The new acquisition... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter stevezero
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Some 40s and a sawzall would be hot.... just Sayin'
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
I have parts building a pile....I need to start getting everything together!
- Thread starter
- #65
Well, its been a while, so here's an update:
Ive been driving the truck off and on, and short drives are no problem. Longer drives were intermittently causing temps to spike to the point of pushing coolant out the overflow.
So, here goes the attempt to stave off digging into the motor. Ive been systematically working on the cooling system, and each time it gets better, but the problem still persists.
Round 1: Coolant flush/block flush/radiator flush, new tstat, hoses, fan clutch, general cleaning of the radiator (packed with mud, believe it was listed above). Did almost all of the small hoses at that time too. Still have the small hose going to the front heater core under the wiring harness.
Round 2: Another coolant flush, and CLR in the heater cores after separating them from the system. Swapped in another OEM tstat and radiator cap. Made sure jiggle valve was at 12 o clock. Drove around, burped with burping funnel, drove around some more, temps never climbed above 193 at any speed or throttle. Heat was great in both cores. @fj40z came to my office and we used a hydrocarbon tester multiple times on it, at temps around 183 or so, and no color change in the tester. We both felt that the HG is still in good shape. Not sure if the tstat needed to be opened up fully at 190 or so before the hydrocarbons would appear in the system.
Problem reappeared on Sunday driving to costco....GRRRRRRR!!! Guess it decided it needed to mark some territory. Limped home with temps teetering between 199 and 214 for short bursts. Intermittent heat in the cores (slowing to a stop, and idle, temps would drop, and rise under load)
Phase 3: New Aisin water pump, new Denso radiator enroute to swap in this week. I'll go ahead and install the new heater control valve up top, the firewall core hose, and the smaller bypass hoses from the rad to the intake,and around the waterpump/tstat area. Hopefully this will seal the deal, and resolve the overheating without having to do a head gasket.
Ive been driving the truck off and on, and short drives are no problem. Longer drives were intermittently causing temps to spike to the point of pushing coolant out the overflow.
So, here goes the attempt to stave off digging into the motor. Ive been systematically working on the cooling system, and each time it gets better, but the problem still persists.
Round 1: Coolant flush/block flush/radiator flush, new tstat, hoses, fan clutch, general cleaning of the radiator (packed with mud, believe it was listed above). Did almost all of the small hoses at that time too. Still have the small hose going to the front heater core under the wiring harness.
Round 2: Another coolant flush, and CLR in the heater cores after separating them from the system. Swapped in another OEM tstat and radiator cap. Made sure jiggle valve was at 12 o clock. Drove around, burped with burping funnel, drove around some more, temps never climbed above 193 at any speed or throttle. Heat was great in both cores. @fj40z came to my office and we used a hydrocarbon tester multiple times on it, at temps around 183 or so, and no color change in the tester. We both felt that the HG is still in good shape. Not sure if the tstat needed to be opened up fully at 190 or so before the hydrocarbons would appear in the system.
Problem reappeared on Sunday driving to costco....GRRRRRRR!!! Guess it decided it needed to mark some territory. Limped home with temps teetering between 199 and 214 for short bursts. Intermittent heat in the cores (slowing to a stop, and idle, temps would drop, and rise under load)
Phase 3: New Aisin water pump, new Denso radiator enroute to swap in this week. I'll go ahead and install the new heater control valve up top, the firewall core hose, and the smaller bypass hoses from the rad to the intake,and around the waterpump/tstat area. Hopefully this will seal the deal, and resolve the overheating without having to do a head gasket.
So if it is passing the HC test, an oil test from like Blackstone or wherever wouldn't prolly tell you anything?
- Thread starter
- #67
I was able to get the tires mounted that @tgadd sent up via Mudship. They are awesome and have a nice smooth ride. I'll get pics soon. Thanks again, Tgadd.
I've done some little things here n there between updates. Swapped my rear interior plastics from my 450, so I keep my aux power panel in the rear, and removed most of my dual battery components from the 450 as well. Some will get reused, some may not.
Saturday was originally going to be cooling system overhaul day, but parts havent arrived, so I went a different direction.
It became Operation Poverty Pack Day.....aka Roof Rack Delete.
All of my roof rack screws had a little bit of rust and resistance coming out, but only one required excessive measures. I ended up drilling the head off, lifting the rack off, and using vise grips, was able to remove it. I had a little bit of surface rust from the rack pads, and a couple of the nutserts had some surface rust. I removed the strips, two screws per strip, slid the top piece off, and used some 40 lb test braided fishing line to remove the glued down base piece. I bought a 3m trim adhesive removal wheel (big honkin eraser), and spent about 10-15 minutes per strip removing the remaining adhesive. Went thru two batteries on my cordless drill. Was expensive at @43.00, but It should last quite a while. @fj40z, you can borrow it when youre ready to do yours. Its a serious upper body workout, a lot more than you think it works ya. LOL
I did a bunch of prep work to remove the rust, and dabbed on some primer. For the holes, I filed down the nutserts, and used some aluminum/butyl tape, cut into circles to cover the holes. I masked off the area around the holes and pads, and instead of using herculiner like i did on the 450, I used the same duplicolor smooth bedliner spray. I tried to beat the rain, and in the process of trying to cover the painted areas, the tarp made contact and lifted it some. I'll go back and fix that after it cures. If I dont like it, I'll sand that down and either use herculiner or just fill the holes and prime and paint.
No pics cause i was cramming to beat the rain.
Tonight after work, I swapped washer bottles and mounts between the 450 and the lc. It was easier to swap the bottles than it would have been to unbolt all the relocation brackets individually. I had to splice in a small piece of wiring harness to extend the connector.
I also put a set of military spec battery terminals on the 450, and will install another set on the white lc. It got dark, and I had to walk dogs, so work was completed for the night.
I've done some little things here n there between updates. Swapped my rear interior plastics from my 450, so I keep my aux power panel in the rear, and removed most of my dual battery components from the 450 as well. Some will get reused, some may not.
Saturday was originally going to be cooling system overhaul day, but parts havent arrived, so I went a different direction.
It became Operation Poverty Pack Day.....aka Roof Rack Delete.
All of my roof rack screws had a little bit of rust and resistance coming out, but only one required excessive measures. I ended up drilling the head off, lifting the rack off, and using vise grips, was able to remove it. I had a little bit of surface rust from the rack pads, and a couple of the nutserts had some surface rust. I removed the strips, two screws per strip, slid the top piece off, and used some 40 lb test braided fishing line to remove the glued down base piece. I bought a 3m trim adhesive removal wheel (big honkin eraser), and spent about 10-15 minutes per strip removing the remaining adhesive. Went thru two batteries on my cordless drill. Was expensive at @43.00, but It should last quite a while. @fj40z, you can borrow it when youre ready to do yours. Its a serious upper body workout, a lot more than you think it works ya. LOL
I did a bunch of prep work to remove the rust, and dabbed on some primer. For the holes, I filed down the nutserts, and used some aluminum/butyl tape, cut into circles to cover the holes. I masked off the area around the holes and pads, and instead of using herculiner like i did on the 450, I used the same duplicolor smooth bedliner spray. I tried to beat the rain, and in the process of trying to cover the painted areas, the tarp made contact and lifted it some. I'll go back and fix that after it cures. If I dont like it, I'll sand that down and either use herculiner or just fill the holes and prime and paint.
No pics cause i was cramming to beat the rain.
Tonight after work, I swapped washer bottles and mounts between the 450 and the lc. It was easier to swap the bottles than it would have been to unbolt all the relocation brackets individually. I had to splice in a small piece of wiring harness to extend the connector.
I also put a set of military spec battery terminals on the 450, and will install another set on the white lc. It got dark, and I had to walk dogs, so work was completed for the night.
- Thread starter
- #68
I'm not sure, the oil has less than 1000 miles on it, so I dont know what it may show. I dont see snot under the oil cap, and I dont see any frothiness on the dipstick.
If the issue still persists, I'll pull a sample and send it to Blackstone.
Steve, of all the items you mention the intermittent heat at the heater core is the most concerning. If the head gasket is blowing gasses into the coolant that can reveal itself both by overflowing your coolant bottle and a lack of heat. The nice news is a bad water pump will cause the exact same thing. And since your HC test on the coolant came back negative it sounds like you may have this issue licked.
- Thread starter
- #70
I'm hoping so, Rice. I'm wanting to see worn down blades on the water pump. LOL.
If not, I'll join the Paranoid HG Replacement Society. I hear its an ever growing group, almost growing as fast as people who buy way too much TJM stuff from Summit Performance
My plan for the weekend, weather permitting:
Pull fan clutch and hub, belts.
Bump the starter to knock the crank bolt loose. Yank battery and tray.
Drain and pull rad.
Remove harmonic balancer, replace front crank seal.
Replace oil pump cover gasket.
Torque crank bolt.
Replace alternator idler pulley
Replace heater control valve and last firewall hose, and bypass hoses.
Replace water pump.
Replace AC clutch bearing (should be the last thing on the priority list.)
Button everything back up. Throw chicken bones, chant, etc., and start up and monitor temps while burping the cooling system.
I'm hoping so, Rice. I'm wanting to see worn down blades on the water pump. LOL.
If not, I'll join the Paranoid HG Replacement Society. I hear its an ever growing group, almost growing as fast as people who buy way too much TJM stuff from Summit Performance
My plan for the weekend, weather permitting:
Pull fan clutch and hub, belts.
Bump the starter to knock the crank bolt loose. Yank battery and tray.
Drain and pull rad.
Remove harmonic balancer, replace front crank seal.
Replace oil pump cover gasket.
Torque crank bolt.
Replace alternator idler pulley
Replace heater control valve and last firewall hose, and bypass hoses.
Replace water pump.
Replace AC clutch bearing (should be the last thing on the priority list.)
Button everything back up. Throw chicken bones, chant, etc., and start up and monitor temps while burping the cooling system.
48" Torque wrench available if you want it. I have a science competition Saturday so will be MIA all day ... sorry, no help to you.
- Thread starter
- #73
One more item I did was to put down some of the thick foil/butyl insulation in the rear quarters, and on the cargo floor area. Not trying to go for total quiet, just want to add a little insulation and get rid of some resonating noises.
- Thread starter
- #74
Time for another update from a couple weeks ago:
Did a 3 day weekend of binge working on the LC, including:
Aisin Water pump (old wp was rough feeling turning by hand)
Front Crank seal
Oil pump cover gasket and screws (two of the screws were an absolute beeeeeyotch to get out, fought with those for almost 90 mins)
Alt belt tensioner pulley
Denso radiator (had to reindex one of the tranny cooler ports to prevent a kink/leak on the soft hose)
AC Clutch bearing
Prepped/Painted water pump pulley
Additional block flush and heater core flush
Oil/Filter. Some moron must have used a 1/2 inch impact to tighten the filter. Had to move power steering reservoir to get at it with a clamping filter wrench. Oul that came out had about 1000 miles on it, No visible water in it,
Burped the system for 60 mins, front end elevated, normal temps at various RPM's up to 3500. Front and rear heater cores were blazing hot. Drove it, and once the engine got under load and the tstat opened, temps shot up, and again, pushing coolant out the overflow. Limped home again (was only a couple miles away). Needless to say, I was more than just a wee bit peeved. I think the neighbors might have learned some new phrases while i was sitting in the driveway consuming a 22 oz tumbler full of sprite and 90 proof vodka.
OEM Valve grind (HG) kit and fuel filter arrived last friday. I'll pull the tstat once more, and test it to see what temp it opens. Maybe I'll get lucky, and it will be sticking shut until 200 or so. (a guy can dream)
Been working on the garage to clear out space to pull the truck in for the impending HG job. If the head does have to come off, I'll do all the usual "while youre in there jobs": pressure test, hot tanking, valve stem seals, fuel injectors serviced, fuel filter, hot tank the intake halves, misc gaskets, seals, doodads, and the heater hose feeding the heater cores behind the head. Some paintwork (since @Rice and @fj40z set the bar high on making them pretty). And maybe pick up some of @NLXTACY 's neat EGR Keychains for my appropriate model
Do they sell the #0 vacuum hose by the roll?
