To Lipstick And Beyond (1 Viewer)

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I've since watched twenty videos. I'll clean the bore well and use Permatex #1 (old Jim C. post) to seal the plugs. Originally I was trying to avoid the whole valve adjustment procedure. I guess I was being short-sighted. I'm getting advice to pull the rocker shaft. I'll probably remove the rear plug and replace it while I'm there.

I may be lucky but I know there's still a chance I cracked something inside the head.
 
bobm said:
but I've seen a socket used for install with a hammer, or you could remove entire rocker assembly in 1 piece I believe.
Click to expand...
And if you need more angle don't be afraid to grab one of these, I've installed more than one freeze plug at the end of a long extension with a swivel and a socket.

s-l300.jpg
 
J Mack that's interesting. I'm still debating pulling the rocker shaft or not. I was trying to save the extra work of readjusting the valves again when it had just been done, then buttoning up to later find a crack in the head.

The videos I've watched of core plug installs look like a significant hammer hit is needed. I wouldn't want any angle to send the plug crooked. I'll mock up a swivel on an extension and visually "play with that idea." Parts won't be in at dealer for a few days anyway. Thanks.
 
 
GJCruiser said:
I will cross post this elsewhere but I'm looking for ideas for help from the 55 group first. Let me start by saying it first and I'll fill in the story.

I'm pretty sure I cracked a head or a block or a ? Please help me gather an investigation sequence. Man, this is painful. If you've been following, you'll know I've not been on here for a while. After the deaths of two family members, we moved back to CO, (Springs) to be nearer to two daughters. Long story- not good- took two years of wife's and my lives. We're recovering.

I have come so far on the 55--new floor, brakes, axle, steering, bearings, AC prep-this thread is a part of it. This morning went to back it out of the garage where its been since we moved into the new house. Went to check fluids and found radiator low and started refill. Something's not right, radiator is not filling, floor is dry. I check oil to discover I'm filling the crankcase with water!

I had been driving it around Biloxi to gas stations, shakedowns, etc. on pure water. Before moving last October, I topped off rad with 50/50 mix, probably 1/2 gallon. Trailered the 55 behind U-Haul. You may remember the late October snowstorm and following cold. We we're in OK the worst night parked at motel-got damned cold. Lost all plants in back of truck. When we got keys to new place in the Springs, I backed the 55 off the trailer and parked it in the garage (unheated), where it sat untouched untill this morning.

We had two -15 nights in January but I don't know how cold the garage went to. I'm thinking it froze sometime then? Could something really have cracked internally? I'm in shock.

Short of a complete teardown, anyone know of any external investigations/ideas? Color me sick.
Click to expand...
It sounds like the last few years have just been brutal.
I am sorry to hear about it all.
Now to be faced w/ more tribulation just feels like a kick in the sack.

This can be fixed!

It sounds like you still have your wife and daughters - everything else is mouse turds...

Just thinking out loud, I guess I would be tempted to pull the spark plugs and turn her over by hand - what comes out?
If that is okay, drain the oil and see how that is looking? If you clearly have water/coolant in the oil, you could drain the radiator, change the oil and do a compression test. That will tell you if you have any bad holes. If you do, move on to a leak-down test which can help you zoom in on where the breaches are...

Endeavor to persevere!!!
 
GJCruiser said:
Yeah, I'm thinking the same. Once the water came out, the discharge rate was that of hot oil during an oil change. Among all else going on, I have a major dental appointment midday. Not sure I'll get to the cover today.
Click to expand...
Oh boy, I hope the dentist went okay!!!
 
GJCruiser said:
Removed side inspection cover and freeze plugs looked intact. Added water to radiator and water started flowing down out of pushrod holes from above. Removed valve cover to observe the first three (in row from front to back) freeze plugs lying along side their holes as pictured below. Plugs, gasket, and FIPG on order from Mr. T.

View attachment 3604546
Click to expand...
Yippee!!!
Great news!
 
bobm said:
No expierience, but I've seen a socket used for install with a hammer, or you could remove entire rocker assembly in 1 piece I believe. Glad it's that and not a head gasket or cracked block 😉.
Click to expand...
This ^^^
I would feel best about pulling the rocker shaft and checking all the freeze plugs up there (not sure how many are in the head).
Make sure none are loose.
Such a cool outcome! The freeze plugs did their job!!!
 
GJCruiser said:
J Mack that's interesting. I'm still debating pulling the rocker shaft or not. I was trying to save the extra work of readjusting the valves again when it had just been done, then buttoning up to later find a crack in the head.

The videos I've watched of core plug installs look like a significant hammer hit is needed. I wouldn't want any angle to send the plug crooked. I'll mock up a swivel on an extension and visually "play with that idea." Parts won't be in at dealer for a few days anyway. Thanks.
Click to expand...
You could always experiment w/ the old plugs.
 
I installed the core plugs today and followed up with a pressure test of the coolant system. Everything looked good. Had a very slow leak (about 1psi/hour) but couldn't find it. Filled radiator with water (it fills, no water in oil) and repeated pressure test. No seepage from any core plugs.

In photo below, note there is a small hole in block behind block core plug on driver's side under cylinder 5 or 6 (pretty far back). Not sure what that hole is for and what specs it may have. Started the 55 and she runs as well as she ever has. That low #2 compression reading from last week still sticks with me so I'll repeat that test in a day or two.

Anyone know the specs on that hole?

Thanks.
IMG_5617.JPG
 
This is an early (1975) 2F. I'm reading that 1Fs and early 2Fs had their oil sender there? On my vehicle, the PO installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the oil cooler. Note---My leak from that hole is water though.
 
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My concern is that it weeped during the coolant pressure test and searching seems to indicate an oil sender may go there!
 
Block drain?
Maybe packed and plugged with sediment and dirt, so mostly sealed. Start poling around in there with a pick and see if you get it to drain, then put a plug into it.
 
The hole is blind tapped, about 1/2" deep, and I'm 75% sure it would connect to the water jacket. Reading some old messages seem to state the flat unmachined boss lower down was for the oil sender in some cases. I still need to prove that. Appreciate anyone jumping in to confirm and/or with a thread size and pitch. Thanks
 
Below-----An old post from Ed Degnol, Mark Whatley concurred.

If it is the hole you can see just forward and above the block drain, it is a blind hole on my 12/76 block........
The un-drilled, untapped boss you can see forward and slightly lower than the block drain is where the oil pressure sender was located on F motors.


Ed
2F 016.jpg
 
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Don't know the thread size. If you are losing 1psi per hour that's probably the source. Water looks rusty did you flush the cooling system entirely? I usually flush it with water through the petcock on the block from the radiator. I keep flushing until it runs clear. Close the petcock add coolant. Does your factory temp gauge work?? That may be a tapered pipe thread.
 
Factory temp and oil pressure gauges work well as does the mechanical oil gauge. Water ran clear after about 15 minutes running. I have previously flushed the block using the drain to the rear. I'm becoming more comfortable that hole is now connecting to water jacket. Yeah, trying to prove that and find the size/thread. Thanks.
 
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