Ticking noise in 2000 Cruiser (2 Viewers)

[ZJ2UZJ100]

Marcus550....you serious?

I'd love to call your service advisor to figure out what I have to say to get mine to agree with yours. Did he think it was emissions related? Can you PM me with a contact?

Sounds like my driver's side is cracked. Dealer replaced passenger side a couple years and 40K miles ago ago under warranty.

Now I'm at 62K miles and the driver's side is pretty darn loud. Definitely not the lifters. Mostly a problem when started/cold, and engine is under load. It is noticeably quieter once warmed up...but still there.


My initial call to the SA (I don't really have a regular one since I've been doing my own O/L/F service) was not very encouraging. "Power train warranty item; would have been covered if you were still under 36K".

 

[tsobrado]

I have a 2001 LC with 66K miles on it with the same problem. I am sure that I have at least one cracked manifold.

I looked in the owner's manual to see what it said about exhaust manifold coverage. In the owner's manual, nothing is mentioned. I then looked in the Owner's Warranty information guide.

Page 6 Under the California Emission Control warranty, a long term-defect is under warranty for 84 months / 70,000 miles.

Page 22 of the same guide outlines the parts list: Long-term emission defect warranty. The fourth bullet point on the right-hand column lists exhaust manifold on Avalon, Camry, Camry Solara, Highlander, LAND CRUISER, and so forth. Just to confirm, the introduction on the page states "The parts listed here are covered for seven years or 70,000 miles from the vehicles in-service date, whichever occurs first".

Going back to page 7 of the same document to see exactly what is covered, the second bolded item states the following: "Repairs made at no charge - Repairs and adjustments covered by these warranties are made at no charge for parts and labor".

My reading of this at least for those residing in California is that exhaust manifolds are covered under the California Emission Control Warranty to 7 years / 70,000 miles. This looks to apply to California only. I will confirm with Toyota Customer Service tomorrow.

 

[marcus550]

I called the Toyota customer service number under 'Contact Toyota' on their Owner's web site. The number is 800-331-4331. I quickly got a real person on the phone that was very helpful and willing to answer my question. After a few minutes of checking, she came back with the 7 Year / 70k mile statement. This may just be in Massachusetts and Ca. for all I know.

My local dealer took back the pull-the-engine statement when I went to pick up my truck. He kept saying what a big job it is on these things, so I think the engine statement was his way of scaring me in to spending $2500. When I said I would do it myself, he corrected his statement.

So, on the advice of one other person on this board, I'm going to try this without removing the heads...maybe in late May. I'll document it as best I can.

Also, I heard Toyota fixed the problem. Originally, it was due to the pipes being stretched too thin where it welds to the flange. Not sure what is different now.

 

[2000UZJ]

I have had my drive side manifold replaced once, and now my passenger side is loose. So ill just deal with the ticking, its a landcruiser, not a ferrari. its alright if it doesnt sound perfect, it runs, drives, and has no side effects... so ive heard from the dealership. so ill save my 1100 bucks and invest in something else.

 

[jhl72]

Replaced my drivers side manifold yesterday. My local mechanic was only confortable doing it by the book, which is the 7.5 hour cylinder head way Toyota wants you to do it, so I took it over to another buddy of mine who does good work. No way I even considering taking it to the dealer.

I explained removing the tire and splash guard and going in that way and thats how we did it. We did have to remove the steering linkage but it was easy. Now the steering wheel is out of alignment but that's an easy fix.

Hardest part was just getting the manifold unbolted as the bolts were frozen and getting the heat shield back on in the cramped space. We actually had to cut and inch off the front of the heat shield to get it fit back on through the cramped space. We also had to drop the center section of the exhaust to get the manifold out and back on due to the cramped space on the drivers side. Other than that it was pretty strait forward.

Old manifold was cracked at the flange just like I expected. The new manifold had much larger welds at the flange so this is how Toyota improved the part.

Job took my guy about 4.5 hours and this was the first time he had ever seen and Land Cruiser.

Got the manifold and two gaskets from Cruiser Dan for $240 delivered. We had to buy three bolts at the local hardware shop as we broke three of the original bolts in the removal process and that was $7.

Paid my guy $400 for the work (although he would have taken less) so I got the whole thing done for about $650 which is half of what the dealer wanted.

 

[Birdhunter]

For what it's worth, I'm at about 190k miles with my 2000 and have been ticking for a few minutes every cold morning since about 75k. Has anyone here actually seen damage that was blamed on the cracked manifold not being repaired? I am assuming that after it heats up, the manifold expands and operates normally.

 

[Kernal]

(Old thread warning)
Anyone know which years had this problem, and which didn't? When did Toyota fix the problem?

