Beno (Onur), but he also suggested Radd for the bearings. I'm in CA and shipping went well from Canada. If you haven't yet made contact with Onur I would suggest it. He's quite the resource.
Totally new to Diesels: Summary of what I've learned, questions, concerns (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ClassicYotas
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #62
@mudgudgeon @Douglas S
My plans are eventually to live out of this thing.
Currently the plan is:
All 50 states, or all of the interesting ones.
If I have a good amount of my budget left, I will do the PanAmerican route.
Go back to work to save again
Then Europe.
So I want to make sure I have all the bases covered.
I plan to leave the engine stock. Maybe change the airfilter if that is even a thing.
I want to do the 3'' exhaust just to relieve more of the EGT. Then down the line intercool it. Essentially I don't want to have to worry about anything. And since I will be in the middle of nowhere most of the time, I need to monitor everything. I'm a very paranoid person haha.
That being said, still crazy to get all that stuff?
My plans are eventually to live out of this thing.
Currently the plan is:
All 50 states, or all of the interesting ones.
If I have a good amount of my budget left, I will do the PanAmerican route.
Go back to work to save again
Then Europe.
So I want to make sure I have all the bases covered.
I plan to leave the engine stock. Maybe change the airfilter if that is even a thing.
I want to do the 3'' exhaust just to relieve more of the EGT. Then down the line intercool it. Essentially I don't want to have to worry about anything. And since I will be in the middle of nowhere most of the time, I need to monitor everything. I'm a very paranoid person haha.
That being said, still crazy to get all that stuff?
- Thread starter
- #63
Last edited:
Mate, I'm envious!
I think you're thoughts of 3" exhaust, and intercooler is solid. Both will allow you to safely push the stock turbo to about 14 or 15psi (with boost controller), and you can add a little fuel to help you get a little more go from the engine, and at the same time it will all help keep EGTs down.
I would say put in an EGT gauge, and temperature gauge and call it good at that. A boost gauge is good when DIY tuning, once tuned, it's less necessary.
A multi function system lets you program in alarms to warn you if something exceeds your limits.
You don't need to monitor transmission temperature with a manual, and I think the factory oil pressure gauge is fine.
I have a 92 with Intercooler and 3" exhaust. I also have a Redarc Boost EGT and trans temp gauge. My EGT probe is pre turbo. Temperatures post turbo are not as reliable due to temperature drop across the turbo. This is a variable that is hard to quantify hence the reasoning that pre turbo is better. I have the alarm set at 600C and try not to exceed it to often. When I do exceed 600C it is always on the road. Offroad it never happens especially in not in low ratio.
With an EGT and Intercooler you can adjust boost and fuel while monitoring temperatures to ensure that you do not overheat valves and turbo impeller tips.
In my experience the 1HDT motor does not clank and vibrate if it is running correctly. Mine is as smooth as silk.
Avoid excessive idling at start up and shutdown. The engine will get up to temperature quicker if the vehicle is being driven. I have a turbo timer set to 1 minute for shutdown.
The clank during gear shifts could be due to the drive train slop that developers as things wear. The first place to start looking is the front drive flanges. They are fairly narrow on the early model 80 series. If they are worn you could replace them and the CV's with the later model ones that have thicker drive flanges and longer splines on the CV's. This can cure some of the drive train slop.
With an EGT and Intercooler you can adjust boost and fuel while monitoring temperatures to ensure that you do not overheat valves and turbo impeller tips.
In my experience the 1HDT motor does not clank and vibrate if it is running correctly. Mine is as smooth as silk.
Avoid excessive idling at start up and shutdown. The engine will get up to temperature quicker if the vehicle is being driven. I have a turbo timer set to 1 minute for shutdown.
The clank during gear shifts could be due to the drive train slop that developers as things wear. The first place to start looking is the front drive flanges. They are fairly narrow on the early model 80 series. If they are worn you could replace them and the CV's with the later model ones that have thicker drive flanges and longer splines on the CV's. This can cure some of the drive train slop.
- Thread starter
- #66
I don't plan to tune it. I am a big believer in stock engines. Air filter change maybe. Everything I want to do is to alleviate stress from the engine.
You mentioned idling. I have read conflicting information.
I read to let it idle in the beginning to let it get up to temperature, and if using it for the highway and without a gauge, to let it idle down for 5 min to let the turbo cool.
How long do you let it idle start and stop?
What is a dangerous temperature for these engines? In the same vein, what do you want the temperature to get to before you start moving it, and what temperature is a safe shut off?
A 1HD-T won't idle up to temperature in my experience. When it's cold here I can watch the water temp drop waiting at a light.
I shut down at 350F pre-turbo or lower.
I idle it for 30secs or so and then drive gingerly until it's warm.
I shut down at 350F pre-turbo or lower.
I idle it for 30secs or so and then drive gingerly until it's warm.
Diesel engines are different to gas engines. They generally don't like to be left idling.
Plus, at idle they still draw in a full cylinder of ambient air (gasser intake is throttled), idle speed is controlled by the amount of fuel available (opposite of a gas engine)
At idle, you'll get very cool combustion temps, it will take a long time to reach operating temp, this can cause cylinder walls to glaze up which stops rings sealing.
I'm one who fires it up, and drive away. Drive a bit gently for 5 minutes while it warms up.
