Thoughts on "higher mileage" 200? (1 Viewer)

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I currently have a 99LC with 275K miles. I've had it for 3 years, I am the second owner, Texas truck and absolutely love it. It has cost me some $$$ though to get it where I have it, dreaded front diff issue, replaced master brake module and many other small things...but it runs like a top and is all up to date. I love the space, my kids enjoy the space and for traveling, I'm not sure there is anything better on the road today...except maybe the 200 series?

I'm considering getting a used 200 series, 08-10 with probably between 100K-130K miles for a daily driver back/forth and as a business vehicle. I don't want another money pit, but am considering taking the vehicle allowance and get a 200 series rather than the company vehicle. The allowance is decent and might get me an XLT Crewcab 2WD. After gas for the LX (based on the mileage I drive), $100 in maintenance...should leave me enough for that 08-10 LC. Afterwards, the truck will have some value to me and be an assett. Right now, I would get a basic company car/truck and while I would have no payment/maint/gas...I can't take it in the mountains/snow, etc.

Keep in mind, my wife and I both agree...we are keeping the 99LC!

Curious to hear everyone's thoughts...am I crazy? I've thought about keeping the allowance and driving my 99 around. I've always said if they offered an allowance, I'd take it and get an LC...well now the option is REAL.

Thoughts?
We have an 08 200 with 260k.... and are buying a 16 RR Autobiography with 75k.... have owned a few RRs... know what we are in for... but love both vehicles... and LC will remain my wife’s daily driver with RR our nice family weekend vehicle...
Our motto is we live once..... so enjoy life and quit overthinking everything as to what makes the most sense ! I know the RR will cost us more than the LC to own.... and quite honestly plan on keeping the RR and eventually replacing the 08 LC with a newer LC... not brand new.... just newer... with up to 100k miles.....
Again, we need to stop looking at everything like an accountant! Every vehicle costs money to own..... and most depreciate.... if you enjoy cars and trucks ( many do not ), buy something you enjoy, regardless of what that is, put fuel in it, maintain it well, and stop worrying if it gets 14 mpg or 15! It doesn’t matter! If the difference really matters, buy a Prius.....

I’ve owned over 150 vehicles in my life from a $350 56 Ford F100 pickup to a $200,000 Aston Martin Vanquish SS, and as a result, will be working the rest of my life.... but no regrets, because I’ve enjoyed life from day 1!!!!

Not saying repeat what I’ve done, just saying don’t overthink what car to buy.... buy a 200.... and enjoy it! I will always have a LC in my garage!
 
I have a 99 with 217K currently and a 2010 that just hit 200k. I do the proper PM and they both perform like new vehicles.
 
I have a 99 with 217K currently and a 2010 that just hit 200k. I do the proper PM and they both perform like new vehicles.
I would buy your 99 before I bought any used 100 (or 200 for that matter). You’ve literally replaced every part of the truck with OEM that it should be considered a brand new 1999!
 
So...... what’s wrong with buying a used 100 or 200?
Not a thing!! I daily drive an 03 TLC 100 with 230k miles and my wife drives an 05 LX470 with 113k miles.

my comment was meant as a compliment to @NHouston 99 TLC - if you’ve ever read his build thread you would be blown away by the meticulous maintenance he has performed on his rig.

I’ve never purchased a vehicle new in my life and don’t foresee myself doing so any time soon. That’s why I’m on my 3rd cruiser and 6th Toyota!
 
Not a thing!! I daily drive an 03 TLC 100 with 230k miles and my wife drives an 05 LX470 with 113k miles.

my comment was meant as a compliment to @NHouston 99 TLC - if you’ve ever read his build thread you would be blown away by the meticulous maintenance he has performed on his rig.

