Transfercase idler gear broke?

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Jul 30, 2006
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Location
Pierce County, Washington
I just rebuilt the transfercase in my Troopy and within 2 weeks my transfercase in my 62 went out. By that I mean it made a loud metalic bang sound; the truck didn't slow down or stop, but when i got to the house, fluid was coming out of the case. On inspection i found a crack in the case near the drain plug. I knew right away something came apart inside and impacted a gear and the side wall of the case. After taking the split case apart I found the idler gear with one tooth completey broke off and some other teeth damaged. The low range gear has a few gouged teeth but nothing broke off, so I'm cleaning it up and reusing it. I found a used idler gear for $250 and the transfercase rebuild kit for $235. To replace the transfercase is about $3600 from SOR and I haven't found it used anywhere. I'm hoping I can get the crack in the case welded up. If not, does anyone know where to get the outer case by itself?
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Holy s***, how'd that happen? Did you find any large pieces of metal (other than the teeth and oil slinger ) floating around in the case or no? Any inner bolts loosen up?

Last time I had my case apart, I saw that the oil slinger on the idler gear had broken off one of its tabs and was beginning to come apart completely. I replaced it with a brand new one before putting everything back together. I wonder if this is a little unknown weakness of the split case, that idler gear oil slinger coming apart and causing big problems:hhmm:

As for welding it up, someone that's halfway decent with a TIG welder should be able to make it solid again, but I am not sure you could weld it and retain the tolerances of the mating surface for the rear bearing retainer. Maybe jig it up with the retainer installed while welding?

You can't replace one half of the t-case by itself as it's machined as a pair at the factory. You should be able to find a used one from the local guys in FL. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys down there. If not, then check out the mud classifieds.
 
ouch..
You should post up on the wanted section... Im sure you'll score a used TC complete or just the housing for much much much much less......

Must be all them ponies coming out of that V8...
 
My oil slinger blew up too, just recently. But after I tore it apart, I found that I was supposed to install a spacer between input shaft and the input gear. The input gear was free to roam where ever it wanted. It ate up some of the aluminum case, and that slinger, but otherwise everything looked ok.

The AA adapter instructions were SO F U C K I N G S H I T T Y :( it wasnt clear on whether or not to install a spacer.

I'm really pissed with AA. They screwed both me and my buddy Matt's stuff up. He is still having problems getting the right stuff. For the amount of money you pay, the quality control is very lacking.
 
Don't weld it! find a used one here on MUD. You should expect to pay about $300-400 for a used case. Then just get a rebuild kit and you should be good to go.

Dynosoar:zilla:
 
My oil slinger blew up too, just recently. But after I tore it apart, I found that I was supposed to install a spacer between input shaft and the input gear. The input gear was free to roam where ever it wanted. It ate up some of the aluminum case, and that slinger, but otherwise everything looked ok.

The AA adapter instructions were SO F U C K I N G S H I T T Y :( it wasnt clear on whether or not to install a spacer.

I'm really pissed with AA. They screwed both me and my buddy Matt's stuff up. He is still having problems getting the right stuff. For the amount of money you pay, the quality control is very lacking.

Why didn't you use the FSM to re-assemble the t-case? I believe the AA transfer input shaft is identical to the toyota transfer input shaft.:meh:
 
Check cruiserparts.net for a used t-case or parts. they have them for a ton less than the price you listed.
 
Thanks guys

Yeah, the 5.3 Vortec probably had something to do with it and the shift kit in the 4L60E Chevy transmission doesn't help either. The truck barks the tires going into second with very little provocation. I agreed to let Randy (RT Customs, he did the conversion) put in a TCI Maximizer kit when he had the tranny apart. I knew one day it would break something. I've already ordered the idler gear and rebuild kit so getting the case welded is obviously what I hope to get done. The spot where it's cracked is where the bearing retainer/ companion flange bolt to. I think that spot can be slightly out of spec and still seal up with a gasket and plenty of sealer. I'm hoping anyway. If not, I'm looking for another outer case.
Where can I get a used outer case guys? All my usual sources don't show that particular item and I haven't even seen a used transfercase listed as available. I know a new one can be had and that's not going to happen. I'd install an Orion transfercase or similar before I'd spring for a new Toyota transfercase simply because the toyota wasn't designed for the V8's more than twice horsepower.
 
Why didn't you use the FSM to re-assemble the t-case? I believe the AA transfer input shaft is identical to the toyota transfer input shaft.:meh:

I did... just the AA instructions regarding the spacer on the input shaft were really confusing. I guess I overlooked it in the FSM too. That's why its nice to have an extra pair of eyes. I literally did everything on my engine swap myself... what can I say I'm independent.

You live and learn though... right? :doh:
 
I did... just the AA instructions regarding the spacer on the input shaft were really confusing. I guess I overlooked it in the FSM too. That's why its nice to have an extra pair of eyes. I literally did everything on my engine swap myself... what can I say I'm independent.

You live and learn though... right? :doh:

:lol: Yup, absolutely.
 
The stock Tcase is perfectly happy behind a 5.3, something else happened.

In my 60 I have a well warmed over 5.0 ferd motor to a auto with a shift kit/np203/stock tcase. The 203 doubles the torque into the stock tcase. No problems yet. Been this way since 2008 or so.

Get another stock case, be diligent about putting it back together and wheel the piss out of it.
 
I saw the results a few years ago of the keeper piece coming off and the idler shaft coming out of the rear of the case, the idler cluster smacked the bottom of the case resulting in a big gaping crack.
this was on a friends 60.
 
Give Georg at Valley Hybrids in Stockton, CA a call. He may have the case you need.

Tony
 
For what it is worth, I stripped out the threads on the drain plug for my transfer case, and Georg at Valley Hyrbrids sold me a used one for $50 when I bought the rebuild kit (bearings and seals). I was a little concerned about it mating up with the front half of the original but no issues...might ring him and see if he can help...
 
I'm interested in your case if it's usable. I sent a message to your email. I'm assuming you agree that I shouldn't try welding the crack?
 
The case should handle the power unless I have just been lucky. I have had my stock case behind my 5.3 for over 80k miles now. I used to sidestep the clutch at redline with the 35's when it was new and have never babied it. Mine also has the smaller idler gear shaft too. I think it ate the oil slinger personally.
 
Getting it welded

I have a friend who is a very good aluminum tig welder and we'll see if it looks usable when he's done. If it can be fixed, he'll do it. I'm keeping an eye out for another case though.
 
Took the back half off the transfercase

The back of the transfercase shows some damage but may be OK. I'm finding lots of metal pieces and they all look like oil slinger material. I don't remember seeing the oil slinger on my 81 HJ47.
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THAT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE MINE!!

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$2 gentleman's bet says this spacer was not installed....

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That's an installer error. I'd contact the person who did the vortec swap for you.

I know this because I made this mistake, basically the input gear is free to move toward the front of the vehicle because no spacer is holding it... then it eats the case just like that... Yours looks worse, mine is going to be salvageable, just by cleaning up the seal area, and I plan to use RTV on the seal lip.

Its a bummer. but life goes on :steer:

Make sure to use the little metal spacer on the input shaft when you re-assemble the unit.
 

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