The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Hi,I have one. Material is too soft. I guess it's "just" stainless steel. I upgraded to a KOC one out of Japan which is made out of better material and the profile is a tad bit wilder
I should have a picture somewhere of the stock, euro4x4 and KOC pin.
Is yours a Adonis? From pictures they look a like.
In mine I'm using this one VASTAGO LDA BOMBA INYECTORA
The material looks and feels like it has been hardened, what make me believe I'll be fine regarding boost pin wear. Anyway in a few more kms I'll look at it to find if it handles the job.
Driving wize it's pulling stronger, temps seem to be pretty OK and has a lot more top end. I also installed thrundle's boost cap.
Cheers
Hey guys, I thought I would update my findings...after monitoring my fuel consumption, I am happy to report that I achieved the best tank yield for as long as I have had my swap, 24.3 USMPG. Main + Sub tank yielded roughly 780 miles and 32 gallons on fillup. Since adding more fuel and timing the pump with the Factory tool (Thank you Ross!), my EGT's have gone down and stayed lower and my fuel mileage has gone up from 21.5 on average to 23. I drive 70MPH and do not drive it like I stole it which I am sure helps.
I am taking my wife up I-70 into the mountains for a hike and a picnic tomorrow so will update on how the EGT's get at elevation. I am very happy overall.
Happy 4th of July everyone. Be safe.
Link is not active.
To make this thread more usable, it would be good to remove ineffective links.
Very best will be a fixed summary of results. Possibly updated by the idea owner: ForealBoreal.
If I have the ability to read the many pages (63), my plan is to look for what I can do to get the `mine´ ve pump built.
I have three ideas that I have not seen discussed.
The pump (350 - 450 hp) will be used for this project: Log into Facebook | Facebook
Last edited:
I'd unlikely that 63 pages with numerous contributors is going to get updated links.
Post up your ideas, someone will comment.
As above, the DENSO VE pump is a licensed copy of the Bosch VE
Anything written about tuning Cummins, or VW TDIs with the Bosch style pump is going to be relevant up to a point
Post up your ideas, someone will comment.
As above, the DENSO VE pump is a licensed copy of the Bosch VE
Anything written about tuning Cummins, or VW TDIs with the Bosch style pump is going to be relevant up to a point
You are completely right. That the chance of links etc being updated is almost infinitely small.
Bosch has licensed several companies to build these pumps.
The thread also starts in 2009 so much is probably out of date.
Therefore, it would be nice to have a fixed summary.
Maybe I'll just read the thread from behind!
OK.
- I want to know about experience with 14 mm pump piston.
- How much feed pressure Ve type pumps can withstand and still function optimally.
- What temperature of the diesel is optimal.
- Is there any who have tried with variable max quantity control while driving?
- Can there be advantages in a thicker shaft for the turbo regulator?
- How high nozzle pressure will the pump tolerate and what happens?
The target is 350 - 450 hp - 50 to + 50 degrees c full functional ability.
I can probably continue if I had been fresher than I am right now.
These are ideas without my background to the think I show here.
At the same time, I want stability. Since the car must be able to work under extreme conditions and for long periods (30,000 km on a trip).
I press the opportunities to learn and thus have the opportunity to choose.
The project can be seen here: Log into Facebook | Facebook
Bosch has licensed several companies to build these pumps.
The thread also starts in 2009 so much is probably out of date.
Therefore, it would be nice to have a fixed summary.
Maybe I'll just read the thread from behind!
OK.
- I want to know about experience with 14 mm pump piston.
- How much feed pressure Ve type pumps can withstand and still function optimally.
- What temperature of the diesel is optimal.
- Is there any who have tried with variable max quantity control while driving?
- Can there be advantages in a thicker shaft for the turbo regulator?
- How high nozzle pressure will the pump tolerate and what happens?
The target is 350 - 450 hp - 50 to + 50 degrees c full functional ability.
I can probably continue if I had been fresher than I am right now.
These are ideas without my background to the think I show here.
At the same time, I want stability. Since the car must be able to work under extreme conditions and for long periods (30,000 km on a trip).
I press the opportunities to learn and thus have the opportunity to choose.
The project can be seen here: Log into Facebook | Facebook
Last edited:
AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 61
- Messages
- 2,628
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
Not positive - maybe I didn't try hard enough but I tried with a Yanmar 6LPA pump which is either 13 or 14mm (memory fade) - the problem is making it work in an automotive type application. I ended up going with a worked 12mm pump and this supplied plenty of fuel for my objective.
That's called your right foot
Assuming you are talking about the aneroid rod in the boost compensator?
It's theoretically possible to swap parts from a Bosch pump to increase the diameter of the aneroid rod.
This gives more options for grinding and customising the ramp rate on the aneroid rod.
Of course you are right. BUT
Since idling changes with the max screw, it may be that there will be advantages in having two adjustments.
The second is that I do not need 450 hp constantly. It will only be in special cases such as sand dunes, fully loaded. And there it must be at max rpm.
As it is now, the car's total weight is 5.7 tons. But I have applied the axle manufacturer, Volvo, to raise the total weight as much as possible up to 7.5 tonnes.
Yes. Anna root is the word.
Excuse my computer English.
What are the parts you are talking about that may be used ?
Daly driver:
Since idling changes with the max screw, it may be that there will be advantages in having two adjustments.
The second is that I do not need 450 hp constantly. It will only be in special cases such as sand dunes, fully loaded. And there it must be at max rpm.
As it is now, the car's total weight is 5.7 tons. But I have applied the axle manufacturer, Volvo, to raise the total weight as much as possible up to 7.5 tonnes.
Yes. Anna root is the word.
Excuse my computer English.
What are the parts you are talking about that may be used ?
Daly driver:
I thought I'd offer up a recent experience with this. Rebuilt pump (the shop re-installed it and timed as per the FSM), 3" turbo-back LegendX exhaust, PDI intercooler, good injectors, doesn't burn oil, catch canned HDJ81 with 277km on the clock. I've turned the smoke screw down to the minimum off-boost fuel, aneroid pin diaphragm was rotated to less fuel. It smoked at idle and pissed off everyone around me in traffic.
I have read this thread religiously as my girlfriend gets headaches from the exhaust while we're idling in traffic.
Coming back from a bike race in Quincy, I stopped by a friend Brian's place in Truckee and we "re-timed" my IP. I always thought this was a very precise setting, requiring a Denso gauge to set the timing per the FSM. Nope. In this case, it was not exact. We didn't follow the procedure, didn't set TDC, it was much simpler.
The injection pump was set with the mark on the timing case and pump being aligned. Assuming this is factory? We just loosed the three bolts and rotated the pump towards the engine approx 1mm (admittedly I pushed it as far as it would go) and tightened everything back down. Then we added a boost controller and pushed the CT26 to 14psi from 10psi.
I then rotated the aneroid diaphragm to the factory setting and rotated the fuel screw back to factory. I left the smoke screw at minimum.
The Cruiser drives like a freaking race truck now - Brian called it a slow dog before. I don't have to downshift to 3rd (1990 A442F hydro trans) when going up hills. The smoke is non-existent at idle once warmed. It puffs a tiny bit of smoke at startup. Idle speed is all adjusted now (975 RPM when in N or P) and when parked, it doesn't smoke anymore. If I jam on the skinny pedal, it'll lightly puff but that's it. I got 22MPG coming back from Truckee. For an armored, lifted truck on 35" with a GFC RTT, that's damn good.
My post-turbo EGT would get up to 1000º going up the Grapevine or the climb on the 15 out of the Mojave. Now it didn't get higher than 700º going up the climb out of Bishop on the 395. That climb was always scary.
Not sure how many people have tried advancing their IP, but holy crap, I wish I had done this before. Thanks, Brian (if you see this)
I have read this thread religiously as my girlfriend gets headaches from the exhaust while we're idling in traffic.
Coming back from a bike race in Quincy, I stopped by a friend Brian's place in Truckee and we "re-timed" my IP. I always thought this was a very precise setting, requiring a Denso gauge to set the timing per the FSM. Nope. In this case, it was not exact. We didn't follow the procedure, didn't set TDC, it was much simpler.
The injection pump was set with the mark on the timing case and pump being aligned. Assuming this is factory? We just loosed the three bolts and rotated the pump towards the engine approx 1mm (admittedly I pushed it as far as it would go) and tightened everything back down. Then we added a boost controller and pushed the CT26 to 14psi from 10psi.
I then rotated the aneroid diaphragm to the factory setting and rotated the fuel screw back to factory. I left the smoke screw at minimum.
The Cruiser drives like a freaking race truck now - Brian called it a slow dog before. I don't have to downshift to 3rd (1990 A442F hydro trans) when going up hills. The smoke is non-existent at idle once warmed. It puffs a tiny bit of smoke at startup. Idle speed is all adjusted now (975 RPM when in N or P) and when parked, it doesn't smoke anymore. If I jam on the skinny pedal, it'll lightly puff but that's it. I got 22MPG coming back from Truckee. For an armored, lifted truck on 35" with a GFC RTT, that's damn good.
My post-turbo EGT would get up to 1000º going up the Grapevine or the climb on the 15 out of the Mojave. Now it didn't get higher than 700º going up the climb out of Bishop on the 395. That climb was always scary.
Not sure how many people have tried advancing their IP, but holy crap, I wish I had done this before. Thanks, Brian (if you see this)
Last edited:
I goes a lot further than 1mm past thoses factory marks! Some have even grinded some metal away from the intake manifold and/or boost comp housing to go even further lol. Makes it painful to remove and adjust the aneroid pin though with the reduced clearances.
Doing it all "correctly" with the dial indicator only get you in the rough area anyways, all setups will need slightly different static timing to get optimal performance to suit their needs. Can end in tears if done wrong but is a crucial part of tuning.
