the rust down under (1 Viewer)

[silvercrusher]

Right so my cruiser is in nice shape and i can see that the rust is gonna start.

What does everyone else do to prevent rust up under besides washing frequently.
Do you oil spray, diesel spray, what is the best undercoat bearing in mind I don't want to piss off the tree huggers too much

 

[colby1979]

Keep your vehiecl clean-dry and piss on what the tree huggers think!

Colby

 

[tlcruiserman]

If you can see that the rust is going to start, than is probably already has. If that is the case no way to stop it without getting rid of it.

Michael

 

[aussie75series]

Rust prevention

I've had the same HJ75 since 1988,no garage 1klm (.6m) from the sea and it had a bit of rust in the gutters from roof racks when I bought it at 8mths old.The point is preventative maintance.We get light dew and I live 60m from Sydney Aus so theres pollution in all those little beads of water.Hose them of before your first cuppa in the morning.Fish oil inside and out.I use odorless spray cans.Just bought an air compressor so I'll use that from now on.Get under and look hard for rust and possible rust sites eg weep holes at door bottom.Stop any rust now and get under regulary(when you change oil).I used rust converter on the gutters and its still the same after 17yrs. KEEP IT CLEAN

 

[roscoFJ73]

I use Kittens car shampoo,it contains anti rusting oils and with repeated use it will slow rust almost to a halt.
When Ive been in salty areas I park the cruiser on top of my lawn reticulation and blast off all the salty sand.
You can definately minimise rust by keeping it clean and making sure all the seals and exit points for moisture are ok

 

[mikeyT]

Silver C; ask a Canadian about rust control (or lack of).

I've driven cruisers so rusty that, on hitting a bump, you'd think someone was shaking a box of corn flakes out the back.

Actually, our friends from the warmer climes are correct: get rid of it then prevent like hell, esp. if you're in Canada. You'll still have to fix it again at some point down the road.

My BJ70 was fixed 6 years ago; lower rear quarters and some touch ups here and there. I will have to get it fixed again this year, but it's not as bad looking as it was 6 years ago.

Here's what I do:

-I use Krown light oil spray in February, before it starts to thaw (that's when the salt really begins to work). The oil is fresh during the thaw, then, when it gets warmer, the oil wicks into every nook and cranny. Krown does it; in Feb. there's hardly anyone going so they take their time. Also, they're down to their full-time staff, so less chance of getting some rushed fill-in part-timer. On top of that, they can't stand to see so much salt on the truck, so you get a free car wash!

-in the fall, I get a non-drip heavy, sticky oil applied only as an undercoat. I don't like the non-drip applied within the body panels, especially before the cold weather, because I think it actually clogs some cracks and seams allowing moisture to go to work. The Krown remains inside those fine, narrow areas.

Keep the frame cleaned out and heavily goo-ed up. Don't allow any structural compromise anywhere, ever.

Make sure there are no holes underneath. The typical spot is under the rear wheel wells at the very back. Holes there allow salty moist air to circulate up as far as the roof pan. This could be a major contributor to roof line and roof pillar rot.

Finally, if you're getting close having to get the body work done, but can't or don't want to pay for it just yet, there are a million ways to hide the rust for cosmetic purposes for a short while (fender flares, etc.). You're still gonna have to cut it out at some point.

There's so much goo under my truck in places, when welding underneath there's a risk of it catching fire. Seriously, you get to recognize when that glowing blob is just going to drip down on to your wrist.... believe me you learn how to move fast!

Cheers from snowy Ottawa.

 

[mikeyT]

Oh, Rosco;

With all due respect, but Kittens don't cut it up here

 

[Wherlwind]

I use a product called Fluid Film on anything that can rust. You can get it at Crappy Tire now so it's easier to find than it used to be. Keep the frame rails flushed out and weep holes clear. I spray outside and inside the frame rails, tailgate, rear quarters, rockers, rad supports, well you get it. ANYWHERE that can rust. Unfortunately I started too late so my frame is shot but still use it to try and keep what I have left.
There are probably differing opinions here but I don't think I'd use any spray on undercoating because moisture may get in behind it still. Keep your truck washed and waxed. That way you'll notice any little problems before they become a big deal. Hope this helps a bit. pete

 

[mikeyT]

There are probably differing opinions here but I don't think I'd use any spray on undercoating because moisture may get in behind it still. Keep your truck washed and waxed.

I use a thick oil-based undercoating; it's gooey. No moisture gets under it. I agree, though, to avoid any of the plastic, hard tar-like or paint-like products in this salty environment. That only accelerates the rust.

 

[mikeyT]

Silver C, as far as the tree huggers go, if ever anyone complains about your use of oil rust prevention, tell them to lobby the powers that be to stop using so much salt on the roads. By salting our roads, we are salting up our streams, rivers and wells; the environmental impact is enormous. And that's without mentionning the economic cost of applying the salt and of corrosion of vehicles. Decrease the salt and the rust prevention can be toned down.

Cheers from snowy, salty Ottawa.

 

[David*BJ70]

So ... what I can see here.... no one recommand product like POR-15 ?

 

[Diescipel]

My 4x4 shop guy recommends Ospho (chemical rust converter)--he loves my BJ42 and wants me to come in on a Sat. and put it on the lift, get suited up, and spray with a garden sprayer thingy. I was thinking of going with the oil spray like on Mike T's BJ42 after the Ospho treatment. Thoughts???

B

 

[MoJ]

So ... what I can see here.... no one recommand product like POR-15 ?

I was doing some searching and found this old thread. Does anyone have any opinions on POR-15 as David asked?

 

[crushers]

yep, stay away from the crap. once it is on then there is nothing you can do to catch any rust under the paint. it is also a PITA to apply.
paint any exposed areas with a good primer and oil or Krown every year.

<just padding my count>
cheers

 

[Eric Winkworth]

yep, stay away from the crap. once it is on then there is nothing you can do to catch any rust under the paint. it is also a PITA to apply.
paint any exposed areas with a good primer and oil or Krown every year.

<just padding my count>
cheers

Finally, Krown, is all you need to know about rust prevention! and re apply fluid film or get the krown re appliced on dry spots

 

[MoJ]

I'll have to see Krown is available in my area. I have a Canadian buddy on the way (knock on wood) and wanted to get it prepared for winter although I don't think they use road salt here but rather some other product.

Thanks for the help,
Jason

 

[cruiser_guy]

I had my truck done about 8-10 years ago and have had it "Krown"ed each fall since then and there is no evidence that the rust has come back agressively. I don't think you'd want to wait to "Krown" it till spring as the salt has had too much time to get in there. The Krown tends to go liquid and run all over the place when it's hot that's why it gets into the nooks and crannys.

p.s. My truck is a Canadian truck, I bought it at Metro Toyota in Victoria in '89 so I know about western Canadian winters.

 

[Tapage]

Well here in Panama the rust is a big trouble .. no matter what I live 1 km from the sea we found in Wurth a same chemical rust converter .. no toxis, bio at extreme, that you can aplicate it with your hands with no harm.

 

[lshobie]

Krown doesnt totally cut it here in ontario (ottawa). There is just too much salt everywhere in teh winter. I heard that ontario alone uses 30 percent of the worlds salt production every year.

I use krown which seeps and Duraguard after that - it's a thick gooey sludge that you have to scrape off after it drys up a bit. Those 2 in combination do a great job, but make it messy for working on your truck.

Regards

 

[crushers]

or...
to preserve your JDM properly...
buy a beater for the winter and drive it. this is what my wife does each winter, she parks her BMW and drives a LC from Nov till the streets are swept in the spring.
tis the only real way to make the Japanese steel last...
cheers