Looks fine. At least it includes all the hardware, you won't be chasing odds and ends up. I know of plenty of people running a 600x300 core with no issues, just in case you want a bit more surface area
The official 1HDT Intercooler thread (4 Viewers)
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I could be wrong, but it seems like there's more connections on that kit compared to Safari or HPD. Yes, it's a lot cheaper, but more connections equals more potential leak points. Maybe some of those sections could be welded up rather than using the couplers, but then you are eating into your savings by going with this kit over one of the others.
I looked into this one. Be aware it mounts down between the frame horns behind the bumper. The pipes are exposed in the front. Seems like it will see little airflow directly behind the bumper and forget about a winch. When I asked the seller for images of the cooler installed he copied the picture off of HPD diesels website for their stage one kit. (see attached)
I ended up with the HPD stage 2. Was expensive but will worth it IMO. Mounts behind the grill for plenty of flow.
Umm, that cooler ^^^^^ looks like it's upside down!
If it fits there, surely it would fit turned upward.
If it fits there, surely it would fit turned upward.
You would think so, but that is how it mounts with the supplied hardware. If it were flipped it would need different hardware
Ok, the design of that cooler looks upside down 
Apologies if I'm not making an obvious connection here.... how is the coolant temp affected by an A2A I/C?
I would assume you're saying the I/C lowers EGT resulting in less heat at the block and therefore less heat to raise the coolant temps? In that case, why not turn up the fuel during the winter to compensate?
I don't know enough about it to say for sure, but yes, I would make the same assumption as you. I think I remember reading other threads on the mud forum where it has been stated that the intercooler will not have any affect on coolant temperature; however, that does not appear to be true based on my observations. In addition to the cold weather info I posted previously during summer months I'd see the coolant temperature go just above 90C during highway hill runs. Since the intercooler was installed I haven't seen more than 85C in similar conditions.
I guess you could turn your fuel up, but if you've spent time fiddling with your tune to get things set just right, I doubt you'd want to spend the time to keep adjusting every six months or so.
@zipdoa - Off topic, I think you sent me a message on youtube a little while back...did you get your high EGT's sorted?
That's a nice set upDo you have a splitter in your scoop to help air get to the front half of the intercooler as well? I don't know how the aerodynamics actually play out, but I know there are products for Subarus to help air pass over the front half of the intercooler. Necessary or helpful? I'm not sure...
One thing to think about is the climate you live in. Since changing to FMIC setup on my truck the coolant temperatures are lower which is good for most of the year since I live in the Vancouver, BC area, but I noticed this year during our "cold spells" the truck takes a long time to warm up and even on my ~25km drive up a few big hills the coolant temp barely gets up to full temperature on the drive and it will drop on downhill runs. On flat stretches with no stop and go or downhill the coolant temp will drop a bit (maybe 75 where normal I see is 80 C). So, obviously, when it drops your heat inside is less. Even at only -2C I drive to work with the heater on full temp with the fan on the 3rd setting and I'm not one who likes to be too warm. Just something to think about for those in colder climates.
I have thought about a splitter or deflector but not sure. Does air stack up to form static pressure inside the scoop and move thru uniformly? Or is it traveling across the top of the intercooler and only going thru the back section of the cooler. Once I have my hood seal and pan figured out I will have to look into that. I wonder what the WRC rally subaru,s are using. You can bet they know the answer. I could try and model it in solid works and see what it looks like for flow or lack there of.
Regarding coolent temps ...
Recently temperature here has been -29C in the morning without wind chill. My truck can idle forever and barely move the needle. I have a new 82C thermostat installed and the blind down. Once underway the temp comes up immediately. I dont know if the intercooler has changed anything but I will try and take note. On the hiway at speed the heater will cook you out even in -29C. I wonder what my charge temp is when it is this cold.
Cheers Dave
With temps that cold, I'm sure after a run down the highway you could pull over and put your hand or an infrared thermometer on the IC core, and figure out if it's all getting air or just the back section. If just the back section, you're rearmost cylinders are getting a colder, more dense charge of air than the front cylinders, which I wouldn't think is ideal.
Hey, yeah that was me.
