Torque Steer on newly lifted LC (1 Viewer)

[linuxgod]

That said, you could off center our rear axle quite a few degrees from a 3" lift and you won't see any real help. You simply have a bad front end alignment. Most alignment shops don't want to start over with your cams, so they just move one or two around till they get green lights, aaaannnd good!

I'd bet you don't have enough cross camber to the left to compensate for road crown (which the old timers say you can't plan for, but I say at least try) and some cross caster to the right.

The alignment shop I went to is awesome. They do nothing but suspensions and alignments and specialize in track cars and lifted trucks. It's two guys (one who is probably 60 and owns the place, and a second ASE-certified suspension guy who has been doing this for 10 years). IIRC he said he set the front right caster as far positive as it would go, then set the camber as far negative as he could (which was still almost 1 degree positive). Left camber was set 0.5 degree lower to compensate for the road crown, and left caster was set as far positive as he could reasonably set it while keeping camber within spec. He said he also set the toe closer to 0 as he could since the A/T tires are heavier and stickier. He definitely had to pop the cam bolts loose to adjust them. Here's the printout:

If you have alignment specs you'd recommend for my truck let me know and I'll get him to readjust. I'm going to put a set of SPC UCAs on since I want more caster and a bit less camber, particularly for towing (which is probably half my driving every year), since my steering feels a bit loose when I'm loaded way down, so I'm going to need him to realign anyway.

Since you talk about different length driveshafts causing torque steer, that makes me think the issue is related to my lean. The left side is higher, so the CV angle on the left side is steeper. Not sure if this is right but I'm envisioning walking around with my left shoe on but not the right one - leaning to my right because my left leg is longer, and consequently my left leg is pushing me to the right. Tony, I assume you don't have any issues with your truck pulling under acceleration? My pull is definitely stronger the harder I step on the pedal.

 

[TonyP]

The alignment shop I went to is awesome. They do nothing but suspensions and alignments and specialize in track cars and lifted trucks. It's two guys (one who is probably 60 and owns the place, and a second ASE-certified suspension guy who has been doing this for 10 years). IIRC he said he set the front right caster as far positive as it would go, then set the camber as far negative as he could (which was still almost 1 degree positive). Left camber was set 0.5 degree lower to compensate for the road crown, and left caster was set as far positive as he could reasonably set it while keeping camber within spec. He said he also set the toe closer to 0 as he could since the A/T tires are heavier and stickier. He definitely had to pop the cam bolts loose to adjust them. Here's the printout:

View attachment 1521722

If you have alignment specs you'd recommend for my truck let me know and I'll get him to readjust. I'm going to put a set of SPC UCAs on since I want more caster and a bit less camber, particularly for towing (which is probably half my driving every year), since my steering feels a bit loose when I'm loaded way down, so I'm going to need him to realign anyway.

Since you talk about different length driveshafts causing torque steer, that makes me think the issue is related to my lean. The left side is higher, so the CV angle on the left side is steeper. Not sure if this is right but I'm envisioning walking around with my left shoe on but not the right one - leaning to my right because my left leg is longer, and consequently my left leg is pushing me to the right. Tony, I assume you don't have any issues with your truck pulling under acceleration? My pull is definitely stronger the harder I step on the pedal.

Nope. No pull issues on flat roads. Most roads here in Utah are heavily crowned so it drifts to the right a bit due to that.

I'd start with swapping the springs and resetting the kdss.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

They are labeled RH and LH. The RH spring was 30mm taller. There was a sticker on the springs that said "Instructions are for Australian models. For US models, install the taller spring on the driver's side!" When I removed the old springs (which had 65k on them), the taller Toyota spring was on the RH side. But when I specifically emailed Tough Dog they said:

"In RHD vehicles, the Driver sits there so a slightly higher coil is fitted to cope with the slightly higher weight. Usually the higher coil goes with the Driver side, so in the US the LHD side would take the higher coil. Coil rates as the same for both sides".​

So when I did the install I put the taller spring on the LH (drivers) side. Tony, if you didn't put the RH spring on the LH side like me, that explains why you are level and I am not.

I need to crawl under the truck and measure the installed spring height on each side. Assuming a ~20mm difference in compressed height swapping the springs should get me perfectly level (i.e. reduce the LH side by 20mm and increase the RH side by 20mm is ~1.5"). Most likely will be labor day weekend before I can actually swap them though.

(I'm assuming btw that most of my front difference is due to the rear spring height being incorrect and that it will level out when I swap the rears... if not then that will be my next issue).

30mm difference! Over an inch, wow. Umm, I'm sorry, I didn't know they were that much different. The stock and OME springs are within 10mm, which is all you need to compensate for the weight of the fuel tank. The front of our trucks is incredibly well distributed so no difference of coil height is needed in the front. No wonder you have lean, good god, this is why I keep going back to OME, never been a tough dog fan. So yea, I would still put higher spring on passenger side, the steering column, master cylinder, and battery don't weight as much as the fuel tank/pump and 155 pounds of fuel, and the spare sitting on the passenger side.

The alignment shop I went to is awesome. They do nothing but suspensions and alignments and specialize in track cars and lifted trucks. It's two guys (one who is probably 60 and owns the place, and a second ASE-certified suspension guy who has been doing this for 10 years). IIRC he said he set the front right caster as far positive as it would go, then set the camber as far negative as he could (which was still almost 1 degree positive). Left camber was set 0.5 degree lower to compensate for the road crown, and left caster was set as far positive as he could reasonably set it while keeping camber within spec. He said he also set the toe closer to 0 as he could since the A/T tires are heavier and stickier. He definitely had to pop the cam bolts loose to adjust them. Here's the printout:

View attachment 1521722

If you have alignment specs you'd recommend for my truck let me know and I'll get him to readjust. I'm going to put a set of SPC UCAs on since I want more caster and a bit less camber, particularly for towing (which is probably half my driving every year), since my steering feels a bit loose when I'm loaded way down, so I'm going to need him to realign anyway.

Since you talk about different length driveshafts causing torque steer, that makes me think the issue is related to my lean. The left side is higher, so the CV angle on the left side is steeper. Not sure if this is right but I'm envisioning walking around with my left shoe on but not the right one - leaning to my right because my left leg is longer, and consequently my left leg is pushing me to the right. Tony, I assume you don't have any issues with your truck pulling under acceleration? My pull is definitely stronger the harder I step on the pedal.

I didn't mean to question the shop you choose or the people behind it, not my intent, but as most know on this forum, it's hard to impress me, but I'm not a hater, I just question a lot in an attempt to find the "best" I can of something. But so you know, I've had A1-8 ASE certifications for over 10 years also, never took a class, grew up in a shop and learned from custom car builders. And one of those guys, Frank Linney, would always tell me to "be careful of the guy who says he's been doing it 50 years, he doesn't want to learn and get better, so he will never be a good builder." I took that stuff to heart, which is I am who I am.

You are cross cambers to the RIGHT! so whoever did the alignment has never heard of road crown or didn't care about it, the side with more camber is the direction the vehicle will pull to. So that alignment shop that specializes in suspension set you up to pull right on top of a road that drifts you right.

Caster, you are about 1.5˚ from factory spec, that would explain wander, not the shops fault, but an aftermarket upper control arm would be of benefit. I personally prefer Total Chaos, but SPC is fine as the strength is only slightly, and I mean slightly weaker than stock.

Toe: they toed in your left side (a bit more for my taste, but no harm done), but they didn't toe in your right, so your left wheel is pushing right, but your right wheel isn't countering back, so with every bump, you continue to get pushed right, adding to your constant rightward drift and pull. The term "toed in" is to set both wheel in about 1/16" to 1/32" (I shoot for 1/32" per side, not 3/32" like your left) that makes the two tire high against each other to cause the truck to push strait down the road, instead of fighting to get away from each other cause more driver input.

