The Road to a 100 and 2001 build thread

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Iphone plug

Right now I have the Iphone connected coming out next to the 12V plug in the center console storage area. Later on I want to make an iPhone dock in the spare change holder. I think Slee did that on one of their rigs.
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what alpine unit were you using? In the Alpine user manual it says that video is completely disabled unless you connect the parking break and parking light wires up from the headunit.
 
using a kenwood, but the concept is the same for all of them. Ground that one wire (it was pink on the few I've installed before). I'd also solder those wires instead of the crimps to keep them from pulling out.
 
PAC TR-7

Turned out that the PAC TR-7 I had was bad. I popped in a new one and I had access to video and menu settings. Maybe grounding the one wire would work. Alpine explicitly states the need for the PAC to bypass the video lock. It was only $20 for the unit so its no big deal.
 
Door Removal

I thought I would post a few photos detailing removing the door panels for anyone that is interested. There is another thread somewhere on here that has some good pics too. First thing I do when removing the panels is to take out the two screws near the door hinge. This requires prying off to trim covers to access the screws.
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Then I remove all the plastic pop rivets and fasteners around the sides and bottom of the door panel. The pop rivets release simply by pressing on the center button with a screwdriver or anything pointy.
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After removing all the pop rivets and bottom screws you have to take the door lever trim off. The first part to this is to pop up the little cover in the middle of the trim to expose a screw. Remove the screw.
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This next part took me a while to figure out how to do right without breaking the stupid trim piece. I thought at first that I had to come in from the top with a small screwdriver and push down on the tabs that hold the trim to the lever mechanism. After getting nowhere and killing my fingers trying to pry back the trim enough to get a screw driver in I decided to take a step back and give things another look. I soon realized that I was going about it the wrong way. If you slide a small flat head screwdriver in right above the lock switch as shown below and pry up, the trim pops right off.
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Taking the door lock and window switch panel out can be a bear too. I found it easiest to insert a flat head screwdriver under the switch unit at the front and push back on the metal spring clip until you can pop the front out. Once the front pops out you can pull the unit forward until the back lip is free. Once removed you should disconnect the cables.
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Once the switch unit is out be sure to remove the single fastener that is shown above on the right. I always forget and end up tugging on the panel wondering why it wont come off this time.

Last thing to do is remove the tweeter cover
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Once the tweeter cover is removed you can rock the door panel until it pops off the top where the window seal is. Be sure to disconnect the door light cables before pulling the door panel away from the door.

I know this isn't a super detailed guide as I am missing a few photos but hopefully it helps.

Here are the front and back passenger panels removed. I also took out the front passenger seat to give myself some extra room to work.
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Front and Rear Speakers

With the door panels off I could move on to my front and rear speaker replacements. I had been dreading installing these speakers. When I first bought them I took the door panels off to see if they would just be plug and play size wise. It didn't appear that they would be for either the woofer or tweeters. I was kind of bummed and was not looking forward to doing custom fab work to get the tweeters and woofers mounted. So I put the whole thing off until just recently. The alpine speakers have 4 screws slots at 90 degrees but the radius that they are on is slightly smaller than the threaded hole radius on the stock speaker mount. The adapters included with the speakers didn't match up at all either.

I decided to take another look at it and for some reason they seemed to fit this time. I think I may have originally gone straight to the adapters that came with the speaker instead of just trying the speaker with no adapter. Whatever the reason, I was excited that they seemed to fit OK. The screws don't cover the slot as much as I would like but it is enough that with 4 screws in place the speaker isn't going anywhere.
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Here is the rear speaker before and after installation. The rear was simple plug and play. I didn't have to mess with the wiring.
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The next thing I had to figure out was where to put the crossover. I really didn't want to put it anywhere other than on the door near the speaker to avoid having to run any wires from the door to the car. The only place it looked like it would fit was right next to the speaker. There was just enough space to make it fit. The door panel goes on perfectly. I used 3M double sided tape to get the placement right before using self tapping screws to permanently install it.
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The left edge of the crossover sits flush against the edge of the stock speaker mount and the bottom of the crossover lines up with the roll off of the sheet metal of the door. Both good reference points for getting both crossovers in the same position.