Did a 3 day weekend of binge working on the LC, including:
Aisin Water pump (old wp was rough feeling turning by hand)
Front Crank seal
Oil pump cover gasket and screws (two of the screws were an absolute beeeeeyotch to get out, fought with those for almost 90 mins)
Alt belt tensioner pulley
Denso radiator (had to reindex one of the tranny cooler ports to prevent a kink/leak on the soft hose)
AC Clutch bearing
Prepped/Painted water pump pulley
Additional block flush and heater core flush
Oil/Filter. Some moron must have used a 1/2 inch impact to tighten the filter. Had to move power steering reservoir to get at it with a clamping filter wrench. Oul that came out had about 1000 miles on it, No visible water in it,
Burped the system for 60 mins, front end elevated, normal temps at various RPM's up to 3500. Front and rear heater cores were blazing hot. Drove it, and once the engine got under load and the tstat opened, temps shot up, and again, pushing coolant out the overflow. Limped home again (was only a couple miles away). Needless to say, I was more than just a wee bit peeved. I think the neighbors might have learned some new phrases while i was sitting in the driveway consuming a 22 oz tumbler full of sprite and 90 proof vodka.
OEM Valve grind (HG) kit and fuel filter arrived last friday. I'll pull the tstat once more, and test it to see what temp it opens. Maybe I'll get lucky, and it will be sticking shut until 200 or so. (a guy can dream)
Been working on the garage to clear out space to pull the truck in for the impending HG job. If the head does have to come off, I'll do all the usual "while youre in there jobs": pressure test, hot tanking, valve stem seals, fuel injectors serviced, fuel filter, hot tank the intake halves, misc gaskets, seals, doodads, and the heater hose feeding the heater cores behind the head. Some paintwork (since @Rice and @fj40z set the bar high on making them pretty). And maybe pick up some of @NLXTACY 's neat EGR Keychains for my appropriate model
Do they sell the #0 vacuum hose by the roll?
Get some Silicone hose by the foot?
This is sad. Those times when we wish against all odds it just ain't so. There is certainly no lack of effort on your part in considering every other possible cause. Nice job.
Here are a couple random thoughts ....
1. Because your symptoms could just as easily point to a cracked head vs HG you may wish to find a second complete head, get it machined, and then bolt it on. (I still have "ticky" so we can talk offline about whether or not you would like to use it)
2. The TTY head bolts are supposed to be replaced which @fj40z can tell you is $$$. Using ARP studs is cheaper by about 50%.
3. I don't know how you're set up for big jobs at your house, but if you get a second head machined you're welcome to bring your ride over to the Strange house and we'll make a long, long, long day of it. Jason @jfz80 might help provided he gets a written agreement it does not involve feeding that F*&%#@! loom up through the intake manifold.
BTW ... not easy to find #0 (3.5 mm) vacuum hose, however NAPA did have an SAE size that slid right on. FYI I used 10 feet redoing my intake and the 95+ engines use a little less hose than my 94.
New motto? "We are a drinking club with a head gasket problem"
Peace man.
Last edited:
I will also throw this out there. When you have the head work done try to find a shop that can pressure test it warmed up. I don't even know if this is possible but as several of you know I am still loosing coolant. Last week I had a guy with 25 years of Toyota wrenching experience check out the work we did to see if I missed anything and he said it all looks great. His opinion is that my head is cracked, and is only allowing the coolant to leak when the engine is hot and the crack expands. When a machine shop pressure tests a head it is done on a room temperature head which may not show a small crack that only leaks with heat expansion. Really kinda scary when you think about.
This makes me smile. Almost to the point where I want to set up another mud account so I can like it twice. There should be a run of ONSC shirts with this.
@stevezero hang in there. I've been there. When you get it finished though, that feeling...
- Thread starter
- #79
I totally agree with that tshirt idea. That would be awesome. Specially an already oil/grease stained, blood stained tshirt with cyring tear stains on the sleeves.
I'm fine with the HG being bad. Everything I've done on the engine so far would all be done on it anyway, regardless of the HG being good or bad. For what I have into the truck, it's still a bargain (PO's mechanic felt it had a bad HG, so I negotiated accordingly). I'm hoping the issue is in the top end, and not in the block, but if that turns out to be the case, there are more expensive (and much more fun and powerful solutions for that)
