This friggin truck is falling apart!

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Supporting Vendor
Mar 27, 2003
Groveland MA
While parts are on the way to fix my rear driveshaft, bulbs in the center console to get the "D" light working again, Radio to replace the factory unit on the shelf, I got another problem. Had a Buzzing sound from my exhaust last night and checked it this morning. The heat shield on the front Y pipe is rotted off at one bolt. No problem just bend it a little to shut it up. Well took a look around and the hanger at the second cat is also rotted through and the system is quite rusted throughout.

1. Has anyone used the cats from DiscountConverters?

2. I'll have to cut out the O2 sensors, what are their chances of survival and how long might they last afterwards?

3. Is the Borla a clean install and a good choice or should I go OEM. Dan?

I should mention that I don't put much worth into how the truck sounds.
My D light is out too. So when there's no light, I know I'm in D. In fact, when I'm in R I almost freak out because there's a light on in a strange place.

[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=3911;start=0#msg28668 date=1059058095]
What other parts are there in a driveshaft?

The only thing left :( the slip yoke. Grabbed the shaft at the yoke dust cover and have both lateral and rotational play.
I looked in the FSM. THere is a sleeve yoke(slip). Dust cover and propeller shaft. If the sleeve yoke is worn, how do you tell if the propeller shaft is not worn too?
If you put a new sleeve yoke in the worn propeller shaft won't there be play? I have a bad yoke, where the j-joint goes. I was going to replace the yoke but with 225k mi, wouldn't I need to replace the propeller shaft too?
How much was the d-shaft for the rear?
I had a heck of a time getting the old Ujoints off and even worse time getting them in. I used 3 Ujoints in the rear yoke and had to grind the Cclip to get one it in.Grease doesn't come out one of the four caps when I grease it, Let me know how they go in.
Can't remember to be honest with you. Got it from C-Dan, he had one in stock which he sent to me.

Can't see a problem as I just unbolt the flanges, remove shaft and stick the whole thing back in with new hardware.
I think if I replace the whole shaft I will have the dealer install the ujoints. I don't think they should go in so tight?
My yoke has no slop. Maybe I could just get away with a new yoke and use the old propeller shaft?

I like my Borla, it wasn't cheap but I like it. It is stainless and the over-the-axle pipe is not "flattened" on the top. I did not like the exit as it was below the bumper but I fixed that with a floor jack and a hole saw. It is a cat-back which means you would still be addressing what to do about your front pipe. When I got mine, they did not list a 95-97 but I believe they do now. The muffler is smaller in diameter than the stocker and it is tucked up a bit further. I don't have a good answer for you on the front pipe and converters. The factory ones are just too damn expensive. If I sold you them at dead-cost it would still take your breath away. Are the flanges on the rear cat still good? And are both cats still functioning? If the answers are yes, you may be able to get a muffler shop to make a head pipe for you and weld a flange on the front end of the front cat. The hangers are no big deal. I've run out of ideas at the moment, I'll ponder it somemore. I just got back from a LONG one day trip to Phoenix to attend a meeting and have been up since 04:00 so I'm a bit fuzzy..........

Kurt, the OEM driveshaft is complete flange-to-flange. In addition, the slip yoke is not serviced by it's self.

Thanks for the reply Dan. I think I can get away with just the cat back for now. Both the cat hanger and muffler hanger are shot and the system looks to be hanging about 2" lower and bouncy as a bastard. I think I'm going with the Borla. I did read on the SOR archive you did some changes, what was the hole saw for?

Oh ya, checking out the exhaust again last night I noticed that the DS rear axle seal has let go and the rim and brakes are soaked in Diff fluid! Of couse I'm in Ct. some 230 miles from home.

Does anyone know what additional hangers to the Borla system I will need? I did order it today, and I imagine the muffler and rear tip hanger are there but not sure about the one at the rear cat. I'd like to have everything ordered and in when the system arrives.


Well, at least you have a care package with the seals waiting for you when you get home. :D
The Borla attaches to the stock mounts. They are rubber blocks with integeral studs sort of like tiny motor mounts.

The hole saw was for this:
That almost looks OEM Dan. I likes... 8)
OEM for a 65 Mustang GT maybe... ;)

Try doing that with a Slee rear bumper.
I have another friend with the Borla and a green 93. He basically did a 90 bend right behind the right rear tyre and routed the ghetto tip out the side. Sorry, I don't have a picture.
>> Do you think there is any issues cutting it off? <<

I guess it depends on how short and where you route the remaining exhaust pipe. I shortened the piece that comes out of the coffee can on the rear of the stock exhaust. The stock set up was a little too long and I slammed it between a rock and the Slee rear bumper, pinching the tailpipe shut.

The guy at the muffler shop (owner of an 'old-school' type of place... not a typical Midas) said the opening at the end needs to be angled down to avoid exhaust fumes building up and possibly leaking into the cabin. This was because the whole pipe was under the truck, not exiting under the bumper. He also wanted the pipe to be longer but I said no.

He told me I shouldn't be driving a truck like mine in rocks 'cause that will bend his pipes. :D

Back to cutting the tip off; I don't think it will cause any problem so long as you route the remaining piece safely. I'll bet the Borla tips are $$$$.


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