1HZ Stalls Under Load, idles fine (1 Viewer)

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Hello,

Beware I am not an expert on diesel systems or injector pumps and I have no clue what I’m doing half the time, so any advice no matter how simple you think it is could possibly be of help!!

Symptoms: running 1HZ under load, losing power, engine stalls, hard to start and sputters when starting. (Sounds almost like a cylinder is an air compressor, but not like a Jake brake. It literally sounds like the pressure relief valve on an air compressor until it smoothes out)

I’ve spent the last few weeks troubleshooting, replaced diesel solenoid (was faulty), replaced leaky seals in injector pump (main top housing seal was weeping and accelerator spring o ring was leaking). Finally got the 1HZ running and drove it on short tests drives all weekend, all within 10km.

Monday comes along and I feel confident to drive to work. I have radio down listening on the way there and it’s fine. Power is what it should be for a 1HZ, and get there no dramas after a 24km drive.

Work finishes, I start the 80 on the first crank, and get to driving home. I turn onto the main road and as soon as I hit 4th gear going about 70, I notice I lose power. I pull up to traffic lights and the idle lowers significantly. I turn off the main road onto a side street and open my bonnet. Now it idles fine (I checked idle screw too in case it could have come loose).
I decide I will limp it home but as soon as I start driving again now I’m third gear it stalls out. I pull over try starting, now takes many cranks to start. I prime my fuel pump and now it starts easily, but then stalls out shortly after.

This is the problem I’ve been troubleshooting, and it seems to happen intermittently. The first time it happened it was a banjo fitting into the IP that was leaking, didn’t happen again for months. Then happened again a few months ago, and then went fine for a few months (couldn’t find a fault then) then happened a few weeks ago and haven’t been able to have sustainable results since.

I noticed a split in the fuel line on the barb out of the primer , which bubbles when pressed. I had a mate drive out to me (the one day I leave my tools at the workshop) and I cut the split end off and stole a worm drive clamp from my power steering . Engine started first crank again after pressurising primer for about 2 mins.

I end up towing home.

Once home, car starts fine off the tow truck but take it for test drive round the block and stalls out once I go up the hill. Good thing I didn’t send the tow truck back.

Today (Tuesday) I put clear hose between primer and IP to check for air. There were a few bubbles (very small and infrequent) that came from the primer, and also a huge big bubble from taking the hose off.

My next plan of attack is to reverse the primer pump with a Jerry can of diesel to push any gunk out (I will disconnect line to tank) as I don’t have air at home. Don’t know how effective this will be.

also will try putting a bore scope into tank to see if there’s a leaf or dirt or something blocking the pickup.

Items I have replaced:
- Primer pump
- IP seals + copper crush washers
- solenoid
-cleaned mesh filter under IP solenoid (was pretty clean, but made sure anyway)


Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks
 
I would get a small fuel container and fix it to the inside of the engine bay and run the fuel directly into the injection pump.
This would isolate the problem.

Engine started first crank again after pressurising primer for about 2 mins.
You shouldn't need to do this. Even if the fuel lines are completely dry, it should only take 30 pumps to draw fuel from the tank to the primer (from the FSM)
 
sounds like you identified its air from the primer.....
 
We have all been there man. I ended up replacing every rubber line on mine to ensure the problem wouldn't resurface for a long time. The clear line to the IP is the key, so it sounds like you are on your way.

I also had a hairline crack in the pickup tube on top of the tank too, so if all else fails, there's another place to check. But my money is also on the filter housing/primer.
 

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