There's a New BJ70 in My Garage!
- Thread starter HoffLarr
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- Thread starter
- #122
Yeah man, no worries. We can make nice set of drawers for ya.
I need to update my slow progress on the kitchen. It is mostly done now but the drive belt on my saw broke so I'm waiting for a replacement so I can continue.
I need to update my slow progress on the kitchen. It is mostly done now but the drive belt on my saw broke so I'm waiting for a replacement so I can continue.
- Thread starter
- #123
And a little update as promised. Been slowly working away at this. Got the main part of the kitchen done. I was originally going to build the legs into the bottom of the kitchen but fitting legs and a locking mechanism into a 3/4 thick space was tricky so I thought about those cheap CT folding sawhorses and decided to use one of those. The high end one with adjustable length legs. Hopefully it works out.
I have two options for setup. This first one I will call the "Kitchen" setup. I wanted a high back so that it would be functional. With this setup, the back does not actually fit in the drawer, but is 26" wide and goes on top of the bed. I am planning on turning the back into a peg board as well. The shelf on top is 12 1/2" wide.
And this second one I will call the "Bar" setup because it is the perfect height to serve drinks! For this one the back is actually what was the top shelf in the "Kitchen" layout. This piece fits neatly into the drawer. The top shelf you see here is just for demonstration purposes that's why it is so long, but it will be about that depth (5 1/2") and fits into the space where the back is in the pic.
On the right will be the second part of the counter that will be hinged to this part and double the counter space.
I'm going to laminate the top of the counters and then it's just a bit of clear coat to finish.
I have two options for setup. This first one I will call the "Kitchen" setup. I wanted a high back so that it would be functional. With this setup, the back does not actually fit in the drawer, but is 26" wide and goes on top of the bed. I am planning on turning the back into a peg board as well. The shelf on top is 12 1/2" wide.
And this second one I will call the "Bar" setup because it is the perfect height to serve drinks! For this one the back is actually what was the top shelf in the "Kitchen" layout. This piece fits neatly into the drawer. The top shelf you see here is just for demonstration purposes that's why it is so long, but it will be about that depth (5 1/2") and fits into the space where the back is in the pic.
On the right will be the second part of the counter that will be hinged to this part and double the counter space.
I'm going to laminate the top of the counters and then it's just a bit of clear coat to finish.
- Thread starter
- #125
Resurrection! Holy crap! I can't believe it's been a year and a half since I've posted/worked on Scrappy!
I guess I will update the drawer build first. The passenger side of the drawers are all but done. I just need handles for the kitchen drawers but not sure what to use because they have to be flush. I have a couple of options but not in a hurry to finish.
Here is basically the finished product.
This is the bed
Just put an old camper cushion on there to see what it is like. I actually just bought an air mattress from Canadian Tire for this. It is super small so it can be carried at all times. And it's actually quite comfortable
The tool drawer.
So after all of this work I realized that this is not the right design for me.
This design is very limiting because I'm trying to get a kitchen and toll storage in the same space. The tool drawer is not high enough for what I want and the kitchen legs are not as robust as I would like because of the space limitation.
I realized as I was finishing up that I don't need to carry a kitchen with me every day and that I could use that space more effectively if the kitchen was something that was added when needed. What I envision for the next iteration is to have one drawer under the bed, with the bed perhaps a bit lower. I have a new seat, a REAL passenger seat from Toyota Matrix, that I am going to fit in and that will determine the new height. This will be the tool drawer and should be able to hold all of the tools and emergency equipment that should be in the vehicle at all times.
In the space behind the driver would be the kitchen. It would be a box that is just as high as the bed/tool drawer and would slide in when necessary. It would also increase the sleeping space as well (foot space would have to be shared!) This kitchen could then be much bigger and more robust because there would be more space to work with.
I'm in no rush to make a new system as I do have a Chinook I am also supposed to be working on, but if anyone is interested in this setup, I would be willing to let it go.
I guess I will update the drawer build first. The passenger side of the drawers are all but done. I just need handles for the kitchen drawers but not sure what to use because they have to be flush. I have a couple of options but not in a hurry to finish.
Here is basically the finished product.
This is the bed
Just put an old camper cushion on there to see what it is like. I actually just bought an air mattress from Canadian Tire for this. It is super small so it can be carried at all times. And it's actually quite comfortable
The tool drawer.
So after all of this work I realized that this is not the right design for me.
This design is very limiting because I'm trying to get a kitchen and toll storage in the same space. The tool drawer is not high enough for what I want and the kitchen legs are not as robust as I would like because of the space limitation.
I realized as I was finishing up that I don't need to carry a kitchen with me every day and that I could use that space more effectively if the kitchen was something that was added when needed. What I envision for the next iteration is to have one drawer under the bed, with the bed perhaps a bit lower. I have a new seat, a REAL passenger seat from Toyota Matrix, that I am going to fit in and that will determine the new height. This will be the tool drawer and should be able to hold all of the tools and emergency equipment that should be in the vehicle at all times.
In the space behind the driver would be the kitchen. It would be a box that is just as high as the bed/tool drawer and would slide in when necessary. It would also increase the sleeping space as well (foot space would have to be shared!) This kitchen could then be much bigger and more robust because there would be more space to work with.
I'm in no rush to make a new system as I do have a Chinook I am also supposed to be working on, but if anyone is interested in this setup, I would be willing to let it go.
- Thread starter
- #126
So this is the big project before this years winter event. Install a winch on scrappy.
I bought this winch (and 400 pound bumper!) off of Kijiji for $150. It was located in Ponoka so when I first saw it I kinda shrugged it off as a cheap old winch too far away to bother, but there was a picture of the manufacture tag so I decided to look it up. This is a Mercury winch and there is not much info out there. The best source of information is this website documenting a similar Mercury winch. Once I found out that this winch has a backup hand crank I wanted it. I know, I know, I would have been better off buying a new winch or getting an 8274, but I have a really big soft spot for the old and odd and unusual and this fit the bill. Mercury winches were also made by a Canadian company so that's also pretty cool! Go Canada!
My model is apparently an M8. I'm guessing the M8 stands for 8000 pounds, but this thing is built like a tank so I bet it will pull more than that (someday).
This is the backup hand crank and motor. In case it is not obvious, the top portion is the manual crank while the bottom is the electric motor. The manual crank pretty much uses the same handle as any engine crank handle. I have a bunch of jack crank handles from Mazdas that I think will fit.
These are the gears that connect the motor to the winch. In the website above, that winch was chain driven but this one is obviously not. There is no mention on model number for the other one so I am not sure if it is a different model number from this one or not. Another obvious difference between the two is that on the other one the motor sits above the winch, but on mine, the motor is to the right of the winch. It all looks very homemade so I am not sure if the gears in mine are original or if they were added by a PO.
Now for the bad news. After freeing the winch from the anchor of a bumper it was on, I found that it all worked smoothly except for the motor which is severely seized up with rust!
The photo above also shows the crack in the housing. I'm not sure if the crack let the water in or if the crack is the result of water getting in and then freezing. Like I said, I'm a sucker for these kinds of things so I looked up places that rebuild starters and I will see if and how much it will be to repair. My Dad, an old retired welder, says the crack can be fixed. Everything else on the winch seems to work fine so I think that it will be worth it to put a couple hundred (fingers crossed) bucks into this.
I did a quick mock up on Scrappy and I think it will fit with some custom attachments.
Stay tuned, more to come.
I bought this winch (and 400 pound bumper!) off of Kijiji for $150. It was located in Ponoka so when I first saw it I kinda shrugged it off as a cheap old winch too far away to bother, but there was a picture of the manufacture tag so I decided to look it up. This is a Mercury winch and there is not much info out there. The best source of information is this website documenting a similar Mercury winch. Once I found out that this winch has a backup hand crank I wanted it. I know, I know, I would have been better off buying a new winch or getting an 8274, but I have a really big soft spot for the old and odd and unusual and this fit the bill. Mercury winches were also made by a Canadian company so that's also pretty cool! Go Canada!
My model is apparently an M8. I'm guessing the M8 stands for 8000 pounds, but this thing is built like a tank so I bet it will pull more than that (someday).
This is the backup hand crank and motor. In case it is not obvious, the top portion is the manual crank while the bottom is the electric motor. The manual crank pretty much uses the same handle as any engine crank handle. I have a bunch of jack crank handles from Mazdas that I think will fit.
These are the gears that connect the motor to the winch. In the website above, that winch was chain driven but this one is obviously not. There is no mention on model number for the other one so I am not sure if it is a different model number from this one or not. Another obvious difference between the two is that on the other one the motor sits above the winch, but on mine, the motor is to the right of the winch. It all looks very homemade so I am not sure if the gears in mine are original or if they were added by a PO.
Now for the bad news. After freeing the winch from the anchor of a bumper it was on, I found that it all worked smoothly except for the motor which is severely seized up with rust!
The photo above also shows the crack in the housing. I'm not sure if the crack let the water in or if the crack is the result of water getting in and then freezing. Like I said, I'm a sucker for these kinds of things so I looked up places that rebuild starters and I will see if and how much it will be to repair. My Dad, an old retired welder, says the crack can be fixed. Everything else on the winch seems to work fine so I think that it will be worth it to put a couple hundred (fingers crossed) bucks into this.
I did a quick mock up on Scrappy and I think it will fit with some custom attachments.
Stay tuned, more to come.
- Thread starter
- #127
So, I think I may have gotten lucky...maybe. After searching and searching to see if I could find out what this motor was I found a diagram of a motor that looks like mine and it turns out that this motor is a military aircraft starter motor! Here's the link.
I had already decided to go to a starter shop to see if they could repair the motor, but once I found out that it was an aircraft starter I looked to see if there was a shop that repaired aircraft starters and there was one in Edmonton near where the other shop was so I thought I would go there first and see what I could find out before I went to the regular starter shop. The shop I went to is Flyrite Accessory Overhauls. The Yelp description is "Repair and overhaul of aircraft starter-generators for helicopters and light turbine aircraft, world-wide. Approved Maintenance Organization."
I didn't have high hopes, but I thought that they might at least know something about the starter. Peter is the owner and it appears to be kind of a one man show. As soon as I put the starter on the counter he knew what it was. He had never seen one before, but he knew what it was! We started talking about it and how it was seized up and how I might go about taking apart and as we did he was as curious as I and he decided we could take off one of the covers and then he decided we could see if we could get the armature out and before you know it we were in the back figuring out how to take it apart and actually taking it apart! I was only hoping to drop it off, but we disassembled the motor while I was there! Hats off to Peter, great guy.
The pic below is the starter on his bench during the disassembly. I hate to give engineers too much credit (kidding!) but this thing is well engineered. I was expecting the whole of the innards to be rusted away, but there is a shield on the inside (you can see it in the pic) that separates the internal gears from the armature. Behind that cover, the armature was completely rusted. Peter felt that it still may be cleaned up and work, but then he buffed it up a bit and found a part number and told me there was a website that he could look up the number on. I didn't have high hopes. Well, guess what? There are armatures still out there! Good ole Army surplus! He has a request in now to see what they have and get a price. As an added bonus he says that these surplus parts are usually pretty cheap 'cause there aren't too many people who want them and the people who do are museums that are restoring vintage planes and don't have a lot of money to spend.
He says I may even be able to find a complete starter. We checked the part number on the casing but nothing came up, some other part numbers did have hits and he gave me the number of one of the companies and said that if I called them they may be able to source more parts.
It's a weird world! I really hope I can get a new armature. Fingers crossed.
Again, kudos to Peter and Flyrite Accessory Overhauls!
I had already decided to go to a starter shop to see if they could repair the motor, but once I found out that it was an aircraft starter I looked to see if there was a shop that repaired aircraft starters and there was one in Edmonton near where the other shop was so I thought I would go there first and see what I could find out before I went to the regular starter shop. The shop I went to is Flyrite Accessory Overhauls. The Yelp description is "Repair and overhaul of aircraft starter-generators for helicopters and light turbine aircraft, world-wide. Approved Maintenance Organization."
I didn't have high hopes, but I thought that they might at least know something about the starter. Peter is the owner and it appears to be kind of a one man show. As soon as I put the starter on the counter he knew what it was. He had never seen one before, but he knew what it was! We started talking about it and how it was seized up and how I might go about taking apart and as we did he was as curious as I and he decided we could take off one of the covers and then he decided we could see if we could get the armature out and before you know it we were in the back figuring out how to take it apart and actually taking it apart! I was only hoping to drop it off, but we disassembled the motor while I was there! Hats off to Peter, great guy.
