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Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by Enigma, Aug 31, 2011.
Complete kit made to order Ian.
that's a big core .. how it's the lag .? altho piping it's to the min .. my only upgrade would be another fan in there ..
@Grevis how does it connect to the manifold?
It's mounted to the body, but looks like not much room for a flexible connection to the manifold? Just wondering how it will cope with vibrations and engine movement?
They mount up like the cross country coolers
the front mounts are on the body where as they attach to the front of the intercooler which will move with the engine. I guess if the bracket can handle the flex it would be fine. If that bracket is stiff it will cause the intercooler to torque.
Tapage there's not really enough room for another fan between the cooler and the rocker cover. This cooler is very efficient the average temperature during the day where I live is mid 30c and I have popped the bonnet after giving my car a hard time in low range and the cooler is still only warm to touch with my hands.
As for lag well my car didn't have a cooler on it when I bought it and I installed the gturbo at the same time so there was an improvement really.
Mud the piping of the cooler exits towards the firewall and curls underneath it into the manifold as opposed to the cross country unit which does the same but towards the front of the motor.
Seems to holding up really well in regards to vibrations etc I recently just completed a 17000km road trip with it which included half the great central road and the gibb.
Just did my first mod to 1HD-FTE. Upgraded intercooler to treadstone TRV185 vertical flow. Used stock piping.. just used some reducers as inlet/outlet is 2.5 inch and make a couple of custom brackets under hood latch to adjust. Great buy at just $313 from map performance. I think its good for people looking for something better than the ebay intercoolers but not looking to dish out for crosscountry or safari. Dramatic increase in spool response and is a quality unit!
anyone else with a cross country top mount with the spal puller fan underneath having problems with the fan? mine is killing fans, I presume its the heat over time. I have been doing 16 hr drives and on investigation the spal fan only has an operating temp of 80c so its sucking air a lot hotter than this over itself. I think it would last longer with the fan on top pushing thru
I did plenty of 9+ hour drives and mine was fine. On top may help, but the consensus seems to be that the fan on top obstructs airflow at highway speed.
I agree that on top would obstruct airflow, just trying to keep it working, all I can think of is the heat from being sandwiched between the IC and rocker cover is killing the fan. At the moment the one in there runs ok when the car is cold, but slows right down after half an hr or so of driving
I'm on my third fan. First was pre-spal (cheap copy), I think they had a large number of them fail and then changed to Spal. I sourced my second here, stateside and it failed after a number of months. Don't remember how many, but it was replaced under warranty. The motor shorted on the Spal burning a hole through the case and scarred the valve cover. Third was doing fine until I unplugged it, the wiring connecting to the fan itself needs to be re-done. When I rewire it I'm going set it up so the fan is turned on and off by the level of boost via my boost gauge and a relay.
Just a thought, I would expect the most need for the fan is going to be at low speed and most likely lower boost when the cooler starts to turn into a heater due to little air moving over it. Would it be possible to have the fan activated by cooler outlet air temperature?
I suppose it's possible, just not sure how to accomplish the task. I'm open to ideas if anyone has them. The way it is currently wired is the fan was on when the key was on. I'd set it on to turn on at a relatively low boost level then back off at close to that same lvl. At least this the fan wouldn't run when I'm not pushing any boost. Plus my 80 does have hood vent and I think it help a bit with the under hood temps.
is the wiring to the fan adequate? if the cabling is too light you can potentially get a drop in voltage, and increase in current heating up the cabling. As the copper heats, the resistance in the cabling increases which adds to the voltage drop, increasing current draw, and heat in the cable. vicious cycle.
Maybe try heat shielding the motor and cabling to the fan, and increase the cable size so there's no voltage drop
I just finished doing this today, put in a 40A relay and 50A wire to the fan, with a 25A fuse. I drive back to Perth from Karratha on Friday so it should give it a good test
So I've read through most of this thread, trying to find consensus on what the reliable/quality intercooler kits. And, as I suspected, you crazy guys seem to be all over the map on kits in this thread. I've seen Air to Air kits, Water to Air kits, guys build their own version of each and a lot of ebay purchases thrown in.
So, I'm hoping you guys can help give me some direction. I've got a 1HDT/A442f with a Gturbo and, here in the U.S. it's kind of a rare and expensive setup. I want a quality setup to keep my EGTs down. I'm open to a kit solution or building my own setup from parts. I'm open to Top mount, front mount, air to air and water to air. I just want the setup to be reliable. (I'm not building a race truck but I am pushing more fuel than stock)
Here's what I've found so far....
HDP Top mount: $2000 I'd have to cut a hole in the hood for a scoop (no big deal) but it wouldn't interfere with my trans cooler or radiator flow. (I believe the HPD front mount interferes with the trans cooler to the point where I'd need to move it or custom figure something out)
LANDCRUISER 80 SERIES TOP MOUNT INTERCOOLER KIT - $1,900 : HP Diesel, Performance kits for your 4WD
Safari intercooler: $2500 @Greg_B has an almost identical setup to me and has gotten this setup to work (I think he needed a low profile trans cooler but it still fit it in the stock location) Seems like this kit is quality but expensive and difficult to install for a "kit" solution
Safari Intercooler System
@torfab Water to Air Intercooler: $1500 I talked with our local (U.S.) 1HDT about intercoolers the other day and he mentioned that he is making a water to air kit for the 80 series. I know that Torfab has a reputation for quality (he completed my 1HDT swap and it has worked flawlessly for 15,000 miles) and he knows his stuff. But, I can't find any information on his setup outside of a couple posts on the forum here. From the sound of it, this would be a little more detail oriented install because of the radiator, pump, coolant lines, etc. I'm also concerned that a failure of the intercooler could feed the engine with coolant. Does anyone out there have any experience with this setup?
This guy is very happy with his:
Efscalade - Tinker Thread
1. Are there good options I'm missing?
2. Does anyone have feedback on the setups I've listed?
3. Is there a source for quality component so that building my own setup would be a good option?
Also, can you give me feedback on which setups will hold up to offroad miles and rock crawling? My truck gets used fairly hard and I don't want anything to break!
Share your wisdom and experience!
My $.02, front mount air/air is best, but interferes with things like trans coolers, and winches, if used off-road it could be susceptible to damage and getting filled with mud. Off-road, slow speed use will see very little air pass through, and could cause the engine to run hotter.
Top mount requires cutting the hood, but shouldn't interfere with anything else. If equipped with a fan it should do a better job of cooling at slow speeds/off-road use.
Air/water is the most complicated, with pumps, hoses, heat exchangers, etc that are not needed on the other options. This style has the most potential for failure as a result.
I don't really feel I NEED an IC for where I live and how I use my truck, I can certainly see the benefit if you live where there's hills or mountains. I'm leaning towards a top mount air/air as it would suit my needs best, and work with my OEM winch, and OEM (added) trans cooler.
I've been happy with the Safari FMIC so far, with my only caveat being the ATM cooler. I did go with an aftermarket thin ATF cooler and sandwiched it. In all situations is it fine except on hot summer days on long grades where I can not get TC lockup due to slow vehicles in front and no passing lane. Then my ATF temps climb. This is never a concern on Interstate Highways, just the scenic byways and through mountian passes. As soon as its clear, I have the power to pass and get into TC lockup speed then all is good again. It's not often that this situation occurs, but I will work to eliminate it as a possibility. EGT's are excellent with current tune. I am 10% out with the 315 tires, so that has impact on the signal for TC lockup. Correction of the signal in conjunction with a dual pass tube cooler between the front frame rails is on the agenda. And the path might lead to the GENII. And/or regigging the front and putting the ATF cooler in front. Wholesale also has an electronic box which takes over from the factory signals, giving TC lockup in all gears if I have read the info correctly. I assume it unlocks for gear changes then locks in again but the write-up on their website does not explicitly say that. GENII Torque Converter Lockup Control Kit to suit Toyota LandCruiser 80 Series 4 Speed - Wholesale Automatic Transmissions
@Lumpskie With your hydraulic A442F I would suggest to keep the ATF cooler primary and out in front of everything if you go front mount. There is only one kit that I know of that provides a FMIC as a kit, including an ATF cooler. I have no direct experience with it but know of one in North America, but not installed yet. Landcruiser 80 Series Front Mount intercooler
That PDI kit looks interesting, I'd never heard of it before! I wonder if it would clear the OEM winch...it looks like it would be cutting it close.