Timing chain replacement? (8 Viewers)

Joined
Dec 18, 2003
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B,

If I don't replace the timing chain, then it shouldn't affect my engine. I remember I had an old '89 Acura Integra...when I gambled at 120K miles and unfortunately the timing belt broke that caused severe head damage.

I don't want to get snake-bitten twice. What do you think?

Thanks,
E
 
Joined
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Your Acura had a timing belt which required changing every ~60k-90k, your LX does not have a timing belt, it has a timing chain, which should last the life of your engine ~300k.
 
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I'm not sure what your question is, but the 1FZ-FE engine has a gear driven timing chain, not a timing belt. Big difference. Replacing the timing chain would be a very big project; probably 20 hours for an experienced mechanic; maybe 40 hours if you DIY in your garage.

My 97 has 130k miles and I haven't even considered replacing the timing chain as PM. (Now the HG is another issue....)

-B-

-B-
 
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Turbocruiser, to answer your question, most of the rest of the world has plenty of other engine choices, to make sure their LC's reach the ends of the earth, while we in the US (where these rigs rarley stray from pavement), think that a "V8" is the most powerful, luxurious, enigne which will provide us with the highest status and neighbor envy. :)
 
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[quote author=turbocruiser link=board=2;threadid=10118;start=msg90174#msg90174 date=1074062606]
...why did Toyota decide to put a timing belt (instead of timing chain) into the 100 series, and double why did Toyota decide to make that engine an interference engine?

[/quote]

So the 100 has an interference engine?
and the 80 is not?

That's good. but I agree that it's weird to suddenly move to belt and interference engine at the same time. Bad combo.

R
 
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[quote author=Riley link=board=2;threadid=10118;start=msg90181#msg90181 date=1074063218]
So the 100 has an interference engine?
and the 80 is not?

That's good. but I agree that it's weird to suddenly move to belt and interference engine at the same time. Bad combo.

R
[/quote]

Actually I did not want to misinform, I do not know whether the 80 series engine is interference or non-interference; i just do not know, but, my point was that with the chain, even if it was interference, the chance of it snapping like a belt without warning is virtually nil. Can someone clear up whether the 80 is interference or non-interference? I know the 100 series V8 is interference design...not good in the outback, but, as someone mentioned, more engines available overseas...I think the 4.5 I6 is still available in the 100 series!?!
 
R

robbie

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Th 1FZ is a non interfenrence fit engine, the damptner is the design problem in the set (chain, slipper, damptner). THe damptner is aluminum with plastic and they change the way the plastic is mounted to the aluminum so it does not break as easly. I have only done a couple of these jobs. The FSM says to remove the head and the 2 oil pans to get to the timing cover and remove it (Toyota labor times 15.1 R/R head, 6 hrs R/R pans, 3.5 timing chain R/R) I do the job by just removeing the Pans and timing cover in about 12-13 hrs.
AS for the 100 series v-8, timing belts are cheap compared to chains in the design of an engine. I beleive in the future you will see more manafactures going back to chains to get away from belts (toyota new 4L v-6 is three chains) Toyota diesels have belts also that need to be changed at 60 k miles. Noise was also a consideration of either gears and chains VS belts, a quiter engine. later Robbie
 
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Robbie, Any special precautions to take when removing the timing cover with the head in place? Had any HG issues after doing that? I've got a small oil leak from the timing cover somewhere, and I want to re-goo it without removing the head.

FYI I replaced the timing set on my fzj80 during an engine rebuild at 146K miles, and the old parts still looked new.
 

cruiserdan

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C-man,

The procedure Robbie outlined is exactly what I just did for the oil leak(less actually replacing the chain). I have no leaks at the cover currently. At 116k my chain looked fine, I replaced the slipper mentioned by Robbie with the new design. I also replaced the tensioner with the new design while it was apart.
 
R

robbie

Guest
THe bolts in the head need removing. When down to the timing cover remove the oil pump cover then the gears. Pull all studs to allow you to pry off the cover. THen reverse. Will need the o rings and fpig to put it back together.
100 series is straight forward and is best to follow the FSM to not miss a step. I would get and idler pully's and the water pump to replace when you do it. The water pump I would replace jsut so you do not have to do it inbetween belt changes. Make sure you can return any items not used. Set a side a long day or the weekend if you are not really great with tools. later Robbie
 
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[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=10118;start=msg90314#msg90314 date=1074099450]
C-man,

The procedure Robbie outlined is exactly what I just did for the oil leak(less actually replacing the chain). I have no leaks at the cover currently. At 116k my chain looked fine, I replaced the slipper mentioned by Robbie with the new design. I also replaced the tensioner with the new design while it was apart.
[/quote]

Dan, I have your experience in the back of my head :). Robbie has done a few, and I wanted to see if he had any problems with leaking HG. Maybe you got lucky ;) :D.

Now to figure out how to get the screws out of the oil pump section :-\.
 

cruiserdan

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I used a hand impact driver, the type you smack with a hammer. I removed the timing cover with the pump intact and took the oil pump cover off with the timing cover on the bench. I had everything else as Robbie just described. It's not bad coming off that way but to line the cover back up the gears need to be out of the way.
 

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