Any advice on how to get the top nut off of the rear shock? Doesn't appear to be much room up there... 
Tips/tricks for removing rear shocks. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter hh65flyer
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Remove the two nuts that hold the plate up, not going to remove the top nut without removing the mounting plate. Remove the lower bolt, remove the two upper mounting plate nuts, slide off bottom shock mount. Shock with upper mount plate will drop out. Then remove the top eye nut and pull shock out of upper mount plate.
Ditto, Once the plate is off it will all make sense.
- Thread starter
- #4
I saw those and was hoping this was the answer. Much better access, I knew Mr. T wouldn't let me down!!
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Use a penetrating oil and let it soak. These bolts tend to round off very easily. If that happens pick up a set of bolt removal sockets from a parts store and forget drilling them out.
And then use an impact wrench on the top nut if its rusty. Or grind/cut it off.
I spray the tops of these threads with wax-oil or spray grease after the new shocks and nuts are all bolted up so that it can come apart again when needed.
- Thread starter
- #7
Soaking in PB Blast as we speak... I sure hope they don't round off. I have the fuel tank out now so access is slightly better. Thanks again for the tips.
I planned on replacing mine last week, but chose to soak down the bolts in preparation 
I figure today or tomorrow depending on the weather
I figure today or tomorrow depending on the weather
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
It's the lower shock mount bolts that gave me hell. But a good soaking in a good penetrating oil will go a long way
The lowers gave me the most headache as well...
After breaking 2 on my first shock change, I went for some heat. The bottom bolt seemed to break very easily for me, so be cautious and patient. The penetrating oil will need some time to get into the threads as they go fairly deep. Drilling out broken bolts that size is never fun.
I was also battling Midwest corrosion, so yours may not be as bad.
After breaking 2 on my first shock change, I went for some heat. The bottom bolt seemed to break very easily for me, so be cautious and patient. The penetrating oil will need some time to get into the threads as they go fairly deep. Drilling out broken bolts that size is never fun.
I was also battling Midwest corrosion, so yours may not be as bad.
having done this many times and being up here in New England where rust is prevalent I have a rather different approach but it does guarantee success.
For the upper bolts, I raise the truck up on 12ton jack stands on the frame just in front of the rear LCA frame mount and then left the rear axle hang.
I then can grab my trusty sawz all with a long blade and cut down into the shock nut on a diagonal. You don't need to go all the way through but the more the better. This way the nut will expand some as you take it off.
On the bottom bolt I cut the shock's eye leaving the bolt and rubber cushion in place after removing the shock. I then cut off the rubber cushion and torch the metal stud until the bolt loosens.
penetrating oils don't work around here and going at it with bruit ignorance means broken hardware and a bunch of drilling and tapping to finish the job correctly.
hope this helps
For the upper bolts, I raise the truck up on 12ton jack stands on the frame just in front of the rear LCA frame mount and then left the rear axle hang.
I then can grab my trusty sawz all with a long blade and cut down into the shock nut on a diagonal. You don't need to go all the way through but the more the better. This way the nut will expand some as you take it off.
On the bottom bolt I cut the shock's eye leaving the bolt and rubber cushion in place after removing the shock. I then cut off the rubber cushion and torch the metal stud until the bolt loosens.
penetrating oils don't work around here and going at it with bruit ignorance means broken hardware and a bunch of drilling and tapping to finish the job correctly.
hope this helps
I'm happy to say mine came out with ease after soaking the bolts for a few days 
Original shocks with 337,xxx miles
Original shocks with 337,xxx miles
- Thread starter
- #13
Used the Landtank method with great success...
Top bolts came out fairly easy with the proper-sized 6pt socket and impact gun (this after a couple days soaking in PB.
I used my cut-off wheel to cut and split apart the lower 'eye' portion of the shock. After peeling off the old rubber bushing, I hit the shock mount with a lot of heat. The lower bolt came out again with the impact gun. I used the lowest setting possible (continually backing it off as appropriate) to minimize the chance of spinning the head off.
My shocks were also original (173K) and completely collapsed with just gravity after removing the top bolts! Looking forward to my new 'ride'. Thanks for all the help and tips guys...completed the job without any broken bolts!
Top bolts came out fairly easy with the proper-sized 6pt socket and impact gun (this after a couple days soaking in PB.
I used my cut-off wheel to cut and split apart the lower 'eye' portion of the shock. After peeling off the old rubber bushing, I hit the shock mount with a lot of heat. The lower bolt came out again with the impact gun. I used the lowest setting possible (continually backing it off as appropriate) to minimize the chance of spinning the head off.
My shocks were also original (173K) and completely collapsed with just gravity after removing the top bolts! Looking forward to my new 'ride'. Thanks for all the help and tips guys...completed the job without any broken bolts!
Wait till you do your PHH then see if you still think that !
I installed an OME stock height lift and I used the Landtank method on my rear shocks this past Monday. It really saved the day.
After I cut off the lower eye (it was hard to get a bite on the round eye with the sawzall I applied a little heat and eased out the bolt a couple threads at a time with a regular shot of kroil. The bolt threads were flattened, but the stud seemed to clean out fine with a tap. It removed some rusty crud, but didn't find anything significant.
The inner upper plate mount bolts came out fine, but the outer ones wouldn't budge. A 12" sawzall blade fixed that problem. The blade cut the upper shock nut off cleanly and my friend pulled out the shock.
After I cut off the lower eye (it was hard to get a bite on the round eye with the sawzall I applied a little heat and eased out the bolt a couple threads at a time with a regular shot of kroil. The bolt threads were flattened, but the stud seemed to clean out fine with a tap. It removed some rusty crud, but didn't find anything significant.
The inner upper plate mount bolts came out fine, but the outer ones wouldn't budge. A 12" sawzall blade fixed that problem. The blade cut the upper shock nut off cleanly and my friend pulled out the shock.
About to remove the rear shocks and the top nuts / mounting plate show more rust than most of the suspension.
To avoid breaking these studs, I've read that using an impact to break them free is better than using a ratchet. Wouldn't that just break the stud immediately?
I normally use a few days of Kroil, heat, and then try to move the nut 1/4 turn, spray it, tighten, and continue process that until it's off.
To avoid breaking these studs, I've read that using an impact to break them free is better than using a ratchet. Wouldn't that just break the stud immediately?
I normally use a few days of Kroil, heat, and then try to move the nut 1/4 turn, spray it, tighten, and continue process that until it's off.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Impact is the safer bet.
The percussion from an impact will shake stuff loose at lower torque than using a ratchet.
And Never-Seez is a NE mechanics best friend.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
@florida95fzj the real problem isn't usually with rust in the nut, but rust at rhe bottom of the nut which is ground into the threads as the nut is removed. Try to clean the exposed threads as much as possbile, then try to remove the nut.
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