For sure. I didn't think I'd be able to get the boost compensator top off but there's just enough room to sneak a ball head allen wrench in there.
This actually reminded me to pull out my pin and regrind it to suit not having a cooler anymore, I'd been lazy and just turned down the fuel screw which reduced my fueling down low too much. Much nicer in power delivery now AFR's stay pretty much stable all the way to redline. On a side note since removing the cooler my exhaust smoke has decreased even with the lower AFR it was running which was unexpected.
So I finished reading this entire thread and im about to dive into some tuning, this thing has been painfully slow since I got it. But before I even opened up my compensator I decided to check out my kickdown cable and wow I already feel accomplished.
I havent put many miles on this thing since I got it but figured it was mostly a boost/fuel issue that made this thing feel dangerous. Hard to get on the highway, felt like it was falling flat on its face and it turns out some of the issues was because it wasnt downshifting properly/cable slack
To all the new guys who are picking these hdj81s up stateside, I suggest you really do look at the basics first before you start playing with the pin and fuel
I havent put many miles on this thing since I got it but figured it was mostly a boost/fuel issue that made this thing feel dangerous. Hard to get on the highway, felt like it was falling flat on its face and it turns out some of the issues was because it wasnt downshifting properly/cable slack
To all the new guys who are picking these hdj81s up stateside, I suggest you really do look at the basics first before you start playing with the pin and fuel
Last edited:
You adjusted the throttle cable, or the transmission kickdown cable? The kickdown cable can make a HUGE difference in the way these trucks drive!
From what I gathered in here:
The goal is to have the main fuel screw as close to stock/unmoved as possible, I also feel like having the smoke screw/cam on max is a good place to start. Those are the two variables you should mostly keep the same.
From there you adjust the starwheel and pin/rod, these should be the variables that change for the tuning.
When I first got the car I had a good amount of white smoke at startup, but my ACSD was leaking pretty bad, once removed the car has smelled great and I havent seen any smoke. Today I noticed the hand throttle was giving it some RPMs, just 100rpms or so, it had my idle at 1000, once I caught it its now at 850-900 with it off. I noticed my next startup since "reducing my idle" the car was pretty smokey? Which doesnt make sense to me, and I need someone to tell me its in my head and it was just condensation due to the weather changing. (This has all been in the span of 30miles or so, trying to get this car baselined before really driving it)
The goal is to have the main fuel screw as close to stock/unmoved as possible, I also feel like having the smoke screw/cam on max is a good place to start. Those are the two variables you should mostly keep the same.
From there you adjust the starwheel and pin/rod, these should be the variables that change for the tuning.
When I first got the car I had a good amount of white smoke at startup, but my ACSD was leaking pretty bad, once removed the car has smelled great and I havent seen any smoke. Today I noticed the hand throttle was giving it some RPMs, just 100rpms or so, it had my idle at 1000, once I caught it its now at 850-900 with it off. I noticed my next startup since "reducing my idle" the car was pretty smokey? Which doesnt make sense to me, and I need someone to tell me its in my head and it was just condensation due to the weather changing. (This has all been in the span of 30miles or so, trying to get this car baselined before really driving it)
Kickdown cable mate, I think its because of you that I looked at it in the first place because of the improvement you mentioned. Ill edit my original post with the correct term so as to not confuse anyone
ACSD is next on my list. 970-ish for an AT is correct idle speed. Does the smoke linger after the engine is warmed up? My thought with the idle speed higher is you're burning the excess fuel that is causing the idle smoke at lower idles. When mine was bad, I'd shift it into N or P at stoplights to get the smoke/haze to reduce so the neighboring people idling around me weren't getting smoked out. Or it's blowby. Have you looked inside the valve body at idle - take the oil cap off - to see if there's bad blowby?
Another thing that helped with my 1HDT was a 1mm advance of the IP. It made a huge difference in EGT and smoke. It's a really simple procedure, pending your hand dexterity and access to the special wrench required to get to one of the bolts. There's nothing exact about it. You just loosen the IP's bolts (one big main bolt holding it to the engine's flange, and two small ones holding it to the timing case) and rotate the pump towards the engine. There's a tick mark on the timing case and on the IP on the side, facing the fender. +/- 1mm makes a big difference.
Could also be the weather, or if your area uses a winterized diesel mixture. In general, even after rebuilds and new injectors and all the extra stuff you could do to eliminate smoke, these engines (and the 1HDFT) are smokey, especially before warm up.
No blowby(at least using the old upside down oilcap trick) will eventually get a compression test. Vehicle only has 120k miles on it, I wont get too carried away about the smoke, like I said it has been completely gone since I removed the ACSD, we dropped like 20degrees over the past day so it could just be some condensation. Ill give it a few more start ups until I get worried.
Good to know that advancing the timing isnt the trickiest thing in the world
If the smoke does continue at startup(it goes away pretty quickly) Ill test turning the fuel screw like 1/8 since white smoke tends to mean under fueled
Last edited:
