I am considering a fender flare delete as well. Are you going to go the individual plug route for the holes or a more permanent solution?
Builds Tokyo to Wisconsin - JDM HDJ81 Build Thread (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #82
I'm going to do a more permanent solution. Currently just deciding on some sort of bondo, soldering the holes, or having a shop do it.
I've seen interesting demos of how some body repair shops will use solder for hole repair, so I might give that a try when my garage is done in the next month or two. The benefit of using solder instead of welding is that there isn't any scoring left behind on the inside of panels, which could lead to rust/rot down the road.
I drove minena few months like that. The road spray down the sides was atrocious and the holes drove me bonkers.
I factory non flare, that's where I'd like to be lol
- Thread starter
- #84
It's been quite a while since I've updated my thread, but some exciting plans are in motion!
I'm currently planning a road trip to Alaska and back, sometime around August 2025, and intend on going to Iceland and Australia. In order to prep for all this, I've been asking shops nationwide about refreshing the drivetrain as much as possible, to essentially an OEM+ spec.
I've decided to go with Torfab and will post more progress; we're in the parts gathering stage at the moment. Initial specs will include the following:
- 1HD-FT complete refresh with GTurbo green wheel and PDI intercooler.
- Transfer case regear to 3.3/1 low range and 1.097/1 high range.
- Long Range America 37 gallon main tank and 24 gallon aux tank.
- 12v starter conversion with some Redarc goodies.
I'll also likely be deleting the OEM rear tire swingout in favor of a Dissent rear bumper with dual swingouts. New paint to the exterior coming soon (staying with Desert Dune Pearl).
Update photo of the 80 from a trip earlier this month.
I'm currently planning a road trip to Alaska and back, sometime around August 2025, and intend on going to Iceland and Australia. In order to prep for all this, I've been asking shops nationwide about refreshing the drivetrain as much as possible, to essentially an OEM+ spec.
I've decided to go with Torfab and will post more progress; we're in the parts gathering stage at the moment. Initial specs will include the following:
- 1HD-FT complete refresh with GTurbo green wheel and PDI intercooler.
- Transfer case regear to 3.3/1 low range and 1.097/1 high range.
- Long Range America 37 gallon main tank and 24 gallon aux tank.
- 12v starter conversion with some Redarc goodies.
I'll also likely be deleting the OEM rear tire swingout in favor of a Dissent rear bumper with dual swingouts. New paint to the exterior coming soon (staying with Desert Dune Pearl).
Update photo of the 80 from a trip earlier this month.
- Thread starter
- #85
For those who might be curious about not running fender flares and what to do with all of the holes left behind, I've been sealing up the fender flare holes by using an old school trick: flux core solder.
For small holes (up to 1/4 inch), this method works a treat. Remove paint around the hole, use a drill bit or punch to create a slightly concave surface for more contact, heat (or "tin") the metal, and apply solder. Use a toothbrush and water to clear out the acid, and grind/sand to finish. Larger holes require a patch that can also be soldered on, or taped on from the back of the panel (if you have access).
Takes a bit to get the hang of, but not too challenging. Plus, a metal to metal bond should last as long as any other solution.
I'm using a Weller 200/300W soldering gun and 40/60 flux core Oatey solder. Learned this from YouTube university.
For small holes (up to 1/4 inch), this method works a treat. Remove paint around the hole, use a drill bit or punch to create a slightly concave surface for more contact, heat (or "tin") the metal, and apply solder. Use a toothbrush and water to clear out the acid, and grind/sand to finish. Larger holes require a patch that can also be soldered on, or taped on from the back of the panel (if you have access).
Takes a bit to get the hang of, but not too challenging. Plus, a metal to metal bond should last as long as any other solution.
I'm using a Weller 200/300W soldering gun and 40/60 flux core Oatey solder. Learned this from YouTube university.
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