Torfab 80 Series Front Axle Conversion Kit – At Home Install (2 Viewers)

[Bullzi]

Thank you!

So for paint, I have tried a bunch of things over the years… like you said, people either love or hate the POR15. I personally don’t like it. I followed all the instructions carefully and did all the steps, but it still peeled off in sheets.
I like Chassis Saver by Magnum Paints better, but only in certain applications. I found that if you sandblast something and then use the Chassis Saver, it sticks like glue. If you have surface rust, it sticks okay but it doesn’t get rid of the rust. It encapsulates it so it won’t spread, but if you sand it off the rust is still there. Clean metal has to be really roughed up for the Chassis Saver to stick…that’s why sand blasting is so good.

Lately I’ve found that cleaning everything to bright shiny metal is the way to go (if you can). Then you don’t have to worry about the rust popping back up. I have been really liking Eastwood’s Platinum Rust Encapsulator. It can go over roughed up clean metal, painted areas and rust. I then top coat that with spray paint (choose your favorite).
I have done this on multiple sections of my frame and when I had to sand it off it was really stuck on there. It also revealed that the metal underneath was still clean with zero rust.

No paint system is perfect. They all have a bit of a give and take. It’s important to be thorough so you don’t have to do it again. Also, the original frame paint is probably the best protection so if you have areas that are still intact, rough them up and paint over them. Don’t sand it off.

I have also been using Eastwoods Internal Frame Coating. This is expensive, but works well for most things. It is really runny, so it will creep into crevices and it dries fast. I then top coat with spray paint. For example, I coated the 80 axle I am using with internal frame coating and then top coated with VHT spray paint.

Lastly, I like to use Cosmoline RP-342 in some areas that get excessive abuse. This is a wax that repels water. It sticks like glue but will come off with a solvent if you need it to.
It gives just a little extra protection. The only downside I have found is that it makes your frame look kind of dirty (even after you wash it)…but in my opinion it’s worth the protection it provides.

 

[Bullzi]

Once it’s all complete will you do your own alignment then get it checked at a shop? Looking forward to hearing about he ride and your first impressions.

Yes, the shock towers are indexed with the FJ60 sway bar mount. It makes it super easy to line it all up.


The only alignment for the 60 & 80 series is the toe. Spec is between 0 and .16” I believe. I set mine with some levels and a tape measure to just under 3/16” or 0.1875”. It should be a good starting point. If it feels off, I’ll have a shop set it.

 

[Bullzi]

Not to get too far off topic here, but I have a question for any 80 series pros out there:

What exactly limits the droop on the front of a stock FZJ80?

I’ve searched and I’ve found people that say the shocks…but others that say it’s not the shocks because the shocks will be damaged (makes sense).

Others have said the binding between the radius arms and the panhard bar as the axle droops really far. I have found that this binding doesn’t happen until the droop is really low (a few inches past the extension of the shocks).

Any thoughts?

 

[matmattmatthew]

Thank you!

So for paint, I have tried a bunch of things over the years… like you said, people either love or hate the POR15. I personally don’t like it. I followed all the instructions carefully and did all the steps, but it still peeled off in sheets.
I like Chassis Saver by Magnum Paints better, but only in certain applications. I found that if you sandblast something and then use the Chassis Saver, it sticks like glue. If you have surface rust, it sticks okay but it doesn’t get rid of the rust. It encapsulates it so it won’t spread, but if you sand it off the rust is still there. Clean metal has to be really roughed up for the Chassis Saver to stick…that’s why sand blasting is so good.

Lately I’ve found that cleaning everything to bright shiny metal is the way to go (if you can). Then you don’t have to worry about the rust popping back up. I have been really liking Eastwood’s Platinum Rust Encapsulator. It can go over roughed up clean metal, painted areas and rust. I then top coat that with spray paint (choose your favorite).
I have done this on multiple sections of my frame and when I had to sand it off it was really stuck on there. It also revealed that the metal underneath was still clean with zero rust.

No paint system is perfect. They all have a bit of a give and take. It’s important to be thorough so you don’t have to do it again. Also, the original frame paint is probably the best protection so if you have areas that are still intact, rough them up and paint over them. Don’t sand it off.

I have also been using Eastwoods Internal Frame Coating. This is expensive, but works well for most things. It is really runny, so it will creep into crevices and it dries fast. I then top coat with spray paint. For example, I coated the 80 axle I am using with internal frame coating and then top coated with VHT spray paint.

