Timing question? (1 Viewer)

[White Sheep]

I hope I'm asking this correctly. How many times do the camshafts spin per one time the distributor rotor spins?

So here's what happened. Last Saturday I (with some help) changed the dizzy o-ring. Took the valve cover off, got everything at dead center 0 degrees on the balancer, and lined the notches on the distributor. Put everything back together and fired up.

Checked the timing and it was retard (in the negatives). Adjusting the distributor barely moved it to 0 degrees.

Not wanting to take the valve cover off, we lined back up at 0 degrees and took the distributor off (not thinking) then realized the rotor was in the 5-6'oclock. rotated the balancer 360 degrees back to 0, checked the #1 piston was up and re-did the distributor. Got the timing where it needed to be (engine stumbled a little, but its been having a stumble lately). Attempted to jump the ports but while pretending liking im working, read a few threads and im sure we jumped incorrectly.

This morning, went out to warm up the LC and there was a weird noise. I figured it was just COLD. Came back 10 mins later and the CEL was on saying multiple misfires. So im asking above to see if i need to give another spin to the balancer, or do I need to jump ports correctly (or both), or what?

Note: reading this back to myself, im sure we spin the balancer/cams to the right position, but imma let it ride because I still might be wrong. Thanks for the help, and don't roast me too hard ; p

 

[NorCalFJ100]

When in doubt, start over per the FSM and get it done right!! I'm sure you just have something off in the alignment of everything and then set the timing.

 

[BILT4ME]

I hope I'm asking this correctly. How many times do the camshafts spin per one time the distributor rotor spins?

So here's what happened. Last Saturday I (with some help) changed the dizzy o-ring. Took the valve cover off, got everything at dead center 0 degrees on the balancer, and lined the notches on the distributor. Put everything back together and fired up.

Checked the timing and it was retard (in the negatives). Adjusting the distributor barely moved it to 0 degrees.

Not wanting to take the valve cover off, we lined back up at 0 degrees and took the distributor off (not thinking) then realized the rotor was in the 5-6'oclock. rotated the balancer 360 degrees back to 0, checked the #1 piston was up and re-did the distributor. Got the timing where it needed to be (engine stumbled a little, but its been having a stumble lately). Attempted to jump the ports but while pretending liking im working, read a few threads and im sure we jumped incorrectly.

This morning, went out to warm up the LC and there was a weird noise. I figured it was just COLD. Came back 10 mins later and the CEL was on saying multiple misfires. So im asking above to see if i need to give another spin to the balancer, or do I need to jump ports correctly (or both), or what?

Note: reading this back to myself, im sure we spin the balancer/cams to the right position, but imma let it ride because I still might be wrong. Thanks for the help, and don't roast me too hard ; p

The camshaft turns half as many times as the crankshaft.
The distributor turns one time for every revolution of the camshaft (half as fast as the crankshaft)

You can do the distributor without having the engine at TDC, however, you MUST install it correctly and place it in the EXACT same position when placing it back in. If not, you MUST start at ground zero.

I think you are at the "ground zero" point.
Rotate the engine so the harmonic balancer has the mark on TDC. This will either be on the compression stroke or it will be 180° off. When you are rotating the engine, pull #1 spark plug and stuff a paper towel into the tube. If it puffs out the paper towel (or you can see/feel/hear) the engine is pushing air up the tube, it means it is on the compression stroke. If not, it will be on the exhaust stroke and the exhaust valve will be open, no air will push up through the tube. You can also do this with a compression tester if you have one.

Using a sharpie, mark the side of the distributor body where the #1 terminal is on the cap so you have a reference point when the cap is removed.
Once TDC on the compression stroke has been achieved and verified, then pull the cap off the distributor to confirm location. The rotor should be pointing DIRECTLY at the mark you made on the side of the distributor housing. Make sure you are looking at it STRAIGHT on and not down at an angle. Use your phone to take a straight on pic of the assembly and alignment.

If they are not perfectly aligned, then you may have installed the dizzy one tooth off. (This is what it sounds like you are describing). Pull the distributor, realign, and reinstall.

Don't forget that when you are doing the actual timing check, you MUST bypass the computer with the paperclip in the diagnostic port in order to adjust the timing or the computer will just try to readjust to it's own limits. I think that's what's happening here.

 

[White Sheep]

Thanks as always I'm pretty sure its the tooth/paperclip also. Been thinking about it all last night

 

[flintknapper]

Sounds like you did it right, probably just off a tooth or two when inserting the dizzy.

After bringing the #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke, just line up the match marks on the dizzy, stab it such that the 'slot' for the capture bolt is pretty much centered on the bolt hole in the head. Press the dizzy staight in and DON'T twist it in any way. With the cap off you'll see the rotor rotate clockwise as it engages the cam gear. It will go from roughly a 10 O'Clock position to pointing at the far edge of the distributor connector. This should get you in the 'ballpark' for starting the engine.

Jumper the diagnostic port so the timing light reading doesn't move all over the place, then rotate the dizzy in whatever direction needed to achieve 3° BTDC (though I run mine at 5°).

Tighten down your capture bolt, remove the jumper and take it for a spin.

 

[White Sheep]

Thanks, and thank you for the pictures. Helps a lot

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks, and thank you for the pictures. Helps a lot

Da Nada,

That's what we are all here for. Help each other out.

 

[lumbee1]

This is great information. I'm sure my dizzy o-ring has never been replaced but hasn't started leaking yet.

 

[White Sheep]

This is great information. I'm sure my dizzy o-ring has never been replaced but hasn't started leaking yet.

I thought the same and never had any leaks but during a meet-up with the @tornadoalleycruiser talking to @BILT4ME and @chap79, they told me it is one of the things I need to do. After closer inspection, a mechanic used FIPG on all gaskets in the LC so I'm slowly going to have to get inside of everything and replace with gaskets. Anyway, we opened the distributor, razor'd off the FIPG and the "o-ring" crumbled.

 

[flintknapper]

After closer inspection, a mechanic used FIPG on all gaskets in the LC Anyway, we opened the distributor, razor'd off the FIPG and the "o-ring" crumbled.

^^^^^

Tell me about it. Just finished doing a Timing Belt/Water Pump job on my Wife's 100 series and found the both the Water Pump and Water Inlet had been siliconed in place! This was done at a dealership too.


Pretty common for the 80 series dizzy Oring to shrink up, become brittle and leak. Toyota Part 90099-14118

You guys getting snow yet up there in Kansas? Lived in the SouthEast corner (Independence) for 6 yrs as a kid.

 

[White Sheep]

^^^^^

Tell me about it. Just finished doing a Timing Belt/Water Pump job on my Wife's 100 series and found the both the Water Pump and Water Inlet had been siliconed in place! This was done at a dealership too.


Pretty common for the 80 series dizzy Oring to shrink up, become brittle and leak. Toyota Part 90099-14118

You guys getting snow yet up there in Kansas? Lived in the SouthEast corner (Independence) for 6 yrs as a kid.

No snow yet, well I think it kind of sprinkled 3-4 weeks ago.

 

[White Sheep]

Getting things ready for this timing adjustment and tried the paperclip trick. . It's not working for me. I've used different types of paperclips. Made sure it was inside the female TE1 and E1 terminals. Turned the key to ACC. . Nothing and turned the truck completely on. . Nothing. I know the CEL works because from stumbling when I turn it on these few mornings, it throws the misfired codes