ARCHIVE Titan TW12 - 12,000 lbs winch w/ synthetic line (Group Buy)

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ah, interesting, they are not threaded it seems. Slide a nut in there? Hopefully the bolts fit the holes very snugly, you don't want any slop or slanted bolts.
 
ah, interesting, they are not threaded it seems. Slide a nut in there? Hopefully the bolts fit the holes very snugly, you don't want any slop or slanted bolts.

The winch I have is setup that exact way, there is a little square grade 8 nut that slides in there, and there really isn't much slop with the bolt/nut. Snugged down pretty tight, I doubt it would go anywhere.
 
ah, interesting, they are not threaded it seems. Slide a nut in there? Hopefully the bolts fit the holes very snugly, you don't want any slop or slanted bolts.

yup - flat sided nuts are included - don't have the same consequence as when a bolt is cross threaded into a tapped base (as happened to my MileMarker by PO's mechanic) - on the other hand, the nuts on the Titan are not very long; I would prefer a longer threaded contact
 
yup - flat sided nuts are included - don't have the same consequence as when a bolt is cross threaded into a tapped base (as happened to my MileMarker by PO's mechanic) - on the other hand, the nuts on the Titan are not very long; I would prefer a longer threaded contact

I had the same problem with my winch bolts. I used 3/8" thick steel to make my plate, and the bolts were not long enough for my liking.
 
here's a close up pic of the feet:

Looks just like any other Chinese winch feet I have seen in the 8-12K range. Some even have the names of other winch makers cast into them, like T-max or MileMarker on a no name winch.
 
yup - flat sided nuts are included - don't have the same consequence as when a bolt is cross threaded into a tapped base (as happened to my MileMarker by PO's mechanic) - on the other hand, the nuts on the Titan are not very long; I would prefer a longer threaded contact

I had the same problem with my winch bolts. I used 3/8" thick steel to make my plate, and the bolts were not long enough for my liking.

Same issue with bolt length for me too. I picked up four 40mm M10 1.50 Grade 10.8 bolts at the hardware store for $4.50 and was good to go. If my winch rips off, it will be because I was using it as a bungee jump for my truck.
 
ah, interesting, they are not threaded it seems. Slide a nut in there? Hopefully the bolts fit the holes very snugly, you don't want any slop or slanted bolts.

This method is nothing new or revolutionary. My 20+ yr old Ramsey 8K planatary (that was replaced by the HF 12K) is exactly the same.
As a comment to a previous point: I've always been partial to the feet forward attachment for a winch. IMHO, it's just common sense that feet forward is the strongest and best way to go. It would be virtually impossible to break the mounting bolts in a winching situation with the feet forward mount. But, never say never - I'm sure someone will eventually prove that wrong. I hope it's not me :hillbilly:
 
Looks just like any other Chinese winch feet I have seen in the 8-12K range. Some even have the names of other winch makers cast into them, like T-max or MileMarker on a no name winch.

huge China winch factory .. they sell and export directly if you want .. ( very good prices only export pallets not individual winches )

Xdyna_Home
 
UPDATE:

When installing my TW12, I ran into a couple issues with how to properly install and snug up the synthetic winch line. Duncan includes a detachable braket for securing the winch line to the drum but I was not 100% certain on how to install is safely and securely. I found a great link for those of you without a lon of winching experience that explains what is in all actuality a very simple procedure. Just thought it might help those who have never installed a synthetic winch line before.

http://www.winchline.com/documents/Viking Truck Winchline Instructions v1.2.pdf

The pics reference feeding the line through the hole in the bracket and then laying it across the drum in a manner that allows the first 5 wraps to secure the end of the line.
 
And then 2 week after delivery I get an invoice from FedEx for $8.00 for the "customs fee"....
 
OregonLC said:
And then 2 week after delivery I get an invoice from FedEx for $8.00 for the "customs fee"....

Me too. Nice.
 
I've installed the TW12 on my ARB. I currently have the solenoid mounted on the winch's tie bars, but I had to drill in a couple of new holes to lower it enough to gain limited access to the plug. Even now I can only access with the wired remote. Nothing wrong with the TW12, just the spacing of the ARB combo with the front cross member.

I've decided that I'm going to relocate the solenoid under the hood, but I'm on the fence as to what the best location is. I'm not finding a ton of threads that speak to this in the 100 section. Where are you guys planning on mounting the solenoid? Oh, where's the best place to get wire to do this? For longer runs do I need lower gauge wire?
image-2890361931.webp
 
I've installed the TW12 on my ARB. I currently have the solenoid mounted on the winch's tie bars, but I had to drill in a couple of new holes to lower it enough to gain limited access to the plug. Even now I can only access with the wired remote. Nothing wrong with the TW12, just the spacing of the ARB combo with the front cross member.

I've decided that I'm going to relocate the solenoid under the hood, but I'm on the fence as to what the best location is. I'm not finding a ton of threads that speak to this in the 100 section. Where are you guys planning on mounting the solenoid? Oh, where's the best place to get wire to do this? For longer runs do I need lower gauge wire?

Look at my build thread. Page 6, post 109. You will see where I relocated my solenoid box. I got the wire from my local car audio shop.
 
BBQ BOY said:
Look at my build thread. Page 6, post 109. You will see where I relocated my solenoid box. I got the wire from my local car audio shop.

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see where you relocated it in your pics? Any chance you you can snap a couple of pics showing where and how you mounted it?
 
next to the battery... that is nicely tucked in there...great job...slick place for the remote, I may add :cool:
 
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Nevermind - I see the pics on page 8! Thanks!
 
I winched a full size tahoe SUV that was buried up to its frame and hung up on a underground stump with mine without issue...and then 5 minutes later pulled out a FJ62 that was also stuck up to its frame in sucky mud without a problem. Done about 10 pulls on my TW12 winch without an issue.....

Not noticed any bending or damage to spacers on winch from this....so not sure it is an issue to be truthful as nearly every application is set up for feet down installs....

Also not sure how feet forward or feet down affect the build of the winch as it is a round cylinder with equal pressure being exerted around it no matter position of feet.

If talking about mounting strength.....feet forward would give you more spread of force against bottom of feet of winch against steel plate than just relying on strength of bolts and mount plate to hold it with all the torque being applied.

I do think it is more of an issue on the strength of mounting bolts and mounting plate when considering feet down or forward and your bumper structure....but only remember one bumper I have ever helped with that was feet forward...think it was an ALL PRO for an FJC but it had issues with ripping entire bumper loose on pulls anyhow. LOL
 
Well great. I just found out the Titan will not fit the ARB bumper for the 80 Series. The motor is too long. Guess I'll be selling the winch. Too bad, I loved my last Titan.
 

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