I would give my specs, but you need to at least start from a good base instead of the bad alignment they gave you.

Front Caster 2.9±0.75

Front Camber 0.13±0.75
set your left camber to +.6-.8 and go UP from there. You can go as high as +1.5 before any additional wear happens

Front Toe (degrees) 0.24°±0.16°

Front Toe (inches) 0.12±0.08"


Now @linuxgod, I absolutely do not mean to come off like "look, I know more," I'm truly genuine and just want you to have the best you can have because you've worked hard for it. But this was just another case of, "these guys are great." No... they are not, in fact in my small opinion they are very thick headed if they think that was a good alignment, they are what Frank warned me about early in my life, someone been doing it the wrong way their whole life, and making you have to deal with their limitations. Because obviously, almost every part of your alignment is going to pull you right.

 

[linuxgod]

No offense, I've read you other posts on alignment shops so I totally know where you're coming from.

I considered Total Chaos, but then I keep hearing about more maintenance required and opted for the cheap route.

Anything special you'd do if you were towing a lot, knowing that it's going to lift your front end a bit? Would you reduce camber and/or increase caster?

Man this sucks, because they are considered the best alignment shop in Chicago. Seriously wish I lived farther from civilization where people drive their LCs to anywhere but the mall. Ugh.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

No offense, I've read you other posts on alignment shops so I totally know where you're coming from.

I considered Total Chaos, but then I keep hearing about more maintenance required and opted for the cheap route.

Anything special you'd do if you were towing a lot, knowing that it's going to lift your front end a bit? Would you reduce camber and/or increase caster?

Man this sucks, because they are considered the best alignment shop in Chicago. Seriously wish I lived farther from civilization where people drive their LCs to anywhere but the mall. Ugh.

Glad I came off as sincere, it's hard to convey that with just words, I talk to @Markuson about how I sound all the time, and he tones me down when I need to.

For alignment while towing, I don't change any alignment specs unless I align the tow vehicle with the trailer. That way you can also incorporate the whole rig to go the way you want it down the road. Unless you can get into a semi-frame repair and alignment shop, then getting the best alignment to just the tow vehicle is all you would want to do.

You're totally right on Total Chaos arms, much more maintenance, that's why I still recommend people to SPC upper arms if they want a set and forget setup, escpecially if long washboard trails are limited in their future (not to say the SPCs can't handle it, but they you need to monitor the balljoint as it's bolted on instead of pressed)

I know your frustration about shops, it's tough, but you'll find a good one, or maybe you can just talk to them about your current setup that you are not happy for the reason I mentioned.

I would tell you to drive south a bit to Danville, that's where I grew up in that shop I told you about, but a lot of the guys are dead now, and they don't mess with much full time four wheel drive vehicle anymore. So it may be a last ditch if you still are having bad results.

 

[indycole]

Glad I came off as sincere, it's hard to convey that with just words, I talk to @Markuson about how I sound all the time, and he tones me down when I need to.

For alignment while towing, I don't change any alignment specs unless I align the tow vehicle with the trailer. That way you can also incorporate the whole rig to go the way you want it down the road. Unless you can get into a semi-frame repair and alignment shop, then getting the best alignment to just the tow vehicle is all you would want to do.

You're totally right on Total Chaos arms, much more maintenance, that's why I still recommend people to SPC upper arms if they want a set and forget setup, escpecially if long washboard trails are limited in their future (not to say the SPCs can't handle it, but they you need to monitor the balljoint as it's bolted on instead of pressed)

I know your frustration about shops, it's tough, but you'll find a good one, or maybe you can just talk to them about your current setup that you are not happy for the reason I mentioned.

I would tell you to drive south a bit to Danville, that's where I grew up in that shop I told you about, but a lot of the guys are dead now, and they don't mess with much full time four wheel drive vehicle anymore. So it may be a last ditch if you still are having bad results.