Same with cool down, unless you're racing through the back streets to get home, there's no gain in leaving it to sit and idle.
Watch the EGT gauge, EGTs drop really quickly, so even if you've come of the highway, a few minutes driving on suburban streets well see lower EGTs cooling the turbo.
Again, diesel is different to a gas engine, gas engine EGTs are much hotter under normal running conditions.
The risk in shutting down without idling is that residual heat in the turbine and shaft can bake oil sitting in the turbo which leaves hard abrasive deposits in the oil. I don't think it's an issue in a car that sees normal use.
Plus, at idle they still draw in a full cylinder of ambient air (gasser intake is throttled), idle speed is controlled by the amount of fuel available (opposite of a gas engine)
At idle, you'll get very cool combustion temps, it will take a long time to reach operating temp, this can cause cylinder walls to glaze up which stops rings sealing.
I'm one who fires it up, and drive away. Drive a bit gently for 5 minutes while it warms up.
Same with cool down, unless you're racing through the back streets to get home, there's no gain in leaving it to sit and idle.
Watch the EGT gauge, EGTs drop really quickly, so even if you've come of the highway, a few minutes driving on suburban streets well see lower EGTs cooling the turbo.
Again, diesel is different to a gas engine, gas engine EGTs are much hotter under normal running conditions.
The risk in shutting down without idling is that residual heat in the turbine and shaft can bake oil sitting in the turbo which leaves hard abrasive deposits in the oil. I don't think it's an issue in a car that sees normal use.
As others have said EGT's drop very quickly in Diesel engines. EGT's are a function of fuel in the 1HDT engine. There is no throttle butterfly so the engine draws all the air it wants. If I get to 600C under load all I have to do is ease off a little bit and the EGT will drop very quickly. Driving around suburban streets EGT is between the bottom of the gauge and 350C. I generally just let the turbo timer deal with shut down except at home because I don't want to idle my truck in the garage. By the time I get home from any highway running my EGT is barely readable.
- Thread starter
- #70
@mudgudgeon @Sarmajor
I live off a highway, so essentially its start it, let it idle for a minute and drive 2 blocks onto the highway.
To turn off I park it and let it idle for 5 minutes.
Do you both recommend I change my habbit?
Previous owner installed a turbo timer. I don't know how to use it. I asked him about it and he said he stopped using it but he used to set to turbo for 30 seconds after cool down.
I live off a highway, so essentially its start it, let it idle for a minute and drive 2 blocks onto the highway.
To turn off I park it and let it idle for 5 minutes.
Do you both recommend I change my habbit?
Previous owner installed a turbo timer. I don't know how to use it. I asked him about it and he said he stopped using it but he used to set to turbo for 30 seconds after cool down.
Running for a couple minutes before hitting the highway should be sufficient, so long as you aren't doing full throttle pulls as you pull onto the highway, it won't be up to operating temp without driving a bit, but everything should be properly oiled by that point. As for shutdown, I've got a turbo timer set to 2 min, it takes more like a minute of idling to bring the EGT's down to 350F even if you just pulled onto the shoulder on the highway, which is really all you're trying to accomplish by idling down before shutting off. 5 min is excessive IMO.
As for the turbo timer, I've got one integrated into my command start (which I never use as the truck won't warm up from idling, lol), it's activated by pulling the ebrake and removing the key, truck runs another 2 min and shuts down.
- Thread starter
- #72
Thank you for the response.
That is a pretty cool way to engage the turbo timer.
Also, do you do this even when you go to the grocery store or get gas? Let it idle down for 2 minutes even though you're about to start it again? Then let it idle back up?
Last edited:
My HDJ81 had a turbo timer.
I rarely used it. Partly because I wasn't 100% comfortable leaving the car parked in neutral and walking away from it knowing I was relying on the pathetic Toyota hand brake
Once it's warm, fire it up and drive as normal, no special treatment required. Oil pressure should be up in seconds, and every thing is warm, so good to go.
Yes, I'll pull the ebrake and let it idle (if it's hot), even if I'm going to be starting it again in a few minutes. I don't let it idle when I start it back up, I just start driving again.
Mine works with the trans in park and ebrake pulled just enough that the dash light comes on, is yours a manual trans?
I think, even with you living a couple of blocks from the highway, there's not a lot of value in leaving it idling down IMHO.
Just ease off for the last few miles before you get home, that way EGTs drop, plus you have good air cooling at highway speeds.
If your run home consisted of pulling 70mph, up hill for the last 5 minutes of your trip, then immediately parking it, then yeah, the turbo timer might be a good idea.
YMMV
Everyone has different comfort zone and habits. Do what you're comfortable with.
Just ease off for the last few miles before you get home, that way EGTs drop, plus you have good air cooling at highway speeds.
If your run home consisted of pulling 70mph, up hill for the last 5 minutes of your trip, then immediately parking it, then yeah, the turbo timer might be a good idea.
YMMV
Everyone has different comfort zone and habits. Do what you're comfortable with.
Yep, ive only ever owned manual 4wds
I let my Cummins go down to 300 degrees or less before shutting down. I realized that rebuilding the turbo was not that hard but I still like to not do damage. Other than that I start driving once oil pressure is up, which is about 5 seconds.
