Awesome
Makes sense right to shorten towing point to rear axle? And it is more practical/better looking. Let us know how the towing goes!
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Towing with a 200-series Toyota Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)
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Makes sense right to shorten towing point to rear axle? And it is more practical/better looking. Let us know how the towing goes!
Tomorrow is the big day. Heading 6 hours to NVAwesome
Makes sense right to shorting towing point to rear axle. And it is more practical/better looks. Let us know how the towing goes!
A few thoughts, probably motherhood for most of you;
There is a bunch I check when I tow our travel trailer, from tire pressures to lights working, breaks, roof hatches closed, windows closed and secured etc.
I also tend to visual check the RV leave spring hangers, as some are arguable not well enough made and can due to fatigue start failing. I plan to beef those up in the future. I also check axle hub temps when i fuel up (which happens every 150 miles or so...) to catch any bearings going out.
On a related topic, i like to go at 65 to 70 right lane and let just about everybody pass. That makes the drive more relaxing with typical a good free space in front of me. However you like it of course.
Enjoy the trip and take care
There is a bunch I check when I tow our travel trailer, from tire pressures to lights working, breaks, roof hatches closed, windows closed and secured etc.
I also tend to visual check the RV leave spring hangers, as some are arguable not well enough made and can due to fatigue start failing. I plan to beef those up in the future. I also check axle hub temps when i fuel up (which happens every 150 miles or so...) to catch any bearings going out.
On a related topic, i like to go at 65 to 70 right lane and let just about everybody pass. That makes the drive more relaxing with typical a good free space in front of me. However you like it of course.
Enjoy the trip and take care
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- Thread starter
- #1,744
It makes sense but for anyone doing this I suggest you double check your trailer-to-vehicle clearance when you’re jackknifed backing up. Once I had my spare on my rear bumper it was making contact with the propane tanks and would push them when I was full right and backing up. I ended up moving my tanks back a few inches.Awesome
Makes sense right to shorten towing point to rear axle? And it is more practical/better looking. Let us know how the towing goes!
For most trailers folks are probably fine but if your trailer has a short tongue it could be an issue to bring the tongue forward a few inches.
I usually drive at 70 here in UT and that puts me at the same speed or slightly slower than the 18 wheelers.
After watching a Youtube on the B&Q Continuum hitch I am curious about any real life use. Teckis what is your engineering take? It looks pretty sweet to me but I do have a concern about the hydraulics in the path of the wheel spray. I think that I would have to armour it somehow at a minimum. Of course the price is ridiculous.
I dont understand how a single torsion bar can handle any tongue weight. Any other wdh runs different bars depending on the intended tongue/trailer weight.
Interesting. Hadn't seen that one before. So in place of long mechanical spring bars and perches, they replace it with a hydraulic jacking cylinder and short spring bars. Fundamentally they all do the same job. It's certainly a more sophisticated and expensive of a solution. Probably heavier. Looks like the bits hang a bit low too?
Yeah this guy reviewed it and said the same thing. He seems to have a pretty good handle on what's important and with a few caveats, like price and hanging low, likes this hitch. It is an interesting concept. And it certainly seems to be the easiest to hook up and set. As a first generation it is pretty impressive, imo.
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According to the ordering info, it has a 2 5/16 ball.
I hadn’t noticed that. I see that you can get a 2” ball switched out at the factory. I guess that’s another first gen thing for evolution? I’ve never seen a 2 5/16” ball. Are they common?
I don’t see this hitch as viable right now but I am interested where it is going to go. The hydraulics are unprotected, there is no check valve on the cylinder so a broken hose drops your hitch, it reminded me of those oil gauges with the line coming off the engine to the dash, i could always picture my feet covered in hot oil. A lower profile may help with ground clearance if that’s an issue. But it is intriguing to me in concept.
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2 5/16” is standard on airstreams at least. I think most of your heavier stuff is.
2 5/16" is very common on larger cargo trailers, dump trailers, etc.
The problem with hydraulic tools is that they inevitably all develop leaks and require rebuilds. I wouldn't want that on a hitch. Simple is good IMO.
Look into the Andersen hitch (I have one). It's very simple to install & use, and worked great in my recent tows.
The problem with hydraulic tools is that they inevitably all develop leaks and require rebuilds. I wouldn't want that on a hitch. Simple is good IMO.
Look into the Andersen hitch (I have one). It's very simple to install & use, and worked great in my recent tows.
Touched on everything I wanted to. Simple is better here. KISS. If I had a lighter trailer, the Anderson is way up high on my list as it's just so simple.
The Equalizer is super simple too as the tongue jack does all the hard work to tension the WD bars. Just have to jack it high, throw the bars on by hand, and the act of lowering the tongue jack loads the bars. A separate hydraulic jack is probably harder and more work in some ways.
I have the Andersen hitch and I LOVE it. Especially towing my TT down miles and miles of gravel... No grease to contaminate and it's dead quiet.
I am only interested as an academic exercise. I am perfectly happy with my trunion bar hitch. It’s funny that you guys ride around on shocks on a hydraulic suspension but don’t trust a simple cylinder that gets actuated once a trip. I think that I, personally, would rather take a chance on a third generation Continuum to perform without damage than your Andersen damaging the frame. It must put an enormous amount of pressure on that set screw to hold those anchors. Okay, just kidding!!! Practicing my web behaviour!, But I think that there is potential in the hydraulic hitch.
- Thread starter
- #1,757
It looks interesting. If I was in the market for a new hitch and it wasn’t 2x the cost of my BlueOx (which I’m very happy with) I’d consider it.
First tow complete. 950 miles to Valley of Fire in Nevada, then Cathedral Gorge, then home. It was some brutal conditions on the way there. 20-30 mph headwinds the whole way and some sections where it was definitely higher than that.
There was one spot where I must have been in 40+ mph because I popped out from behind an 18 wheeler and it was like hitting a brick wall. Even at 3600 rpm I was having trouble holding 60 mph on flat ground.
I was a little surprised to see the transmission temps get pretty high. Coolant and Engine oil temps were great the whole time, but there were a few climbs where my trans temps go up in to the 240’s. This was in fairly cool weather too.
Overall, it did great. I miss the low end torque of my F150 Ecoboost, it def had more grunt down low, but the 5.7L was stronger than I thought. I also miss the 36 gallon tank, but ill fix that shortly.
There was one spot where I must have been in 40+ mph because I popped out from behind an 18 wheeler and it was like hitting a brick wall. Even at 3600 rpm I was having trouble holding 60 mph on flat ground.
I was a little surprised to see the transmission temps get pretty high. Coolant and Engine oil temps were great the whole time, but there were a few climbs where my trans temps go up in to the 240’s. This was in fairly cool weather too.
Overall, it did great. I miss the low end torque of my F150 Ecoboost, it def had more grunt down low, but the 5.7L was stronger than I thought. I also miss the 36 gallon tank, but ill fix that shortly.
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Great you made it well.
Did you flick over the shifter and put in S6 (using gears 1 to 6 only)? That is recommended when you tow say more than 3000 to 4000 lbs to keep the rpm's up in the gearbox and temps down.
Did you flick over the shifter and put in S6 (using gears 1 to 6 only)? That is recommended when you tow say more than 3000 to 4000 lbs to keep the rpm's up in the gearbox and temps down.
Yes. Only downhills did i let it shift up to 7th. Most of the time i was running S6 or S5 and on the big climbs S4. Once in a while it needed 3rd over a few of the higher passes.
I think when the trans temp spiked was running in S4 for 20 minutes in a headwind. The fuel consumption graph on the nav screen said like 5 mpg for 20 minutes straight
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