Danville, IL? Small world. I grew up across the state line in Covington and worked in a lube shop as an early teen in Danville. My parents still live nearby. I'm not sure I'd send anyone to Danville for anything aside from some crack

 

[Markuson]

Glad I came off as sincere, it's hard to convey that with just words, I talk to @Markuson about how I sound all the time, and he tones me down when I need to.

Ha! True! But that just means he values input, which I appreciate.

One thing I can tell you about Taco... He is just as skeptical/critical ofHIS OWN GEAR and wants to identify what's best.. It's just how he processes gear and identifies what he wants. I'd also add that anyone who thinks Rob (Taco) is too whatever...really might want to talk to him via the phone sometime. You will quickly discover a friendly, helpful dude who has a lot of experience to draw from that has formed the basis for opinions...but also a guy whose mind is never permanently made up--because things progress...brands progress...as does experience.

 

[linuxgod]

I manage finance tech guys all day who have zero filter, zero empathy, and pretty much say whatever is on their mind. Like if Sheldon Cooper from the Big Bang Theory merged with Moss from The IT Crowd. They're all weird introverts who regularly offend people unintentionally. So it takes a lot to offend me

Btw the alignment tech did mention trying to account for road crown, but 1.6 set of right caster was the max he could dial in and 0.9 deg of camber was as low as the right side would go at that caster setting. So maybe it was a compromise between some drift vs not enough caster (cause he'd have to dial back the caster to lower camber?)

Not sure about spring height differences between TD and OME. Are all OME springs 10mm different or just a certain coil ratings? The light duty TD springs are 240#/in. I suspect if Tony is running heavies (maybe 350-400#/in?) he might have less (or even no) difference in height since they wouldn't sag as much which might be why he didn't notice a difference in height. I'd need Jason at Trail Tailor to weigh in there. I went with TD because I kept hearing OME nitros were harsh now. Maybe BP51s in 5 years...

The tech did say he expected the alignment to improve a bit as the suspension settled. The more I think about it and your explanation the more I think it's the front CV angle and the lean causing most of my pull. Will swap the springs around Labor Day and get the UCAs in and realigned with your recommendations in mind.

 

[TonyP]

I suspect if Tony is running heavies (maybe 350-400#/in?) he might have less (or even no) difference in height since they wouldn't sag as much which might be why he didn't notice a difference in height.

I also have a fair bit of rear weight on a regular basis. The weight is distributed though (spare on driver's side, the tool drawer (very heavy) is on the passenger). While towing one of my geriatric BMWs on a poorly balance/built, dual axle, trailer I had very little sag relative to the rather high tongue weight. The sag was even though.

I still recommend swapping springs and reset KDSS as a start. It's super easy to do with common hand tools.

 

[Tripledave]

Hey @Tripledave, did you ever resolve this? I have a very similar pull with my newly lifted 200. In my case I need to hold the steering wheel slightly to the left (at about the 11:30 mark) when going down the road, but under acceleration it pulls to the right, and when letting off the gas I'm pulling back to the left.

I need to swap the rear springs so I'm hopeful this clears up after I swap them (and hopefully the truck is level again) but I have a suspicion there may be something else at play here. (FWIW I have about 1.25-1.5" of cruiser lean in the rear and 0.75" in the front... Tough Dog said to put the taller spring on the driver's side, which I did, but the taller OEM Toyota spring was on the passenger side so I think for the 2013 model year they were incorrect)

@Taco2Cruiser, can you elaborate on "Also, your rear end is not causing any torque steer (I could go into that more if you want)"? Or at least can you describe how you would know if you did need a rear panhard rod?

Hey Linux thanks for reviving this. I'm so lazy and busy that I haven't done anything other than rotate tires, like Taco said though, no dice. I guess I'll prob get under there and replace the tie rod ends as well as go through most other underpinnings when it cools off here in N. Texas. I've actually kinda gotten used to it but that'll just make it so much better when I finally address the issue(s).

 

[linuxgod]

I also have a fair bit of rear weight on a regular basis. The weight is distributed though (spare on driver's side, the tool drawer (very heavy) is on the passenger). While towing one of my geriatric BMWs on a poorly balance/built, dual axle, trailer I had very little sag relative to the rather high tongue weight. The sag was even though.

I still recommend swapping springs and reset KDSS as a start. It's super easy to do with common hand tools.

Yeah that's the first fix I'll attempt since MScruiser's KDSS-compression trick has done nothing for me and I highly suspect it's the lean culprit.

I've pulled the springs twice before (once to install the air bags, and the second time for the lift) and each time the left spring comes out easier than the right. Both times I unbolted the KDSS sway bar and getting that back into position was a b*tch. And I did that while the truck was on a lift, so I had a lot more leverage than doing it on jack stands in my driveway. Any advice to make the swap easier? Wondering if I can (safely) ratchet strap the springs while they're compressed on the vehicle so they come out easier?

 

[TonyP]

Yeah that's the first fix I'll attempt since MScruiser's KDSS-compression trick has done nothing for me and I highly suspect it's the lean culprit.

I've pulled the springs twice before (once to install the air bags, and the second time for the lift) and each time the left spring comes out easier than the right. Both times I unbolted the KDSS sway bar and getting that back into position was a b*tch. And I did that while the truck was on a lift, so I had a lot more leverage than doing it on jack stands in my driveway. Any advice to make the swap easier? Wondering if I can (safely) ratchet strap the springs while they're compressed on the vehicle so they come out easier?

Did you unbolt the lower shock mounts and slide the shock out of the mount?

 

[linuxgod]

Did you unbolt the lower shock mounts and slide the shock out of the mount?

Yep. And 3 full turns to open both KDSS screws. I'm positive that 2 turns opens the valves sufficiently. Ask me how I know.

As my mechanic buddy said, the suspension on my LC seems to be tighter than a nun's nasty.

 

[TonyP]

Yep. And 3 full turns to open both KDSS screws. I'm positive that 2 turns opens the valves sufficiently. Ask me how I know.

As my mechanic buddy said, the suspension on my LC seems to be tighter than a nun's nasty.

If you put jack stands supported on the frame, jack under the axle, unbolt the swaybar to axle mounts (two bolts per side), pull out the bottom shock mounts, lower the jack/axle, the springs will literally fall out when you lower the axle. The swaybar mount are (or were for me) very easy to get back in .

 

[linuxgod]

BTW when I say hard to get out, I mean one person with some leverage on a 3' prying bar is sufficient to pull the right side down enough that the other person can wiggle the spring free. The rears are nothing like trying to get the front out.

I found the swaybar mounts tough to get reinstalled. The KDSS sway bar required a ton of prying to get realigned just right. Didn't seem to matter if the shocks were reinstalled or not. Should I be jacking the axle back upwards (or lowering the vehicle) to reinstall them? If I'm doing this myself and can avoid removing them it would make my life sooooo much easier since my 9 year old isn't going to be nearly as helpful with the leverage.

My springs won't fall out because the air bags are inside the coil, but easy to remove would be wonderful.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Danville, IL? Small world. I grew up across the state line in Covington and worked in a lube shop as an early teen in Danville. My parents still live nearby. I'm not sure I'd send anyone to Danville for anything aside from some crack

That's funny. Yeah I grew up inside south east Chicago in a project community in the late 80s and 90s. Danville was actually were I was sent to get away from the drugs and killlings. So that's where I learned to build cars. Just a ten year old rebuilding race motors, welding frames together, and setting up suspensions. But more of the kids got shot on the way home, so I was sent to the Mexican boarder to live with some family. Found more drugs being ran across the boarder and more killings. So I figured I was good at this stuff so I joined the Army, and been fighting this little war since it started. Sadly I feel I know a lot more about death than living, so that's why I'm very passionate about people using what money they have to go and enjoy things, because life is short... very short.

