Time to sell my Montero and buy a LX!

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Get the truck, update maintenance, then enjoy it. See if you need the AHC or not. Trailed my 570 since Day 1 from 20 OEM to 34/17 tires/wheels- never had a beat to change my AHC. Best of luck :)
 
I'm not sure I would put AHC or even Alternator on that list as common issue points, but sure, would be worthwhile to check out and look at the maintenance history. AHC is flush every 60k.

Agreed with Radiator and Water Pump. I'd add:
- Center Locker actuator
- 4Lo actuator
- A/C recirculation door
- Rear hatch actuator (weak struts)
 
I'm not sure I would put AHC or even Alternator on that list as common issue points, but sure, would be worthwhile to check out and look at the maintenance history. AHC is flush every 60k.

Agreed with Radiator and Water Pump. I'd add:
- Center Locker actuator
- 4Lo actuator
- A/C recirculation door
- Rear hatch actuator (weak struts)

Yeah sorry, if i hadnt seen a few get replaced i wouldnt have even brought it up.

@chriscosta416 dont mind that, pretty much only debris for the somewhat low alternator is a concern but if it was on road thats a non issue.
 
So as I continue to prep my Montero for sale and look for an LX - any thing I should look for? any specifics to check specific to the LX570?

My budget fits the 08-12 years so is any year preferred over the other?

Also, anyone have a dog barrier in theres? Like the Aussia Travelall ones? My dog likes to jump way to much
2010+ has bluetooth audio for music built in. 08-09 only have bluetooth for calling. If you are going to do a GROM, I believe this would be irrelevant. The AV system in general got a minor update between 09 and 10. Other than that, there isn't much different for the 08-11 models.

The main service for AHC is replacing globes ($600) and flushing fluid ($100) to be done every 60k-100k miles.

Radiator has a common failure point, you can search MUD for what to look for (cracking on top of radiator that is easy to spot)

The biggest things in my mind are

coolant leak in valley plate under the intake (see MUD or any Tundra forum). Easiest to spot from under the vehicle looking for pink residue down the transmission where it connects to the engine. Or inspection camera under the intake.

Oil leaks near top of engine. Oil will be pooled up in the spark plug holes. I don't think this is as common in LX/LCs as Tundras, and have also read, that if it isn't leaking too much it's not that big a deal, although it takes an experienced mechanic to fix correctly.

SAIS Issues - Can be easily bypassed assuming you get the good failure, but if isn't worked out, can send the truck into limp mode regularly. Good place to start researching. Need a scan tool or to spot a bypass module already installed (i wouldn't' run from a properly installed bypass module. I consider the bypass the best fix for the issue).

Leaks into the interior. Common leaks are from poorly installed replacement windshields, plugged sunroof drains, and plastic cowl between hood and windshield has a gasket that as it ages can let water into the hvac fresh air intake that then ends up on the passenger floor. The biggest problem with leaks is that Toyota has large electrical distribution centers near the bottom of the A pillar on both sides of the car. When water gets in these, all sorts of things can go haywire.
 
2010+ has bluetooth audio for music built in. 08-09 only have bluetooth for calling. If you are going to do a GROM, I believe this would be irrelevant. The AV system in general got a minor update between 09 and 10. Other than that, there isn't much different for the 08-11 models.

The main service for AHC is replacing globes ($600) and flushing fluid ($100) to be done every 60k-100k miles.

Radiator has a common failure point, you can search MUD for what to look for (cracking on top of radiator that is easy to spot)

The biggest things in my mind are

coolant leak in valley plate under the intake (see MUD or any Tundra forum). Easiest to spot from under the vehicle looking for pink residue down the transmission where it connects to the engine. Or inspection camera under the intake.

Oil leaks near top of engine. Oil will be pooled up in the spark plug holes. I don't think this is as common in LX/LCs as Tundras, and have also read, that if it isn't leaking too much it's not that big a deal, although it takes an experienced mechanic to fix correctly.

SAIS Issues - Can be easily bypassed assuming you get the good failure, but if isn't worked out, can send the truck into limp mode regularly. Good place to start researching. Need a scan tool or to spot a bypass module already installed (i wouldn't' run from a properly installed bypass module. I consider the bypass the best fix for the issue).

Leaks into the interior. Common leaks are from poorly installed windshields, plugged sunroof drains, and plastic cowl between hood and windshield has a gasket that as it ages can let water into the hvac fresh air intake that then ends up on the passenger floor. The biggest problem with leaks is that Toyota has large electrical distribution centers near the bottom of the A pillar on both sides of the car. When water gets in these, all sorts of things can go haywire.

Yes, yes yes and also PCV gunking and heater Ts crumbling if i recall are still an issue. Im nitpicking here, not that its not a problem but it could show how well it was looked after if those details were addressed.
And I dont want to scare eem off either.
 
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Yes, yes yes and also PCV gunking and heater Ts crumbling if i recall are still an issue.
Dont want to scare eem off though.
I would add, that a lot of this stuff is maintenance items, that I would think anyone buying a truck with 150k miles on it would expect to have to service. Honestly none of this stuff is super serious, unless ignored and ruined some system it's attached to. Even the valley plate coolant leak looks like it can be repaired by a competent shadetree in a day for not a lot of money.
 
I would add, that a lot of this stuff is maintenance items, that I would think anyone buying a truck with 150k miles on it would expect to have to service. Honestly none of this stuff is super serious, unless ignored and ruined some system it's attached to. Even the valley plate coolant leak looks like it can be repaired by a competent shadetree in a day for not a lot of money.

Edited my comment right as you wrote this. Absolutely.
 
So as I continue to prep my Montero for sale and look for an LX - any thing I should look for? any specifics to check specific to the LX570?

My budget fits the 08-12 years so is any year preferred over the other?

Also, anyone have a dog barrier in theres? Like the Aussia Travelall ones? My dog likes to jump way to much
No good metal pet/cargo barriers out there. Manufacturers seem to be gun shy of the airbag interference.

Travall released one that seemed promising a few months ago, but I bought one and it didn't fit. Not even close. It was way too small, probably for a Prado. They took it back and refunded my money. Kaon has one where the bottom attaches to the second row seat back headrests (no go for me with people that like reclining seats). Trekboxx and ARB have offerings that integrate with their own cargo box systems.

Raingler makes a net barrier, which is decent. I had one on my 13, but wasn't in love with the fit/attachment system. I may do a Raingler again for my current rig, but have other projects ahead of it. I got in on a group buy for the last one but full retail on them is more than I want to pay.

I need something though, the idea of projectiles stresses me out.
 
No good metal pet/cargo barriers out there. Manufacturers seem to be gun shy of the airbag interference.

Travall released one that seemed promising a few months ago, but I bought one and it didn't fit. Not even close. It was way too small, probably for a Prado. They took it back and refunded my money. Kaon has one where the bottom attaches to the second row seat back headrests (no go for me with people that like reclining seats). Trekboxx and ARB have offerings that integrate with their own cargo box systems.

Raingler makes a net barrier, which is decent. I had one on my 13, but wasn't in love with the fit/attachment system. I may do a Raingler again for my current rig, but have other projects ahead of it. I got in on a group buy for the last one but full retail on them is more than I want to pay.

I need something though, the idea of projectiles stresses me out.
Bummer, I guess my doggo will just have free reign, fine by me
 
Ah, forgot. Add starter to the list. Specifically the big relay that's piggybacked on the starter. These go out often without indication 100-130k miles.

AHC globes I would not say are maintenance items until well into almost 200k. Sure, as with any part, there are the occasional failures but this is rare. Indications from the 100-series AHC system and anecdotally from the 200-series boards, is that these generally have pretty long lives. I'm into 141k on mine, towing on the high end of payload and tow capacity (8k travel trailer with 1200lb tongue) and are still going strong. For $600 / set, it's not bad to address preventatively to some degree.
 
Ah, forgot. Add starter to the list. Specifically the big relay that's piggybacked on the starter. These go out often without indication 100-130k miles.

AHC globes I would not say are maintenance items until well into almost 200k. Sure, as with any part, there are the occasional failures but this is rare. Indications from the 100-series AHC system and anecdotally from the 200-series boards, is that these generally have pretty long lives. I'm into 141k on mine, towing on the high end of payload and tow capacity (8k travel trailer with 1200lb tongue) and are still going strong. For $600 / set, it's not bad to address preventatively to some degree.
You think I need to change the AHC fluid right when i get it?
 
You think I need to change the AHC fluid right when i get it?

The maintenance history will let you know. Every 60k, but many have gone for much longer intervals.

Onboard flush and refresh is a rare opportunity for suspension, and one of the pros to AHC IMO. Static suspensions start wearing the moment they are installed, fluid and bleeding down their gas charge. Aftermarket suspension will need rebuilds every 30-50k, which means full uninstall and ship back to manufacture, while car is down for however long that takes. AHC is actively charged by the system pump so bleed down is not a concern. Add in a relatively simple onboard flush, and it maintains like new performance for well beyond what's normal for suspensions.
 
I'll add that the system has pretty large fluid volumes and remote damping valves. It'll do washboards for miles without building much heat. Or I should say it also has large system area to dissipate heat. I've checked after 40 miles on Death Valley and the shock bodies are barely warm.

