Transmission, filter and gasket

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Joined
Apr 16, 2010
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28
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88
Location
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Website
gustavocherro.blogspot.com
Hello !!!

I have intentions to change the oil in the automatic transmission of my FZJ80.

Is it advisable to change the filter or this filter can be washed?

Does anyone have the part number of the filter and carter gasket ?

Here in Argentina, not sold Auto Transmission Filter kit´s and I need to ask to Toyota......

Thank´s !!!
 
Have had several pans off and have never found any significant debris in the filter. If there is significant debris, you likely have issues that a filter isn't going to solve. It's a metal screen, clean and reinstall. I put the pan on with RTV, silicone, form a gasket from the parts store, good to go.
 
It's a metal screen, not a paper filter. If you adtually drop the pan just clean and reinstall the filter.
 
If you need to clean the screen no sense in doing that without flushing the fluid from the entire system first before reinstalling a clean screen. Something is making the screen dirty and it will get dirty again if you just drain the fluid and not flush the transmission lines and system.
 
I inquired about a new screen at my local Toyota spare parts dealer. He quoted me about $230 and after I nearly fell over from shock, he suggested unless it's damaged to just wash and reuse it, just like they do when servicing them.
 
Thank´s for the answers !!!

The transmission fluid is in excellent condition and has a beautiful red color.
It is a change that I want to do as simply maintenance.
Toyota recommends replace this filter every xx few miles ?

Thanks again
 
I don't believe Toyota calls for replacing the trans. screen (filter) at any mileage.


Thank´s for the answers !!!

The transmission fluid is in excellent condition and has a beautiful red color.
It is a change that I want to do as simply maintenance.
Toyota recommends replace this filter every xx few miles ?

Thanks again
 
Hi Gustavo,

It is a good idea to look at the bottom of your pan and filter from an inspection point of view even though you think the fluid is looking good.

I second the comments on the filter itself , it is a metal screen and all it needs is a wash. However there is a small triangular gasket where it fits and one shouldn't really replace it deformed. Might look into making my own next time.

I rang my local dealer and they don't do a gasket for the pan. Indeed the Factory Manual says use a "packing" type sealant. So, reluctantly, I did this, using an RTV brand here called Ultra-Grey Permatex.

Next time when I have spent ages cleaning the sealant off both mating surfaces, I might try a pre-purchased aftermarket TRANSGOLD filter and gasket kit item being advertised on Australian Ebay. I also believe there are US distributors for TRANSGOLD too ?
 
I realised I didn't get my signature formed in time. My name is Mitch and I have a 93 GXL with an A442F presumably equivalent to yours. Let see how the signature comes out this time ...
 
If you're going to go through the trouble of actually removing the pan, I would definitely go with a new filter instead of just cleaning the old one :meh:

Also, get a tube of Toyota FIPG :)
Toyota FIPG and not a cork or rubber gasket?
 
Correct; also, do not waste money on a new screen - Tool was right about that.
 
@ElseyCA : "Toyota FIPG and not a cork or rubber gasket?"

You can use FIPG for the transmission pan (Toyota Seal Packing 00295-01281) or a gasket. Seems like most people find that the filter is clean (metal mesh/screen). Before the pan is reinstalled clean and replace the pan magnets, some people have added a few stronger neodymium magnets to the inside bottom of the pan.

One previous discussion:


Many people have done a "Rodney Flush" of their transmission fluid without dropping the pan:



TIP: IME important to be careful when tightening the transmission pan drain plug. Always use a new Toyota crush gasket (35178-30010) and tighten it using a small wrench, do not gorilla grip the wrench and wail on it as you can spin the bung inside the pan if you over-torque the plug. If that happens the drain plug will never tighten fully and you'll have a leak/seep. IME, using a small wrench, you can feel as the metal gasket crushes down then you'll hit a wall, stop tightening at that point. Or, just follow the FSM. Be careful tightening the pan bolts also but they aren't as easy to strip compared to the pan bung.


IME if you want to remove any circulating particles some people have installed an inline transmission filter like the Magnafine. FWIW I installed an inline filter into the OUT cooler line. It's the top cooler line with a hose (longest) that runs over to the bottom right of the radiator (FZJ80 with A343F ATM). Before I did that I flushed the transmission fluid cooling circuit using Kooler Kleen (see link below). LubeGard says you don't have to flush the cleaner afterwards but if you have OCD you can hook the OUT line back up to the hard line then put the IN/Return cooler line into a bucket or aimed toward a pail and (with the transmission pan full of ATF) run the engine for a few seconds, that will pump transmission fluid through the coolers and flush out any remaining cleaning material from the cooler lines. Reconnect the line, check the ATF level before driving, check again with a fully warmed up engine/transmission (15-20 miles driving).

 
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The school solution is to remove the cooler lines at the transmission and flush the entire system with kerosene. After the kerosene runs clear, flush it again with ATF until it runs red. The entire circuit takes less than a quart of each.

I use a cheap fuel rated, 12VDC, electric pump to flush the cooler circuit.

I haven't used the Kooler Kleen, but I have a project A442F to rebuild, so I'm going to do a side by side with kerosene and see how it works. More to follow.
 
I used the Kooler Kleen on my 97 model when replacing the radiator. IIRC I hooked up the tube from the can to the hose that runs from the left lower radiator to the Auxiliary Transmission cooler then out the return hose into a pail. I didn't flush the radiator cooler as it was a new OEM (TRAD) radiator. The cleaner comes out of the can as foam under pressure but I did not notice any obvious debris in the pail. LubeGard says it doesn't have any water in their product so you don't have to flush it out but I did run the engine for just a few seconds after I saw fluid coming out from the Aux cooler return hose.
 
That would have to be nicer to deal with after the fact than kerosene, for sure. It works, but man it stays in town once it arrives.
 

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