I manage finance tech guys all day who have zero filter, zero empathy, and pretty much say whatever is on their mind. Like if Sheldon Cooper from the Big Bang Theory merged with Moss from The IT Crowd. They're all weird introverts who regularly offend people unintentionally. So it takes a lot to offend me

Btw the alignment tech did mention trying to account for road crown, but 1.6 set of right caster was the max he could dial in and 0.9 deg of camber was as low as the right side would go at that caster setting. So maybe it was a compromise between some drift vs not enough caster (cause he'd have to dial back the caster to lower camber?)

Not sure about spring height differences between TD and OME. Are all OME springs 10mm different or just a certain coil ratings? The light duty TD springs are 240#/in. I suspect if Tony is running heavies (maybe 350-400#/in?) he might have less (or even no) difference in height since they wouldn't sag as much which might be why he didn't notice a difference in height. I'd need Jason at Trail Tailor to weigh in there. I went with TD because I kept hearing OME nitros were harsh now. Maybe BP51s in 5 years...

The tech did say he expected the alignment to improve a bit as the suspension settled. The more I think about it and your explanation the more I think it's the front CV angle and the lean causing most of my pull. Will swap the springs around Labor Day and get the UCAs in and realigned with your recommendations in mind.

All OME rear coils has a 10mm difference in height to compensate for the fuel tank. And IT hu? Well for fun, 'cause I have no idea how you guys do that stuff (my brother is in cyber security) here is someone like me in your job.

Yeah that's the first fix I'll attempt since MScruiser's KDSS-compression trick has done nothing for me and I highly suspect it's the lean culprit.

I've pulled the springs twice before (once to install the air bags, and the second time for the lift) and each time the left spring comes out easier than the right. Both times I unbolted the KDSS sway bar and getting that back into position was a b*tch. And I did that while the truck was on a lift, so I had a lot more leverage than doing it on jack stands in my driveway. Any advice to make the swap easier? Wondering if I can (safely) ratchet strap the springs while they're compressed on the vehicle so they come out easier?

@TonyP got all the right ideas. I unbolt the shock from the top as that is easier for me. But I use coil compressors, I attach them while load is on the spring and that helps get them out quicker. When putting them back in, I just compress the new spring a few inches to make quick work of installing the springs as then I can do not much more than unbolting the top shock mount. A technique, not the do all end all.

 

[TonyP]

BTW when I say hard to get out, I mean one person with some leverage on a 3' prying bar is sufficient to pull the right side down enough that the other person can wiggle the spring free. The rears are nothing like trying to get the front out.

I found the swaybar mounts tough to get reinstalled. The KDSS sway bar required a ton of prying to get realigned just right. Didn't seem to matter if the shocks were reinstalled or not. Should I be jacking the axle back upwards (or lowering the vehicle) to reinstall them? If I'm doing this myself and can avoid removing them it would make my life sooooo much easier since my 9 year old isn't going to be nearly as helpful with the leverage.

My springs won't fall out because the air bags are inside the coil, but easy to remove would be wonderful.

Yes, you can use the jack to lift the axle to the right position to get the bar mounts in. There's probably one little thing you're overlooking that's making it difficult to get the mounts back in. It happens to me all the time when working on vehicles.

If the bar is unbolted and the lower (or upper) shocks are removed the axle will basically just flop around there supported by the upper and lower links (and a few other bits). Keep an eye on your brake lines and diff vent, they'll be fine but just be mindful.

Bolt the lower (or upper) shock mounts up last. You can manually extend or contract the shock to get the right height by hand so they're the easiest part of the whole procedure.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I manage finance tech guys all day who have zero filter, zero empathy, and pretty much say whatever is on their mind. Like if Sheldon Cooper from the Big Bang Theory merged with Moss from The IT Crowd. They're all weird introverts who regularly offend people unintentionally. So it takes a lot to offend me

Btw the alignment tech did mention trying to account for road crown, but 1.6 set of right caster was the max he could dial in and 0.9 deg of camber was as low as the right side would go at that caster setting. So maybe it was a compromise between some drift vs not enough caster (cause he'd have to dial back the caster to lower camber?)