The system is mod-able too. First thing is to get big tires as tires themselves are so much of the suspension off-road when aired down. Shock stroke can be extended to 10" at the front with LC shock spacers. This also increases payload capacity. Rear can use spacers to preload and also increase payload. Or if even beyond that, aftermarket springs or airbags even.

Lots of this is discussed all over the forum so I'd encourage you to take a look.
 
I'll add that the system has pretty large fluid volumes and remote damping valves. It'll do washboards for miles without building much heat. Or I should say it also has large system area to dissipate heat. I've checked after 40 miles on Death Valley and the shock bodies are barely warm.

The system is mod-able too. First thing is to get big tires as tires themselves are so much of the suspension off-road when aired down. Shock stroke can be extended to 10" at the front with LC shock spacers. This also increases payload capacity. Rear can use spacers to preload and also increase payload. Or if even beyond that, aftermarket springs or airbags even.

Lots of this is discussed all over the forum so I'd encourage you to take a look.
I was reading up regarding increasing fluid volume and stiffer coils which seems to be standard on the amored LX570 variants. very cool
 
I'll add that the system has pretty large fluid volumes and remote damping valves. It'll do washboards for miles without building much heat. Or I should say it also has large system area to dissipate heat. I've checked after 40 miles on Death Valley and the shock bodies are barely warm.

The system is mod-able too. First thing is to get big tires as tires themselves are so much of the suspension off-road when aired down. Shock stroke can be extended to 10" at the front with LC shock spacers. This also increases payload capacity. Rear can use spacers to preload and also increase payload. Or if even beyond that, aftermarket springs or airbags even.

Lots of this is discussed all over the forum so I'd encourage you to take a look.
I’ve been meaning to ask.. we know shock valving in a traditional suspension starts wearing immediately. The LX has at least part of its valving controlled external of the shock via restricting flow of fluid into and out of the shock body.

Does whatever they are using to restrict fluid movement not wear also? If it does, how does the system know this is happening and can it adjust? Do the suspension position sensors have enough resolution (not how precise, how often) to measure and respond to high-speed damping performance that is outside of design parameters?
 
I’ve been meaning to ask.. we know shock valving in a traditional suspension starts wearing immediately. The LX has at least part of its valving controlled external of the shock via restricting flow of fluid into and out of the shock body.

Does whatever they are using to restrict fluid movement not wear also? If it does, how does the system know this is happening and can it adjust? Do the suspension position sensors have enough resolution (not how precise, how often) to measure and respond to high-speed damping performance that is outside of design parameters?

Good question and I don't know the specifics of how the damping mechanisms are configured. I know that the front shocks do have elements of a traditional monotube shock shim stack, to at least lend some part of the damping. I looked this up before and I can't find the reference at the moment other than my own post but it has: damping actuator consists of the 16 steps step motor, a spool valve, a soft damping force valve and hard damping force valve.

To your point, it probably isn't that it can't wear, but the wear is probably not as significant as the system is variable, and could compensate. From what I understand, and what @lx200inAR has been able to recently confirm in monitoring the suspension ECU, that the system largely relaxes until necessary, which in itself will reduce a degree of wear. It has feedback loops so it could further compensate for mods or wear for example, to a degree.

I hope one of these days someone on the forums can dissect the remote dampers as you did for KDSS so we can learn more.

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The shocks are a wear item, eventually the seals leak and they get replaced for that. Mine were done by PO.
 
Good question and I don't know the specifics of how the damping mechanisms are configured. I know that the front shocks do have elements of a traditional monotube shock shim stack, to at least lend some part of the damping. I looked this up before and I can't find the reference at the moment other than my own post but it has: damping actuator consists of the 16 steps step motor, a spool valve, a soft damping force valve and hard damping force valve.

To your point, it probably isn't that it can't wear, but the wear is probably not as significant as the system is variable, and could compensate. From what I understand, and what @lx200inAR has been able to recently confirm in monitoring the suspension ECU, that the system largely relaxes until necessary, which in itself will reduce a degree of wear. It has feedback loops so it could further compensate for mods or wear for example, to a degree.

I hope one of these days someone on the forums can dissect the remote dampers as you did for KDSS so we can learn more.

View attachment 2899574
I didn't consider the system not needing to do much until asked, and yes this should reduce wear. Plus it is possible whatever is going on inside the step motors, force valves, and spool valves is inherently less prone to wear.

I also didn't consider chassis-mounted accelerometers being capable of giving feedback. Still I wonder how much these can tell about which corner needs to adjust damping to achieve desired ride quality, for instance.

If the wheel position sensors had a high enough sample rate they could give feedback too, but something tells me the AHC computer in a vehicle designed in the early 2000s won't have the processing power.

I would love to see those valves torn apart too.. was it @turbo8 that removed all of his stuff? I'd be more than willing to do a similar tear down on that stuff if it's available.
 
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