Transmission issue

[DesertLCruiser]

My car jerks as soon as I step on the gas and then it’s runs smooth. It feels to me like it’s a transmission issue.
Did anyone face this issue with their 100 LC?
And does anyone know a mechanic in Massachusetts? Worcester, Shrewsbury, Framingham areas?

 

[97 AZ LC]

It's always a good idea to provide us with the model year. And the mileage would be helpful too.

 

[getz]

Have the dealership grease the driveshaft.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

It's always a good idea to provide us with the model year. And the mileage would be helpful too.

Oh yea. It's 2007 Landcruiser with 165k miles on it.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Does it shudder on its way to shift to the next gear? Or it’s just a one-time jerk then shift up to the next gear when you accelerate?

 

[DesertLCruiser]

Does it shudder on its way to shift to the next gear? Or it’s just a one-time jerk then shift up to the next gear when you accelerate?

It's a one time jerk only. It doesn't jerk again until the next time I release the gas and step on the gas again.
Oh and one more thing. Lately, when I shift from N - D or N - R, it give a very slight jerk.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

From your description, the closest symptom are your universal joints on the drive shafts. Watch and try this:

 

[DesertLCruiser]

From your description, the closest symptom are your universal joints on the drive shafts. Watch and try this:

Thank you. I will try that out. I hope that's the issue. I dont wanna end up paying to fix my Transmission.

 

[BlakeLX]

My car jerks as soon as I step on the gas and then it’s runs smooth. It feels to me like it’s a transmission issue.
Did anyone face this issue with their 100 LC?
And does anyone know a mechanic in Massachusetts? Worcester, Shrewsbury, Framingham areas?

This is no doubt your slip yoke in your driveshaft. Those splines become dry and thats when you feel the slack your feeling. You need to pump it full of grease but make sure to use a grese like Amsoil with 5% MOLY. Regular bearing grease w/o 5% moly won't do the trick. I highly doubt that it's your ujoint but hit them with a regular grease as well to tighten things up and to be sure.

 

[2001LC]

You may have more than one issue going on.

Drive line clunk-thunk:
Best way to diagnose drive line clunk-thunk. Is while driving about 35MPH let off the gas pedal, CLUNK. Then without delay, press the gas pedal again THUNK.
The video makes a few mistakes in lubing the forward & aft propeller shafts (aka drive shafts)

1. Moly grease is fine for the slide yokes (aka u-joints). I do use moly for very difficult cases of drive line cluck-thunk. It can help reduce stiction. But in most cases I do not find molt necessary.
2. Typical moly is not the best choice for high speed bearings such as the spiders (aka U-joints). Moly retains heat.
3. In video he has the vehicle jacked up. This fully extends slide yokes. Which note how we can see silver or clean parts of slide yoke. So that when lubing while extended, the cavity becomes over filled. Once lowered to the ground, this over pressurizes the dive line. This can put excessive pressure on the transfer case and differential. If lubed like this (raised vehicle), we remove the grease zerks from slide yoke, then lower to the ground. This allows excess grease to flow out.
4. If slide yoke seals worn out, the grease will pass seals relatively easily. With good seals, which is indication of properly serviced propeller shafts, they don't easily allow grease to pass. In these I've special techniques for lubing when very dry. But safest is to go with Toyota's new recommendation. Lube until extension of yoke just begins and stop. This is with weight on the wheels/tire. So that vehicle is in it's neutral stance.

D-N-R clunk:
This is most often associated with worn out front drive shaft (AKA CV"s) axle and hub flange teeth/splines. Easy test for this:


New for comparison.


There are other bushing that can cause clunk. But you'll chase forever if above aren't corrected first.

Transmission:
Toyota changed the fill procedure for the 04- up. Basically we now add more fluid, than was factory filled to top off.

With transmission & Torque converter (TC) issues, we typically see is RPMs go up and not corresponding movement. Not so much a jerk. Transmission and TC can causes a jerk. But most times it not just on take-off.
They will slip or jerk between each gear typically. This is most associated with low or bad fluid.
Or they just refuse to move vehicle in either a forward gear or perhaps reverse. Shot transmission, not common in properly maintained!
Or have a shutter in certain configuration. Low fluid or moisture in fluid.

 

[Flipped Bezel]

Grease those shaft slip yokes and spiders for a start. Also be aware that excessive slack in the front cv/drive flange splines (and snap ring & groove wear) could cause a similar clunk when getting on and off of the throttle with vehicle at speed..

You can take a look at movement there by looking underneath front end with a helper in the cab of truck operating shifter lever from park to drive to reverse with brakes pressed (or use a phone with video capability if no helper). If movement of cv shaft is detected by this further diagnose condition by removing your wheel center cap and dust cap underneath it. From there you can check condition of snap ring/groove and pull drive flange to look at cv splines if warranted.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

Thank you so much guys. Thats some good info. I appreciatw your help. I'm gonna let you guys know after i send it to the dealership for greasing the Slip Yokes and U Joints and the whole drivetrain.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

You may have more than one issue going on.

