Thinking about dropping another F engine in 0:00

[Mikesta]

I hope you installed a new rear main seal in there.......
One of the things I do now is to raise the engine /trans combo over into the frame.....using a floor jack on the rear I level the combo then roll the Cruiser forward to position it in the chassis........seems to be easier than trying to move the combo and keep it level, and removing that mount is required.....

no rear seal done. didn't need it. You going up today?

 

[Mikesta]

What do you mean?

The truck has Saginaw PS. Had to move the setup over to the new engine. The oil filter Mod moves the filter to the top of the engine.

 

[Cammy]

Hey is that F motor looks familiar.

 

[Texican]

no rear seal done. didn't need it. You going up today?

OK, new rear seal is cheap insurance..........
Am I going up where today?

 

[Poser]

The oil filter Mod moves the filter to the top of the engine.

Oil filter mod?

 

[Mikesta]

Hey is that F motor looks familiar.

Yea its the one I got from you.

Need some assistance. I've gotten everything hooked up where it was before except for 1 wire. It is the blue wire in the pictures below. It hooks up to the solenoid? I have 11volts and it cranks like it has a dead battery again. I pushed it down a hill and it turns but sounds like its not getting any spark.

 

[Mikesta]

one last pick

 

[Cammy]

Can't really tell from the pics where its coming from and where it might go. What sort of connector is on the end? Where does it originate? Cranks real slow? Got good clutch release? Try taking the plugs out leave them out and cranking it with some of that WD40 in the cylinders. After a year of sitting you might have some dry cylinder walls. Did you check for spark at the plug wires? Phillips head screw stick in the wire and hold close to ground should see spark. Points clean? Timing set #1 TDC and rotor set to #1 wire? Start with the timing and work through the basics.

 

[Mikesta]

The blue wire went to the electronic ignition inside the distributer. This one doesn't have points.

- Determined that the gas pump is working. Getting gas to carb.
- Determined that distributer from solenoid is getting spark, will look at spark on plugs now
- Found a few more loose wires and seated them.

The reason for the slow cranking was a low battery. I noticed it would keep going down and at 10 amps I put some jumpers on it and its cranking good now... just not fireing.

I found a cable that I have yet to attach. Can anyone help me identify where this goes. Looks like a ground?

Thanks

 

[Mikesta]

Last night John came over with his timing light. We almost gave up but on the last try we figured out why the engine would not start.

Low spark from solenoid fixed
Then found that the distributer was 180 flopped. Fixed that
Then the engine started right up, burning some oil that spilled on the engine.

This morning I went out and started it up. Just checking for issue. There are a few hoses that need to be tightened up and the exhaust needs to be bolted back up to the frame... but besides that its almost ready for a trip to the woods.

Cammy, the engine ran for 5 minutes and ran great! right around 60 on oil pressure

 

[Cammy]

Awesome! I've been wondering if you got that thing running.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Anyone know how long it takes to swap them out. I am taking my 69' engine out and replacing with the 71' engine.

So the answer is:
22 days from removal to road;p

 

[joka]

I had a camping trip scheduled last minute. Started the engine sway of a 2f on saturday, finished tuesday night. Suggest to make sure you label all nuts and bolts and parts. Really helps. Also, if there's any odd sequence, good idea to take notes. The digital camera helps too. i had one of my boys label for me while I tore into it.

helpful hint. When bolting up the bell housing to the tranny, tough with the bolts, use extra long threaded to pull them together first at two opposite ends and then you can connect the final bolts. Much easier.

helpful hint 2- the crank pulley seal is a real pain and will leak in time. Now is a good time to replace this but sometimes this doesn't cure the problem. The shaft wears and you cn go down to napa and get a thing-of-a jig that shims the shaft. The leak oftentimes is not from the seal itself but the spacer due to wear.

BTW, while doing the undercarriage work, I would fall asleep under the fj. Also, at 1am tools make a lot of noise, especially when you drop them, I had a cop come by thinking I must be on ice or something to be working that late of the fj.

Good luck.

John
from Maui
73 fj40
76 engine
78 drivetrain
all the goodies

 

[Mikesta]

So the answer is:
22 days from removal to road;p

2 days to get it out and in. 20 days to get the timing right.

 

[Mikesta]

2 days to get it out and in. 20 days to get the timing right.

Still trying to get the timing right, then will adjust the valves.

 

[eetdirt47]

i'm putting my 71 pig engine in my 69 40

 

[Mikesta]

Got the timing right, also set the valves after warming up the rig. Everything sounds good till you hit 10mph then it sounds like a rod rapping the side wall. Initially I thought it was the valves, but they are perfect and weren't far off before I Started.

Kinda bummed as I got allot of time and money into this engine.

 

[Poser]

Um...


Been here?

 

[Mikesta]

Um...


Been here?

Oh, yea... I'm a good thread Hijacker :whoops: