Transmission Jack Recommendations (1 Viewer)

[fj60eric]

I'm diving into my first clutch job this weekend and am going to buy a transmission jack...wanted to see what everyone else is using/recommends. I know plenty of people will say they just use a normal floor jack, which i have, but since I'm doing the clutch job myself I figure I can justify buying a tranny jack and making it a bit easier on myself. Don't want to break the bank, but figure for something like this maybe I shouldn't go the harbor freight route either.

Any negatives with the tranny adapter jack that would fit my floor jack? Here are a couple of possible choices:

http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W41044...1389105431&sr=8-10&keywords=transmission+jack

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-TR4076-...=1389105431&sr=8-4&keywords=transmission+jack

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-TR4076-...=1389105431&sr=8-4&keywords=transmission+jack

Thanks!

 

[salvage60]

It is heavy and oddly balanced, this may be worth it:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo.../800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html

I used a floor jack and wished I had something better.

 

[Bama4door]

These work pretty well also and is cheaper
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-69995.html

 

[Godwin]

The transmission + transfer case is heavy and will be off balance no matter what you use. The adapter for a floor jack will be worthless. An actual transmission jack will be better because it has 4 rotatable wheels and you will need to do a lot of shuffling and wiggling to reinstall the tranny.

I just went through this and I used a transmission jack, plus blocks of wood to help level the tranny/t-case, and used two straps to stabilize the load. It was still a huge pain.

 

[agomez]

I used one very similar to the second and third links you posted and it worked great. I used it on my ford truck left the transfer case attached with no problems, just make sure you have some good tie down straps and a good clean level working surface....2 cents.

 

[TobyB]

I have used the HF adapter on a standard floor jack. It's not exactly useless, but where it loses is that it is
very tall. So unless you raise the vehicle more than you get with standard jack stands
(or you have a significant lift and support it by the axles)
getting the transmission/transfer out from under afterwards becomes almost as big a chore as
getting it down in the first place.

It can also be tippy if you're not paying attention to the center of gravity of the t- case and transmission.

Where it won was in reinstallation- small adjustments in height and angle were easy, so the
input shaft re- stabbed into the clutch about as easily as anything I've ever used.

(someone gave me the HF adapter, so I figured I'd try it. I'd use it again. I guess. If I had to.)

t

 

[Slow Left]

Godwin, TobyB,
When you guys pulled the trans/transfer case, did you do it with the vehicle on or off a lift? TobyB mentioned jack stands and you guys are talking about floor jacks, so am I right in assuming it was off a lift?

When I pulled mine over the summer to rebuild the transfer case, I found a lift I could use locally, but that won't always be the case. If I have to pull it again to replace the clutch, it'll be on the ground. I just can't imagine getting enough angle to guide the trans input shaft into position with the vehicle on the ground....

Thus, the jackstands? On all four axel ends?

 

[2mbb]

I used one of these and was able to remove and reinstall the transmission/transfer case by my self. I used a larger piece of plywood on the top and used some other pieces of wood to support the assembly in the correct orientation. It was still a little tricky to get the jack under the center of gravity.

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html


I was not able to get the assembly plus the cart out from under the truck, so I also had to devise a way to lift the plywood off the cart, then move the cart out of the way. This also was a balancing act, but somehow I got it done. I was doing the work in my garage with a low ceiling height, so I couldn't really lift the truck up too much. You should think about your particular situation ahead of time...

 

[Godwin]

Godwin, TobyB,
When you guys pulled the trans/transfer case, did you do it with the vehicle on or off a lift? TobyB mentioned jack stands and you guys are talking about floor jacks, so am I right in assuming it was off a lift?

When I pulled mine over the summer to rebuild the transfer case, I found a lift I could use locally, but that won't always be the case. If I have to pull it again to replace the clutch, it'll be on the ground. I just can't imagine getting enough angle to guide the trans input shaft into position with the vehicle on the ground....

Thus, the jackstands? On all four axel ends?

I did it with vehicle on the ground. My 60 is lifted a few inches with an OME suspension and there is plenty of room underneath to drop the tranny, move it out of the way, and access the clutch, flywheel, etc.

