Traction Control Has Activated While Taking A Curve, Twice in Two Days (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

In my case the OEM rack bushings were tooooo soft =[ Can't justify removing them to install aftermarket.

Even with this much play I don't have any issues with stability control kicking on so other parts are most likely the culprit when people have this problem.
>>

You''ll see about the same side to side movement, with new OEM rack.

I look at:
Rack side to side movement.
Bushing rubber condition, or what little can be seen. In 03- "has bushing cup turned".
Road test, for HWY wandering.
Road test for steering recovery from turns.
Inspect other front end components, that may also contribute to wandering on HWY.
Weigh in rack leaks, if any.
Weight in inner and out TRE condition.

Advantage of new OEM:
OEM mounting bushing.
OEM inner TRE's included.
 
You''ll see about the same side to side movement, with new OEM rack.

I look at:
Rack side to side movement.
Bushing rubber condition, or what little can be seen. In 03- "has bushing cup turned".
Road test, for HWY wandering.
Road test for steering recovery from turns.
Inspect other front end components, that may also contribute to wandering on HWY.
Weigh in rack leaks, if any.
Weight in inner and out TRE condition.

Advantage of new OEM:
OEM mounting bushing.
OEM inner TRE's included.
The video posted was Toyota OEM rack, bushings, hardware, inner and outter tie rods. Still moves about 1/2" or more and causing a boat like feeling.

Seems like the verdict around here is aftermarket is the only way to stiffen that up, which seems strange.
 
This problem is usually due to too much front end lift. Not one question about how much front end might be lifted- or over lifted, nor anything about the solution>>>>Zero Point Calibration, which in most cases solves this problem. Everything goes to level 10 repair and replace straight away. Start with the simple sh-t first guys then dig in further if problems persist.

Anytime you make any work to the front end, FSM calls for ZPC after.
 
I’ll add one more item to @2001LC ‘s comprehensive list of VSC-activating culprits:

If you have recently replaced or R&R’d the steering wheel, it’s possible to misalign the wheel position sensor ring and poly tabs which help the ring track with the steering wheel position. If the tabs are outside the normal “holding spot” the ring won’t turn properly. You’d likely be getting activation a lot more frequently than you are, but figured I’d put that info into this thread for others.
 
Ive done the ZPC and no luck.

It does seem pretty surprising to me that there isn't a way to pick apart the computer signals and figure out the issue. I.E. The steering wheel vs which wheel sensor vs tilt sensor. I really wish I could see the signals in detail...
 
Ive done the ZPC and no luck.

It does seem pretty surprising to me that there isn't a way to pick apart the computer signals and figure out the issue. I.E. The steering wheel vs which wheel sensor vs tilt sensor. I really wish I could see the signals in detail...

That's typical of the early traction control / stability control systems. The technology got ahead of the diagnostics. It's even worse in the 1990s European systems. Cars end up in the salvage yard just because no one wants to pay to diagnose the strange behavior of the traction control system. After experiencing this annoyance and safety breach my solution is to just avoid all vehicles with early traction control / stability control systems.
 
1998-99 hardly qualifies as “early” days of traction control. 1987 is where Toyota brought it into mainstream production.

All that said: the declining radius turns that activate TC/ABS warning buzzer and braking should first be addressed via tech stream if possible: look for stored dtc’s that might point to an electronic component failure, but either way and normally step 1 is performing a ZPC and then road test in the same zone where it was triggered to see if that remedied the condition. In most cases it will solve the problem.
 
There is a way to disable the VSC by simply grounding a wire under the column.


Basically it tricks the ECU to thinking that the CDL is engaged (VSC is disabled when CDL is switched on). I did it because my LX470 was also triggering the traction control on turns. After the replaced the rack bushings and tie rods, the steering slop was gone and I re-enabled VSC. No problems since. The rack bushings on mine were toast and was the cause for majority of the slop
 
TRAC, VSC is ABS system activating. It all start, at wheel speed sensor.

TRAC VSC or ABS activating, is due to wheel turning at differ speed than others. ABS brakes the faster spinning wheels. When this happen, while on dry solid (not loose or not slippery) surface, w/out even braking. It's it's likely a mechanical failure point or points.

If electronic issue/failure in the system. It will generally kick off a DTC.

Most common mechanical issue, is loose wheel bearings and or ball joints. So those are my first check, when no DTC confirmed. Then I look at rack & pinon, shocks, stabilizer system (bushings & links) and AHC. Any one of these or a combination, can allow unstable condition, causing a wheel speed to vary.

Control arms bushings, are another area of concern. But unless they're very bad, it's very hard to diagnose them as such or cause.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom