Tightening steering slop... Adjustment screw or something more? (1 Viewer)

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96 FZJ80, 370,000 miles, original gear box (untouched), tracks straight down the road like it's on rails.
Well, 1 out of 3 ain't bad. :lol:
 
I'm starting to think l should just pull the trigger on the box rebuild as it's certainly the most annoying thing I have going on with my truck. I'm at 167k miles, so I guess it's not out of line that it'd be worn.
I've got an extra steering gear out of my LX450 if you want it to send in to have rebuilt. It started leaking profusely from the sector shaft seal. I replaced it with a new steering gear last October. I'm down in Charleston, SC.
 
I've got an extra steering gear out of my LX450 if you want it to send in to have rebuilt. It started leaking profusely from the sector shaft seal. I replaced it with a new steering gear last October. I'm down in Charleston, SC.
That's awesome, I'll PM you about it!
 
Since I'm rather new to the FJ80's, I want to make sure that the steering slop that I'm experiencing is not typical for the truck. I'm pretty sure it's not, but to verify I have created a quick driving video. What you see is how much slop there is before the car starts to respond... Would you guys call this excessive play in the steering wheel?

 
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Any thoughts on the video? I'm assuming this is abnormal play in the steering, right?
 
Any thoughts on the video? I'm assuming this is abnormal play in the steering, right?
Video looks normal. But may be easier to measure while vehicle is parked and off and steering wheel is unlocked.
Other variables to consider: what is your miles? Lift height? Tire size and condition? Caster?
 
Video looks normal. But may be easier to measure while vehicle is parked and off and steering wheel is unlocked.
Other variables to consider: what is your miles? Lift height? Tire size and condition? Caster?
I did the car off thing and the steering wheel moves about the same amount with no movement of the tires.

I have 168k miles, standard height OME kit, and 285/75R16 tires.
I had the toe set after I replaced the control arm bushings... Caster is 1.2 and 1.3 degree (Alignment report from 2 months ago is attached)

20210809_102044.jpg
 
Video looks normal. But may be easier to measure while vehicle is parked and off and steering wheel is unlocked.
Other variables to consider: what is your miles? Lift height? Tire size and condition? Caster?

My thoughts after seeing your video is you need to replace the box or have it rebuilt. This is the only way to take the slop out. From my experience I went down the road of adjusting the little screw, which did jack for fixing the loose steering. All it did was make the wheel harder to turn. Then I played the game if checking all the linkages and turnbuckles. Checking bearings and bushings.

Finally just ordered up a new steering box from Dubai with 105 and no more issues with steering. Best thing I ever did and should have done it years ago. Stop kidding yourself and just replace the steering box.
 
My thoughts after seeing your video is you need to replace the box or have it rebuilt. This is the only way to take the slop out. From my experience I went down the road of adjusting the little screw, which did jack for fixing the loose steering. All it did was make the wheel harder to turn. Then I played the game if checking all the linkages and turnbuckles. Checking bearings and bushings.

Finally just ordered up a new steering box from Dubai with 105 and no more issues with steering. Best thing I ever did and should have done it years ago. Stop kidding yourself and just replace the steering box.
…and correct that caster!
 
My thoughts after seeing your video is you need to replace the box or have it rebuilt. This is the only way to take the slop out. From my experience I went down the road of adjusting the little screw, which did jack for fixing the loose steering. All it did was make the wheel harder to turn. Then I played the game if checking all the linkages and turnbuckles. Checking bearings and bushings.

Finally just ordered up a new steering box from Dubai with 105 and no more issues with steering. Best thing I ever did and should have done it years ago. Stop kidding yourself and just replace the steering box.

I think rebuild is the only viable option... When I look up the steering box at Toyota, it's ridiculously expensive... something like $4,400 list price.
 
I did the car off thing and the steering wheel moves about the same amount with no movement of the tires.

I have 168k miles, standard height OME kit, and 285/75R16 tires.
I had the toe set after I replaced the control arm bushings... Caster is 1.2 and 1.3 degree (Alignment report from 2 months ago is attached)

View attachment 2754211
I think rebuild is the only viable option... When I look up the steering box at Toyota, it's ridiculously expensive... something like $4,400 list price.
Yeah I lucked out on mine got it about 2 years ago from UAE 🇦🇪 for around $1,300.00
 
From the Red Head site... I'll have to try this tomorrow:

How Do I Check for Play?

Play can come from several places in the front end. Here is how to isolate and test the steering gear:

  1. Have the engine running
  2. Wheels on the ground and gear box on center – to make sure it is on center, go all the way to a lock position and then go half way back.
  3. With a channel lock pliers reach in above the pitman arm and clamp onto the splines of the sector, if there is not enough room for the large pliers between the housing and the pitman arm, clamp onto the sector shaft nut.
  4. Holding the pliers tight, wiggle the input shaft right at the box, not at the steering wheel. If you feel any movement in the pliers your play is not coming from within the box. Remember to check at the input shaft and not by moving the intermediate shaft. If the intermediate shaft is loose it will directly replicate play in the box.
  5. Keep in mind that travel through the gear is greatly reduced, the input shaft will go around completely 3 to 4 times and the output (sector) shaft will move way less than a half of turn. On an eighteen to one ratio box, the input shaft goes around 18 times to 1 time of the sector (output) shaft.
  6. If you do find that there is play between the input shaft and the output shaft, then watch the input shaft carefully as you turn it back and forth to see if it moves in and out of the box.
  7. Remember to check the sector shaft for movement and not the pitman arm. If the pitman arm is worn or loose it may not respond quickly when the sector shaft turns.
 
Is caster even adjustable on stock trucks?
No. It requires an aftermarket part, like correcting bushings, plates, or aftermarket arms. But if your caster is off for a stock height rig, then it is possible that the springs swapped in were for a small lift and that is why your caster is less. Id check if the radius arms have stock or aftermarket bushings, and then measure your hub center to bottom of flare height or the difference between the panhard axle and frame bolt to determine lift amount that will then help you determine how to correct your caster.
But to keep this thread on topic, Caster correction will not help steering play, It will help wondering on the road.
 
This makes a $600 Redhead rebuild look like a bargain...
Yes if your looking for a cheaper option go readhead. Mine came with the 105 sector shaft as well, which if you add to yours looking at around $800. So at that point a brand new one from Toyota is not as bad of a deal.
 
Yes if your looking for a cheaper option go readhead. Mine came with the 105 sector shaft as well, which if you add to yours looking at around $800. So at that point a brand new one from Toyota is not as bad of a deal.
Do you recall the part number that you used for the one with the 105 shaft installed?
 
New steer boxes from Toyota, for an 80, all come with the 105 sector shaft now.
 
This is the partsouq substitution PN: 4411060212. If all of the new boxes come with the 105 sector shaft, is the pitman arm listed in the diagram correct for a 105 as well or still the smaller 80? Just curious as I'm seriously debating new or Red Head. If you can buy both new from Partsouq for that amount + shipping, it may be better than the basic rebuild cost by Red Head + 105 shaft + worm gear (if needed) + finding a used 105 pitman arm. Just looking at the options...
 

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