Traction Bar (1 Viewer)

[Mace]

the orange one pictured above isn't but our friend who has what we call the short bus (bright yellow) cruiser has leafs in the rear and origionally had the one above the axle design. When we figured out that design doesnt work he added two more below the centerline of the axle. (in addition to the leafs and one above the axle) and it works great

And either uses bushings on all ends to allow for binding issues or binds like mad...

If you designed the links EXACTLy perfectly so that they traveled in the same arc as the leaf springs it would work. But god dam that would be some work considering leaf springs do not travel in a perfect arc..

 

[projektdotnet]

And either uses bushings on all ends to allow for binding issues or binds like mad...

If you designed the links EXACTLy perfectly so that they traveled in the same arc as the leaf springs it would work. But god dam that would be some work considering leaf springs do not travel in a perfect arc..

uses the ends commonly used in 4links. Other than that not really just some tabs and it works just fine. I don't really get it either but it does. I know it should bind up like mad but it doesnt.

 

[Mace]

He might have gotten lucky, who knows

 

[Dennis@Moab]

I have a dumb question .how do you post these pics on here . so i can show off some of work. Dennis

 

[projektdotnet]

the

you'll get

 

[bandy rooster]

now come on your just looking for reasons to post that sweet color matching job paint scheme...

 

[projektdotnet]

now come on your just looking for reasons to post that sweet color matching job paint scheme...

nah...more to show off my "look ma it does kinda flex somtimes but not really" articulation . It's going under the spraygun this winter I hope. Full repaint in a matching color

 

[matt the sign]

No, it works great! Actually a friend (cruiserbrett) helped me design it. I have a V8 and 35's and am not crazy on the skinny pedal but have pushed the engine fairly hard on some uphill loose 4x4 climbs. There was a NOTICEABLE difference after installing the track bar. Before the TB it was like silly putty in the rear. I have been running this for 4+ years with no problems at all. No idea if a two bar setup is better or not but I would not hesitate to build it like this again. I would guess if you are heavy on the pedal and running huge tires then you would need something much beefier but for the general guy with a SOA and up to 37's this I think would work fine.

Noah

My cruiser was built by Cruiserbrett (5.0l V8, SOA & 35/14.5's) and I have a very similar single tb fitted and I broke a pinion when climbing in soft sand - not sure what happened, anyway of testing how effective the tb is ?

 

[projektdotnet]

Here is my setup, I have one on each side, Sorry for the filthy look

looking at the pic from the quoted post that is about how my friends run theirs (including the orange one i posted earlier)

 

[-XXX-]

When your leaf spring wraps up the pinion acts as a cushion to absorb some of the shock when traction hoping, adding a traction bar only makes the load go directly to the pinion and ring gear not the springs.
Spring overs are a common swap to do but in the long run your spring wrap becomes worse and a traction bar only magnifys the problem.

 

[Poser]

When your leaf spring wraps up the pinion has a cushion to absorb some of the shock when traction hoping, adding a traction bar only makes the load go directly to the pinion and ring gear not the springs.
Spring overs are a common swap to do but in the long run your spring wrap becomes worse and a traction bar only magnifys the problem.

Huh?





A properly fabricated and installed anti-wrap bar will not effect suspension travel and will prevent the leaf springs from twisting and the drive shaft and pinion from binding....

 

[mudpaws]

IMO that is one crappy exhaust job! I know this thread isn't about that subject, but this is an area I feel people don't do there homework. I've seen some nice trucks (and cars) where they are beautiful- however, when you look under at the exhaust, and the pipes look as though they were done in 5 minutes, or frankenwelded. Believe me, I was a victim of this. I have to put some pictures up here of the crap job in a different thread.

 

[Jetboy]

When your leaf spring wraps up the pinion has a cushion to absorb some of the shock when traction hoping, adding a traction bar only makes the load go directly to the pinion and ring gear not the springs.
Spring overs are a common swap to do but in the long run your spring wrap becomes worse and a traction bar only magnifys the problem.