Lastly, I like to use Cosmoline RP-342 in some areas that get excessive abuse. This is a wax that repels water. It sticks like glue but will come off with a solvent if you need it to.
It gives just a little extra protection. The only downside I have found is that it makes your frame look kind of dirty (even after you wash it)…but in my opinion it’s worth the protection it provides.

Thanks for the Info, very helpful. Interesting about the original frame paint, the front half of my frame looks like it's 5 years old and the back half looks like it's 20 years old. I'll just scuff up the parts that are still good and paint over them.

 

[youpers]

Not to get too far off topic here, but I have a question for any 80 series pros out there:

What exactly limits the droop on the front of a stock FZJ80?

I’ve searched and I’ve found people that say the shocks…but others that say it’s not the shocks because the shocks will be damaged (makes sense).

Others have said the binding between the radius arms and the panhard bar as the axle droops really far. I have found that this binding doesn’t happen until the droop is really low (a few inches past the extension of the shocks).

Any thoughts?

its the shocks

 

[Bullzi]

its the shocks

Thanks!

 

[Bullzi]

Sway bar mounts:

The Torfab kit doesn’t include sway bars for a variety of reasons. Different people have different drivetrain setups that may require different mounts.

For mine, I’m trying to reuse the FJ60 sway bar mounts but in a different way.
I’m going to cut the links down and weld them to a plate where the sway bar will be mounted.

I started with a plate and welded some nuts on the back of it.
I am using M10 nuts/bolts instead of the M8 that the FJ60 uses.

I then spent a lot of time measuring and centering the bracket with the estimated location of the sway bar.

I drilled some large holes in the frame for the captured nuts to fit through and tacked them into place.

The fit is a little tight when the exhaust is installed, but it does fit. I may trim an edge off the stock FJ60 brackets for more clearance.

All welded in:

I think this should be a good solution for the sway bar mounts. The nice thing is if they don’t work for some reason, I can abandon the mounting plates or easily cut them off to make room for different ones.

 

[Bullzi]

First coat of paint is on!
Will do 2 coats of the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and then 2 coats of spray paint.

I rolled this stuff on with a small roller and then brushed it into the corners. There is a little texture but it’s pretty smooth.

 

[Bullzi]

And the spray paint is on…

 

[dbbowen]

dude i always recommend that platinum rust encapsulator here and folks always say por 15 or the sticky oil stuff. Ive used the eastwood platinum on a few applications and it works better than anything ive ever used. The Por15 is just like the other product you mentioned. The metal needs to be clean clean. Like no rust at all, no mill scale, and wiped with acetone clean for it to really bond well. Ive literally put that platinum rust encapsulator over flaking rust on an old nova my dads buddy owns to just see what would happen and it is still holding strong. I used por15 on an 85 pickup axle that i took down with a wire wheel while i had it completely disassembled. It still flaked. Its almost like you need to sand blast the material and then bathe in acetone to get it to really adhere

While you have it bare down there, eastwood makes a really great rust encapsulator spray can with a hose and a 360* spray nozle. You put it inside your frame rail and spray and pull the hose out and it coats the inside of your frame too. Worth it imo

Im doing this same thing with the TT brackets sometime in the future, as ive got the front and rear kit sitting in boxes in my garage. Awesome to see the progress, youre killing it

 

[Bullzi]

Yea it’s great stuff!
I have a few cans of that Eastwood internal frame coating that I plan on using inside the frame. I need to wash the inside with the pressure washer, let it dry and then vacuum it out. Then I’ll do the internal frame coat. Once that dries I’ll throw some fluid film in there for good measure.
That will probably be once the weather warms up just a bit

 

[dbbowen]

Yea it’s great stuff!
I have a few cans of that Eastwood internal frame coating that I plan on using inside the frame. I need to wash the inside with the pressure washer, let it dry and then vacuum it out. Then I’ll do the internal frame coat. Once that dries I’ll throw some fluid film in there for good measure.
That will probably be once the weather warms up just a bit

haha man ive never thought about pressure washing in there. I bet the inside of my old 4runner frame doestn look so good. I just sprayed it in there hahaha

 

[Hokie LX]

Yea it’s great stuff!
I have a few cans of that Eastwood internal frame coating that I plan on using inside the frame. I need to wash the inside with the pressure washer, let it dry and then vacuum it out. Then I’ll do the internal frame coat. Once that dries I’ll throw some fluid film in there for good measure.
That will probably be once the weather warms up just a bit

I used Eastwood on the inside of my frame and am happy with it. I used a free reverse spinning tip on a long hose on my pressure washer which blasted the inner frame nicely. Then did some corroseal before the Eastwood. The pressure washer tip was a game changer.


