To Lipstick And Beyond (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Threads
107
Messages
591
Location
under Pike's Peak
It's been way too long that I haven't documented my swine flu affliction. I don't have a great need to share but then I realized that if one person on this forum could benefit from anything I have done in the past and documented, then that is reason enough to get busy here.

Backstory---please stick with me. I had wanted an FJ55 for a long time after years of owning an FJ40 (still do), an FJ60 (took three pre-teen daughters to BHCC, our first event, sometime around Y2K), an FZJ80, and now a hundy as my DD. Working in LE, I would drive by a white, spray painted pig between a barn and the Colorado River near Palisade, CO regularly. I once talked to the owner who stated he bought the 1972 for a father-son project that didn't and would never happen. He would not sell it however. Years later, sometime in 2016 or 2017, I found it at a pawn shop. As a fraud investigator, I spent a lot of time in them. Purchased it for cheap and drug it home for my project. My wife called it "our lawn ornament". Someone had installed a 2F and a 4 speed and it ran pretty well. However, the rockers and rear quarters were filled with window screen and spray foam. I initially thought I would buy Bobm panels, but after herniating L3 and L4 realized I wasn't up to the task. The lawn ornament became entrenched.

Just as I was about to retire in 2018, the blue one came up in CA. The PO stated it was used for tv or print commerials. I was told it needed some carb work. I was told it had a clean title. I had a friend (not a cruiserhead) take pictures and I realized this pig had lipstick and the beauty was skin deep. It was a week before Christmas and it was also cheap. It came home.

Well, the first non-technical problem was that CO would not issue a title. As you may know, back then the VIN was 5 digits behind the fj55. Well the title had the correct numbers, but apparently sometime in the last 45 years, some title clerk decided the VIN was too short and it needed leading zeros to make up 17 digits. Because of that and a few VIN digits from the frame horn could not be read, CO sent me through the works- bond for title, certifed VIN inspection, etc. The process went smoother than anticipated. State Patrol removed the leading zeros back to the original VIN and six weeks later, I had my title.

In 2018, we retired to the MS Gulf Coast, dragging two pigs. I had to fix that problem but just couldn't "do it". Finally, admitted to myself the white one was too far gone for my skill set and it gave up it's life providing parts for the blue one and many others. We could discuss that for hours but I don't like to.

The new (blue one) project was interesting for me as I have no auto body experience but have wrenched on more than a few cruisers. It also had been converted to a 2F, 4 speed, and front disk axle. The paint has been redone, as there is some overspray underneath and there are a few bubbles. Someone replaced the left rear wheelwell lip(way better than I could have done. It is a body I could live with now and try to preserve best I can. That will come later. I need to focus on everything (there's a lot) under the lipstick.

The carburetor was a Weber and there were headers with several dime-sized holes throughout. I think that return spring on the carb was about 30 lbs! I couldn't push the accelerator. It would start with gas or ether, but barely ran. While running, I noticed it wasn't charging. The regulator was hacked with Scotch-Loks and I thought I had fixed it. Then noticed not a single electrical function operated. The harness was so badly spliced with Scotch-Loks and twisted, taped joints, I tore it out and rewired the truck with the harness from the white one. It took a while, fighting through bad grounds everywhere, but eventually got it to run, charge, and display every light. The tailgate window would not operate(more on that later). I just wanted to drive it around the block.

Well I drove it around the block and forgot what not having power steering was like. There was no participation from the rear brakes so that was exciting. Man this is going to be a long haul.

I replaced the manifolds with the stock 2F stuff. I had a Jim C. carb sitting on the shelf to use on my FJ40 but that slid over to the pig. I had to source the older style air cleaner as I wanted to keep the early hood.
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For the first time, it would start, run, and I could really tell this was a smooth, strong power plant. The 2F serial indicates it from 1975 and the compression is high and even across the board. I also had an FJ55 mini truck gearbox and mount I had purchased from Gary in PA (shmukster) a long time ago. (Told you I had been planning for a pig for a while.) I think it looks like one of the old roklobster mounts. I used a Saginaw pump, pulley, and mounts from Mark's Off Road and some -AN fittings and line for a beautiful, clean install. I'll detail that parts list later.