What you want to avoid is having the jack tip over allowing the tranny to slide off. I had this happen and had to pull everything from under the Cruiser, of course then I could place the tranny securely on the jack. Getting the whole contraption back under required some serious jacking of the rear before the shift tower (highest portion of the tranny) would clear the frame.

When reinstalling you have some allowance with tilting the rear of engine downward, which may or may not help. You do want to support the engine when removing the transmission. The stock jack under the oil pan, plus a block of wood to spread the support, works well.

 

[Slow Left]

Good to know it's doable without the lift. I'll probably have to put my truck up on jack stands (stock suspension) though.

Having the lift was a double edge sword. Points for convenience, but balancing the trans/transfer case on the jack stand at that height kept me frosty. But if the tranny had fallen from that height, it would have been bad news. Wood is a must in order to get the right balance.

I found that while I didn't need to muscle the tranny back in, getting the right angle required maneuvering and having the tranny sitting on the right part of the jack.

Didn't support the engine while the tranny was out... I think I got away with something on that one...

 

[Cruzerman]

Once I used a harbor freight tranny jack adapter for a floor jack. Almost dropped the thing on me. I will never do that again. Once I got out from under the car alive, I put that thing in the metal recycle pile. Needed something right away so I went and rented a real tranny jack from a rental shop. Night and day difference.

 

[60Works]

Didn't support the engine while the tranny was out... I think I got away with something on that one...

?? The back of the block tipping back against the firewall maybe?

Godwin's idea of using a bottle jack with a wood block under the pan, while effective, might result in popping the spot welds that attach the skid plate to the pan. Cracks there will result in an unstoppable oil seep between the pan and the plate.

I appreciate this thread because I will be doing this next week without a lift and haven't figured out which path to take. Right now the engine is supported by a jackstand under the left (which sits slightly lower) corner of the bell housing.

 

[Slow Left]

?? The back of the block tipping back against the firewall maybe?

Godwin's idea of using a bottle jack with a wood block under the pan, while effective, might result in popping the spot welds that attach the skid plate to the pan. Cracks there will result in an unstoppable oil seep between the pan and the plate.

I appreciate this thread because I will be doing this next week without a lift and haven't figured out which path to take. Right now the engine is supported by a jackstand under the left (which sits slightly lower) corner of the bell housing.

From what I could tell, after I removed the tranny and with the engine unsupported, the weight was resting on the engine mounts. I couldn't tell you if it sat back enough for the back of the valve cover or back of the head to rest on the firewall (simply because I didn't look).

I used a transmission jack and a couple of these tall screw jacks (see image) to maneuver and hold the tranny at the correct angle and position so that it slid into the bell housing without disturbing it.

For sure, if I were to do it over again, I would support the engine, not just for safety, but so that you have a good angle for reinserting the tranny.
For me, with the lift, the position (angle) of the engine wasn't that important since I had much more space to work with vehicle off the ground.

 

[Godwin]

Godwin's idea of using a bottle jack with a wood block under the pan, while effective, might result in popping the spot welds that attach the skid plate to the pan. Cracks there will result in an unstoppable oil seep between the pan and the plate.

I've done this more than a few times and have not had any issues with oil pan leakage. Because the motor is also supported by the motor mounts the full weight of the engine is not resting on the oil pan. I also think supporting the rear of the engine is good in that it reduces the twisting force on the motor mounts which may lead to a separation of the rubber.

 

[Godwin]

What you want to avoid is having the jack tip over allowing the tranny to slide off. I had this happen and had to pull everything from under the Cruiser, of course then I could place the tranny securely on the jack. Getting the whole contraption back under required some serious jacking of the rear before the shift tower (highest portion of the tranny) would clear the frame.

What happens when the tranny falls off the jack

 

[the gimpey one]

You get to fill the swear jar!

 

[Slow Left]

Nice!

 

[CruiserHappy]

I used what 2mbb used and it bent the jack due to it being so hard to center.

I bought for $50 off Craigslist one like salvage60 suggested, worked much better.