I backed off the max fuel screw a bit, EGTs are pretty good and now I only see 1200F when I hit 4th gear lockup (a442f) and boost drops to 5psi (1500PM). Around town it's 600-800f max especially in gears 1-3.
the truck seems sluggish (won't hold 80km/h up any significant grade) and doesn't feels like it wants to make power in higher RPM. I also get more grey-ish smoke than black. I only get a puff black smoke on startup and little if I rev it hard at idle. Even with the fuel turned up and higher EGT's, it stays gray under load.
edit:
I'm running a rebuilt 1hdt with a rebuilt ip/injectors and a gturbo gx. We upgraded to later style pistons with the bigger combustion bowl, and the injectors have been spaced accordingly.
I would imagine this setup should allow me to climb hills at the speed limit (80-100kmh) in pretty any reasonable scenario without exceeding 1150f EGT?
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Intercooling does two things. It lowers intake air temps, lower temp in, lower temp out (all else being equal).
And it increases the density of the intake air charge and therefore you get a higher AFR and lower combustion temps. Lower combustion temp means less heat will transfer to the coolant.
My hdj80 (no intercooler ) ran noticeably stronger when ambient air temps where in single digits (Celsius).
I think there's no reason you couldn't re-tune for winter
You should talk to the guys at Okanagan Diesel in Vernon when they were rebuilding my pump they wanted to know if I had changed pistons to the newer style. I believe there were injector and pump mods required as well as injector spacers. Worth a call at least.
That's where I had the pump and inj rebuilt
I'm almost 100% sure my timing is too retarded, it would explain the lack of power and the smoke.
I bought the tools on ebay for under 30.00 delivered to check timingThat's where I had the pump and inj rebuilt
I'm almost 100% sure my timing is too retarded, it would explain the lack of power and the smoke.
Can,t find the exact one but this is looks identical.
3 in 1 Bosch Injection Pump Timing Tool Kit For VW Audi Volvo BMW A317
You do need your own dial indicator or you purchase with adapters for $45.00 ish
Finished my Safari Intercooler install a short while ago and have some test drives on it now, so it’s update time. While things were apart it was time to install the G-Turbo Grunter Extreme, 110amp Alternator, 12,000lb Titan winch and put on new AC and Alt belts. And just because, some speaker pods on the middle row doors so I can run some 6.5” Polk Audio speakers and an oh s*** bar on the dash. A number of these items I’ve had on the shelf for a while, so it was good to get to them at last.
I considered a separate thread, but then thought as this is the “official” thread it would be okay to keep it all in one place. Hope the info helps those pondering.
Impressions: There is considerable difference pre versus post. It’s a different truck around home and on the highways. Because I did the turbo and IC it’s a wholesale change, from driving to the pyro and backing out all the time, to what seems like wanting to go right off the line and good response when working on sustained grades at speed. Its...wow! Not whiplash wow...more like grunter wow.
Also of note for local hills around home and daily driving off the highways: Where I would have to back out and drive to the pyro, I am now driving the hill staying at speed and am 400f-450f cooler on the pyro, reading 800f to 850f for hills on regular routes close to home.
Truck and Baseline Info: 1993/94 build 1HD-T, electronic A442F, Wholesale VB and TC, in a 1994 locked USA FZJ80. Full armour all around, running 315’s, drawer system and fridge in back. It’s not light. And a Crusin Offroad roof rack up top. I’ve been running 14-15 psi boost on the stock turbo since the install (about 80,000kms now), have a number of trips to Moab, a trip to Yellowknife and trips around BC on it. I have been running the stock FZJ ATF cooler since install. The pump was timed at install with slight advance and a few years after it was on the road I had some work done on the fueling and fuel pin. I’ve a Madman gauge kit on it and have the pyro set to alarm at 1250F. Pyro is pre-turbo. On most hills around home I would be backing out during the hill and on freeway/roadtrips would drop a gear and/or have to back out on hills to keep temps below 1250F. On big hills like the Coq and Connector I would not be able to maintain speed for TC lockup for the whole hill and would be feathering the throttle to the pyro.
Post Install Roadtrip: To road test the IC and Turbo before Moab, I drove the Coq and Connector to Kelowna, visited some friends, stopped at Okanagan Diesel to meet Jon and check/adjust pump timing if needed and then drove the Connector and Coq back home. It’s still winter/spring so temps were cool. In fact it was snowing at the top of the Connector on the way there. I’ll keep track of things in the heat of summer and update as needed.
For those not familiar with the Coquihalla or the Connector I’ve attached the road specs via link. The trip to Kelowna was using 18psi. The trip back I set it to 22psi. Also, all these numbers as comparisons just to give an idea. They are not absolute comparisons as ambient air temp, air moisture, head or tailwind etc all would have some affect.
Old Setup Flat Driving – On the freeway, after things are warmed up I would typically see at 2200 rpm around 850f on the pyro at 105kmph. ATF temps would be around 120f, TC locked.
New Setup Flat Driving – On the freeway, after things were warmed up and at 2200 rpm I am seeing around 700/750f on the pryo at 105kmph, with ATF temps around 130f, TC locked.
Old Setup: Northbound Coq max speed just past the snow shed (steepest part) would typically be around 74kmph and ATF temps of 207f.
New Setup: On the way there we got slowed down due to road work right at the snow shed and came out of the snow shed at 50-60kmph, so there is no comparison. However, of note...I left the truck in D with OD on to do its own thing. At the top I was in 3rd, TC unlocked with ATF temps at 230f (I have the temp gauge set to alarm at 220f) and had picked up speed to around 100kmph. I was above TC lockup speed however the TC did not lock up as the OD button was still on. Pyro was never a concern. The entire trip it never went above 1150f.
Old Setup: Eastbound Connector, starting from a stop at the turn signal from the bottom. Typically max speed around 88kmph driving to the pyro, 226f atf temp and no TC lockup.
New Setup: Starting from a stop at the bottom its happy place was 105kmph, OD off so TC lockup in 3rd, 2800 rpm, 147f atf at the top of the climb, 1000f pyro.
The return trip on the Connector out of Kelowna to Merrit includes a sustained 20 minute climb coming up to and past the Brenda Mine to the Pennask summit. I don’t have any old stats. Now running 22psi for the return trip the engines happy place was 100-105 kmph, 2700-2800 rpm, 3rd gear (OD off, so TC lock up), 840-900f EGTs and at the top of the hill ATF at 150f. It seemed happy to pull all day like that.
Safari Intercooler Install: As those who have fitted the Safari IC know, the front mount means you have to ditch the FZJ80 ATF cooler. I ended up sandwiching a Tru-Cool 4544 between the Safari IC and the AC Condenser. If you followed the Safari IC instructions, the IC upright supports are supposed to go behind the upper radiator support assy. This gives clearance for the IC to front grill detail. This also leaves no room for a thin transmission cooler, unless you relocate the ATF cooler. I did the same as ham00 and placed the IC uprights in front of the upper rad support assy and also further spaced it out, so I could have at least 1/4"-3/8” space between the AC condenser to ATF cooler, and ATF cooler to IC. This necessitated clearancing the plastic grill inside bottom area significantly so it would fit. This also required some modifications to the lower front end panel (the one the turn signals are in) so it would work. The ARB bumper needed a couple inches of an upright loped off so for the upper hose. If you want to maintain a front mount ATF cooler, it takes some work. In a manual truck, the front mount IC install would much less invasive.
It’s a complete thought out kit. Really tight install for clearances. I found out why they supply a shorter 90 elbow for the turbo to air cleaner tubing. The IC ducting, AC pump and air cleaner ducting all create a pretty tight area. I replaced most of the clamps with T-clamps. It would be a royal pain to get to the clamps below the right side battery tray on the roadside in s***ty weather. I did use the supplied clamps at the IC connections but they are easy to access any time. Due to the ATF cooler, this is not a plug and play per instructions. I can understand folk looking to top mount style applications to leave the front alone, however I had the kit, installed it and am really happy with the results so far. I will track/update when needed.