At first I thought you were on crack, but now I see you don't understand what we are talking about. We are not talking about sheering a pinion from too much HP. were talking about the pinoin rotating so far that the U joint binds and snaps the pinion. It would take a lot of HP, more than most of us can muster, and more traction than we can find to twist off a fine spline pinion. Yes it can be done, but it is unusual. I think the axle shafts or ujoints will break first.

 

[Trollhole]

IMO that is one crappy exhaust job! I know this thread isn't about that subject, but this is an area I feel people don't do there homework. I've seen some nice trucks (and cars) where they are beautiful- however, when you look under at the exhaust, and the pipes look as though they were done in 5 minutes, or frankenwelded. Believe me, I was a victim of this. I have to put some pictures up here of the crap job in a different thread.

Yes that is my 5min crap job. I couldn't give a crap what it looks like under there. This is a trail rig not a beauty queen. I did my homework and guess what. I didn't want to spend the money to have someone fab something up.

Oh and I did my home work. I have a trail rig for trails not a beauty queen to show how pretty my skid plates and exhaust are.

 

[projektdotnet]

When your leaf spring wraps up the pinion has a cushion to absorb some of the shock when traction hoping, adding a traction bar only makes the load go directly to the pinion and ring gear not the springs.
Spring overs are a common swap to do but in the long run your spring wrap becomes worse and a traction bar only magnifys the problem.

ok so my friends who have been running their setups for over a year and haven't busted a pinon since are dumb then? before they used trac bars running below the centerline they all broke pinions (more than one apice).

 

[Jetboy]

Yes that is my 5min crap job. I couldn't give a crap what it looks like under there. This is a trail rig not a beauty queen. I did my homework and guess what. I didn't want to spend the money to have someone fab something up.

Oh and I did my home work. I have a trail rig for trails not a beauty queen to show how pretty my skid plates and exhaust are.

I wasn't sure if he was talking about mine or yours. Mines not pretty either. I know its routed below the cross member, but I'd rather not have the heat on the floor. I have yet to rip it off though.

I think the biggest problem with wheelers is that most of us do our welding on heavy production type welders which are really too big to work well on thin exhaust parts. I don't have a tig and end up stitch welding to keep from burning through. I make not claims about my welding ability either.

 

[matt the sign]

Here is my existing setup, it didn't work as I still broke a pinion. Can the existing set up be modified to a ladder style retaining the existing mounts and adding an additional mount lower down the axle with a bar then welded to the existing, or should I start from scratch ?

 

[TRAILTOYZ]

I wasn't sure if he was talking about mine or yours. Mines not pretty either. I know its routed below the cross member, but I'd rather not have the heat on the floor. I have yet to rip it off though.

I think the biggest problem with wheelers is that most of us do our welding on heavy production type welders which are really too big to work well on thin exhaust parts. I don't have a tig and end up stitch welding to keep from burning through. I make not claims about my welding ability either.

I use a Millermatic 175 and have to turn it all the way down to just under 1/40 on the voltage/wire speed to do exhaust or other thin stuff. It welds great on this setting and you can take your time. I think stick is the way to go on exhaust jobs though.

 

[Jetboy]

I use a Millermatic 175 and have to turn it all the way down to just under 1/40 on the voltage/wire speed to do exhaust or other thin stuff. It welds great on this setting and you can take your time. I think stick is the way to go on exhaust jobs though.

The smallest welder I have access to is a millermatic 251 and I love using it, but it's tough to get a good weld that thin. I think a little 125 or something like that would be ideal, or a tig. I've only used sticks a couple times and I don't think I would be able to do a decent job with one.

As for that wrap bar, It looks like it could be modified with the existing setup. Just add a second bar coming from the bottom of the axle or even the bottom of your current mount. then add a shackle at the end and maybe some gussets between the bars and you'd be good to go.

 

[matt the sign]

Thanks for your reply Jetboy, sounds good ... what do you guys mean by a 'shackle' would this be a Jonny joint or the same mount as the ring end of a shock absorber - or something else ???