I have a rockcrawler in my FJ40 so I want this one to be a highway to friends, forest service/camping road, and take the grandkids for ice cream ride. Back to Gary, I purchased two 3.73:1 third members. Rebuilt both axles in the process(really had a hard time getting the long axle shaft to engage), new brakes, seals, bearings all around, and swapped the thirds (had never done that, it's kind of a chinese finger puzzle, but it worked out great). With 31" tires, It's a nice ride.

I'll stop here for now with some photos. I have much more to do and I'll detail that as I go plus fill in for some work already done and mentioned. Sorry and thanks for hanging in there.

I'm not very good at formatting all of this so I apologize for the jumble. First photo is of the white donor. Then, Weber and blown header.
Two of
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how the blue one appeared originally.
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Here's the manifold set before install. Replaced all the compression rings, mated it, and lapped it flat.
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Besides the pump, mount, and pulley from Mark's, here's what else I needed from PSC Motorsports, Azle, Tx.

SF06-AN adapter fitting for Toyota, 16MM x 1.50 IF to-6JC male (HP)
SF04-AN adapter fitting, -6AN x 5/8-18 inverted flare(SGBreturn, PS pump pressure
HA2-690 fitting, weatherhead #6 90 degreeHA2-6HOSE, high pressure hose


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I really needed a clever solution and this really became it. I needed to use the old style air cleaner under the early hood. This setup allowed me to set the pump way low out of the cleaner's way. I've had a mini-truck power steering system on the FJ40 for about 25 years and I'm happy. I cobbled my pump mount (first weld job) and after using this, I will change to this system as the alignment and placement are very clean.
 
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Early air cleaner on 2F under 55 early hood. There's what appears to be radiator steam residue under the hood. I'm going to boil/pressure test rad., change rad. cap, thermostat, belt, and hoses.

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Some of blue outside in the sun just to show it really runs. God knows I'm too old and weak to push that beast 20 feet!

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I really hate all the black accents. I'm touching up the lipstick while I await rear window parts and fixes to old ignition system.
 
Dupli-Color pewter metallic available at all the national parts chains. I'm not going for a concours restoration- I just hate all the black and why not come as close to original as one can. You may note the old Warn winch bumper. Don't know why, but I didn't like it and sold it. The original came off of whitey and I'm proud of it now. Passenger side was bent badly, bumper was twisted, and full of holes. My first bumper job. Had no idea filling holes using a copper backing plate was so easy and fun. Took out the warp with a shop press and large pipe wrench with extension handle. It's not concours, but I'm happy. Waiting for upper front bumper bolts. Metric carriage plated doesn't grow on trees.

Rear bumper shows I removed old six pin trailer recepticle. Didn't want to remove bumper due to massive traileer hitch bolted through cross member and I didn't want to weld the hole in that close to gas tank. It'll get fixed some day.

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What the h*ll is this?


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We can't help but "improve" them. Its part of the flu. Others have way more talent than I so I enjoy reading these threads and seeing said improvements.
 
Blue has some of the prettiest seats I've seen. The back seat redo is pristine and the FJ40 front seats are like new with cushions and upholstery all redone. The thing is, I think I want modern high backs with integrated shoulder belts. Pictures don't yet show it but the headliner is black and I really can't stomach that. Oh, and the door panels are so built out, each window crank only operates 1/2 turn! It's kind of hard to drive on the Gulf right now with no A/C and the windows rolled up. It can turn you into a puddle of water at one red light.

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bobm, thank you for your enormous contribution to the sickness. I really thought I would use your panels. Yeah, I can cut my own hair too but it would look like it.
 
It’s very true about can’t helping from constantly making constant changes to them. Keep the thread going and keep taking pics and posting. Cool truck!
 
Rear window didn't work. I figured there might be a problem when I discovered the 2X6 and baling wire holding up the window! Farmer ingenuity at its best. No disrespect to farmers intended.

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Dug into the tailgate by removing the mechanism. Pictured are the original gear and the Shapeways 3D printed gear which I misordered. The original gear had split as shown and wedged between the gear housing and the drive (worm) gear stalling the motor drawing a bunch of current.

