Tko makes sliders for an lx570.
If you live near Georgia they’ll install them for you for a reasonable price
This is a pretty easy job
Necessary tools:
Wobble head ratcheting 12mm wrench
Box knife
Sandpaper/sander
Panel popper
Recommended additional tools:
Thread cleaner 1.25-8
Electric ratchet
Whole set of 1/4” extensions
Good 1/4” swivel or swiveling 12mm socket
Floor Jack
Masking tape
(Going on memory)
There’s a better thread for cutting the side steps so I’m not going to go in depth on that
Post in thread 'LX570 Running Board Removal'
LX570 Running Board Removal - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-running-board-removal.966384/post-14737557
1. Use a panel popper to remove the tread plate from the side steps (see other thread)
2. Continue using the panel popper to disassemble the stuff under the tread plate (see other thread)…remove the wiring and bulb from the entry courtesy light in the side step.
3. Use masking tape to make a lines you plan to cut on your running boards (see other thread)
4. Conservatively score the line using the utility knife…continue scoring in the same line until you can penetrate the plastic and fully cut the sill. Sand your cuts.
5. Remove the steel brackets that attach the running boards to the vehicle
6. Remove the ahc globe cages/stock sliders (keep the fasteners)…this is where a wobble head ratcheting wrench is handy…as well as an electric ratchet with lots of 1/4” extensions and a a swivel…speeds things up quite a bit. Once the fasteners are out, lift upwards and pull outwards on the cages (they have a hanger that holds them in place on the frame-smart design)
7. Use a thread cleaner to clean the threads on the ahc globe cage fasteners (you’re going to reuse them and “threading” the bolts with minimal clearance for your hands is markedly easier if you have very clean threads on the bolts.
8. Rest the slider on a floor Jack and strap it down just forward of the 3rd support (it’ll balance)
9. Raise the slider into place using the jack
10. Affix the forward most and rearward most fasteners (front one is easy, rearward lowest most one is best threaded/loosely affixed using extensions between the slider and body of vehicle)…don’t completely tighten these or any other fastener until you’re done. you want enough wiggle room to lift, lower, push, or pull the slider to make sure you have not occluded the access to the various bolt holes you’ll be threading fasteners to
11. Remove the floor Jack so you’ll have more access to the bolts
12. Affix the remaining 6 (thread cleaned) bolts. I strongly recommend you get each of these started using your fingers, not a ratchet or electric ratchet-the angle is tough and the fasteners are chamfered. It’s a recipe for cross threading or damaging threads in the frame. The easiest way to have the “space” to thread these is to put your entire body under the vehicle perpendicular to the sill (or use a lift if you’ve got one). The bolt holes will be right above your face and your hands will be in a natural position. I ended up, once I figured out the right “angle” to be physically at, just using a ratcheting wrench at this point…that way I didn’t need to keep getting up or adding various lengths of ratchet extensions.
12. Torque down all your fasteners
13. Install ahc skid plates to the sliders.
The seller says these ship at 85 lbs. Considering how much plastic and metal I removed from the stock running boards, I doubt I’ve added a significant amount of weight to the vehicle.
Also, even with only a few fasteners affixed, I was still able to Jack the whole vehicle up using these sliders.
If you live near Georgia they’ll install them for you for a reasonable price
This is a pretty easy job
Necessary tools:
Wobble head ratcheting 12mm wrench
Box knife
Sandpaper/sander
Panel popper
Recommended additional tools:
Thread cleaner 1.25-8
Electric ratchet
Whole set of 1/4” extensions
Good 1/4” swivel or swiveling 12mm socket
Floor Jack
Masking tape
(Going on memory)
There’s a better thread for cutting the side steps so I’m not going to go in depth on that
Post in thread 'LX570 Running Board Removal'
LX570 Running Board Removal - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-running-board-removal.966384/post-14737557
1. Use a panel popper to remove the tread plate from the side steps (see other thread)
2. Continue using the panel popper to disassemble the stuff under the tread plate (see other thread)…remove the wiring and bulb from the entry courtesy light in the side step.
3. Use masking tape to make a lines you plan to cut on your running boards (see other thread)
4. Conservatively score the line using the utility knife…continue scoring in the same line until you can penetrate the plastic and fully cut the sill. Sand your cuts.
5. Remove the steel brackets that attach the running boards to the vehicle
6. Remove the ahc globe cages/stock sliders (keep the fasteners)…this is where a wobble head ratcheting wrench is handy…as well as an electric ratchet with lots of 1/4” extensions and a a swivel…speeds things up quite a bit. Once the fasteners are out, lift upwards and pull outwards on the cages (they have a hanger that holds them in place on the frame-smart design)
7. Use a thread cleaner to clean the threads on the ahc globe cage fasteners (you’re going to reuse them and “threading” the bolts with minimal clearance for your hands is markedly easier if you have very clean threads on the bolts.
8. Rest the slider on a floor Jack and strap it down just forward of the 3rd support (it’ll balance)
9. Raise the slider into place using the jack
10. Affix the forward most and rearward most fasteners (front one is easy, rearward lowest most one is best threaded/loosely affixed using extensions between the slider and body of vehicle)…don’t completely tighten these or any other fastener until you’re done. you want enough wiggle room to lift, lower, push, or pull the slider to make sure you have not occluded the access to the various bolt holes you’ll be threading fasteners to
11. Remove the floor Jack so you’ll have more access to the bolts
12. Affix the remaining 6 (thread cleaned) bolts. I strongly recommend you get each of these started using your fingers, not a ratchet or electric ratchet-the angle is tough and the fasteners are chamfered. It’s a recipe for cross threading or damaging threads in the frame. The easiest way to have the “space” to thread these is to put your entire body under the vehicle perpendicular to the sill (or use a lift if you’ve got one). The bolt holes will be right above your face and your hands will be in a natural position. I ended up, once I figured out the right “angle” to be physically at, just using a ratcheting wrench at this point…that way I didn’t need to keep getting up or adding various lengths of ratchet extensions.
12. Torque down all your fasteners
13. Install ahc skid plates to the sliders.
The seller says these ship at 85 lbs. Considering how much plastic and metal I removed from the stock running boards, I doubt I’ve added a significant amount of weight to the vehicle.
Also, even with only a few fasteners affixed, I was still able to Jack the whole vehicle up using these sliders.
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