Transmission removal - 85 BJ70

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Joined
Sep 13, 2007
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Location
Vancouver, BC
Finally found a decent tranny to replace the noisy / pop-outta 5th H55F in my 85 BJ70 (347km).

Never having the tranny out of one of these before could someone who has pulled one give me some pointers on dropping the unit out? any tips or tricks that will make it easier.. how long to R&R the tranny/transfer combo with air tools and a floorjack?

Can all the trans bolts be removed from below the truck, or do I need to pull the carpet and the transmission tunnel?

My clutch and everything seems to work just fine so I am not planning on replacing anything at this time, just swapping my noisy tranny/transfer combo for the new(er) one I picked up. But with that being said, is there anything I should really really be doing while everythings out?

Any suggestions or advise would be appreciated.

Thanks,
 
just from memory,remove shifter and hi/lo/4WD shifter boots,just pull the carpet back,no need to remove carpet.
remove driveshafts,speedo cable,Xmember,slave cylinder,starter,disconnect battery.
you can remove trans with bellhousing or just remove the transmission from bellhousing first,the later is a little tricky with the release bearing.
if the trans is out,l would check the clutch and release bearing and definately change the front seal at that mileage.
Simon
TLC winnipeg.
 
You dont need to remove the tunnel or carpet.
I think you will need something better than a floor jack. The transfer case makes them very lop sided and the moment it separates ,it will want to rotate.
I would also advise getting a helper.

I think I removed the rear mount and let the back drop to make access to the top bolts on the bellhousing easier(or it may have been another vehicle)
Its a simple job except for the weight of the gearbox and t/case

I would do the clutch(unless you know exactly how old it is)
Have the flywheel machined.
Do the rear main oil seal although Im uncertain if they are troublesome like some of the other toyota engines
 
l haven't seen any rear main leak yet,but a few trabsmission front seal leak.
long tine ago before l have my shop and hoist,l use a trannyadaptor that go on a floorjack and a ratchet strap to hold the transmission to the tranny jack adaptor.
Simon
 
how do you change the rear main in a 13BT? I'm swapping out my gearbox and clutch on the weekend.

The same as the other Toyotas,remove the flywheel,remove the oil seal retainer. To get the seal out you use a screwdriver and destroy it without scratching the machined surfaces.
To instal the new one ,you gently tap it in with an appropriate sized piece of tube,eg large socket.
An old diesel mechanic told me this is one part that should be bought from Toyota ;)

The manual shows a gasket behind the oil seal reatainer,so you may need one of them too
 
I will ask mr toyota, I ordered in a rear main seal, $124 from toyota!!

Did you ring a few dealers? I think I paid $50 and $80 for a 3F and 1HZ respectively from the stealer.
 
I dont think it would of mattered, apparently only one in aus, they had to get it from Sydney or something.

The dealers all get the parts from Sydney but are then free to charge whatever they want.
In the last few weeks Ive seen prices vary from $40 to $60 for the same part from different dealers.
I am convinced my local dealer (Big Rock Toyota) is the biggest crook of the lot
 
The same as the other Toyotas,remove the flywheel,remove the oil seal retainer. To get the seal out you use a screwdriver and destroy it without scratching the machined surfaces.
To instal the new one ,you gently tap it in with an appropriate sized piece of tube,eg large socket.
An old diesel mechanic told me this is one part that should be bought from Toyota ;)

The manual shows a gasket behind the oil seal reatainer,so you may need one of them too

If you pull the rear main seal carrier you will need to drop the pan. My 13BT uses silicone as a pan gasket the rear main seal carrier is part of the rear portion of the pan, and yes there is a gasket between the seal carrier and block.


Jim
 
If you pull the rear main seal carrier you will need to drop the pan.

Jim

Have you done it like that?I can see in the manual where you remove the pan before the retainer but thats when stripping the engine.
Does the oil pan hide some of the retainer bolts?
Just seems a lot of work ,the oil pan has 23 bolts and 4 nuts on its own:confused:
 
Just my opinion on pulling the trans since I just went through this last month and it took 3 weeks start to finish,pull the trans TCase and bell housing out in seperate sections.
The whole thing is very heavy and akward to pull as a unit unless you have a car lift and proper tranny jack,I had to raise mine a extra foot on stands and mine has a good sized lift in it just to get under it and get into all the odd spots to disconnect the wires shifter levers and upper bolts.
 
s***, you blokes do things the hard way.
to remove the real main,
pull tranny
remove clutch and fly wheel
take screw driver and pry out old seal
use old seal to seat the new seal
get flywheel turned
if in doubt then install new clutch kit
install tranny
done.

i have done ... well ... dozenS of rear mains this way.

sheesh/
 
s***, you blokes do things the hard way.
to remove the real main,
pull tranny
remove clutch and fly wheel
take screw driver and pry out old seal
use old seal to seat the new seal
get flywheel turned
if in doubt then install new clutch kit
install tranny
done.

i have done ... well ... dozenS of rear mains this way.

sheesh/

Well thats basically what I said but someone says you have to remove the oil pan:confused:
 
close but i don't remove the seal retainer. i just pry the seal out and install the new one. just be carefull when the screw driver is close to the crank. a small rag will protect it if placed between the driver and the crank pry location.
or if you use a "round" screw driver instead of one with square edges then it is almost impossible to do any damage.
 
probably would work but a drill bit and a screw next to a sealing surface would make me nervous
:shrug:
 

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