Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (6 Viewers)

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I was specifically referring to the uhaul car carrier. With it being shorter & hauls guidance for placement, it poses its own set of challenges (like weight distribution).


There's no fear of having the weight behind the axles, there's very little space behind the axles on the uhaul anyway. They want the vehicle all the way forward, but it seems like having it back ~24" would make it much more balanced.
"All the way forward" is simpler, easier guidance for them to give, rather than to get into balancing nuances and potential liabilities as a result of that.

If you can keep the weight slightly further back than the "very front," such that more weight is over the trailer axles, AND such that weight forward of the axles is noticeably heavier than the weight behind them, then yes, that would be a good option.
 
Obligatory "I haven't read all 108 pages" but has anybody towed something like a Jeep on a UHaul car hauler (not the dolly, but the actual 'flat bed' trailer)? I'm particularly wondering about tongue weight, because UHaul's guidance is to put the tow vehicle all the way forward on the trailer, which would mean it's at "worst case scenario" for tongue weight, right?

I realize people tow on Uhaul stuff all the time so I'm probably overthinking it. The Jeep weighs 4000lbs as it sits on the trailer, but I don't have the stuff to actually measure the tongue weight. Wondering if anybody else has used a similar setup.

The uhaul trailer is well thought out and robust. Don't overthink it and load as prescribed. By design, it's meant to be used by first time users so follow the recommended loadout. Their rental system also has some validation in that it won't let you rent if you're proposing a combination that doesn't make sense.

As said, tongue weight is good. Most newbies avoid tongue weight at their own peril. The 200-series can handle some good tongue weight without issue. Several design facets of the Uhaul moderate tongue weight as they use longer draw bars. You still get the forward bias for stability, but controls the amount of tongue weight on the tow vehicle.

They are also setup with surge brakes. You can't use WD systems with that.

Your Jeep is no big deal and at 4k lbs and generally has close to even weight split across the axles.

The only variable you'll want to sort out is the hitch. Use one that gets the Uhaul trailer level. Also keep the ball as close and tight to the bumper as possible, avoiding extra projection even if it helps the tailgate clear. Reason is it minimizes leverage you're giving the trailer for sway and load, while maximizing the tow vehicle wheelbase for stability.

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how well it's going to tow
 
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The uhaul trailer is well thought out and robust. Don't overthink it and load as prescribed. By design, it's meant to be used by first time users so follow the recommended loadout. Their rental system also has some validation in that it won't let you rent if you're proposing a combination that doesn't make sense.

As said, tongue weight is good. Most newbies avoid tongue weight at their own peril. The 200-series can handle some good tongue weight without issue. Several design facets of the Uhaul moderate tongue weight as they use longer draw bars. You still get the forward bias for stability, but controls the amount of tongue weight on the tow vehicle.

They are also setup with surge brakes. You can't use WD systems with that.

Your Jeep is no big deal and at 4k lbs and generally has close to even weight split across the axles.

The only variable you'll want to sort out is the hitch. Use one that gets the Uhaul trailer level. Also keep the ball as close and tight to the bumper as possible, avoiding extra projection even if it helps the tailgate clear. Reason is it minimizes leverage you're giving the trailer for sway and load, while maximizing the tow vehicle wheelbase for stability.

I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how well it's going to tow

Thanks. Lots of great comments in this thread, but this is the one I needed to read. I'll load it as is, although based on feedback from my TJ forum, I'll be strapping down the axles rather than strapping over the tire. Strapping over the tire seems insane to me, but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I do have to get my hitch situation squared away. What I used to flat tow my TJ with my GX is only rated at 5000lbs, so I'm about to drop more cash on equipment to plug into the truck that I dropped cash on so that I could not have to flat tow with my sunk cost. I'm sure this all makes sense with girl math. :p
 
Already answered, but I’ll chime in just to agree that the U-Haul trailer is just about perfect (except the surge brakes). Use it as designed/instructed and you’ll be golden.
 
Thanks. Lots of great comments in this thread, but this is the one I needed to read. I'll load it as is, although based on feedback from my TJ forum, I'll be strapping down the axles rather than strapping over the tire. Strapping over the tire seems insane to me, but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I do have to get my hitch situation squared away. What I used to flat tow my TJ with my GX is only rated at 5000lbs, so I'm about to drop more cash on equipment to plug into the truck that I dropped cash on so that I could not have to flat tow with my sunk cost. I'm sure this all makes sense with girl math. :p
I towed my 2003 lifted Rubicon on a Uhaul trailer (not with a 200) years ago. I couldn't use their tire straps as they would not go around 35"tires. I picked up some heavy duty 25K straps to strap down the axles. Be very careful in how you route the straps over the rear axle. It is easy to damage the brake lines if you aren't careful.
But I have also towed a few other vehicles on their trailers and the tire straps work quite well.
 
Be very careful in how you route the straps over the rear axle. It is easy to damage the brake lines if you aren't careful.
Now I need to re-read all my posts to figure out at what point you discovered that I was an idiot. :p

But seriously I'm sure people have done exactly that before, but I can't for the life of me figure out how. I mean, I know how to do that, but I can't wrap my mind around actually doing that and not being aware.

