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- #181
Trail Tailor Offerings- Racks, Sliders, Control Arms and Misc
- Thread starter TRAIL TAILOR
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Growing frustration...
Messed with the sliders for another 1-2 hours today and no matter what I do, as I tighten the nuts on the u-bolts the front of the slider moves closer and closer to the body. I've got ~1/16" (and that's being generous) between the slider and the body. I've got the rear of the slider pushed up as high as it'll go (bottom of u-bolt flush with frame) and the front of the slider pushed as low as it'll go (top of u-bolt flush with frame). Relocating the slider from front of vehicle to back and vice versa and tightening nuts results in no gain of clearance.
Here are pics. First, overall profile view, then moving from rear of slider to front, then detailed front clearances.
Any more suggestions?
Messed with the sliders for another 1-2 hours today and no matter what I do, as I tighten the nuts on the u-bolts the front of the slider moves closer and closer to the body. I've got ~1/16" (and that's being generous) between the slider and the body. I've got the rear of the slider pushed up as high as it'll go (bottom of u-bolt flush with frame) and the front of the slider pushed as low as it'll go (top of u-bolt flush with frame). Relocating the slider from front of vehicle to back and vice versa and tightening nuts results in no gain of clearance.
Here are pics. First, overall profile view, then moving from rear of slider to front, then detailed front clearances.
Any more suggestions?
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- #184
J,
The slider is following the lower rocker edge perfect in the above pic, pretty much like all the other pics posted.
J, if you're not happy I will refund your money along with the cost of the powder coating (please PM/email receipt for coating) Box them back up and take to fed ex, I'll give you my address to ship them back to me at your cost and I will gladly take them and install them on my own 100. Saves me from having to build another set before the move.
J
I very much appreciate the offer but I REALLY want to make these work. I LOVE them. I agree that it follows the edge perfectly...until it gets to the very front where it's nearly touching the vertical lip that extends down from the curved rocker panel. If not for the first inch of the slider I'd be ecstatic about the current location and clearances, high and tight. If I could just gain 1/4" at the very front then Bob's your uncle. I'm going to keep playing with it for now.
And for those following this thread and considering these sliders, don't let my issues sway you away. I'd still recommend them over any other offering. And as you can see above, Jason stands behind his product and it willing to make it right.
I'd put a jack under the front of the slider and slowly raise it to determine whether it would contact and damage the body while in use on the trail. Depending on how nervous that exercise made me, I'd start looking at body lifts.
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- #188
J's were part of that first run with yours and 4 others. I think you're going to find them to be EXTREMELY similar in dimension and fit.
J
Can't hurt to compare. You free any time tomorrow or Friday, preferably between lunch and dinner?
Edit: PM inbound
You guys may be over thinking the issue. This is a super easy fix. Just stick a washer between the slider and top of the frame and then retighten the u-bolt. It will pivot the slider out and down a hair. Add/stack washers until you get the desired gap. If you add them across the bottom of the frame it will push the slider up into the body. Add them at the top of the frame and it pushes the slider down away from body. You are simply using them as shims. My white knuckle sliders were very similar to yours and were too close for my comfort up at the front. I added one washer on the passenger side and two of the driver side to get everything perfectly level with about a 1/4"-3/8" gap all the way around. Took maybe 5 minutes of my time and about 20 cents in washers.
This ^^
I was about to suggest washers also. Pick 1 & 2 on post #184, is that the front U bolts? If so, you may need longer ones. Then add washers to adjust the slider up or down as needed.
I wrapped some duct tape around the lines in any places they made contact with the frame mounts. Not sure if it was needed but if figured it couldn't hurt. I was not doing it for damage prevention purposes; I was just afraid the lines would now rattle and they would drive me nuts.
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Gotchya. I used some 1/4" id fuel lines wrapped around the brake line but I am concerned they'll just hold moisture and rot over time as I am smack in the middle of the rust belt. Lately I was thinking some flexloom as the would let the lines breath.
That's exactly what I'm doing as well. And some zip ties. The clips are cheap, so planning to bend up some stand-offs that accept the OEM clips, but haven't gotten to it yet.
Pics 1 and 2 are the rear and middle mounts, respectively. Pic 3 is the front u-bolt. Washers would fit there. I had considered spacing it out with washers but didn't know if it was advisable. I'll play with it a bit more and if all else fails add some washers. If I add 2 or 3 washers to the top front u-bolt do y'all think I should try to throw 1 washer on the top middle u-bolt (if I can fit it) for a more gentle transition from rear to front?
Guys with the 100 racks, how much higher is this rack compared to stock? Just trying to see if I will still fit in my garage or not. Thanks!
Do you have a lift, tires, etc?
4" from the top of the roof helps, thank you. My house was built in 04, but the garage is not terribly high. I just make it in there now with about 2" to spare...I have to see how high the stock rack is now.
Makes sense to me. If you need 3 washers of movement then adding a washer or two to the middle is probably a good idea. I doubt you will need that many washers. Probably two at the front and one at the middle will be perfect.
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