Too much rust or good deal? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bronco007
- Start date
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I would not buy it for that price, but I might try to sell it for that 
... if the body looks good, that would help. Not a ton of people looking to purchase a 3FE 80 series
... if the body looks good, that would help. Not a ton of people looking to purchase a 3FE 80 series
Concur, hard pass recommended. You can find cleaner examples for that price.
8500 not a penny more.
It's not too much rust for Vermont. That's where it should have stayed.
Nor is it a good deal.
Nor is it a good deal.
COYS
SILVER Star
I have no idea why any new USA 80 market entrant would buy a 3fe. Just get a 1fz and have a blast.
- Thread starter
- #10
Where does one look? BAT is crazy. I’m all for it if one is selling but buyer beware. Found this one on FBMP, and it was only fifty miles away so I could go see it. I’m very leery to buy anything without driving it. Not too many of these in Tampa it seems.
Classifieds here, FBMP or Craigslist. I bought mine off of FBMP. There are a few folks here that are overly proud of their rust buckets in the classified but there are also some good ones as well.
No but need to work with a reputable importer, but they still have their issues.
COYS
SILVER Star
I bought both of my ‘97s here on mud both pretty much sight unseen. It’s not ez finding a well loved one because people tend to hang on to them. Even the low mileage bat ones will need ALL the maintenance getting on with a quarter century old rubbers, actuators, etc. then you run into the real challenge of insuring these vintage trucks. Any insurer worth mentioning will be hard pressed to provide full coverage without some major mileage and use restrictions.
The sweet spot is to find an enthusiast owned 80 done up right 200k, 300k, 400k miles on the odo.
The real questions are
*how rust free is rust free?
Every visible area is rust free on mine as a seattle, south carolina and SoCal vehicle. There were a few tiny specks of rust on the windshield frame that were professionally removed/treated when I had my windshield replaced voluntarily to get rid of the fuyao glass with oem agc (nla).
*how old are the major components in the drivetrain?
Engine and all components attached is OEM new including the exhaust system from manifold to exhaust tip. Transmission is original. Transfer case is original except all sensors oem new. Oem Transfer case actuator (nla) is in the parts stash.
*what other components have been replaced with new?
Pretty much everything, too long to list.
*what corners if any were cut in sourcing the parts whether oem or aftermarket and why?
None really. My policy is oem new if available. Suspension components all top shelf aftermarket LC specialist type vendors.
*how was it used?
My Prius in LA. Grocery getter. Anal retentive car fan.
*do you have proof of the work done?
Yea see my post count.
I have a google sheet too with a long inventory of Toyota part numbers. This is how it should be. Honest 80 enthusiast open
. YMMV
Ps I ain’t selling mine for anything less than $60k usd
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- Thread starter
- #15
Really appreciate you taking the time! Great advice.I bought both of my ‘97s here on mud both pretty much sight unseen. It’s not ez finding a well loved one because people tend to hang on to them. Even the low mileage bat ones will need ALL the maintenance getting on with a quarter century old rubbers, actuators, etc. then you run into the real challenge of insuring these vintage trucks. Any insurer worth mentioning will be hard pressed to provide full coverage without some major mileage and use restrictions.
The sweet spot is to find an enthusiast owned 80 done up right 200k, 300k, 400k miles on the odo.
The real questions are
*how rust free is rust free?
Every visible area is rust free on mine as a seattle, south carolina and SoCal vehicle. There were a few tiny specks of rust on the windshield frame that were professionally removed/treated when I had my windshield replaced voluntarily to get rid of the fuyao glass with oem agc (nla).
*how old are the major components in the drivetrain?
Engine and all components attached is OEM new including the exhaust system from manifold to exhaust tip. Transmission is original. Transfer case is original except all sensors oem new. Oem Transfer case actuator (nla) is in the parts stash.
*what other components have been replaced with new?
Pretty much everything, too long to list.
*what corners if any were cut in sourcing the parts whether oem or aftermarket and why?
None really. My policy is oem new if available. Suspension components all top shelf aftermarket LC specialist type vendors.
*how was it used?
My Prius in LA. Grocery getter. Anal retentive car fan.
*do you have proof of the work done?
Yea see my post count.
This is how it should be. Honest 80 enthusiast open
YMMV
Ps I ain’t selling mine for anything less than $60k usd
- Thread starter
- #16
Found another prospect. 1994 that spent its’ life in Nashville. I’m from there so I’m familiar with the one day of snow a year; so it’s been exposed to maybe 26 days of salted roads if it snowed each year (which it didn’t). Truck is very clean inside and out. No rust anywhere and not paint or coatings (my assessment of photos). Everything works. 225k miles. Bone stock. It’s located in same state as me so that helps; only about 120 miles away. Carfax shows a fender bender 20 years ago but otherwise clean. Service records going back to 1994. Asking $22,500. Review on BAT seems price might be a little above par, but I’m not surprised because a dealer got a hold of it. Only thing I don’t like is no airbags, but those came in ‘95 so I can’t fault the truck. Opinions?
Mine was a 1994 with 150k, no rust, clean interior, no accidents and all records and I bought it for half of that. Keep looking. A 1994, clean and unlocked with high mileage is worth like 8-12k, locked maybe 10-15k. A lot of the prices you will see are either trying to replicate covid OR they were "make me an offer I can't refuse," where they are happy to keep it unless someone is willing to pay.
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- Thread starter
- #18
When did you buy it?
End of '22 I think, I probably shopped across BAT, Cars and Bids, Classifieds, Craigslist and FB Marketplace for about 6 months before buying one. Every higher priced 80 I enquired about or was interested eventually either dropped significantly in price or never sold.
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Pass on that one. There are way better examples for that price nowadays.
