Thoughts on undercarriage? (1 Viewer)

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Again my only real concern would be the KDSS valves. If you can turn them at all with a 5mm Hex wrench then you’re fine, just slather then with marine grease whenever you get the oil changed. If you can’t open them however it can be costly to fix. You definitely need to open them for any suspension work, not just adding a lift but for front strut replacement and other repairs, so make sure they’re working or the dealer replaces it

Aside from that most of the rust will come off with a wire brush and some effort. Paint what’s there once you’re done and apply a coating of fluid film every fall and I’d consider it ok
 
Again my only real concern would be the KDSS valves. If you can turn them at all with a 5mm Hex wrench then you’re fine, just slather then with marine grease whenever you get the oil changed. If you can’t open them however it can be costly to fix. You definitely need to open them for any suspension work, not just adding a lift but for front strut replacement and other repairs, so make sure they’re working or the dealer replaces it

Aside from that most of the rust will come off with a wire brush and some effort. Paint what’s there once you’re done and apply a coating of fluid film every fall and I’d consider it ok

The dealer is putting it on a lift in the morning and inspecting it for me including pictures/video. I asked my salesman to go ahead and spray some rust loosener like liquid wrench and let it sit over night. I explained how they need to be very careful and not strip the hex bolt. He said his master tech would look at it, and if it doesn't turn easy, they will continue to soak it with rust loosener. It was sold on 11/13, so it's just over 4 years of road use, and with only 18k miles, I am hoping the valves will open without too much trouble. Fingers crossed.

Thanks for the insight!
 
Very fixable. You can mitigate that. Anything you buy will look like that in a few years anyway
 
Run away!
 
Edit: Video added to initial post
 
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Rust doesn't look too bad. You live in upstate NY so even if you buy a clean truck and take really good care of it you're going to have some rust after a few years. If they can turn the KDSS valve I wouldn't let the rust stop me.
 
I would pass. Tow hooks look badly rusted and the kdss bar is the most rusted I've ever seen. All those little 10mm and 12mm fasteners are horrible to remove (easily snap) if they're rusted, which they all are.

I think that’s he had them check it out and see if it’s rusted that bad they’ll snap on the master mechanic what he’s doing is confirming then he can get in there and clean it up with neutralizer and wire brush and it up
 
Did someone say rust? This was a 2008 from Whitefish, MT, a supposed non-rustbelt state.

IMG_0168.JPG
 
Personally I hate rust and I make sure my vehicles have none on them but for an upstate New York LC this one looks real good and the rust is surface not a big problem definitely clean it up and keep it clean. A 2014 with mileage in the teens is a great fine especially for around $55,000
 
If the KDSS doesn't work, is that covered under the CPO warranty? I assume I could pull it into the garage, spend a day with a wire brush and go crazy underneath. I have read about this stuff called Corroseal that is a rust converter/primer. Then I could either paint the underneath with rustoleum or apply fluid film/Krown.

When you ask if "KDSS works"...what is meant is...**can the KDSS valves be loosened/turned freely.**
The KDSS system will "work" even if rusted in place, but dealing with suspension will be a big problem if they cannot be loosened.

Don't loosen them more than three full turns, by the way!
Just check to see that they are not rusted in place. If you can turn them AT ALL...they are OK. If not...major hassles can ensue.

Personal opinion:
It might be correctable as others have said, but at $55k, just thinkin you can probably do better.
 
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I got an 08 with similar "surface rust". Got it for cheap and had a body shop redo the undercarriage.

2008 Land Cruiser surface rust, before/after

If I had to redo this, I would probably be a bit more patient and find a cruiser in better shape. Working on a cruiser with rust is a PITA.
 
You can coat and neutralize what's visible. The problem is all the fasenters. Forever you'll be fighting frozen hardware. Not to mention KDSS.
 
You can coat and neutralize what's visible. The problem is all the fasenters. Forever you'll be fighting frozen hardware. Not to mention KDSS.
The new coating is not too bad to break loose tbh. It’s the rust on the threads that’s the biggest PITA
 
Here MT, like UT use salt on their roads. Not true? My preferable choices were CA, CO, AZ, NM, NV, TX.
 
We purchased a brand new/untitled 16’ LC in August and live in Columbus (OH). After reading threads on this site, I contacted several Toyota dealerships regarding advice on undercoating before the vehicle ventured into its first winter. All advised against and claimed the vehicle was treated appropriately direct from the factory & rust damage is covered under warranty. One service manager admitted it was a problem in earlier model years but should not be a problem on a 16’. Also, there were concerns raised regarding “locking in moisture” and potentially making matters worse.

Like many states around the country, Central Ohio is experiencing sub freezing temperatures and salt covered roads. The topic is definitely a concern and I’m not sure what to believe. We chose the LC based on overall value as relates to reliability, dependability, and resale values. We plan to keep for decade or so. Any additional information or feedback would be greatly appreciated!
 

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