Ticking noise in 2000 Cruiser (4 Viewers)

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If you do a little research you will find the Toyota manifolds are available from various dealers who sell online for under 200. Personally, I would talk to C'Dan. Mine were replaced under warranty otherwise I would have talked to a good independent wrench as this repair is beyond my ability.
 
Thanks for all of the information guys. When I originally got the quote for $1800 I talked to the service guy and stated that I had done all of my scheduled maintenances at the dealer as well letting him know that I had heard of a lot of other similar cases with the manifold. He said that he would talk to toyota and get back to me. When he got back to me he said that toyota will cover the entire cost of replacing the manifold. I was amazed I thought that I would have to at least pay for labor or something, but maybe they took into account that I was replacign the timing belt, water pump, spark plugs, as well as the general 90k service.
 
Yet another chink in the armor of the supposedly bulletproof Toyota.
 
mine has ticked sense I got it, its not bad, no codes, stays the same cold or warm, it doesn't bother me and I honestly don't know if its the manifold or not, I have listed with a hose in my ear and I cant really pin the noise to the manifolds.......so I am not fixing anything yet, its gotten no louder in 20K.
 
OK, lets say you have a cracked manifold, whats the downside of not fixing it? Is the LC going to quit running? Is it going to cost more if you delay the repair? Is the new part "better" then the old manifold? Wouldn't a good set of headers give you some extra HP? I know all I got is ??
 
Cracked manifold could cause excessive head temperatures which may shorten the life of the heads, cause them to crack, something along those lines.

JBA makes headers for the 4.7 but I haven't checked to see if they fit the LC/LX yet.

I think the ticking sound it the injectors. Have heard the same slight noise on the 3.4 also.
 
We're all going to have this exhaust manifold problem eventually. Anyone make any progress in finding headers for the LC?
 
I had my p-side manifold crack welded at a great shop for only 3 hours labor.... $225 and it's been fine for 1/2 a year.... even if I have to do this more than once I'm saving money.
 
Kahuna,

Downey in Santa Fe Springs makes headers for the Tundra 4.7, maybe they would be willing to talk to you about it...
 
Exhaust manifold leak noise will increase in volume when the engine is loaded. That's the sign.

On the other hand, valvetrain ticking usually DOESN'T change in volume when the engine is loaded / rpms increased, unless oil pressure effects are present (e.g. in hydraulic lifters). But shim adjuster type valvetrain noise is usually not significantly affected by oil pressure affects, per se.

My '99 LX has a very slight amount of valvetrain ticking. But it still runs smooth, so I'm not too concerned about it. (The concern being, of course, that valvetrain wear - such as valve seat wear - that reduces lash to zero or even negative will lead to burned valves - but slightly excessive lash doesn't really hurt anything...)

I noticed that changing to synthetic oil at recommended viscosity (5W-30) caused cold engine valvetrain noise to increase. I switched to 10W-30 synthetic and the cold ticking disappeared. (Synthetic has better cold flow properties than conventional oil.)

Keeping my fingers crossed about the valvetrain noise, because I really don't have time to pop the valvecovers and dink around with shims, at this stage of life. :)
 
Yes, could also be injectors.

Sometimes you can discern by using mechanics stethoscope.

But again, if it is not exhaust leak noise, I don't pay much attention to slight ticking noise - whether valve lash or injector noise - as long as the engine still runs nice & smooth.

Exhaust leak is a different story altogether.
 
Replacing the LH manifold

All,

I went for an inspection on my '00 LX and asked them to find out where the exhaust leak was. Told me my LH manifold was cracked. $1200 to repair...the FSM says you need to remove the head and manifold as 1 piece. Not for the faint at heart. Had 93K on it and the dealer was not interested in eating the cost/splitting it/etc... Maybe becuase I didn't buy the vehicle there?

After evaluating the situation, I was able to replace the LH manifold without removing the head. I had to use a pry bar to push the steering column out of the way about 1"...wire-tied it to the frame to hold it and it worked pretty well. The column is fairly flexible and no damage was done.

I've got some pics that I took on how to get the tools into the tight spots to remove each of the manifold nuts. It's a bit of a PITA and you need patience and the right tools.

I also was unable to properly torque 3 of the 8 bolts due to using a hand wrench. Left side is great now! However, the right side is more noticable now so I gotta do that one as well. Should be easier since the steering column is not in the way.

I can post the pics if anyone is interested?

Let me know?

Regards,

Larry
 
My 2000 with 88k on it was diagnosed today by the dealer with BOTH manifolds leaking. They quoted me $2500 and said they would have to pull the engine to do the job. I'm going to attempt this on my own, so wish me luck. Any advice or pictures is appreciated!

They said the manifold would not be covered by Toyota.

Mark
 
both manifolds

I got toyota to pick up both manifolds and all CV boots under warranty with 60k and 6 years old this past January.
 
Mr.T says no way

I just talked to Toyota customer service. The exhaust manifold is covered for 7 years or 70k miles. My truck is at 88k, so I'm SOL. Thanks, Toyota! :mad:
 
they do NOT have to pull the engine to do this. Don't ask me how I know :grinpimp:
 
You only need to pull the cylinder heads, but not really even that. IIRC, someone on this board recently did the left side by kind of bending the steering components out of the way. At least it's not as tight in there as in a 4runner.
 
I'd like to have a look at the cracked manifolds if you'd be willing to ship them to me after you replace them. I'm curious to see how they take to welding. I would pay for the shipping.

rich
 

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