after the transmission is pulled. Use the plywood so you don’t bend the oil pan. And make sure you support the transfer case with a stand when you go to mount the cross member back into place.

Great info! I'll be swapping a 5spd in place of my 4spd in early Spring, I'll follow these tips! Thanks for the pics too, super helpful!!