Drive line clunk-thunk:
Best way to diagnose drive line clunk-thunk. Is while driving about 35MPH let off the gas pedal, CLUNK. Then without delay, press the gas pedal again THUNK.
The video makes a few mistakes in lubing the forward & aft propeller shafts (aka drive shafts)

1. Moly grease is fine for the slide yokes (aka u-joints). I do use moly for very difficult cases of drive line cluck-thunk. It can help reduce stiction. But in most cases I do not find molt necessary.
2. Typical moly is not the best choice for high speed bearings such as the spiders (aka U-joints). Moly retains heat.
3. In video he has the vehicle jacked up. This fully extends slide yokes. Which note how we can see silver or clean parts of slide yoke. So that when lubing while extended, the cavity becomes over filled. Once lowered to the ground, this over pressurizes the dive line. This can put excessive pressure on the transfer case and differential. If lubed like this (raised vehicle), we remove the grease zerks from slide yoke, then lower to the ground. This allows excess grease to flow out.
4. If slide yoke seals worn out, the grease will pass seals relatively easily. With good seals, which is indication of properly serviced propeller shafts, they don't easily allow grease to pass. In these I've special techniques for lubing when very dry. But safest is to go with Toyota's new recommendation. Lube until extension of yoke just begins and stop. This is with weight on the wheels/tire. So that vehicle is in it's neutral stance.

D-N-R clunk:
This is most often associated with worn out front drive shaft (AKA CV"s) axle and hub flange teeth/splines. Easy test for this:


New for comparison.


There are other bushing that can cause clunk. But you'll chase forever if above aren't corrected first.

Transmission:
Toyota changed the fill procedure for the 04- up. Basically we now add more fluid, than was factory filled to top off.

With transmission & Torque converter (TC) issues, we typically see is RPMs go up and not corresponding movement. Not so much a jerk. Transmission and TC can causes a jerk. But most times it not just on take-off.
They will slip or jerk between each gear typically. This is most associated with low or bad fluid.
Or they just refuse to move vehicle in either a forward gear or perhaps reverse. Shot transmission, not common in properly maintained!
Or have a shutter in certain configuration. Low fluid or moisture in fluid.

Crazy info man! Thanks a lot!! Appreciate it.

 

[2001LC]

I'd go into shop as they do the lube. So often these task are assigned to lube techs, apprentice, etc. Many do not do properly, or even get to the forward slip yoke.

 

[DesertLCruiser]

Ohh. Okay. I will try to be with the Tech. But not sure if they will allow us in there with the techs. especially in a dealrship. but will talk to them.

 

[Flipped Bezel]

Go to a parts store and buy a grease gun and tube of grease. It is pretty inexpensive to purchase and many here grease both spiders (universal joints) and slip yokes with the same quality grease to ease effort. You will use it more often than you think if you drive your Cruiser regularly.

This is super easy to do and many service centers fail to address it when performing regular maintenance. You don't want to have to be taking time to go wait there and paying a dealership a premium just to grease your driveshafts. Unless you have a generous contact there, one visit could likely pay for the grease/gun to DIY.

 

[Moridinbg]

Next steps, if greasing and flanges does not help, in order of most probable cause and amount of effort to fix - front differential bushings, then rear control arms bushings.

 

[Cetus]

Go to a parts store and buy a grease gun and tube of grease. It is pretty inexpensive to purchase and many here grease both spiders (universal joints) and slip yokes with the same quality grease to ease effort. You will use it more often than you think if you drive your Cruiser regularly.

This is super easy to do and many service centers fail to address it when performing regular maintenance. You don't want to have to be taking time to go wait there and paying a dealership a premium just to grease your driveshafts. Unless you have a generous contact there, one visit could likely pay for the grease/gun to DIY.

I've been going to Lexus for my oil changes and finally asked if they have been greasing/lubing, and to my surprise they dont do that. I went to an indy shop this past weekend and they greased them for me which came with the oil change. I'd say about 90 percent of the clunk is gone now.

 

[2001LC]

Very few shop do lube, even when work order states L,O&F, LOF, OFL, etc. One issue with those that do. They do while wheel hang free with cruiser on a lift. It should be done on alignment rack, if not on the ground. Those are drive on lifts, so wheels/tires carry weight of vehicle. This keeps vehicle in a neutral stance. Which is very import, when seal are still in good condition!

All Lexus and Toyota Dealership around here can lube, if requested! It is and extra charge and rightly so. Any shop can, they all have a grease gun somewhere. Actually having tech do and not cheat to save time is another issue.

Even when done, front grease zerk are often missed. The 100 series is hard to see or get to forward propeller shaft lubed zerk, with under shield #2 on. But it's doable. The 200 series is much more difficult to get forward propeller shaft lubed with shield on or off. It leads itself to not being done, even more so, even when rear propeller shaft is lubed.

One thing I look for in any PPI or Post inspection. Is if grease is slung on frame and components in line with grease lubing points. There rarely is much. In a well and properly maintained Cruiser with many miles on the clock. There is a ton of old grease slung around these ares.

 

[GunninIt]

I've been going to Lexus for my oil changes and finally asked if they have been greasing/lubing, and to my surprise they dont do that. I went to an indy shop this past weekend and they greased them for me which came with the oil change. I'd say about 90 percent of the clunk is gone now.

It's sad to say, but I'm never surprised what dealers DON'T do. Many of them look to get by on as little as possible, while still claiming the utmost in service standards.

Feel old saying things like this - but it used to be a lube, oil, filter included many things that are extra nowadays - tire rotation, air filters, fluid top-offs. No more! These things are extra now.