Quick story: I went to the Uhaul place to figure out how much of a drop I would need and if they stuck out super far per the advice above, and also just to price out their stuff. So I "act" all dumb and the guy grabs what he thinks is going to work and we go out to the lot. We do a test hookup, and he tells me I can keep the hitch & ball. I think he just didn't want to walk back in to do the transaction, but hey, free hitch. Both pieces are rated at 7500, which is under the LC rating but higher than what I'll be pulling. I guess that's ok considering I didn't have to pay for it.

before I reveal the answer, anybody venture a guess on what a stock LC (no lift, factory tires) would need in terms of the drop on the hitch?
 
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before I reveal the answer, anybody venture a guess on what a stock LC (no lift, factory tires) would need in terms of the drop on the hitch?
6?
 
Now I need to re-read all my posts to figure out at what point you discovered that I was an idiot. :p

But seriously I'm sure people have done exactly that before, but I can't for the life of me figure out how. I mean, I know how to do that, but I can't wrap my mind around actually doing that and not being aware.

Quick story: I went to the Uhaul place to figure out how much of a drop I would need and if they stuck out super far per the advice above, and also just to price out their stuff. So I "act" all dumb and the guy grabs what he thinks is going to work and we go out to the lot. We do a test hookup, and he tells me I can keep the hitch & ball. I think he just didn't want to walk back in to do the transaction, but hey, free hitch. Both pieces are rated at 7500, which is under the LC rating but higher than what I'll be pulling. I guess that's ok considering I didn't have to pay for it.

before I reveal the answer, anybody venture a guess on what a stock LC (no lift, factory tires) would need in terms of the drop on the hitch?
5

I use an 8” drop with ~2” longer rear springs and ~1” larger radius tires. Math math math, carry the 1, and voila!
 
Now I need to re-read all my posts to figure out at what point you discovered that I was an idiot. :p

But seriously I'm sure people have done exactly that before, but I can't for the life of me figure out how. I mean, I know how to do that, but I can't wrap my mind around actually doing that and not being aware.

Quick story: I went to the Uhaul place to figure out how much of a drop I would need and if they stuck out super far per the advice above, and also just to price out their stuff. So I "act" all dumb and the guy grabs what he thinks is going to work and we go out to the lot. We do a test hookup, and he tells me I can keep the hitch & ball. I think he just didn't want to walk back in to do the transaction, but hey, free hitch. Both pieces are rated at 7500, which is under the LC rating but higher than what I'll be pulling. I guess that's ok considering I didn't have to pay for it.

before I reveal the answer, anybody venture a guess on what a stock LC (no lift, factory tires) would need in terms of the drop on the hitch?
Depends on the height of the trailer tongue.
 
Obligatory "I haven't read all 108 pages" but has anybody towed something like a Jeep on a UHaul car hauler (not the dolly, but the actual 'flat bed' trailer)? I'm particularly wondering about tongue weight, because UHaul's guidance is to put the tow vehicle all the way forward on the trailer, which would mean it's at "worst case scenario" for tongue weight, right?

I realize people tow on Uhaul stuff all the time so I'm probably overthinking it. The Jeep weighs 4000lbs as it sits on the trailer, but I don't have the stuff to actually measure the tongue weight. Wondering if anybody else has used a similar setup.

Again, you will be just fine...
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^what Chad said.

Towing said trailer with a 3800 lb car with 55/45 weight distribution. AHC doing its thing to keep the truck level.
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If that’s a manual I’ll die.
I won't say so I cannot be accused of contributing to the demise of a fellow mudder. But I can confirm the interior does rock the spaceball sport mode switch and Atacama leather. More pics and info in the Swedespeed link in my signature.
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Got back from the trip, right at 1k miles round trip. Took some getting used to having all that weight back there, but after an hour or so it really ceased being a thing I worried about. LC was definitely riding low in back, and for the return trip I had an additional 250lbs in the rear which made it ride even lower and the handling was different. But as advised here, no problem. Even had to back it up a few times w/o issue.

Left it in S6 the whole way there & monitored ATF temps. It really liked to be about 175 at the TC & 135 at the pan. Never got higher than 195 at any point. On the way home once I got out of the hills, in put it in S8…it still seemed to want to be in 6 much of the time but a lot of 7 and even some 8. Always locked up unless I was on the gas hard. Temps didn’t seem to change much, mileage maybe slightly better in the higher gears.


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Around Muskogee OK this happened. Never even felt it.

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Picked up the new trailer last weekend and spent a few days in the Pine Valley (Utah) area on the way home from Vegas. Red arc brake controller, bags in the rear, on an OME nitro charger lift. Loving the set up overall!

Wondering if I should be monitoring temps, if so, any suggestions?
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Wondering if I should be monitoring temps, if so, any suggestions

IMO, no need to at your weight level. The system is validated for capacities within its specs and will manage itself.

If you're really pushing it or just like to watch data, the tools are there.

Great looking setup!
 
Thanks for the sanity check, I don’t beat on it or anything, but it gets warm in the summer and the highway speeds or mountain climbs can be taxing. Overall it doesn’t seem like it’s struggling in any way but figured I’d ask since this is bigger than my last one.
 

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