For the front speakers I removed the stock wire harness connecters and just wired straight to the speakers.

One really confusing thing for me was how the wiring for the tweeters and woofers was done stock. Just looking at the wires on the door side of things, they branch out to the woofer and tweeter but it is really hard to see where they are coming from or how the two are connected if at all. My worry was that there was a crossover in the stock amp that was already sending the correct frequencies to the tweeters and woofers. I didn't want to plug my brand new reference speakers into the stock wiring without knowing what was going where. A quick look at the stock amp showed that there was only a single pair of wires coming out of the amp for each front speaker. This seemed to indicate that all Toyota had done was a basic split of the wiring and that there was really nothing fancy going on. I peeled back all the mushy electrical tape and my thoughts were confirmed. The single line coming from the amp was just twisted together with two other pairs of wires; one for the woofer and one for the tweeter. There was no frequency separation going on. In the photo below you can see a pink and purple pair of wires in the middle of the photo, those are the stock wires from the amp. I cut away everything else that was going to the speakers and replaced it with my own wires just so I knew what was going where.
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I extended the stock wires and ran those to the crossover and then ran the appropriate wires to the woofer and tweeter. All this wiring is temporary. I have plans to replace the stock amp and when I do I will rewire the entire system with higher grade audio wiring and soldered connections at the speakers. That will eliminate all the stupid crimp ends and extensions you see in my wiring job. My goal for this was to just get it working so I could have some tunes.

The next part was what I had been dreading: Installing the tweeters. The stock JBL tweeters were pretty minimal. No housing, no substantial plastic around the tweeter. It had a nice threaded post on the rear of the speaker that fit nicely to the custom JBL mounting bracket in the stock location. My new Alpine tweeter was a bit larger, had more plastic around it and had no threaded rod. So it was not a simple plug and play affair. I wanted the tweeter in the stock location and didn't want to have to put it on the door pillar or something like that.

With the tweeter stuck to the JBL mounting bracket with 3M tape the plastic trim grill/cover could not be pressed all the way into place without making the hole for the tweeter larger. To make it fit I took a dremel and made the opening in the plastic tweeter grill / cover a little larger to accomodate the larger dome grill on the tweeter. Worked perfectly. I progressively made the hole a little larger until the trim could pop back in place while at the same time pressing in enough on the tweeter to hold it in place. The combination of the 3M tape and pressure from the trim was enough to hold the speaker in place without rattling or moving.
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Unfortunately I forgot to take photos of the dremel work on the tweeter grill.

I reversed the door removal process and turned everything on. It all works and sounds fantastic. The stock subs are blown out so I keep the music faded front at the moment. The subs will be disconnected when I replace the amp and install a 8" or 10" sub. I am tempted to go down to a 8" so I can build a custom enclosure and put it in the stock location. I saw someone that had done that on their 100. It looked pretty trick. I have always had at least 10" but I am not looking to rattle houses when I drive by, just fill in the low end. Having it in the stock location would be nice so I don't have to move it in and out of the truck when I travel.
 
Hey Paul,

Do you have the part number on that Toyota wiring harness for your Alpine install?

Is your Alpine model the same as Layton's?

Great write ups btw, wish you were in Denver vs. Pas, so you could help me with my installs....I am from that area...
 
Unfortunately I don't have it. I just went to my local shop and said I need a harness and he gave me one.
 
Had free reign on toy purchasing today.

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This afternoon's project


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I like the look of that one. Install pics when you're done please. We've got a few long car trips planned and I thought about installing a CB for the fun of it.
 
CB was easy. I don't have a ham license or anything....yet. One step at a time.
 
Adam, get on it! You have like 19 hours to get it installed and working.
 
I got a tunable fire stick 4 foot antenna. I haven't started putting it on yet. I'll probably just mount directly to my bumper and wait until it gets torn off by a tree limb. It's part of my plan to get a new rear bumper.
 

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