I’ve never purchased a vehicle new in my life and don’t foresee myself doing so any time soon. That’s why I’m on my 3rd cruiser and 6th Toyota!
Late reply, but have an update… Passed on getting a RR…. As much as we enjoyed owning some of them, the new ones lost some luster as they are everywhere… and after talking to a few sellers that were lucky enough to sell theirs, I no longer have interest in owning a newer one ( 2013 on ).

as for our 08 200, it’s now at 265k…..drives beautifully as a DD for my wife, but is in need of repair as it’s experiencing Christmas tree warning lights and limp mode a number of times each week, but my wife manages to get through it by disconnecting the battery when it does, which is mostly from sitting overnight or longer…..which results in no issues rest of day… and as mentioned… drives beautifully!

Took it to a Toyota dealership, they had it a week, and finally told us they THINK it needs a new air pump at around $3k…. but couldn’t guarantee it was the issue. An independent shop told us it appeared, based on codes and mileage, the transmission was the issue…..but again… no guarantee that was the issue.

car drives beautifully, so it isn’t leaving our ownership, but I will be happy when we can get the issue resolved…by a competent shop.

Getting codes from a scanner I just bought, and will share what I come up with. There has to be an owner or mechanic on forum that can make sense of the codes/issues.
Unfortunately, I have no trust in our local dealership… which is shared by just about everyone around here!
 
Late reply, but have an update… Passed on getting a RR…. As much as we enjoyed owning some of them, the new ones lost some luster as they are everywhere… and after talking to a few sellers that were lucky enough to sell theirs, I no longer have interest in owning a newer one ( 2013 on ).

as for our 08 200, it’s now at 265k…..drives beautifully as a DD for my wife, but is in need of repair as it’s experiencing Christmas tree warning lights and limp mode a number of times each week, but my wife manages to get through it by disconnecting the battery when it does, which is mostly from sitting overnight or longer…..which results in no issues rest of day… and as mentioned… drives beautifully!

Took it to a Toyota dealership, they had it a week, and finally told us they THINK it needs a new air pump at around $3k…. but couldn’t guarantee it was the issue. An independent shop told us it appeared, based on codes and mileage, the transmission was the issue…..but again… no guarantee that was the issue.

car drives beautifully, so it isn’t leaving our ownership, but I will be happy when we can get the issue resolved…by a competent shop.

Getting codes from a scanner I just bought, and will share what I come up with. There has to be an owner or mechanic on forum that can make sense of the codes/issues.
Unfortunately, I have no trust in our local dealership… which is shared by just about everyone around here!
If it is the air pump then you can look into the Hewitt bypass module that run close to $500.
 
If it is the air pump then you can look into the Hewitt bypass module that run close to $500.
What is air pump for? Last time we tried, I believe the transfer case would not go into 4Low…Could it be related to that issue?
Have worked around, restored and rebuilt many cars and trucks during my life, but also accept in many cases, pros need to get involved… and I’m no expert on the systems in the 200…so when they mentioned “ it might be the air pump” to my wife when she picked it up after a week at the dealership, I really didn’t pay much attention as I had no confidence in their ability by that point.. and we’ve been just dealing with it since , thinking in time, we will reach out to forum for thoughts.

Going to get codes, and will share, and look into a bypass module ……

thxs
 
Are you using a techstream or generic reader? Also have to tried other forums like tundra and sequoia? Codes are the key with solving issues like this.
 
2445 was code, air pump bank 2 stuck off.
This is a very common issue across Toyota engines post 2004 or so. Affects all the V8s and even V6s I think. It's a pump that runs at cold start (engine off for 7+ hours) to push extra air into the exhaust to help with emissions. It's what's making the loud vacuum cleaner sound when you have a cold start that only lasts about 30 seconds. After that it never runs again until another cold start. It takes two times of the system failing before the engine will start throwing codes/limp mode. There are 2-3 failure modes of the system that get you different versions of dash lights / limp mode. I have the bypass from another company installed (it was already on truck when I purchased) but I don't recommend it. It's a little cheaper but I've found that I still get the Christmas tree lights when it's warm outside.

Hewitt offers two kits, one that "replaces" the entire SAIS system and one that is a little quicker install and cheaper but requires some parts of SAIS to remain and be functioning. You can get more details from their page on the different error codes. But I think P2445 is one of the preferred. There are two main mechanical components to the system, valves on the exhaust manifold and the pumps themselves. The worst case is when one / both of the valves stop functioning.

P2445 - Pump Stuck OFF Bank 1
This code is normally caused by the secondary air injection pump not being able to create proper air pressure because the pump impeller is damaged or the air pump motor has been damaged and/or blown the air pump fuse. If the air pump motor has been damaged, it is common to also see a P0418 code that indicates this. If the air pump fuse has blown, this code will display but you may not see a P0418 code until the fuse is replaced. If you only see the P2445 code during a cold start, the Hewitt-Tech bypass kit can clear it.


You can also repair the system, there are a lot of cheap aftermarket parts for it now, not sure of their quality through. If you google Tundra SAIS bypass / repair, you'll get tons of hits and threads explaining fixes. A lot more hits with the Tundra search, just because there are a lot more of them on the road. There were some recalls on earlier models from 2008-2011 I think for the Tundra, but not the LC/LX. I think replacing the pumps is the easiest repair, so you may be in luck there if you want to just fix the system.

I personally have no issue with it not functioning properly, as it's something that only runs for 30 seconds on the first start of the day. I'm sure it means my truck runs a little dirtier for that 30 seconds than it would otherwise.
 
This is a very common issue across Toyota engines post 2004 or so. Affects all the V8s and even V6s I think. It's a pump that runs at cold start (engine off for 7+ hours) to push extra air into the exhaust to help with emissions. It's what's making the loud vacuum cleaner sound when you have a cold start that only lasts about 30 seconds. After that it never runs again until another cold start. It takes two times of the system failing before the engine will start throwing codes/limp mode. There are 2-3 failure modes of the system that get you different versions of dash lights / limp mode. I have the bypass from another company installed (it was already on truck when I purchased) but I don't recommend it. It's a little cheaper but I've found that I still get the Christmas tree lights when it's warm outside.

Hewitt offers two kits, one that "replaces" the entire SAIS system and one that is a little quicker install and cheaper but requires some parts of SAIS to remain and be functioning. You can get more details from their page on the different error codes. But I think P2445 is one of the preferred. There are two main mechanical components to the system, valves on the exhaust manifold and the pumps themselves. The worst case is when one / both of the valves stop functioning.




You can also repair the system, there are a lot of cheap aftermarket parts for it now, not sure of their quality through. If you google Tundra SAIS bypass / repair, you'll get tons of hits and threads explaining fixes. A lot more hits with the Tundra search, just because there are a lot more of them on the road. There were some recalls on earlier models from 2008-2011 I think for the Tundra, but not the LC/LX. I think replacing the pumps is the easiest repair, so you may be in luck there if you want to just fix the system.

I personally have no issue with it not functioning properly, as it's something that only runs for 30 seconds on the first start of the day. I'm sure it means my truck runs a little dirtier for that 30 seconds than it would otherwise.
I’m going for the Hewitt kit…. Just hope it fixes the issue as one independent shop said it was probably the transmission..which shifts/runs perfect unless in limp mode.

Also wondering if 260000 on transmission is nearing its end too???? Love truck, and wife loves it more…. So we really hate the thought of selling it.
 
I’m going for the Hewitt kit…. Just hope it fixes the issue as one independent shop said it was probably the transmission..which shifts/runs perfect unless in limp mode.

Also wondering if 260000 on transmission is nearing its end too???? Love truck, and wife loves it more…. So we really hate the thought of selling it.
hey @Craig Haworth I know we're taking OP's post off topic but check out this thread/post: Error Code P2447 Air Injection Pump Error... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/error-code-p2447-air-injection-pump-error.764867/page-3#post-13801343

I'm at 185k on the 2008 and have the air pumps sitting on the shelf, since the lights don't bother me so much and I don't need 4LO anytime soon - just rolling with it. I'll get around to the repair, eventually.
 

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