 

[mookamatook]

For what it's worth, I'm at about 190k miles with my 2000 and have been ticking for a few minutes every cold morning since about 75k. Has anyone here actually seen damage that was blamed on the cracked manifold not being repaired? I am assuming that after it heats up, the manifold expands and operates normally.

I'm wondering the same thing... I have a 2001 with 233k miles on it and there is a super small clicking sound which could also be something to do with the fan/fanclutch? it is pretty consistently tapping when starting and I believe (haven't really tested) it goes away after the engine heats up a bit. But the real question is... does it really matter? If the repair is a 400-500$ job and it prevents other collateral damage, it makes sense to do but if it's just an annoying thing that goes away and doesn't cause damage, is there a real need to fix it?

 

[unplannedbbq]

I'm wondering the same thing... I have a 2001 with 233k miles on it and there is a super small clicking sound which could also be something to do with the fan/fanclutch? it is pretty consistently tapping when starting and I believe (haven't really tested) it goes away after the engine heats up a bit. But the real question is... does it really matter? If the repair is a 400-500$ job and it prevents other collateral damage, it makes sense to do but if it's just an annoying thing that goes away and doesn't cause damage, is there a real need to fix it?

Slow and steady to get the old passenger (right side) manifold out. Tire off, thru the wheel well method. The lip had broken off the front cylinder (pics attached) manifold, which explains my ticking when cold for the last few years. Replaced all the studs and bolts while I was in there. Lots of carbon build up; had already replaced the plug and coil on that cylinder, so hoping everything will be good from here. 2000 w/ 251k.

 

[UZJ100LC]

bringing up this thread from the ashes, but if I'm reading this correctly you guys are replacing these manifolds with new Toyota OEM manifolds because they have improved on the design? the DT headers are expensive. I have a 2000 LC 100.

 

[TILLOTSON]

I replaced both manifolds on my 2000. From reading everything I could on here about the job I don’t remember any improved oem design.

I did the passenger side first with oem. It seemed like a pretty rough piece. Then I did the drivers side with a doorman. That seemed even lower quality. The doorman was cheaper but the drivers side in particular is such a pain I should have done oem.

I also replaced the motor mounts in the hopes that it will help extend the life of the manifolds.

I’d wager that the common leaking valve cover gaskets barfing oil onto the manifolds while they are hot doesn’t help them last. Replaced those too.

 

[unplannedbbq]

bringing up this thread from the ashes, but if I'm reading this correctly you guys are replacing these manifolds with new Toyota OEM manifolds because they have improved on the design? the DT headers are expensive. I have a 2000 LC 100.

I thought about the DT for a bit before going "cheap" w/ my 2000. You need to commit to doing both sides at the same time for the DT. My driver's was quiet & solid, so I did not want to deal with all the extra time & effort required since the LC is my daily driver. I went with dorman, not OEM, based on the "meh" reviews of the OEM replacements and since local dealers did not have a passenger side in stock. The dorman kit was cleaner/better than I expected - the mating surface was well made, everything lined up, and the O2 bung was perfect. 4 months post-fix, all is good and I regret not doing the fix sooner - runs quiet as it should and no more fume/leaks.

 

[UZJ100LC]

I thought about the DT for a bit before going "cheap" w/ my 2000. You need to commit to doing both sides at the same time for the DT. My driver's was quiet & solid, so I did not want to deal with all the extra time & effort required since the LC is my daily driver. I went with dorman, not OEM, based on the "meh" reviews of the OEM replacements and since local dealers did not have a passenger side in stock. The dorman kit was cleaner/better than I expected - the mating surface was well made, everything lined up, and the O2 bung was perfect. 4 months post-fix, all is good and I regret not doing the fix sooner - runs quiet as it should and no more fume/leaks.

Yea the dorman sounds like a good compromise. From the person who first replied it sounds like the dorman headers are lower quality? First time I’m hearing about this

 

[unplannedbbq]

Yea the dorman sounds like a good compromise. From the person who first replied it sounds like the dorman headers are lower quality? First time I’m hearing about this

the dorman welds were not as pretty/clean as the OEM I took off, but they were solid. all the angles looked decent and everything lined up perfectly.

 

[TILLOTSON]

Yeah, so far so good on the doorman on my truck. They were just rougher than oem. Like not cleanly machined. But hey, it’s a manifold. It fit, it works, it came with what I needed for a good price. As long as it doesn’t fail sooner than an oem I’ll be happy.

 

[UZJ100LC]

Yeah, so far so good on the doorman on my truck. They were just rougher than oem. Like not cleanly machined. But hey, it’s a manifold. It fit, it works, it came with what I needed for a good price. As long as it doesn’t fail sooner than an oem I’ll be happy.

How many miles have you put on it so far?

 

[TILLOTSON]

How many miles have you put on it so far?

Maybe 2000 miles at the most.