There's a New BJ70 in My Garage!
- Thread starter HoffLarr
- Start date
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Bambino840
Jive Turkey
So approx 1500 lbs give or take
- Thread starter
- #63
Surgery!
Hopefully I get the drivers side done this weekend.
Hopefully I get the drivers side done this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #65
We'll have to wait and see to know if the outcome is really "good". I've already screwed up by not quite getting the body line lined up quite right. Live and learn.
So I think I've decided that the best path forward is to use a backer bar behind the seam 1/8" X 1 1/2" or so. Hopefully that will keep the seam straight and make it easier to weld up the gap that I am going to have. To me it seems like a good plan since I can't access the backside to grind out the weld anyway so this will keep the inside neat and it will possibly give me a place to anchor things if I decide to use the space for storage, accessories, electrical components, etc.
Any concerns with using a backer?
So I think I've decided that the best path forward is to use a backer bar behind the seam 1/8" X 1 1/2" or so. Hopefully that will keep the seam straight and make it easier to weld up the gap that I am going to have. To me it seems like a good plan since I can't access the backside to grind out the weld anyway so this will keep the inside neat and it will possibly give me a place to anchor things if I decide to use the space for storage, accessories, electrical components, etc.
Any concerns with using a backer?
arnott1t
SILVER Star
Backers aren't a terrible idea but they aren't good either. They leave you with 2 pieces of metal together so that moisture can get trapped.
That being said it can make your welding much easier. I'd go one step further and use a angle iron piece to help hold the panel arrow straight and provide rigidity
That being said it can make your welding much easier. I'd go one step further and use a angle iron piece to help hold the panel arrow straight and provide rigidity
- Thread starter
- #67
Thought about angle iron as well. Just wasn't sure I wanted it protruding on the inside.
As far as moisture goes, really shouldn't be any moisture anymore once I get it all welded up as it will all be internal to the rig and pretty high up. Can't really see any moisture getting in there besides regular humidity.
As far as moisture goes, really shouldn't be any moisture anymore once I get it all welded up as it will all be internal to the rig and pretty high up. Can't really see any moisture getting in there besides regular humidity.
- Thread starter
- #69
It is going well so far. I have the major work done on the Left side quarter. I picked that one first because the Right side has the gas door that I will have to cut out for so I wanted the first side the be the easiest. I forgot though that this side had some previous body damage so I worked it in differently than I will the other side because the rear corner was full of bondo.
This is the gap that I had to fill because I cut the panel wrong. You can see the backer I used. It's 1 1/4" by 1/8" and it worked really well to keep the panel straight.
This is the backer from the inside. It'll be hidden behind the panel, but it looks nice and neat.
Welded.
Ground down. You can see at the back I actually laid the panel over the corner because the corner was bashed in enough to do it. I will have to mold the corner with bondo.
That's the easy part.
This is the gap that I had to fill because I cut the panel wrong. You can see the backer I used. It's 1 1/4" by 1/8" and it worked really well to keep the panel straight.
This is the backer from the inside. It'll be hidden behind the panel, but it looks nice and neat.
Welded.
Ground down. You can see at the back I actually laid the panel over the corner because the corner was bashed in enough to do it. I will have to mold the corner with bondo.
That's the easy part.
- Thread starter
- #70
A couple of issues I've found with my panels.
When I aligned the major body line at the top I found that the front of the panel was too long, like an inch. So I had to cut it down and re-weld it together again. Not too big of an issue.
The other issue is probably going to be a bit harder to deal with.
At the back of the quarter there is a small angle that follows the angle of the tail lights and that angle is not presses into the panel.
I didn't realize there was a line there when I put the panel on. I just thought it cured around and I was going to cut and hammer it into shape after the panel was welded in. Now I'm not sure if I should care about that line or not.
To be honest about the panels, I know it would be more work to make them, but I would pay more for panels that wrapped all the way around the back to the taillights. They would be so easy to install because all the hard work would be done and any welding at the back would be hidden behind the lights.
When I aligned the major body line at the top I found that the front of the panel was too long, like an inch. So I had to cut it down and re-weld it together again. Not too big of an issue.
The other issue is probably going to be a bit harder to deal with.
At the back of the quarter there is a small angle that follows the angle of the tail lights and that angle is not presses into the panel.
I didn't realize there was a line there when I put the panel on. I just thought it cured around and I was going to cut and hammer it into shape after the panel was welded in. Now I'm not sure if I should care about that line or not.
To be honest about the panels, I know it would be more work to make them, but I would pay more for panels that wrapped all the way around the back to the taillights. They would be so easy to install because all the hard work would be done and any welding at the back would be hidden behind the lights.
- Thread starter
- #71
And then there is still this left to fix. Not sure how I'm going to make a panel for it???
arnott1t
SILVER Star
great work man looks really good. Those other patches will likely need to be made by hand. I'd spend some time beating up some metal and get it as close as you can. Sometime making it from a few pieces is easier. The inner well doesn't have to be pretty anyway,
Nice work Larry. It's hammer and dolly time! Don't worry about that line on the quarter...it is no longer an original truck...no body but you will notice. Those other pieces will have to be hand beaten. Get them as close as possible BEFORE you cut anything, make sure they are big enought to get rid of all the rust issues or it's an excersise in futility. As for the flatbar backer... I'm with Tyler on that one, I'd seam seal or tar the crap out of that as condensation will for sure get in there and rust...
Keep at it bud, can't wait to see it done!
Keep at it bud, can't wait to see it done!
Ratpuke
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #77
I think it's about time for an update!
After a lot of time and worry about the quality of the bodywork, I finally got it done. It took me forever because I kept on putting on body filler, sanding, thinking it was not quite right, putting on more body filler, sanding, thinking it was not quite right... Thank God the wheeling trip came up or I would have still been working on it!
I used these pieces off of a Honda to fill in the lower doors. I thought they would be easier to use as they were already close to the desired shape, but I', not sure that they were. I ended up cutting them down quite a bit and I think I filled in the shape more with weld than those pieces.
The repair is not too pretty after welding it in, but after filler they look acceptable.
My solution to the bottom under the lights was to lightly score the panel where the bend was going to be and then beat the panel into submission. There was enough metal to go all the way around the curve on the back, but not all the way, so another filler piece had to be added.
After a lot of time and worry about the quality of the bodywork, I finally got it done. It took me forever because I kept on putting on body filler, sanding, thinking it was not quite right, putting on more body filler, sanding, thinking it was not quite right... Thank God the wheeling trip came up or I would have still been working on it!
I used these pieces off of a Honda to fill in the lower doors. I thought they would be easier to use as they were already close to the desired shape, but I', not sure that they were. I ended up cutting them down quite a bit and I think I filled in the shape more with weld than those pieces.
The repair is not too pretty after welding it in, but after filler they look acceptable.
My solution to the bottom under the lights was to lightly score the panel where the bend was going to be and then beat the panel into submission. There was enough metal to go all the way around the curve on the back, but not all the way, so another filler piece had to be added.
- Thread starter
- #78
All in all I'm satisfied with the results. I bought it to be a bush truck so I don't want/need it to be too nice that I feel guilty scratching or denting it. When I bought my paint, I did not get the store to do any type of matching to the existing "fade" so you can see how the new quarters are darker than the existing paint. Oh well, I guess I will have to keep painting until it is all the same color.
There are still rust issues, but I have fixed the major problem by replacing these panels. I acknowledge that rust will seep back through my repairs, but hopefully it will take another 30 or more years before it gets as bad as it was. The rest of the rust at this point is mostly surface and I will work on that as I go to keep those areas from developing holes.
Here is a quick pic of the finished product.
There are still rust issues, but I have fixed the major problem by replacing these panels. I acknowledge that rust will seep back through my repairs, but hopefully it will take another 30 or more years before it gets as bad as it was. The rest of the rust at this point is mostly surface and I will work on that as I go to keep those areas from developing holes.
Here is a quick pic of the finished product.
Bambino840
Jive Turkey
Looks good Larry
- Thread starter
- #80
The other thing I have been doing is working on some new interior panels. Again, that has been a long process trying to find the best way to do it. I had the back door panels done a long time ago and the front door panels made to a point, but was stalled at how to manage the window crank.
What I wanted to do was make new panels, but have the fasteners hidden like then original. I have seen other people make new panels, but they used a screw of some sort through the panel to hold it in place. I don't disagree with that method, but if you use the factory mounting holes for the panels, I don't think it looks that good because the holes are placed for functionality, not aesthetics.
So, I made my new panels out of the thinnest plywood I could find, used the existing mounting pins and then laminated (Formica, Arborite, etc.) the finished side.
Here is the finished product.
I installed some speakers where the rear seatbelts used to be and they fit perfectly in the space, but I have some larger speakers I am debating putting them somewhere in side panels and moving these to the front doors, so my side panels are in limbo for a while.
What I wanted to do was make new panels, but have the fasteners hidden like then original. I have seen other people make new panels, but they used a screw of some sort through the panel to hold it in place. I don't disagree with that method, but if you use the factory mounting holes for the panels, I don't think it looks that good because the holes are placed for functionality, not aesthetics.
So, I made my new panels out of the thinnest plywood I could find, used the existing mounting pins and then laminated (Formica, Arborite, etc.) the finished side.
Here is the finished product.
I installed some speakers where the rear seatbelts used to be and they fit perfectly in the space, but I have some larger speakers I am debating putting them somewhere in side panels and moving these to the front doors, so my side panels are in limbo for a while.