I have a 99 LC, completely stock. I don't do any hard core offloading. Just a bit of exploring logging roads etc in the PNW. I want to lift my truck a little, mostly because I would like to put a little bigger tires on in cause they look cool. The only lift I seem to be able to find for it is the OME lift. Sadly it only comes in a 1.5 inch lift. Is it worth spending 1200 bucks for an inch and a half? What are the biggest tires I can put under it stock? With the lift? Any other ideas to get about 3" lift
to lift or not to lift?
- Thread starter joeldavidmeyer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Take off your running boards and put 33"s on. If that isn't enough, crank the torsion bars and put some spacers in the rear. Still not enough, then put in a diff drop, so you can crank the torsion bars more than 1.5" and get some taller rear springs.
I did the $1200 OME kit. I don't think I would again.
I did the $1200 OME kit. I don't think I would again.
The lift does NOT buy you any extra tire size. You can run 33 or 33.5" diameter tires with no lift at all. The height of the body is not necessarily what determines tire sizes on these cars. To run much more than 33" tires I think you need to start grinding away pinch welds and non-essential body/frame areas. Plenty doable, but probably overkill if you're just going for looks.
Take off the running boards and go buy yourself some 33" tires tomorrow with a perfectly stock suspension.
I've been running 285/75/16 (32.8") and 275/75/18 (33.2") with zero issues in moderate-difficult off-roading use. For logging roads it'll be perfectly fine.
IMO, the lift is helpful for hardcore trails where breakover, approach and departure angles matter, but otherwise a stock LC on 33"s is plenty capable. Lifts add strain to CV joints, boots, wind resistance, spouse complaints because it's now too high, reduce handling ability, etc...
Take off the running boards and go buy yourself some 33" tires tomorrow with a perfectly stock suspension.
I've been running 285/75/16 (32.8") and 275/75/18 (33.2") with zero issues in moderate-difficult off-roading use. For logging roads it'll be perfectly fine.IMO, the lift is helpful for hardcore trails where breakover, approach and departure angles matter, but otherwise a stock LC on 33"s is plenty capable. Lifts add strain to CV joints, boots, wind resistance, spouse complaints because it's now too high, reduce handling ability, etc...
Add 30mm spring spacers in the rear, remove running boards, crank the TB upfront 1.5" Then put on 33's
That's what i did, cost me $60 for the spring spacer lift, cranking TB was free...tires/wheels that's up to you...if you don't do any hardcore wheeling, i don't think a true lift is necessary, take that 1200 and put it towards preventive maintenance or accessories for your rig. Drawer system, new headlights/tail lights, something to update the look.
That's what i did, cost me $60 for the spring spacer lift, cranking TB was free...tires/wheels that's up to you...if you don't do any hardcore wheeling, i don't think a true lift is necessary, take that 1200 and put it towards preventive maintenance or accessories for your rig. Drawer system, new headlights/tail lights, something to update the look.
I like the looks of mine with a lift, so I say go for the lift. I didn't have a choice though, because my AHC was failing.
Excluding drop bracket lifts and lowering bump stops, which they don't make for the 100 anyways, this is 100% correct on almost all lifts.
The amount of people that think you need a lift to fit a bigger tire is nuts. A lift changes the static height of the suspension, it doesn't change the range of motion. If you rub without a lift, you'll rub with one.
Thanks!, it actually does sit up higher in the back. It's the standard OME: 2860 rear coils, 60000 & 60002 shocks, and ARB torsion bars. I did not install the diff drop, but feel I need to in order to crank up the front any more.
Also, i personally would budget in rebooting the front axles a month or so after the lift. That's not a cheap endeavor if you can't do it yourself.
Also, i personally would budget in rebooting the front axles a month or so after the lift. That's not a cheap endeavor if you can't do it yourself.
This may be the second (or 22nd) time I've posted this pic - sorry for you guys who've seen it over and over. But, I think it does a decent job showing that, with not much in the way of mods, the 100 looks (and is) very capable.
Both are stock 2006 100s. The burgundy 100 (mine) has 275/70/18 BFG ATs, about .75" worth of twist in the TBs, no running boards and no stick-on fender flares.
Both are stock 2006 100s. The burgundy 100 (mine) has 275/70/18 BFG ATs, about .75" worth of twist in the TBs, no running boards and no stick-on fender flares.
Last edited:
Is this a 100 thing? Over on the 200 side it sounds like this is not the case. There's sizes you can run stock, and then sizes you need a lift for. What you're saying makes sense to me, I'm just confused coming from the 200 side and reading everything over there (I have a 200, but am looking at 100s since the boss doesn't want me taking our luxury vehicle off road).
Thanks.
Lift.
This is true for all cars when it comes to suspension lifts. The point of the lift is to give the vehicle a greater range of travel (more articulation) but a stuffed tire is a stuffed tire no matter the vehicle's static height. A body lift might give you a little extra tire clearance, assuming some other component is limiting additional suspension travel (shock, bump stop, etc.)
Lift All the way baby!!!!
and if you do a SAS, you can do that too.........very nice
You've got to ask yourself how much looking cool is worth, I guess. For me, it'd be a no brainer: Definitely not for your purposes. Front end components will wear more rapidly with lift and bigger tires, as will brakes and transmission. Steering geometry is possibly compromised, center of gravity raised so not as safe-in other words there are a lot of negatives to consider.
- Thread starter
- #17
Ok should I decide not to put on the lift, I still need new shocks. What do you recommend i put on?
I think I understand your question and I have been pondering it as well. So I think you can get OEM shocks for about $150 for all 4. Your torsion bars are probably fine might benefit from adjusting. You may or may not need new rear springs and there are oem options or aftermarket for carrying more weight. I think I would grab some oem shocks and then evaluate from there.
Last edited:
That's exactly what I did. I found a 30mm rear spacer in the classifieds to fix my 18 year rear sag, and bought 4 new OEM shocks. Cranked the TB's only enough to level it out a bit. Excellent results from this poor man's lift.
