Would the rack be easier if you were doing CV's, and UCA and lower ball joints at the same time, and have the shocks, CV's and knuckles out of the way? Or still worth it to have the shop do it? I love the cryptic "hint" in the FSM. 
200K make over
- Thread starter Utahfj62
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Tie rod end replacement
My truck is at 198K miles. I had torn boots on my tie rod ends for the last couple of months. Had them replaced today and I feel a significant "tightening" of the steering/handling. I believe that the original tie rod end were most likely badly worn long before the boots cracked. Sorry, I do not have a picture of the old ends, I will try to get one.
I thought this was a good place to add info for "refreshing" high mileage 100 series...
My truck is at 198K miles. I had torn boots on my tie rod ends for the last couple of months. Had them replaced today and I feel a significant "tightening" of the steering/handling. I believe that the original tie rod end were most likely badly worn long before the boots cracked. Sorry, I do not have a picture of the old ends, I will try to get one.
I thought this was a good place to add info for "refreshing" high mileage 100 series...
Would the rack be easier if you were doing CV's, and UCA and lower ball joints at the same time, and have the shocks, CV's and knuckles out of the way? Or still worth it to have the shop do it? I love the cryptic "hint" in the FSM.
I'd attempt the rack refresh, next time, if I had access to a lift. And even then the cus'ometer would surely be activated
. Ask Joe at Slee's how he likes doing this job 
- Thread starter
- #25
Found another 200k makeover need. Took the family into Canyonlands over Labor Day - Elephant hill to Chesler Park - but before we left I crawled under and around and found the front axle support bushing cracked and done.
Pulled it and was suprized at how easy it was to rotate the bushing. I was getting some axle movement I'm sure.
Other side
I was amazed that the bushing had moved completley off center and was pushed up against the wall of the support housing. I had to use a floor jack to move the axle back a couple of inches so the bolts would line back up with the new support and bushing. Removed more thunk in the driveline and felt solid wheeling all weekend.
And this finally happened just as we were heading into Canyonlands almost right next to the Canyonlands sign in the Needles District.
Pulled it and was suprized at how easy it was to rotate the bushing. I was getting some axle movement I'm sure.
Other side
I was amazed that the bushing had moved completley off center and was pushed up against the wall of the support housing. I had to use a floor jack to move the axle back a couple of inches so the bolts would line back up with the new support and bushing. Removed more thunk in the driveline and felt solid wheeling all weekend.
And this finally happened just as we were heading into Canyonlands almost right next to the Canyonlands sign in the Needles District.
Interesting that you posted that front axle support. I was looking at mine and noticed that it had a fair amount of wear. It's not completely gone like yours, but I mentally put it on the to do list. $106 for a little brace! Yikes!
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- #27
$106 is a deal - I paid $123.
do you have the part number handy for this? Thanks
From Toyota Auto Parts at Toyota Parts East | Genuine OEM Toyota Parts , I'm guessing 52380-60040, but always good to doublecheck with the good folks at Camelback...
BTW, these seem to be the only guys around with a site that Toyota hasn't shut down their parts diagrams on.
BTW, these seem to be the only guys around with a site that Toyota hasn't shut down their parts diagrams on.
So are we both replacing them this week?
From Toyota Auto Parts at Toyota Parts East | Genuine OEM Toyota Parts , I'm guessing 52380-60040, but always good to doublecheck with the good folks at Camelback...
BTW, these seem to be the only guys around with a site that Toyota hasn't shut down their parts diagrams on.
I've been using Toyota of Dallas when I just want to order something quick after hours and Beno's not available. Diagrams seem to be working fine. I know that toyotapartszone.com is going through a similar thing with theirs.
ToyotaPartSales.com
- Thread starter
- #32
52380-60040 - That's the one.
Another 100-guy in our region had the other front axle support bushings wear out on him. Mine are still good but you should check them while you are down there too. Part numbers - 41653-60020 and 41654-60010.
Another 100-guy in our region had the other front axle support bushings wear out on him. Mine are still good but you should check them while you are down there too. Part numbers - 41653-60020 and 41654-60010.
not this week, but very soon...I have assorted thunks and clunks, pretty sure this is one of them....
Great info
I am also starting down this update things road. Would the slee suspension kit with coils and shocks be a good place to start or should I just buy the shocks and update some of the already mentioned parts? Don't really need the lift, just want to freshen up the feel of the truck.
I am also starting down this update things road. Would the slee suspension kit with coils and shocks be a good place to start or should I just buy the shocks and update some of the already mentioned parts? Don't really need the lift, just want to freshen up the feel of the truck.
So how hard is it to do this stuff? The rack I will definitely pay to have done when the time comes but the rest doesn't look to bad. I have never worked on an IFS before though. I need to check my suspension out a bit more and see if anything needs to be replaced.
Everything but the rack is completed with simple hand tools, not hard at all. Basically, unbolt at two ends, part comes straight out, replace with new. definitely
jobs....- Thread starter
- #37
Everything but the rack is completed with simple hand tools, not hard at all. Basically, unbolt at two ends, part comes straight out, replace with new. definitely
Agreed. All was very easy except the lower ball joints and steering rack. I pulled the lower control arms completely off to press the ball joints out/in.Not difficult - just time consuming. Make sure you take the weight off the torsion bars before you remove the lower control arms.
My diff mount is pretty blown too. Will be replacing next week, part is ordered.
- Thread starter
- #39
Make sure you put a couple of floor jacks in before you take the bolts out. If you don't your entire front diff assembly might try to fall on your head - i've heard - not from personal experience. My neighbor did this not me. Just sayin.
Post up a pic of the old one curious to see compared to mine.
TheFuzz still has my floorjack, so I'll have Slee do it. 