Not sure about spring height differences between TD and OME. Are all OME springs 10mm different or just a certain coil ratings? The light duty TD springs are 240#/in. I suspect if Tony is running heavies (maybe 350-400#/in?) he might have less (or even no) difference in height since they wouldn't sag as much which might be why he didn't notice a difference in height. I'd need Jason at Trail Tailor to weigh in there. I went with TD because I kept hearing OME nitros were harsh now. Maybe BP51s in 5 years...

The tech did say he expected the alignment to improve a bit as the suspension settled. The more I think about it and your explanation the more I think it's the front CV angle and the lean causing most of my pull. Will swap the springs around Labor Day and get the UCAs in and realigned with your recommendations in mind.

G,

You and I have both deferred to TD on the installation. I installed a set for a customer in May and he was less than 1/4" on the rear side to side. The TD coils are 7.2 wraps vs. the OME 7.2 wraps, a 2724 coil which is the closest OME coil to the TD coil you are running. The TD coil is a 18mm wire and the 2725 in a 21mm wire. TD springs range from equal heights to 35mm differences pending the rate, style and vehicle. Your front strut coils are the same height. Weights are absorbed differently on each style of spring. King, TD, EFS, Ironman, OME, etc.. all have different design parameters and specs, but all have the same theory in mind.

TD 200-931L coil is a 240# rate (0-660# range) 20mm over stock (475/445mm)
OME 2724 is a 400# rate (440-800# range) 3/4" over stock (445/435mm)

The 3mm wire and free height difference allows the TD coil to be softer ride when unloaded and allow for a larger weight load range overall.

TD only has three broad range coils. Their light coil is in the range of every other manufacturers heavy coil but with a lighter wire diameter.

Light 0-660#
Constant 661-1100#
Constant Plus 1101-1500#

Both TD and OME are made in the same factory with the same X5K German steel on the same machines. King has been making the TD springs for decades. I know OME has had theirs made by King for quite awhile as well. I imagine since the first reproducible coils came into being for both companies.

@TonyP has the TD200-931HL 275# rate with 455/425 height and 19mm wire (661-1100# range) 7.2 wraps.

J

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks for the info @reevesci. No idea why my setup seems to be so different from others and introducing so much lean. It's always had a slight (~1/2") lean, and I've actually noticed even beforehand that my PS headlight is aimed low and left while my DS headlight is aimed high and straight on, so maybe mine thinks it is actually an Aussie cruiser?

Thanks @TonyP, IIRC I reattached the sway bar with the shocks bolted on last time, so maybe I'll try it differently this time.

@Taco2Cruiser - nice. Yeah I started as an IT guy. Moved to management a few years ago just to do something different. Also I was disappointed when PC makers stopped installing those nice mechanized cup holder trays in their PCs but you can't stop progress I suppose.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Thanks for the info @reevesci. No idea why my setup seems to be so different from others and introducing so much lean. It's always had a slight (~1/2") lean, and I've actually noticed even beforehand that my PS headlight is aimed low and left while my DS headlight is aimed high and straight on, so maybe mine thinks it is actually an Aussie cruiser?

Thanks @TonyP, IIRC I reattached the sway bar with the shocks bolted on last time, so maybe I'll try it differently this time.

@Taco2Cruiser - nice. Yeah I started as an IT guy. Moved to management a few years ago just to do something different. Also I was disappointed when PC makers stopped installing those nice mechanized cup holder trays in their PCs but you can't stop progress I suppose.

G,

As Tony said, I'd swap the rear cols and reset the KDSS. Maybe TD is wrong on the US/LHD version spring swap. People are wrong all the time, even the ones in the "know" from my experience.

J