The pic below is the starter on his bench during the disassembly. I hate to give engineers too much credit (kidding!) but this thing is well engineered. I was expecting the whole of the innards to be rusted away, but there is a shield on the inside (you can see it in the pic) that separates the internal gears from the armature. Behind that cover, the armature was completely rusted. Peter felt that it still may be cleaned up and work, but then he buffed it up a bit and found a part number and told me there was a website that he could look up the number on. I didn't have high hopes. Well, guess what? There are armatures still out there! Good ole Army surplus! He has a request in now to see what they have and get a price. As an added bonus he says that these surplus parts are usually pretty cheap 'cause there aren't too many people who want them and the people who do are museums that are restoring vintage planes and don't have a lot of money to spend.
He says I may even be able to find a complete starter. We checked the part number on the casing but nothing came up, some other part numbers did have hits and he gave me the number of one of the companies and said that if I called them they may be able to source more parts.
It's a weird world! I really hope I can get a new armature. Fingers crossed.
Again, kudos to Peter and Flyrite Accessory Overhauls!
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- Thread starter
- #128
Well, I guess seats are the thing to work on this week so here's mine.
I got a seat from a Toyota Matrix a while ago. This seat is an actual passenger seat that folds flat so it will be more comfortable for any passengers that I have.
The floor on the 70 makes it a real pain to fit a new seat so like before, the firs thing is to see if the seat will fit with the suspension base because that makes it easier to modify the seats attachment points. I found that I could use the suspension base as long as I tucked it up under the new seat as much as possible, the only issue seemed to be that it would hit the support on the floor.
I decided to go ahead and do it up and see what would happen with that support. It is actually quite easy to make the modifications for this seat. Cut off the old mounts and then a piece of 1 1/4 angle iron across the front and two smaller pieces at the back because the suspension base won't allow a full piece there. I did it all up and found that the seat track did hit that piece on the floor of the 70. It was late and I debated to wait or just cut it out. I decided to go for it and cut it out. The seat fits pretty good, but I think I could have (or still could) offset the seat on the suspension base because there is quite a bit of room between the door and the seat, more than what is on the driver's side.
I don't know, what do you guys think? Do you think I weakened the structure of the floor by notching it out.
I got a seat from a Toyota Matrix a while ago. This seat is an actual passenger seat that folds flat so it will be more comfortable for any passengers that I have.
The floor on the 70 makes it a real pain to fit a new seat so like before, the firs thing is to see if the seat will fit with the suspension base because that makes it easier to modify the seats attachment points. I found that I could use the suspension base as long as I tucked it up under the new seat as much as possible, the only issue seemed to be that it would hit the support on the floor.
I decided to go ahead and do it up and see what would happen with that support. It is actually quite easy to make the modifications for this seat. Cut off the old mounts and then a piece of 1 1/4 angle iron across the front and two smaller pieces at the back because the suspension base won't allow a full piece there. I did it all up and found that the seat track did hit that piece on the floor of the 70. It was late and I debated to wait or just cut it out. I decided to go for it and cut it out. The seat fits pretty good, but I think I could have (or still could) offset the seat on the suspension base because there is quite a bit of room between the door and the seat, more than what is on the driver's side.
I don't know, what do you guys think? Do you think I weakened the structure of the floor by notching it out.
- Thread starter
- #129
The seat looks good and is much more comfortable than even the stock seats. I may try to find a drivers side seat and replace that side as well.
The height when folded is slightly higher than the box I built, but I can deal with that.
The height when folded is slightly higher than the box I built, but I can deal with that.
Nice. What year Matrix?
- Thread starter
- #132
I usually document these things, but I don't know what year it is from. When I was looking, there were two to choose from in the scrap yard so I'm guessing they came in many years. I got the idea from a guy trying to sell one on Kijiji Edmonton for $450 ... CRAZY! The ad is still up. According to his ad, it fits a 2009 to 2010, but I don't think the car was that new that I got mine from.
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- Thread starter
- #133
I can fully get onboard with that statement. I too was not and still am not sure if this will end up on Scrappy, but it's a good little project to do after work. It does seem to fit well in the opening. I think I'll get it running and maybe build a mount and put it on. Also need to make a control box for it. Like I said, it's a good time waster while I'm in Fort Mac. And I'm also too curious for my own good.
So to continue the story, I got a reply back on the request and the armature is $200. I called the place that had it to see if they perhaps had a housing or better yet, a sub-assembly of the motor section as all of the gearing I have is good. He didn't know what the starter was for, but again "knew a guy" so he is going to check with him and get back to me.