Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

If your going to protect the circuits with same rating and quality of fuse in your fuse box then go for it. A fuse is a fuse. Electricity doesn't care whether it was the exact one that was supplied or not, so long as it does the same job
This is my thinking as well. The only difference is the fusible links are a little bigger because they support multiple circuits out of the relay box. The smaller fuse out of the fuse box for each circuit would be matched.
 
I have been getting lots of little things done such aa integrating the Vintage Air harness into the 80 harness, mounting the VA ecu, painted the seat frame and mounts. The most time consuming was building the cradle to hold the Dakota Digital ecu behind the cluster. It is made out of stainless steel except for the capture nuts I spot welded on. It has been test fit and everything clears just needs paint.
616E46BA-6336-4DA4-968F-62AC0FF4326A.webp


CC244855-AB04-4AB5-96C1-B23BE5D8DED4.webp
 
The wiring seems to never end and sometimes I make it harder on myself. I opted not to use the Harrop provided relay box and breaker it came with. I am sure the system they developed works fine but it looks out of place under the hood and takes up more room. Harrops set up.
6261D325-9B97-411D-A504-C2EEFEFE4DB0.webp

I am using a 30 amp dual relay box off of a gx470 to replace the clear relay boxes.

F174FBFA-BBB2-4E2E-97D8-0BD57E9CBDFF.webp

I eliminated the breakers that came with the Harrop harnes and am choosing to rely on the fusible link already in place. I will use two empty fuses in the engine bay relay box to run 12v to the relay.

Relay boxes are all wired up.
8BB4BEE8-F260-4C6B-86D5-E5634BDB02E4.webp
 
I need to buy a crimper to make my ac lines. I see tools with a wide range in price. Anyone have any experience or suggestions for what I should buy?
 
I need to buy a crimper to make my ac lines. I see tools with a wide range in price. Anyone have any experience or suggestions for what I should buy?
Best I can tell, the ones in the $120-$200 range are all basically the same. I have made several sets with the pictured tool with no complaints. It was a different brand and about $150. Nearing 100k mi on one set of lines I crimped.

5D11B816-2931-49D3-8F6D-F33D082FC9F0.webp
 
Last edited:
Best I can tell, the ones in the $120-$200 range are all basically the same. I have made several sets with the pictured tool with no complaints. It was a different brand and about $150. Nearing 100k mi on one set of lines I crimped.

View attachment 3320488
Thanks for the response. After looking at a bunch of them that seemed to be made by the same company supporting multiple brand names I bought one of cheaper options but not the cheapest.
 
I have been getting lots of little things done such aa integrating the Vintage Air harness into the 80 harness, mounting the VA ecu, painted the seat frame and mounts. The most time consuming was building the cradle to hold the Dakota Digital ecu behind the cluster. It is made out of stainless steel except for the capture nuts I spot welded on. It has been test fit and everything clears just needs paint.
View attachment 3316605

View attachment 3316606
Love your cradle for your Dakota Digital ECU. Brilliant design and well executed!
 
If there is a parker hose near you, vintage air stuff is parker I believe. Cut to length and mark rotations, probably the best crimp you can get.
 
If there is a parker hose near you, vintage air stuff is parker I believe. Cut to length and mark rotations, probably the best crimp you can get.
Thanks for the tip. I googled the closest store to me which is in El Paso TX. Too far away for me but to know for possible future needs.
 
Best I can tell, the ones in the $120-$200 range are all basically the same. I have made several sets with the pictured tool with no complaints. It was a different brand and about $150. Nearing 100k mi on one set of lines I crimped.

View attachment 3320488

The Vintage Air crimper is made by Mastercool and can be found about $70 cheaper. I use the Mastercool and it works great. Can't speak to the many knockoffs that are in the $120 range
 
The Vintage Air crimper is made by Mastercool and can be found about $70 cheaper. I use the Mastercool and it works great. Can't speak to the many knockoffs that are in the $120 range
I looked and that’s what mine is.

48930712-7D8B-449C-8CC3-6DA200B8BBE1.webp
 
I am ready to install my windshield. I am using a cut to fit gasket I got from SOR. I have been trying to figure out what adhesive I should use to seal the seem. My searches have not turned up a definite answer. I bout the 3m adhesive pictured but I am not sure it is what I should use.
IMG_6350.webp

Can anyone confirm what I have will work or is there a better specialized product for sealing the windshield gasket joint?
 
@POTATO LAUNCHER in his past life did more than 1000 installs. Pinging him.
 
You will want to overlap the parallel cut at the bottom of the windshield center about 3/4"-1". This allows the stretch in the corners to occur without creating a gap once the glass is in place. Then a minimal amount of urethane can be smeared in the seam. What you have will suffice.
 
You will want to overlap the parallel cut at the bottom of the windshield center about 3/4"-1". This allows the stretch in the corners to occur without creating a gap once the glass is in place. Then a minimal amount of urethane can be smeared in the seam. What you have will suffice.
Awesome!! I appreciate all the advice. This will be the first windshield I’ve installed, so I will take all the help I can get.
 
The dash harness is done. I am sure I have way more hours in to this than the average person. I will hurt if I have to open it back up. I feel good about it.

I just need to trim the loose wires to fit the gauge cluster. Fingers crossed, I should be driving this thing soon!
IMG_6399.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom