Timing advance (1 Viewer)

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I used to have a tbi setup . I ran it for over a decade . It had a knock sensor , I insulated it from the block with a piece of rubber as per an article I read at some point . Over the years it ran really well , never left me stranded on the trail but it never really ran perfectly all of the time . I did have a speed sensor hooked up for a while and it didn't help . I never really got into tuning the prom or ecm . It seemed to run well enough for me not to bother trying to get every little wild hair that happened occasionally . Most of the issues I had were from running an HEI distributor . It used to chew up the magnetic pickup inside occasionally . I tried different distributors (toyota electronic) over the years and they never ran as well as it did with the DUI unit . From my understanding , the ecm controls the amount of advance by using the knock sensor in relation to retard the timing . 15 degrees is its capability iirc. If you don't have a knock sensor , you will have a trouble code and it won't run closed loop (all sensors responding as they should) FWIW I used to run my timing anywhere from 12 to 18 degrees via timing gun with the spout wore unplugged . Most of the time closer to 12 . I have since moved on and now run a 3fe . It is all toyota and runs better than it ever did with a TBI .
I guess one of my issues is trying to squeeze every bit of juice out of it. Eventually you reach the point where thats all their is, I think I am approaching that point, but from what I know of the stock timing curve, I was curious how much people were setting their initial advance with a stock setup and their experiences with such. That would give me insight in how much advance the 2f can handle. The timing curve is a huge part of getting the most power out of it. I think my peak timing is just about right, I have a feeling the timing curve though needs to be steeper initially from 1000 to 2000 rpm than I have it and I may be able to get a little more juice out if it.
 
Couldn't resist:
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what is your base timing set at with that dui dist? just picked one up. at 700 above sea level, 86 completely desmogged 2f eng.
 
Ok so in response to Mark: so after a maddening bout with this, I found a small vacuum leak At a plug that was added by the PO on the intake. It didn’t show up Ike’s you sprayed half a can of carb cleaner on it…some Gasoila did the trick and back to timing carb and valves… again. So, I took it for a ride and it drives really well at 13*..

this madness started because my fj40 doesn’t like Mr Toyota’s timing…. I’m trying to figure out why… so my numbers are as follows: 7* BTDC -16hg, 10*-17hg and 13*- 18. Compression: cylinders 2-6: 150psi. Cylinder 1: 145psi.
1977 distributor with points.
My other issue is the two vacuum gauges I own show vibration in the needle as if valve guides were loose, but the head went to the machine shop where it was serviced. Either I got jipped by the machinist (I hope not) or I’m getting way to anal at my age.. wanted to get some in put.. also, isn’t 16-18hg low on a motor with 150psi?
 
Ok so in response to Mark: so after a maddening bout with this, I found a small vacuum leak At a plug that was added by the PO on the intake. It didn’t show up Ike’s you sprayed half a can of carb cleaner on it…some Gasoila did the trick and back to timing carb and valves… again. So, I took it for a ride and it drives really well at 13*..

this madness started because my fj40 doesn’t like Mr Toyota’s timing…. I’m trying to figure out why… so my numbers are as follows: 7* BTDC -16hg, 10*-17hg and 13*- 18. Compression: cylinders 2-6: 150psi. Cylinder 1: 145psi.
1977 distributor with points.
My other issue is the two vacuum gauges I own show vibration in the needle as if valve guides were loose, but the head went to the machine shop where it was serviced. Either I got jipped by the machinist (I hope not) or I’m getting way to anal at my age.. wanted to get some in put.. also, isn’t 16-18hg low on a motor with 150psi?
Reset the valve lash per FSM and the needle should stop vibrating. FSM method is conservative.😉
 
So those numbers are good? Ahh…. So valve lash on the tight side?
I didn’t say that. First step is try and stop the vibration. That could cause a valve to burn.☹️
 

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