Auto Transmission Temps: I’ve no long term daily atf temps for around town driving, as while the Madman gauge can receive and scroll display multiple inputs (egt, boost, oil temp, coolant temp, coolent level, etc) I don’t let it scroll, choosing to leave it on the pyro setting all the time. Now that I don’t have to manage the pyro like I did, I might leave it on the atf temp setting and track it for a while. I’ve done that a little the last couple days and it ranges from 140-180f and then of course comes down if ever it gets to locks up. ATF temps seem good and the only time I reached 230f and for the shortest time was when I did not take it out of OD to force TC lockup in 3rd right at the top of the Coq.
As best as one can with these comparisons, I see that I am slightly hotter temps with my ATF on the flat now that the new cooler is sandwiched between the AC condenser and IC core when in lockup. On the big hills I could not maintain TC lockup where I now can, so with lockup comes cooler temps. They still are warmer then locked on the flat, but the 150f I saw when locked and steady state holding 105kmph in 3rd on the 20 minute Pennask Summit climb is still in a great range. We will see what summer brings.
Fuel Mileage: It will be interesting to see if anything happens to fuel mileage. I baselined by fuelling up at home and drove to Kelowna then Vernon, refuelled, drove back home and refuelled. 1st part was 478kms at 13.81 l/100km. 2nd part was 383 kms at 13.58l/100km. The vast majority was in mountains. This is correct distance (GPS readings).
Of Note:
Speedo Correction: I see the need for a speedometer correction kit. My TC would then lock at the driven speed, unlike indicated speed as it is now, due to the 10% difference from the rubber overdrive. On steep long climbs like this in stock setup, history shows the TC would have been able to lock up with with OD off a number of times. While not as much a concern now I think it would still be best to have the indicated speed match ground speed so any signals related to speed are getting accurate info. I do have the older version of the Wholesale Automatic TC lockup switch which I will install at some point. That switch will be used only when a gear has been selected and will be turned off before any gear changes are done.
Fuel Pin and Fuel Adjustments: My fuel and pin have been adjusted/modified, but needs to be fine tuned. There’s more room available. I’ll get to this after Moab at some point. And think I would prefer to tune in the heat of summer. I’ll look further into the Zeal fuel rod at that time. For now it works well. With my boost set to 22psi, during long sustained climbs at max boost it creeps up on the over boost section of the pin and dials back the fuel. At least that is what I believe is happening, if I understand the pin profile correctly. I do know off the throttle and back on resets and then it’s good again. In regular driving with the usual hills and valleys it’s not a concern. Even at max boost for a little bit it does not happen. It must be just at the point, as after long sustained max boost it rides up and defuels. I’m not seeing much smoke behind me, but the dump is under the rear bumper skid so there is no direct visual in the mirror. I’ve not done any night time driving with it since the changes, so have no headlights behind to gauge any haze.
Tachometer: My tach has dropped off just past 2800rpm since install. It’s got to be either the sender on the backside of the IP or the tach. It’s been a “get around to it” job since I never really have had much usable or sustained range past 2800 rpm. Now I don’t have to back out, or when hit the OD off button, it drops to 3rd and the TC locks it can pull using that rpm range. Suppose I will have to get around to figuring this out now.
ATF Cooler: When summer temps get here I will track and see how it does. If it does become a problem I will rethink things, perhaps loop a tube cooler into the system and mount it in between the frame horn area outside the engine bay and behind the bumper (general location where the PS line is looped for cooling).
I considered a separate thread, but then thought as this is the “official” thread it would be okay to keep it all in one place. Hope the info helps those pondering.
Impressions: There is considerable difference pre versus post. It’s a different truck around home and on the highways. Because I did the turbo and IC it’s a wholesale change, from driving to the pyro and backing out all the time, to what seems like wanting to go right off the line and good response when working on sustained grades at speed. Its...wow! Not whiplash wow...more like grunter wow.
Also of note for local hills around home and daily driving off the highways: Where I would have to back out and drive to the pyro, I am now driving the hill staying at speed and am 400f-450f cooler on the pyro, reading 800f to 850f for hills on regular routes close to home.
Truck and Baseline Info: 1993/94 build 1HD-T, electronic A442F, Wholesale VB and TC, in a 1994 locked USA FZJ80. Full armour all around, running 315’s, drawer system and fridge in back. It’s not light. And a Crusin Offroad roof rack up top. I’ve been running 14-15 psi boost on the stock turbo since the install (about 80,000kms now), have a number of trips to Moab, a trip to Yellowknife and trips around BC on it. I have been running the stock FZJ ATF cooler since install. The pump was timed at install with slight advance and a few years after it was on the road I had some work done on the fueling and fuel pin. I’ve a Madman gauge kit on it and have the pyro set to alarm at 1250F. Pyro is pre-turbo. On most hills around home I would be backing out during the hill and on freeway/roadtrips would drop a gear and/or have to back out on hills to keep temps below 1250F. On big hills like the Coq and Connector I would not be able to maintain speed for TC lockup for the whole hill and would be feathering the throttle to the pyro.
Post Install Roadtrip: To road test the IC and Turbo before Moab, I drove the Coq and Connector to Kelowna, visited some friends, stopped at Okanagan Diesel to meet Jon and check/adjust pump timing if needed and then drove the Connector and Coq back home. It’s still winter/spring so temps were cool. In fact it was snowing at the top of the Connector on the way there. I’ll keep track of things in the heat of summer and update as needed.
For those not familiar with the Coquihalla or the Connector I’ve attached the road specs via link. The trip to Kelowna was using 18psi. The trip back I set it to 22psi. Also, all these numbers as comparisons just to give an idea. They are not absolute comparisons as ambient air temp, air moisture, head or tailwind etc all would have some affect.
Old Setup Flat Driving – On the freeway, after things are warmed up I would typically see at 2200 rpm around 850f on the pyro at 105kmph. ATF temps would be around 120f, TC locked.
New Setup Flat Driving – On the freeway, after things were warmed up and at 2200 rpm I am seeing around 700/750f on the pryo at 105kmph, with ATF temps around 130f, TC locked.
Old Setup: Northbound Coq max speed just past the snow shed (steepest part) would typically be around 74kmph and ATF temps of 207f.
New Setup: On the way there we got slowed down due to road work right at the snow shed and came out of the snow shed at 50-60kmph, so there is no comparison. However, of note...I left the truck in D with OD on to do its own thing. At the top I was in 3rd, TC unlocked with ATF temps at 230f (I have the temp gauge set to alarm at 220f) and had picked up speed to around 100kmph. I was above TC lockup speed however the TC did not lock up as the OD button was still on. Pyro was never a concern. The entire trip it never went above 1150f.
Old Setup: Eastbound Connector, starting from a stop at the turn signal from the bottom. Typically max speed around 88kmph driving to the pyro, 226f atf temp and no TC lockup.
New Setup: Starting from a stop at the bottom its happy place was 105kmph, OD off so TC lockup in 3rd, 2800 rpm, 147f atf at the top of the climb, 1000f pyro.
The return trip on the Connector out of Kelowna to Merrit includes a sustained 20 minute climb coming up to and past the Brenda Mine to the Pennask summit. I don’t have any old stats. Now running 22psi for the return trip the engines happy place was 100-105 kmph, 2700-2800 rpm, 3rd gear (OD off, so TC lock up), 840-900f EGTs and at the top of the hill ATF at 150f. It seemed happy to pull all day like that.
Safari Intercooler Install: As those who have fitted the Safari IC know, the front mount means you have to ditch the FZJ80 ATF cooler. I ended up sandwiching a Tru-Cool 4544 between the Safari IC and the AC Condenser. If you followed the Safari IC instructions, the IC upright supports are supposed to go behind the upper radiator support assy. This gives clearance for the IC to front grill detail. This also leaves no room for a thin transmission cooler, unless you relocate the ATF cooler. I did the same as ham00 and placed the IC uprights in front of the upper rad support assy and also further spaced it out, so I could have at least 1/4"-3/8” space between the AC condenser to ATF cooler, and ATF cooler to IC. This necessitated clearancing the plastic grill inside bottom area significantly so it would fit. This also required some modifications to the lower front end panel (the one the turn signals are in) so it would work. The ARB bumper needed a couple inches of an upright loped off so for the upper hose. If you want to maintain a front mount ATF cooler, it takes some work. In a manual truck, the front mount IC install would much less invasive.
It’s a complete thought out kit. Really tight install for clearances. I found out why they supply a shorter 90 elbow for the turbo to air cleaner tubing. The IC ducting, AC pump and air cleaner ducting all create a pretty tight area. I replaced most of the clamps with T-clamps. It would be a royal pain to get to the clamps below the right side battery tray on the roadside in s***ty weather. I did use the supplied clamps at the IC connections but they are easy to access any time. Due to the ATF cooler, this is not a plug and play per instructions. I can understand folk looking to top mount style applications to leave the front alone, however I had the kit, installed it and am really happy with the results so far. I will track/update when needed.
Auto Transmission Temps: I’ve no long term daily atf temps for around town driving, as while the Madman gauge can receive and scroll display multiple inputs (egt, boost, oil temp, coolant temp, coolent level, etc) I don’t let it scroll, choosing to leave it on the pyro setting all the time. Now that I don’t have to manage the pyro like I did, I might leave it on the atf temp setting and track it for a while. I’ve done that a little the last couple days and it ranges from 140-180f and then of course comes down if ever it gets to locks up. ATF temps seem good and the only time I reached 230f and for the shortest time was when I did not take it out of OD to force TC lockup in 3rd right at the top of the Coq.
As best as one can with these comparisons, I see that I am slightly hotter temps with my ATF on the flat now that the new cooler is sandwiched between the AC condenser and IC core when in lockup. On the big hills I could not maintain TC lockup where I now can, so with lockup comes cooler temps. They still are warmer then locked on the flat, but the 150f I saw when locked and steady state holding 105kmph in 3rd on the 20 minute Pennask Summit climb is still in a great range. We will see what summer brings.
Fuel Mileage: It will be interesting to see if anything happens to fuel mileage. I baselined by fuelling up at home and drove to Kelowna then Vernon, refuelled, drove back home and refuelled. 1st part was 478kms at 13.81 l/100km. 2nd part was 383 kms at 13.58l/100km. The vast majority was in mountains. This is correct distance (GPS readings).
Of Note:
Speedo Correction: I see the need for a speedometer correction kit. My TC would then lock at the driven speed, unlike indicated speed as it is now, due to the 10% difference from the rubber overdrive. On steep long climbs like this in stock setup, history shows the TC would have been able to lock up with with OD off a number of times. While not as much a concern now I think it would still be best to have the indicated speed match ground speed so any signals related to speed are getting accurate info. I do have the older version of the Wholesale Automatic TC lockup switch which I will install at some point. That switch will be used only when a gear has been selected and will be turned off before any gear changes are done.
Fuel Pin and Fuel Adjustments: My fuel and pin have been adjusted/modified, but needs to be fine tuned. There’s more room available. I’ll get to this after Moab at some point. And think I would prefer to tune in the heat of summer. I’ll look further into the Zeal fuel rod at that time. For now it works well. With my boost set to 22psi, during long sustained climbs at max boost it creeps up on the over boost section of the pin and dials back the fuel. At least that is what I believe is happening, if I understand the pin profile correctly. I do know off the throttle and back on resets and then it’s good again. In regular driving with the usual hills and valleys it’s not a concern. Even at max boost for a little bit it does not happen. It must be just at the point, as after long sustained max boost it rides up and defuels. I’m not seeing much smoke behind me, but the dump is under the rear bumper skid so there is no direct visual in the mirror. I’ve not done any night time driving with it since the changes, so have no headlights behind to gauge any haze.
Tachometer: My tach has dropped off just past 2800rpm since install. It’s got to be either the sender on the backside of the IP or the tach. It’s been a “get around to it” job since I never really have had much usable or sustained range past 2800 rpm. Now I don’t have to back out, or when hit the OD off button, it drops to 3rd and the TC locks it can pull using that rpm range. Suppose I will have to get around to figuring this out now.
ATF Cooler: When summer temps get here I will track and see how it does. If it does become a problem I will rethink things, perhaps loop a tube cooler into the system and mount it in between the frame horn area outside the engine bay and behind the bumper (general location where the PS line is looped for cooling).
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