Was this a one off kit? I don’t see it on their website.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Not to get too far off topic here, but I have a question for any 80 series pros out there:

What exactly limits the droop on the front of a stock FZJ80?

I’ve searched and I’ve found people that say the shocks…but others that say it’s not the shocks because the shocks will be damaged (makes sense).

Others have said the binding between the radius arms and the panhard bar as the axle droops really far. I have found that this binding doesn’t happen until the droop is really low (a few inches past the extension of the shocks).

Any thoughts?

Its mainly the arms themselves. They are wide in the frame end so they dont have room to rotate. The axle end fights itself. A way to "cheat" a little bit when off road is pull the forward drivers side bolt out. Search "hitch pin mod".

Cool build by the way!!! What are your plans for the rear?

 

[Bullzi]

I used Eastwood on the inside of my frame and am happy with it. I used a free reverse spinning tip on a long hose on my pressure washer which blasted the inner frame nicely. Then did some corroseal before the Eastwood. The pressure washer tip was a game changer.


Was this a one off kit? I don’t see it on their website.

It’s not a one off kit. They install them in their shop all the time. They were on the website but I’m not sure why they took them off. I’d get in touch with @torfab if your interested in a kit!

 

[Bullzi]

Its mainly the arms themselves. They are wide in the frame end so they dont have room to rotate. The axle end fights itself. A way to "cheat" a little bit when off road is pull the forward drivers side bolt out. Search "hitch pin mod".

Cool build by the way!!! What are your plans for the rear?

Thanks!!

My plan is to keep the rear just as it is (at least for now). I have OME extra heavy leafs in the rear and a nice airbag setup. I’ll probably upgrade the shocks at some point though.

 

[dbbowen]

Thanks!!

My plan is to keep the rear just as it is (at least for now). I have OME extra heavy leafs in the rear and a nice airbag setup. I’ll probably upgrade the shocks at some point though.

keep in mind, if you go too long on the shocks that the springs can unseat. I made that mistake on my 80 series and they never popped out or anything, but ive been on the trail flexing with my spring just rattling around. You coudl move it around by hand lol

 

[Bullzi]

keep in mind, if you go too long on the shocks that the springs can unseat. I made that mistake on my 80 series and they never popped out or anything, but ive been on the trail flexing with my spring just rattling around. You coudl move it around by hand lol

Thanks!
With the shock length that I ordered I should be good. I measured it out and with the shocks full extension I still have tension on the springs.
Just in case I welded some nuts on the underside of the spring perch so I could retrofit some spring keepers (if necessary)…but I don’t think it will be.

 

[Jdog]

Thanks!
With the shock length that I ordered I should be good. I measured it out and with the shocks full extension I still have tension on the springs.
Just in case I welded some nuts on the underside of the spring perch so I could retrofit some spring keepers (if necessary)…but I don’t think it will be.

View attachment 3290633

That's a cool idea. May look into that down the road.

 

[Snicklephritz87]

Ever use steel it? I love it. Held up on all my chassis work. I will check out Eastwood platinum for the fj60

dude i always recommend that platinum rust encapsulator here and folks always say por 15 or the sticky oil stuff. Ive used the eastwood platinum on a few applications and it works better than anything ive ever used. The Por15 is just like the other product you mentioned. The metal needs to be clean clean. Like no rust at all, no mill scale, and wiped with acetone clean for it to really bond well. Ive literally put that platinum rust encapsulator over flaking rust on an old nova my dads buddy owns to just see what would happen and it is still holding strong. I used por15 on an 85 pickup axle that i took down with a wire wheel while i had it completely disassembled. It still flaked. Its almost like you need to sand blast the material and then bathe in acetone to get it to really adhere

While you have it bare down there, eastwood makes a really great rust encapsulator spray can with a hose and a 360* spray nozle. You put it inside your frame rail and spray and pull the hose out and it coats the inside of your frame too. Worth it imo

Im doing this same thing with the TT brackets sometime in the future, as ive got the front and rear kit sitting in boxes in my garage. Awesome to see the progress, youre killing it