I originally only saw the one gear on the Shapeway website and assumed (big mistake, I know) that the pictured gear was only a representation. I didn't know there were two versions-early and late. Well, I learned I ordered the late version needing the early one. Of note, Shapeway was of very little help. At this point I was still in WTF mode and looking to speak with someone. No chance, you keep getting automated email responses stating "the gear was printed correctly from the design file and a reprint would only yield the same result". No sh*t! Their only response was to contact the designer by registering on the website. I did and sent another message-no reply. I just wanted to ask how to find and order the correct one.

I noted the designer was labeled fj55-100 and had seen that same handle on Mud. I sent him a pm here and received a reply about the same time I saw the correct gear on the Shapeway site. Fj55-100 is Evan and he gave his phone number. We talked and he assured me the new gears I ordered blindly in a second attempt were now the correct ones and he offered me a refund for a return of the misordered ones directly to him. Thank you again, Evan. Shapeway via e-mail told me to "eat them".

The people on this forum continue to amaze me! Sad thing is the internet frustrates me sometimes because this could have been handled the old way. Every business now it seems, is loathe to take a phone call. Some, in this case, won't even provide a phone number. Allright, rant mode off. (I get distracted--Squirrel! Gerry Squirrel!)

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Waiting for new gear. Of note, it appears I have no tailgate weatherstipping except for the inner and outer horizontal strip inside the tailgate at the very top. I'm waiting for a callback from Slocruisers as it appears they have the upper piece that applies to the upper body sides and across the top of the window opening. I'm going to order that but I have some questions. It appears nothing else is available.

I have no idea what is used between the tailgate and body. I'll have to figure that out last.

Here's what I did for the vertical channels where the glass rides
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on the left and right ends. First is a photo of the window channel from Slocruiser's website Second photo shows what I ordered. I think it will work but had to buy a long roll and it won't lie flat until I lay it out to warm up. That's a weird place to work and I need to be sure the window channel is straight and centered.
 
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Worked on installing the weatherstrip into the end channels this morning. It was a relief to discover the channels remove easily from the ends of the tailgate with two screws each The screw at the top of the tailgate fastens into a fixed hole while the screw on the bottom can be adjusted forward and backward for a raised tailgate or up and down for a lowered tailgate. During dry run attempts, I thought this job would be a pain if the channel was still inside the tailgate.

As the weatherstrip came rolled, it retained its memory to want to spiral-roll like a candy cane stripe. I took care to be sure the weatherstrip installed straight and flat against the bottom of the "U" shaped channel. I only used weatherstrip adhesive along the bottom of the weatherstrip and channel, never the sides of either. When I reinstalled the glued up channel, I had to adjust the bottom screws to ensure the glass would stay centered in the channel from top to bottom.

The result is a very stiff. I takes both hands to slide the glass in and out of the tailgate. I also crawled into the back of the pig to unscientifically judge if gravity helped or hindered movement when sliding the glass up and down . I couldn't tell a difference.

Without experience of a working tailgate, I 'm concerned the motor/gear assembly will face too much resistance. I can see how a misalignment here or an overstiff condition could grind gears into bits. I don't believe I have a misalignment. How much stiffness is normal here and how strong is the motor/gear combo? I'm reluctant to apply motor power into this until I can make it slide easier or someone tells me to quit worrying about it.

Does anyone have a suggestion of a lubricant I could try into the channel to see if I can lower the resistance of the glass sliding in the channel?

Thank you.
 
Research indicates spray silicone is a good thing to try here. WD-40 is supposed to be a ggod one but I couldn't find it. I tried the same stuff from PB Blaster. Just by feel, its easier to slide the glass in the channel by about 1/2. I don't have a pull scale so its completely suggestive. I'm still worried the new gear will not be able to drive the window.

Anyone will real world experience as to how robust the gear/motor system is? What resistance of the glass in the channel can it overcome without eating itself?
 
There is adjustment on the tracks on both sides of the windows. Silicone spray is a good lube for the guides. Also I found the motor will draw extra amps as the window gets tight and will pop the circuit breaker under the dash as you roll up and down. Mine still does. That’s mostly from an old circuit and corrosion and voltage drop through the connections but also acts to help the motor not destroying itself.
 

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